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Just curious, Thefireball, since you swapped the Type-S cams, from your partially disassembled J32A2 heads, is it possible for you to post a picture(s) of the actual J32A2 lost motion assembly ([color=#333333]14820-ZY3-405)?
I'm just wondering if the latest (14820-P8F-A01) LMA's, pictured above, are a further improvement since the design changed and this is what Acura is currently selling should one need replacements?
Hey Zeta, the newer lmas are improved design. The ones on my cls6 motor were the bullet style top with a small spring on the underside. I know some of the older h series had oil pressurized Lmas, which switched to the coil type in 99. The old design tends to wear out and not hold pressure at idle, so the valvetrain gets noisy. The 1st j series im not sure if they were oil pressurized. But, i can tell you that the new one's are basically just a coil spring with a flat top, no oil pressure. This is what my RL parts motor had so that is what i am using on my build. here's a quick pic of my head without the rockers. you can see the 3 lma coils on the intake side.
other pics are of the j32a2 orig ones. they do have a small orifice at the base
Hey Zeta, the newer lmas are improved design. The ones on my cls6 motor were the bullet style top with a small spring on the underside. I know some of the older h series had oil pressurized Lmas, which switched to the coil type in 99. The old design tends to wear out and not hold pressure at idle, so the valvetrain gets noisy. The 1st j series im not sure if they were oil pressurized. But, i can tell you that the new one's are basically just a coil spring with a flat top, no oil pressure. This is what my RL parts motor had so that is what i am using on my build. here's a quick pic of my head without the rockers. you can see the 3 lma coils on the intake side.
other pics are of the j32a2 orig ones. they do have a small orifice at the base
Thanks 619rcr for that information & the pictures!
When I zoom in on the RL LMA's, as you stated, one can see the spring.
They look a lot more heartier then the older LMA version.
Thanks 619rcr for that information & the pictures!
When I zoom in on the RL LMA's, as you stated, one can see the spring.
They look a lot more heartier then the older LMA version.
definitely. i don't wanna thread jack, so I'll bow out now. later guys.
I'm running the newer style LMAs. I can take a pic next week. Getting the valve cover off doesn't take long.
Thefireball, in addition, while you are there, can you measure a J32A2 intake valve with that nice digital caliper you have?
619rcr provided the picture below, in another thread, and I was just wondering what the official dial caliper result would be.
Originally Posted by 619rcr
pretty damn close to me, i think i remember someone saying 35.5 rounded to 36
Thefireball, in addition, while you are there, can you measure a J32A2 intake valve with that nice digital caliper you have?
619rcr provided the picture below, in another thread, and I was just wondering what the official dial caliper result would be.
Measured two different J35A3 intake valves; similar results.
1.376 inches, or 34.9504
Also, I'm too lazy to pull out my LMAs.
Last edited by Thefireball; 06-06-2022 at 01:16 PM.
No, those two pics are 2 different J35A3 intake valves. Not J32.
And wow. There's so much room in the CL with that K20 in it. How did they get a CL in Japan though, and why? I like it, but I prefer the J over the 4 bangers. Been looking at getting this really beat up RSX base model. $750 for it, but it needs a lot of work. If I get it, then I'll be in the RSX section of these forums as well, lol.
Last edited by Thefireball; 06-06-2022 at 02:23 PM.
So a bit of an update pertaining to the J35A3 swap itself. When I was originally putting the car back together, I had a lot of trouble with a part upon installation. The serpentine belt.
It was incredibly difficult to put back on, and I had required help from my girl. I pulled the tensioner back with all my strength, while she used a pry bar to get it on. Even then, half of the belt was still stuck around the edge of the crank pulley. After it was fully on, the tensioner barely went down, because the belt was already so tight.
I've been driving the car around with it like this, which is obviously bad for the crank bearings inside. But it's held up, aside from the squeezing from the crank pulley.
I went down to the autoparts store to do an oil change, and to see if there was a difference in parts numbers for the belt between the J32 & J35. Turns out, they are different, with the J35 belt being slightly larger. I tried showing the difference by pulling on both belts side by side with it held on to something.
The difference in length isn't massive, but it was a world of difference with installation. It slipped right over the pulleys with some slack left over, and the tensioner went down, ridding of the slack. So if you're doing the J35A3 swap, make sure to swap over the belts as well. The squeek has gone away, and I was hoping this might fix my rough idle with the AC on, but alas, it did not. Maybe the bearing for the AC pulley is just going out, who knows. But the car absolutely HATES the AC being on. Well, that is until it warms up, then it's fine.
The idle on a cold start actually has a classic V8 style chop to it when the AC is on. Not a huge drop in RPMs, but you can feel it pulling forward out of the drive way every time it goes up.
In addition to doing all this, that being the oil change & filter, and the belt, I also took the time to enlarge the holes for the IACV ports.
You can see the before & after, as well as the size increase on the caliper. I didn't notice much of a difference in idle, but maybe it'll show when I'm actually driving the car; we'll see I suppose.
And, last but not least, where would I be if I weren't fixing an issue and another one arises. 'Arises' is an understatement, because the coolant hose that goes from the top of the radiator to the the coolant passages has ballooned up.
I took the pictures after finishing everything, so the car has cooled off by then. But the ballooning was much, much larger before. I wrapped it in a bunch of aluminum tape to help prevent it from busting, just as a temporary fix. I'll be going down to the auto parts store to fix it ASAP. Hopefully they have the part. TL's tags are expired, so I sure hope they have the part. Guess it's time to renew them; there goes part of the 6 speed swap money. (Which will be soon™)
The difference in length isn't massive, but it was a world of difference with installation.
Interesting.
CL-S/TL-S; (Mitsuboshi); 38920-P8C-A02; 22.0 x 5.0 x 0.8 inches
MDX; (Mitsuboshi); 38920-P8F-A02; 22.2 x 6.3 x 1.0 inches
MDX; 38920-P8F-306; 17.4 x 4.8 x 0.8 inches
Picture of my CL-S6 manual trans barcode shows 'C6' versus 'MC6'
This looks like Accord V6 manual trans.
The CL-S6 shift lever should be at the far end (red):
Therefore, he's either untruthful or just does not know wtf he's got.
Picture of my CL-S6 manual trans barcode shows 'C6' versus 'MC6'
This looks like Accord V6 manual trans.
The CL-S6 shift lever should be at the far end (red):
Therefore, he's either untruthful or just does not know wtf he's got.
I originally asked them if it came out of an Acura CL and they said yes. I just messaged them asking them what car it came out of, and they said a TL Type S, and then eventually they said a 2007 Acura TL Type S.
I think you're correct on your second remark. I told them that they should at least clarify that in their post.
I can't think of any easier way to visually identify; therefore, If you come across another 'prospective' advertised CL-S6 trans., the easiest way to verify before purchase is to ask for a picture of the 'shift arm' and the trans mounted crank sensor. CL-S6; 24470-PYZ-000
@Thefireball the guy I purchased the used cls gear set from is selling the bare clutch case and transmission case. The clutch case is still sold new, but its pricey. The shift arm itself is discontinued. but as Zeta pointed out elsewhere can be modified to add a second peg... cls clutch case cls trans case
@Thefireball the guy I purchased the used cls gear set from is selling the bare clutch case and transmission case. The clutch case is still sold new, but its pricey. The shift arm itself is discontinued. but as Zeta pointed out elsewhere can be modified to add a second peg... cls clutch case cls trans case
use it with another non cls j series trans that you can pickup from the junkyards. the clutch case and the rear mounted sensor are unique to the cls6. the gears and trans case are not.
just a suggestion. easier than looking for unicorns.
use it with another non cls j series trans that you can pickup from the junkyards. the clutch case and the rear mounted sensor are unique to the cls6. the gears and trans case are not.
just a suggestion. easier than looking for unicorns.
Isn't there a sensor that mounts onto the bell housing casing as well?
The bellhousing is aka clutch case
The part number for trans case is discontinued. idk what makes it unique. maybe just that the newer ones used different mounting. Anyways both halves are for sale from same guy. I thought about getting the clutch case myself for a spare.
05-28-2022, 02:17 PM
(Which will be soon™)
