Uni -Chip Owners Only Discussion Thread......

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Old 07-20-2004, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by seattle dale
wonder why josh told me specifically it was hp @ the wheel? huuuuhhh. 219 that not that great is it?
Depends on your mods...
Old 07-20-2004, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by blader
Did he say WHEEL or WHEELS?

He probably said WHEEL, in which case, he means the flyWHEEL aka crank HP

Dude, guys with the supercharger don't make 285 to the wheels with an auto. Its just not possible. 219 is right around where everyone else is though.
so what does bph mean? brake h.p. right.
Old 07-20-2004, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonesi
Depends on your mods...
headers & k&n filter + the unichip, thats it
Old 07-20-2004, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by seattle dale
headers & k&n filter + the unichip, thats it

With I/H/E/UniChip I make 8 more wheel horsepower than you given you are at 219. Seems about right to me
Old 07-20-2004, 07:16 PM
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http://www.acurainspired.com/gallery...1337&pid=29792 heres one of the dyno sheets again, notice it says BPH 285. bph is at the wheels right?
Old 07-20-2004, 07:52 PM
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I was a little confused about the definition of brake horsepower so I did a search on the web, this is what I came up with:

"A measurement of the actual usable power (not calculated power) measured at the output shaft (usually the crankshaft) rather than at the driveshaft or the wheels. Thus none of the auxiliaries (gearbox, generator, alternator, differential, water pump, etc.) are attached. It is called the brake horsepower because the shaft power is usually measured by an absorption dynamometer or "brake." This is not the brake on the vehicle's wheels but a testing device applied to the shaft. This instrument is applied to stop or absorb the rotation of the output shaft and returns a value. "

"Brake horsepower. A measurement standard used by manufacturers to help consumers compare engines. NOTE: BHP is measured at the maximum operating RPM of the engine, which may not be the RPM level at which your engine will provide maximum life and consistent performance."
Old 07-20-2004, 08:06 PM
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thanks blader, that clears it up. i'm obviously confused. so my hp is 219, what is my torque dyno said 217.5
Old 07-21-2004, 12:22 AM
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Jack and Tony has know about my cooling mods and I explained to them about the stock ecu pulling timing above 200 degrees. I told them when we started this group buy. Anyways...I shipped back one of the kits today w/ a letter explaining on what kind of map I would like. They are gonna send me ANOTHER FULL KIT, because I had to cut the wires and re-splice them just to get the car to run. And if I ever try to sell this thing I want a clean P+P harness. The friggen thing cost me $17 to ship it back w/ $600 insurance. And I gotta do that again when I receive the third kit!!!!!

One more thing....uni-chip should make hand-held controllers for their chips, kinda like a scan tool that can be used to re-program the map. AND they should sell them. Apex has one for their stand alone ecu upgrade and I believe haultech has one too that many GM and Ford users buy.
Old 07-21-2004, 01:15 AM
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thats weird Ant, when I mentioned the mugen mods to Jack he acted very surprised and as if he'd never heard of it before.
Old 07-21-2004, 07:50 PM
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i'm really starting to believe they are tryin to pull a fast one on us. Not by riping us off but by feeding us bullshit for info like we have not one once of automotive knowledge. I told him about the lower temp thermostat and other mugen mods months ago!!!!
Old 07-21-2004, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ant7701
i'm really starting to believe they are tryin to pull a fast one on us. Not by riping us off but by feeding us bullshit for info like we have not one once of automotive knowledge. I told him about the lower temp thermostat and other mugen mods months ago!!!!
I sure hope not.

I have only driven my car twice since I put the chip in. Pretty much test drives both times. I am about to make a trip to Houston, about 5 hrs. I am not sure if I am going to leave it in or not. What do y'all think?

I wish they would hurry up and let us know what is going on!

Unless I am missing something, I don't believe anymore has got a good dyno on there own yet.
Old 07-21-2004, 09:51 PM
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i am getting the new map sent to me, i talked to jack today...the only way we can get our money back is to prove we can make more hp with a different ecu,
Old 07-21-2004, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by darrinb
i am getting the new map sent to me, i talked to jack today...the only way we can get our money back is to prove we can make more hp with a different ecu,

Way to stand behind your business UniChip. But out a dyno with good numbers and they will buy it. They are the only people that have dynoed good numbers. This sucks.
Old 07-21-2004, 10:19 PM
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if this new map dont work i will prove jack wrong by making more power with the e-manage
Old 07-22-2004, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by darrinb
make more hp with a different ecu,


I may be testing here soon.
Old 07-22-2004, 11:11 PM
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AC-L should all pitch in together and buy our own friggen dyno machine. And i was wondering that myself...all of the "good" dynos w/ the uni-chip are from them, and I haven't seen any of the posted!!
Old 07-22-2004, 11:13 PM
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your right ant only good dynos have been from them, if i could get more hp from the e-man then would i be the only one to get a refund or all of us if we want
Old 07-22-2004, 11:17 PM
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After driving without the unichip since my dyno on Monday, I've noticed a few things;

Definite loss of midrange torque without the chip. Takes more effort to move the car between 3k and 5k. half throttle to three quarter throttle feels less powerful and less responsive.

WOT runs on stock ECU are MUCH faster. Car has much more power now through VTEC.

The way they have the midrange set is PERFECT, I miss the chip at low RPM. But I dont miss it when I mash down the gas. If they can just correct the VTEC on my chip and give it some more fuel, I think I'll be much happier. Then again, will it go back to stock or will there actually be a gain? Its not worth 600$ just for a midrange RPM gain .. even though its a considerable gain.

EDIT: Oh, and gas mileage went to shit without the Unichip. I got almost 300mi to a tank with the chip and after I took it out I had to fill at 250 something, and that was dead empty.
Old 07-22-2004, 11:19 PM
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have u had your chip re-maped yet blader??

edit:

cause your running to lean, once u add more fuel it will go back lower
Old 07-22-2004, 11:22 PM
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no, I sent Jack my dyno on Monday and ever since then we've been playing phone tag. I've had work alot, and when I havent had work I've been at the beach beautiful week here in NJ ...

I will try to get ahold of him tomorrow but I think I am doing my new Rotora slotted rotors when I get home from work so I might not get a chance to call .. definetly Monday. I am going to see what he can do about remapping from like 4K to redline. everything below that pulls great.
Old 07-22-2004, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by blader
I am going to see what he can do about remapping from like 4K to redline. everything below that pulls great.
Add 15% fuel
Old 07-22-2004, 11:27 PM
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steve, the only thing I'm worried about, like I said, is that if he adds fuel, it will bring back the pull in VTEC. but will it bring it back to the pull that the stock ECU has?

In other words, I'm paying 600$ to get the same pull I could get on the stock ECU? Or do you feel like your custom programmed chip actually pulls harder than stock all through the RPM band?
Old 07-23-2004, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by blader
WOT runs on stock ECU are MUCH faster. Car has much more power now through VTEC.

The way they have the midrange set is PERFECT, I miss the chip at low RPM. But I dont miss it when I mash down the gas. If they can just correct the VTEC on my chip and give it some more fuel, I think I'll be much happier. Then again, will it go back to stock or will there actually be a gain? Its not worth 600$ just for a midrange RPM gain .. even though its a considerable gain.
Just a thought, but could this be perception??

What I mean is that if the mid range is definitely stronger, that can nullify the top end affects. In order words, a flatter torque curve can give the impression of less power in certain areas when compared to one that peaks at places. But in the end you run quicker.

Many years ago I heard a story about a GN tuner who was at the track testing soem new mods. He made a pass and knew it was bad, it didn't have the same kick that it normally had. But when he picked up his slip he had shaved 0.25 seconds off of his previous best time. It was latter determined that since there were no areas where power suddenly changed that the car didn't feel as quick when in fact it was quicker.

Again, just my
Old 07-23-2004, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Just a thought, but could this be perception??

What I mean is that if the mid range is definitely stronger, that can nullify the top end affects. In order words, a flatter torque curve can give the impression of less power in certain areas when compared to one that peaks at places. But in the end you run quicker.

Many years ago I heard a story about a GN tuner who was at the track testing soem new mods. He made a pass and knew it was bad, it didn't have the same kick that it normally had. But when he picked up his slip he had shaved 0.25 seconds off of his previous best time. It was latter determined that since there were no areas where power suddenly changed that the car didn't feel as quick when in fact it was quicker.

Again, just my
Thats Jack's arguement. That you're still running faster, its just harder to notice. He's also said that the car will run lean on a dyno but will not run lean on the road. Not really a good way to test that theory unless you hookup something to analyze the air/fuel ratios on the road.

BTW- For those saying the Unichip isn't doing anything for anyone except on the Unichip dynos ... mrsteve got the advertised gains of 7-10whp across the rpm range and he used a different dyno. Yes, his chip is custom tuned, and yes it is a shop thats authorized to tune Unichips, but at the same time its a different dyno, and there were definitely gains.
Old 07-23-2004, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Just a thought, but could this be perception??

What I mean is that if the mid range is definitely stronger, that can nullify the top end affects. In order words, a flatter torque curve can give the impression of less power in certain areas when compared to one that peaks at places. But in the end you run quicker.

Many years ago I heard a story about a GN tuner who was at the track testing soem new mods. He made a pass and knew it was bad, it didn't have the same kick that it normally had. But when he picked up his slip he had shaved 0.25 seconds off of his previous best time. It was latter determined that since there were no areas where power suddenly changed that the car didn't feel as quick when in fact it was quicker.

Again, just my
Very true. I noticed this when I added the Icebox. It fattened up the midrange so there wasn't nearly as much of a kick when the big cams hit as there was with just headers. I've also noticed this with turbo cars. They feel really fast when the boost hits suddenly.
Old 07-23-2004, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by blader
steve, the only thing I'm worried about, like I said, is that if he adds fuel, it will bring back the pull in VTEC. but will it bring it back to the pull that the stock ECU has?

In other words, I'm paying 600$ to get the same pull I could get on the stock ECU? Or do you feel like your custom programmed chip actually pulls harder than stock all through the RPM band?

No I don't really "feel" the power THAT much. I will agree with you guys that there is more power under partial throttle conditions. The way I can actually "feel" the power increase is if I'm in 3rd gear around 50 MPH and go WOT. I get to VTEC MUCH FASTER than without the chip. The added torque in the mid range really helps out there. That same additional power is obviously there in 1st and 2nd and the other OD gears but with 1st and 2nd the acceleration is pretty quick that it is hard to feel such a linear gain in power when you are WOT.

You can see how much the torque band grew got after the UniChip between 4000-45000 RPM. It really gives a decent kick that I can feel... after that VTEC is right around the corner and from there it pulls HARD to redline. Redline in 3rd gear is around 107-108 MPH on a flat road. Downhill it is obviously more like 110... especially after recently addign the UR pulley set.


Old 07-23-2004, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by scalbert
Just a thought, but could this be perception??

What I mean is that if the mid range is definitely stronger, that can nullify the top end affects. In order words, a flatter torque curve can give the impression of less power in certain areas when compared to one that peaks at places. But in the end you run quicker.

Many years ago I heard a story about a GN tuner who was at the track testing soem new mods. He made a pass and knew it was bad, it didn't have the same kick that it normally had. But when he picked up his slip he had shaved 0.25 seconds off of his previous best time. It was latter determined that since there were no areas where power suddenly changed that the car didn't feel as quick when in fact it was quicker.

Again, just my
the hondata RSX'ers experience this same thing ...the band is smoothed out and many people complained the car was slower when in fact the track showed signifigant gains
Old 07-23-2004, 05:54 PM
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You've got to be kidding....

Originally Posted by darrinb
i am getting the new map sent to me, i talked to jack today...the only way we can get our money back is to prove we can make more hp with a different ecu,




You’ve got to be kidding me...



So, if you lose power with the one you've currently got, it makes perfect sense that a "do-nothing" box is going to make more power.



So....



I can sell you a plastic box with do-nothing wires in it, if that's what you need to show that you are meeting their warranty standards.



“The Nada-Chip” $20.00 + S/H (Salsa option is extra )



You just tape the box with wires that go nowhere to the top of the stock ECU, to get 0 HP and 0 TQ relative to stock.





BTW, that is the LAMEST warranty I've ever seen. Someone tell me that is the real criteria to get your money back...

Old 07-23-2004, 06:16 PM
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^ UniChip's guarantee states that no other system will make more power. The 1st map that was recieved obviously needed to be adjusted. They never said they won't keep trying to make it right over and over again until they do so; because they will. I'm confident that UniChip will make it right for everyone and will not have to start sending out refunds.

From UniChip's website:

Our Warranty Policy

For 90 days following the original owner’s purchase of a Unichip, Unichip of North America (UNA) warrants no other ECU product generates more power from a specific gasoline engine than a properly functioning, custom tuned Unichip in the specific vehicle for which it is tuned. If another ECU product generates more power from that engine within 90 days of the original owner’s purchase of the Unichip, then UNA will refund original owner the cost of all UNA parts, UNA installation, and UNA tuning. Shipping, testing, dynamometer costs and the cost of removing any UNA parts are specifically not covered by this warranty and will not be refunded to the owner.

To claim a refund, owners must provide dynamometer proof another ECU product produced more power when installed on the specific vehicle and that vehicle and all of its parts were in an identical condition other than the ECU enhancement. Three dynamometer tests must be performed using the Unichip and three tests using the other ECU product. The average of the three tests performed on each product shall constitute that product’s score for determining power. The same technician, using the same dynamometer in an identical condition with the same settings, must perform all test runs. All environmental conditions including temperature and pressure altitude and the vehicle’s cooling system temperatures and drive train temperatures must also be identical for all six runs. The vehicle must also use the same fuel for all six tests. UNA reserves the rights to, at UNA’s exclusive discretion, re-tune the Unichip involved in a performance warranty claim at no cost to the customer making the claim or to provide a warranty refund; if after a retune, the Unichip still makes less power than another product, UNA will provide a refund IAW this warranty statement.

All UNA parts, including Unichip piggyback computers, driver modules, and harnesses also carry a limited warranty against manufacturer’s defect. This warranty is valid for the original owner only, for two years from the date of purchase regardless of the installation date. UNA only warrants Unichip products sold directly from UNA or from an authorized UNA reseller. If a UNA product is found defective, UNA will provide a replacement component at no cost to the owner. Shipping to UNA, testing, dynamometer costs and the cost of removing any UNA parts are specifically not covered by this warranty and will not be refunded to the owner.The above warranties are expressly made in lieu of any and all other warranties, express or implied, including any warranty on the engineering or design of the goods as well as the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Any and all warranties on the Unichip are void if: 1) the installation or custom tuning of the Unichip was performed by anyone other than a UNA qualified dealer or tuner, 2) anyone other than a qualified UNA tuner or dealer alters or modifies or attempts to alter or modify any of the electronic data within the Unichip or 3) the UNA product is used for anything other than its intended purpose or is physically or electrically damaged. For all warranty claims, the product return shipping date stamp must be within the appropriate time limitation from the time of purchase. Additionally, proof of purchase in the form of either a properly completed warranty card or a sales receipt indicating both the date of sale and owners name is required and is the owner’s responsibility. Customers with hard-wire installations are responsible for providing proof of when and where the installation was performed. UNA will deny any warranty claim if the customer cannot provide proof of purchase.

UNA is not liable for incidental, consequential or punitive damages attributable directly or indirectly to the Unichip or UNA’s actions or inactions with respect to the Unichip. UNA is also specifically not responsible or liable for damage of any kind: 1) to a vehicle into which UNA products are installed or 2) resulting from the use of a vehicle equipped with any UNA products.

UNA believes high performance driving should be confined to appropriate venues such as racetracks or organized closed course events such as Autocross competitions, and does not sanction or participate in any street racing or other illicit driving activity.

UNA is not liable for incidental, consequential or punitive damages attributable directly or indirectly to the Unichip or UNA’s actions or inactions with respect to the Unichip. UNA is also specifically not responsible or liable for damage of any kind: 1) to a vehicle into which UNA products are installed or 2) resulting from the use of a vehicle equipped with any UNA products.

UNA believes high performance driving should be confined to appropriate venues such as racetracks or organized closed course events such as Autocross competitions or off-road rallies, and does not sanction or participate in any street racing or other illicit driving activity such as speeding.
Old 07-23-2004, 06:19 PM
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And no one is "losing power" they just aren't gaining power throughout the powerband like they should. Some people, myself included lost less than 2 whp in the upper RPM range yet they made power down low. So your rant about your "do nothing" box was pretty useless. I guess you'll be left looking for a place to stick your "Nada-Chip"; I could give a suggestion although the "optional salsa" might make it a little messy.

x 10000000
Old 07-23-2004, 06:29 PM
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I too miss the gas mileage. My chip is at unichip getting a new map. Can't wait to have it back. Driving around town I have to give it more gas to get it going.
Old 07-23-2004, 08:44 PM
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Hi, guys I have been reading this thread now and waiting that for uni-chip to fix this. It seems to me that mrsteve got an extra five hp and 3 tq which is not what I paid for they said 10-12 for both that is why I bought it. I charged this on my amex and if uni-chip does not fix this and get me what I paid for I will be calling amex and let them handle this. As far as what they say that we have to prove another chip makes more power that is bull they said 10-12 and we are not getting that. I am going to wait until the end of the month and hope that they fix this but if not I am not getting stuck paying 600 for 5 hp.
Old 07-23-2004, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by polo
Hi, guys I have been reading this thread now and waiting that for uni-chip to fix this. It seems to me that mrsteve got an extra five hp and 3 tq which is not what I paid for they said 10-12 for both that is why I bought it. I charged this on my amex and if uni-chip does not fix this and get me what I paid for I will be calling amex and let them handle this. As far as what they say that we have to prove another chip makes more power that is bull they said 10-12 and we are not getting that. I am going to wait until the end of the month and hope that they fix this but if not I am not getting stuck paying 600 for 5 hp.

UGH!!!!! I wanna scream at you guys who say this crap! I gained 5 whp and 3#/ft AT PEAK POWER!!

DID YOU MISS THE REST OF THE DYNO??? About 8-12#/ft and at the MINIMUM 5 whp THROUGHOUT!!! This is MUCH more important than adding only 10-12 PEAK horsepower.

Every car is different and will react differently to ANY MOD YOU PUT ON IT...ANYTHING. Some cars just make more power... when it comes to ECU control this variable becomes even more prevalent.

It's not like Jack is telling us to go fuck ourselves and that we are SOL... his entire staff had a meeting this week to discuss our particular project. And updated map is in the process of development and will very shortly be released. No other company has stepped up for us CL-S/TL-S owners like UniChip has. What other company was willing to do all the R&D work for a performance product that had the potential to only serve 20 members of an original group buy... NOBODY! And UniChip hasn't stopped their effort to serve us since day #1. I doubted them too after seeing my original dyno but you know what? After speaking with Tony and Jack regarding my issues, I got the ball rolling for the entire re-map of the UniChip for those users who are having problems. The fact that people are STILL doubting UniChip's intentions after everything they are doing BEYOND the initial group buy is commendable.

Have you installed the UniChip yet? Have you experienced any problems? Have you experienced any gains? Have you experienced anything other than a desire to get your money back because you are doubtful of the potential of this modification?

We entered uncharted waters when we joined the UniChip group buy. Never before had their been an ECU controller designed SPECIFICALLY for the CL-S/TL-S. The Apexi S-AFC is a universal controller that a handful of members have tried, with lackluster results, far worse than the UniChip.

I wish some of you people would quit "wanting" this mod to fail, like you'd get some vindication out of it if UniChip totally screwed up. It was impossible for them to realize our cars would vary so much to an ECU controller.

If you are that unsatisfied so far call Jack, with an open mind of course, and he will speak with you until he knows you are absolutely sure of the UniChip's abilities and their desire to make this work for us.


End rant


Old 07-24-2004, 06:28 PM
  #514  
dj5
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I took my car by GRD in Naperville, IL (Unichip tuner) on Saturday July 24th to have them check out the A/F and possibly retune if needed.

They spend about two hours hooked up to the dyno and checking the A/F along with the other specs. They told me it had premature detonation on both the A & B maps and it was running to lean at 14:1. He said he would try to re-tune but when he hooked up his computer he could download the existing program but could not upload to the chip.

They advised to plug the chip out of the car and to contact Jack. They said they would give Jack a call on Monday as well. They knew about the group buy and knew about the West coast guys with the A/F problem.

When I went in to set up an appointment with them last week, they called Jack while I was standing there. They talked for about 15 minutes. Jack basically told him a couple of cars were running too lean and they were adjusting the map for the ones who requested.

Will give you guys an update on what I hear back.
Old 07-26-2004, 06:29 PM
  #515  
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ya know what I was thinking about today....because Jack and uni-chip keep blaming all of this confusion on Intake air temp between the dyno and the real world differing. If our cars are sooo damn sensitive, does this mean we are gonna run too lean or too rich when winter comes????
Old 07-26-2004, 06:57 PM
  #516  
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Now that you mention it, probably. I know my friends truck used to have to be tuned for winter gas, then get retuned in spring for summer gas.
Old 07-26-2004, 07:13 PM
  #517  
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Originally Posted by Ant7701
ya know what I was thinking about today....because Jack and uni-chip keep blaming all of this confusion on Intake air temp between the dyno and the real world differing. If our cars are sooo damn sensitive, does this mean we are gonna run too lean or too rich when winter comes????
We'll see soon enough. I beleive my car ran leaner during the winter but I was also tuning it at the same time so I can't say for sure. So as soon as cooler air hits I need to watch the Wide Band monitor to see what the ratio is doing.
Old 07-26-2004, 07:39 PM
  #518  
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one thing that sucks is that i need to keep on getting 100 dollar dynos to see if the chip is doing its job, looks like i will have to dyno in the winter so see if the a/f changes now too
Old 07-26-2004, 11:38 PM
  #519  
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They should sell us the software!!!!!I would absolutely love to have the software for tuning the uni-chip on a PDA. or if not sell the software they should sell handheld controllers w/ the software uploaded and locked in so members like us can purchase them for a profit to THEM and tune as we please on ANY dyno!!!!!

I'm DEAD BALLS SERIOUS about this. Does anyone think this could be possible w/ some finese talking to Jack???It would make perfect sense....I'd buy one and then they would have NO MORE PROBLEMS FROM ME. They won't lose anymore money by shipping me kit after kit and they could move on to another project.

and BTW...the winter shit is really starting to piss me off!!!Next time I talk to Jack I'm gonna mention that.
Old 07-27-2004, 12:00 AM
  #520  
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i hope the re-maped chip works out for me, i get it tommorw

if not i dont want to deal with all this bullshit, spending more money on dynos, wasting my time sending the chip back and forth, i'd just want a refund. but i know that that price comes with quantity, so jack sold 35 chips he was expecting to make a certain amount of money, so if a few people want a refund i dont think it would be a full refund.


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