When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Alright, so it's been about a month, and i've been debating about how I wanted to start this thread, mainly because I am an idiot, and a lot of this is my fault.. I originally planned on waiting for everything to be a success and then post a good story, but so far, i've ran into so many complications.
I want give thanks to Zeta for lending an ear and actually listening through this stressful time. Not to mention, that amount of help they have been. They've provided my information and threads for refference and have been extremely helpful with everything. I talk a lot, and i'm used to being called annoying, so I appreciate Zeta actually tolerating the amount of messages i've sent him. I type paragraphs, and I know a lot of people just skim the majority of what I say. That's why i'll be posting a TL;DR.
But I wouldn't have been able to do a lot of the stuff on my car if it weren't for this forum. There's a vast amount of information on here that has not only encouraged me to work on cars, but actually swap out and take apart my motor. And, before anyone wants to call me an idiot, which I 100% agree with, I do want to say that I have learned A LOT; both the hard & expensive way.
With the amount that I know now, it makes me feel confident with working on any car, even if I would say ours is pretty easy compared to say a 1UZ-FE (But only because I just bought it as a second car and it looks intimidating). So with this out of the way, i'm going to start my multi paragraphs of posts. The TL;DR will be at the end.
I've had an oil leak for awhile now. The first observation was with this previous thread of mine: ' https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...imiter-990271/ '. I originally blamed it on the Oil drain plug, which did fix the bigger issue. But it turned out later that I discovered, I still had an oil leak. I don't remember the exact time frame of things, but I eventually deduced that the issue was from the oil pan gasket being bad. It wasn't something that I was able to immediately get to due to the simple fact that my exhaust is fully welded, except for where the headers meet to the J Pipe. There's simply not enough leverage on the exhaust to remove the oil pan, or at least I believe so. Still haven't found out. I was simply just topping off the oil, checking every now and then. I was still getting into races when ever they presented them selves. But I guess the more that I would down shift into second, and go WOT, the worse the gasket became. I did plan on getting it fixed, having scheduled an appointment at a shop to have a flange put in place to be able to remove the J Pipe. only for all of the shops around here to be backed up for more than a week, and by the time it was my turn I was out of money! Everyday I drove my car, it was always in the back of my mind, but really didn't seem like it was THAT big of an issue. I still don't know if that was the main issue of what happened, but I believe it to be. I'll explain my reasoning below, after I say what happens.
Before reading the below paragraph: I DO NOT ENCOURAGE STREET RACING AT ALL. IT IS STUPID AND WRECKLESS, AND CAN COST YOU YOUR LIFE, AS WELL AS PUT OTHERS AT RISK. DON'T BE STUPID.
I had just gotten off work, and was driving home. I was doing the speed limit (45 MPH), and a Camaro had sped past me doing 60 MPH. I had really been itching to get into another race. It's just too much fun to resistant throwing our car into VTEC. So I started to speed up to the Camaro. I got up to 60, about 5 cars away from the Camaro. They then went up to 70 MPH, so I followed, and was about 3 cars away. Then they went up to 80 MPH, and I then followed. I was in the other lane, right behind them. I prefer Cat & Mouse chase types of races, as I really love the feeling of reeling people in, giving them the advantage. Eventually, we get to a spot that is perfect for getting into a race. At this point, we were both doing the speed limit. We were lined up, and I looked over at them. They had tinted windows, so I couldn't see them. Mine are half tinted, so they should have seen me looking at them. I look at the road, and I honk my horn 3 times, and let 'er rip. I don't know if that Camaro was a V8 or not, but I gapped them by like 5 cars really quickly. Either they were fucking with me, or they were really slow. It sounded like they didn't try at first, and then went WOT, and then gave up. I don't know. Doesn't matter, the whole ordeal was stupid, as is street racing. Now, nothing happened then. I drove about 5 miles after that to a gas station to grab a beer for the night. I get my beer, and get back in my car. Only about 3 miles from my home at this point. I'm driving, and about 2 miles in, I start feeling power loss. Now I do want to mention that 2 weeks prior to this happening, I had been feeling a random misfire when driving home. I blamed it on the TPS, as I had been fiddling with it on the Skunk2 Throttle body, trying to get it within the current voltage since I had gotten it. There was no CEL for it, so I didn't think too much about. Anyhow, I felt that same Misfire, but it was bad this time. My power was cut in half. after about 5 seconds, the CEL came on. I threw on my hazards, and pulled over to the side of the road. As I was doing that, I heard an awful noise. It sounded like 2 gears grinding, followed by a KNOCK-KNOCK-KNOCK-KNOCK. As soon as I got to the side of the road, she died; stalled, and then the smell of burning metal as I went to open my hood.
Now, I want to mention that I had been doing the speed limit when this happened. My car did not overheat when this happened. I do not know what my oil level was at before this happened. I had tried cranking the car, no start. I continued, and was pushing the gas pedal while doing it. It sounded like it wanted to start, but just barely. So I held the gas pedal down, and she started.. but she sounded awful; like she wanted to die. I could keep her alive, but only if I keep the gas pedal down. I had to be careful not to over rev her, and to put her into gear. I don't want to kill my transmission too. I eventually get it, and drive 1 mile home like this, at 25 MPH. As soon as I get home and into my parking space, she stalls. Dead. I called out from work the next down, just to start tearing down the motor and figuring out what happened. When I heard the knocking, I immediately knew the motor was fucked. So I started hitting up friends who knew anyone who could swap out engines, as a local shop wanted $2k alone for labor + however much I spend on the motor that I find. I eventually found one, and began getting everything ready to put in a J35A3, while also figuring out what happened. At the same time, I also didn't trust a complete stranger with all of the mods that I had put on my car, so I wanted to pull them off and keep them to aside.
So, first thing to be pulled off was clearly the intake and the manifold, and then the lower intake runners, which is were I see the first signs of damage.
Well shit, that's not good. So I decide to dig deeper, and I then pulled out all of the spark plugs. All of them came out fine, granted, the front ones are blackened, while the back bank looked fine.. except for one. Cylinder #1 was extremely difficult to get out. No clue why.. until I finally got it out and figured out why.
Now, at this point, I realize that it was bad. Really bad. But I still didn't know HOW bad. I eventually waited to have my car towed to the mechanic, which whom runs out of the back of their house in the garage. Super friendly. Spoke little to no English, but was very good at what they did. I ran by everything that needed to be done as far as the swap, but he just told me that it would better if I did it. I happily agreed, as i've always wanted to dissect an engine. So I get to it. The engine arrives, albeit, it terrible shape. The people who delivered it did a terrible job. The oil pan had a giant hole in it, the tensioner pulley has been ripped cleaned off, and a bolt had been broken off into the block. We fix all of that, no big deal. The timing belt and all the pulleys and water pump looked brand new. So we didn't touch those. I swapped in my J32A2
camshafts, and we put everything back together. This was a big mistake.. i'll explain later. Day 2, I had started back on the new motor putting everything back together, and making sure everything was in time.
After assembling everything vital, I decide to do a compression test. I was stupid for not testing this first when I got my hands on the engine, but a lesson learned. Either way, we were getting no compression on two separate cylinder. We blamed it on not being able to crank it quick enough. Even still, we proceeded. I had came back over the next day to assist even more in the swap, only to find out that he had my old motor pulled already, and pulled the heads off. These next images might be hard to look at; viewer discretion is advised:
I knew it was bad, but not THIS bad. Gaze upon the destruction, and cringe.
We eventually get the motor swapped in, and prepare to start it up. Upon starting it, there was a really loud 'BANG'. We figured it to be an exhaust leak from the rear header to J Pipe flange being full of gasoline. It idles, but poorly. It's misfiring and shaking like crazy. We figure it might just need to settle into it's new home. Who knows how long it has been since this motor has been started. So I take it for a test drive. It was absolutely awful. I bring it back, and we start figuring out what might be wrong. He brings out a code reader, and we find out that there is a misfire amongst ALL of the cylinders. So we start looking around while it's running, and noticing gasoline shooting out of the rear bank rail. I also replaced the fuel injectors, trying to match serial numbers, only for that to make matters worse, and causing the motor to no longer want to idle at all. We figure it was the fuel injectors being bad, since I did decide to reuse my old ones, and that was crap in them that was clogging them.. So I order some remanufactured ones off of Ebay. Took a couple day, but I go them in; eager to drive my new car. No difference, at all. So I have it towed home, and start dissecting it at home.
Me working on putting in the new fuel injectors:
Gaze upon the stupid idiot that is me.
I eventually realized that I did not do a valve adjustment upon swapping camshafts. Now, i'm going to spare the rest of the diagnosis, because in the end, it was pointless. What I will say is that EVERY EXHAUST VALVE WAS OVERTIGHENED WAAAAAY TOO MUCH. Upon starting the motor for the first time, or hell, even doing that compression test, I messed up the valves. I was exhausted at this point. I had been working on this motor, my car, for 2 full weeks at this point. I've taken apart and put together timing belt too many times at this point, that it's become super simple at this point. Now, I didn't know this at the time, but 2 exhaust valves were bent on cylinder #1. I initially thought a head gasket had blown, or that I had burned the exhaust valves, and was the reason for the loud 'BANG' originally. The spark plugs had been covered in oil, and there was motor oil in the top of the radiator where the cap sits. It was that milky & oily look floating in it. So I planned a day to pull off my cylinder heads. This was something I had NEVER done before. It sucked. It was a lot of work, but I did it. But holy crap, do I NOT look forward to putting everything back together again. Upon pulling them, I notice that the gasket actually looked fine. Still ordered replacements, along with bolts, anyways. But upon inspecting this was what I found:\
That same day, I took them to a machine shop, and that's where I stand now. I'm currently waiting for the shop to report back the damage; both towards the heads, and my wallet. I asked them to port match the heads to my intake runners, but they said that they didn't do that. Ahh well.\
I want to reiterate something though.. I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. I'VE NEVER PULLED A CAMSHAFT BEFORE. I'VE NEVER DONE A VALVE ADJUSTMENT BEFORE. I'VE NEVER SWAPPED A MOTOR BEFORE. I'VE NEVER PULLED A CYLINDER HEAD BEFORE. I learned the hard and expensive way about just how important a valve adjustment is. I will never make that mistake again.
I don't know why it didn't click before. It's sort of common sense that swapping out camshafts would require a valve adjustment. Duh, stupid me.
While the bad news is that I ruined the new engine already, the good news is that the pistons look fine and untouched.
Then front bank cylinder head also looked fine, but I figured that since I was taking off the difficult one, the rear bank, I might as well take off the front bank. Have them both checked out, especially since EVERY SINGLE EXHAUST VALVE WAS OVERTIGHTENED.
So now I wait, until either this friday or monday to find out the state of my heads. They looked fine. I'm hoping I don't get a call telling me "You're screwed. Gotta get new ones". Guess we'll all find out.
TL;DR: Blew up my engine after a race. Swapped in a J35A3 from a 2002 Acura MDX. Swapped in my J32A2 camshafts. Didn't know I needed to do a valve adjustment (DUH). Bent the exhaust valves as they were way way way too tight after the camshaft swaps. Pulled off the cylinder heads. I'm now waiting on the machine shop to call me back.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-19-2021 at 03:54 AM.
Tough break on your first engine install. I've learned the hard way many times to just take a break when you're exhausted.
That's what I'm doing while waiting for the heads to be rebuilt. After I get this fixed, I have to start fixing up the second car. Fun.
I'm glad you left a comment though, because I wanted to know what you think may have happened here. I'm guessing a bearing just completely went, and let the piston travel freely. I never got around to exploring the rest of the destroyed motor, so we won't really know. It's just bizarre how big of a hole is in that piston.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-19-2021 at 01:48 PM.
These engines handle being abused just fine, so it's hard to say why the cylinder 1 piston just let go. You could look at the bottom end to see if the rod came apart. There's no explanation other than running the engine without oil, but even then I wouldn't expect that much damage. The oil pan must be full of the carnage.
These engines handle being abused just fine, so it's hard to say why the cylinder 1 piston just let go. You could look at the bottom end to see if the rod came apart. There's no explanation other than running the engine without oil, but even then I wouldn't expect that much damage. The oil pan must be full of the carnage.
I wanted to keep the old motor and pull it apart, but being that I live in an apartment, I had no where to store it. Ah well. The rod was still connected, at least I assume so. It was knocking when I was driving it back home.
The oil level was extremely low after this happened. Besides the oil only touching the tip of the dipstick there was metal in it. Removing the oil pan was like panning for gold, except it wasn't wasn't yellow.
Machine shop told me they were "in the blast cabinet" yesterday. Won't be done until Tuesday or Wednesday. Then I can start putting everything back together.
If things still don't work out, then I'll be swapping in another motor. This time by myself, in my new home with a garage. It's about time!
Finally picked up my heads today. They're so clean and look brand new.
I didn't take pics of the other head. I wanted to keep that one in the bag they wrapped everything in. The valve lash still needs to be adjusted on these. They said they were tight on purpose. The damage was 2 exhaust and 4 intake valves were bent.
Could anyone fill me in on what this part is? I can't find it in the manual.
There's only 1 O-Ring that was packed with all of the parts, and it's too big to sit in the gap that's on the part. I don't even know if this goes there.
I could be misremembering, but I don't think that exist on the CL-S6. It should just have a plug there. I've never seen a part number for the plug though.
Either way, that O-ring swells up so it won't go back in after removal.
I could be misremembering, but I don't think that exist on the CL-S6. It should just have a plug there. I've never seen a part number for the plug though.
Either way, that O-ring swells up so it won't go back in after removal.
2ndgentl is pointing to the CL-S6 J32A2 head plug, you mention, in the picture below.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Found it! That harness that I'm holding in the previous pic screws in the head where that freeze plug is at on the j32a2. Now I remember, that's why I left that harness on the j35 because what's the difference from keeping that there or putting a freeze plug there. So the pic below is from the j32a2
Weird. Then what does the CL-S6 use in place of it then? I noticed that hole is symmetrical on the other side. But that's where the coolant passage hooks up to.
I got an O Ring at O Reilly's. I just told them I need any O ring that fits. I don't want to spend $3 and wait another week for just a rubber O Ring. The one I got is slightly thicker, but fits in the gap.
I seriously hope that extra thickness doesn't cause any problems. I'd hate to have to take apart the entire timing assembly off again all because of a $1 O ring.
The same port is on the opposite side of the rear cylinder because both the front and rear cylinder heads are actually the same cast. It's blocked off on the CL-S6 because it doesn't use that location for a coolant temp sensor, so the wire coming out of it won't plug into anything. I would just remove the plug from your true CL-S6 engine and insert it into that hole.
The same port is on the opposite side of the rear cylinder because both the front and rear cylinder heads are actually the same cast. It's blocked off on the CL-S6 because it doesn't use that location for a coolant temp sensor, so the wire coming out of it won't plug into anything. I would just remove the plug from your true CL-S6 engine and insert it into that hole.
I was planning to update this thread tonight or tomorrow. I've got a lot of work done this past week. Last night, I was up until 3 AM putting everything together.
Knock sensor broke off, so I had to get a new one, and I needed oil & antifreeze. All that's left is putting in the new knock sensor, spark plugs & packs, intake track, and all the wires.
So I started the car finally. It still seems like it has a misfire, but not nearly to the extent that it was previously. I'm going to chaulk it up to it being the motor just not having ran in awhile and needs to idle for a bit. It's not even causing the CEL to pop up.
Here's the bad news: oil leak. A serious one at that. It dumped half of the oil out while it was running. It looks like it's dripping from two separate areas, which has me worried that it might be leaking from the heads.
I was filling the radiator with coolant, and noticed there was some oil floating in it. But it wasn't as much as it should have been if it was from the heads. I'm thinking it's just what was left when I pulled the heads off.
I haven't located the leak yet. It's 3AM and I'm tired. I'll figure out where it's from tomorrow. But so far, the car runs good. Perhaps the head bolts weren't torqued enough? Maybe my torque wrench is bad? I followed the torque specs correctly, and in the correct order. Could be why it's misfiring still. It's as easy as me just pulling the valve covers off and tightening them again, at least I hope so.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should look at, and what I should test?
So I started the car finally. It still seems like it has a misfire, but not nearly to the extent that it was previously. I'm going to chaulk it up to it being the motor just not having ran in awhile and needs to idle for a bit. It's not even causing the CEL to pop up.
Here's the bad news: oil leak. A serious one at that. It dumped half of the oil out while it was running. It looks like it's dripping from two separate areas, which has me worried that it might be leaking from the heads.
I was filling the radiator with coolant, and noticed there was some oil floating in it. But it wasn't as much as it should have been if it was from the heads. I'm thinking it's just what was left when I pulled the heads off.
I haven't located the leak yet. It's 3AM and I'm tired. I'll figure out where it's from tomorrow. But so far, the car runs good. Perhaps the head bolts weren't torqued enough? Maybe my torque wrench is bad? I followed the torque specs correctly, and in the correct order. Could be why it's misfiring still. It's as easy as me just pulling the valve covers off and tightening them again, at least I hope so.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should look at, and what I should test?
Scratch that. I'm an idiot, again. I forgot the machine shop said that the camshaft oil seals needed to be installed still. I assumed that was the end caps on the battery side, since they were left off. So all of the oil is being drained from behind the camshaft gears I'm assuming. That's not too hard of a fix. It sucks to have to undo all of that, but won't take me that long. Here's hoping AutoZone has the parts so I can have it done tomorrow.
LESSONS BEING LEARNED LEFT AND RIGHT.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-30-2021 at 03:29 AM.
Started up again.
The good news: No more oil leak.
The bad news: Idling is surging between between 1000-2000 RPMs back and forth, if not sitting at 2k RPMS.
The other bad news is that the engine is knocking. It sounds like it's knocking on the belt side of the motor. Probably cylinder 1, since that seems to be a problematic cylinder on these engines.
Any thoughts as to what could be causing the knocking? All of the valves are within spec, but I guess I should check it again. Maybe I bent the valves again? At this rate, I'm just going to have to wait until I move into the new house and swap the motor again in the garage.
Nevermind, it's not a knocking noise. Just a ticking that I mistaked for a knocking. Still has a small misfire though. Sounds cool, like gasoline is getting into the exhaust sort of misfire. Power surge is annoying though. I let it idle a bit more, and eventually the CEL and VSA light came on, and the power surge got less agressive.
I might have an air leak somewhere, but not quite sure. So I ask again; any tips on what to check for?
Edit: While idling, the motor was totally fine. Idling slightly above 1k RPMs. I revved it a bit, and then all hell let loose. There is for sure a rod knock in cylinder 1 now. So that's cool.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-30-2021 at 06:03 PM.
The bad news: Idling is surging between between 1000-2000 RPMs back and forth, if not sitting at 2k RPMS.
I had a surging going on with my auto CL-S that all of a sudden came out of no where. After changing out the IACV valve it continued to surge. It would mostly happen when I came to a stop, placed the car in Park from Drive. Up & down, Up & down. Then I went on the hunt for 'leaks'. I finally found the simple SOB culprit and it was the top vacuum tube (#31) on the electronic control mounting solenoid valve assembly (#12) on the link below. Placed a tie-wrap on both of those connections to make sure it never disconnected again.
I had a surging going on with my auto CL-S that all of a sudden came out of no where. After changing out the IACV valve it continued to surge. It would mostly happen when I came to a stop, placed the car in Park from Drive. Up & down, Up & down. Then I went on the hunt for 'leaks'. I finally found the simple SOB culprit and it was the top vacuum tube (#31) on the electronic control mounting solenoid valve assembly (#12) on the link below. Placed a tie-wrap on both of those connections to make sure it never disconnected again.
I don't know what to say about the perceived 'knock' that you hear. Is there any engine 'history' or data that you know about when purchased?
How does the car drive and can you hear it from inside the car?
I will check that out.
I'll try and get a video of the sound tomorrow up on YouTube and post it here. It's a clacking noise coming from the top of the engine on cylinder one. Didn't check for the noise at the bottom of the motor. I went to turn off the car in fear of furthering damage. Didn't mean to say it was rod knock either.
I did get to drive the car a little bit. It drove fine. The power was.. let's just say I hate being teased. I didn't floor it, but I gave it some power. There was no knocking or power surging, like what you mentioned; only in park. Reading up online, it could possibly be from a bad spark plug, but I honestly doubt it.
It went from a clacking coming and going, which was why I said it was fine, then knocking again, back to idling fine, then I revved it, and now the knocking isn't going away. I'm not sure if the noise is based on temperature or not. I'll figure that out tomorrow.
This whole ordeal is so discouraging. I'm going to try a couple things here and there, but it's seeming like another motor swap is in order. I'll need to take a break to save up the funds, and settle into the new home. So after I try a couple things, I'll be reviving this thread down the line in the future.
My guess: bearing failure. Sounds like it's hitting the head. How hard would it be to put in new ones? From the manual, it looks like I can pull the pistons from underneath, and not up top, meaning I could technically keep the heads on, right? Again, never done this before.
Alright, I hate making post after post after post, but I do have an update.
I went to go test some things out. Timing belt still has tension, so it's not the tensioner. Then I checked the spark plug on cylinder 1, looked fine. Replaced it anyways, plus the coil pack. Still making a knocking noise. I got closer, and it sounded like it was coming from cylinder 2. So I pulled each coil pack, one by one, and the motor didn't make a difference in cylinder 2. I put it back in, and then the knocking went away. I pulled the coil pack out again, and it didn't misfire immediately, then started misfiring.
I just checked spark plug #2, and it is white.I replaced it, and it's coil pack, no more knocking. The knocking came back after revving, but now it's changed cylinders. So the knocking is coming from detonation. I just tried pulling coil packs on every cylinder, and some react, and some don't react. It's hard to tell if all of the spark plugs are bad, or if all of the coil packs are bad. I put a brand new set of spark plugs into this motor, and the coil packs are less than a year old.
What could it mean?
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-31-2021 at 05:20 PM.
I would rule out true engine knock first. If it's going away or moving cylinders, it's unlikely to be rod knock but I'll post a video of rod knock in a J below so you can compare. Also, you can NOT pull the cylinders from the bottom, but you could replace the bearings from the bottom without pulling the engine.
You can use a mechanic's stethoscope or just a screwdriver to find exactly where the noise is coming from. Place the tip of the stethoscope/screwdriver against a timing belt component to make sure it's not a loose tensioner. It might be keeping tension with the engine off, but getting loose while running. Also, are you running oem coil packs?
I would rule out true engine knock first. If it's going away or moving cylinders, it's unlikely to be rod knock but I'll post a video of rod knock in a J below so you can compare. Also, you can NOT pull the cylinders from the bottom, but you could replace the bearings from the bottom without pulling the engine.
You can use a mechanic's stethoscope or just a screwdriver to find exactly where the noise is coming from. Place the tip of the stethoscope/screwdriver against a timing belt component to make sure it's not a loose tensioner. It might be keeping tension with the engine off, but getting loose while running. Also, are you running oem coil packs?
OEM packs, no. Could be the issue. I decided to drive her to O Reilly's to get the codes read. No knocking on the way there. However, just as I parked, the plastic tubing on the raditor that the hose connects to just broke, spewing coolant everywhere. I thought it was a head gasket at first. Glad it's not, but I'm currently stranded.
Could be coincidence that it broke, but you should do a block tester just to be sure. You can probably pick it up at an auto shop or amazon for very cheap.
Could be coincidence that it broke, but you should do a block tester just to be sure. You can probably pick it up at an auto shop or amazon for very cheap.
I think it was coincidence. The tip that the hose slides onto broke off. Perhaps the clamp wasn't fully on and was sitting on the tip. Either way, I got some water in the radiator and drove it off. It got close to overheating, very close. I hope there isn't any damage. I need to drain that water ASAP.
On another note, CEL codes are P0325 & P0505; Knock sensor and IACV. I just replaced the knock sensor Sunday. Are they different between the J32 and J35? Maybe the plug came off. I will check that.
IACV might just be old and have gone bad. I'll give it a test. This would explain the RPM fluctuations. The knock sensor would explain the pre detonation.
You can use a mechanic's stethoscope or just a screwdriver to find exactly where the noise is coming from. Place the tip of the stethoscope/screwdriver against a timing belt component to make sure it's not a loose tensioner. It might be keeping tension with the engine off, but getting loose while running. Also, are you running oem coil packs?
Thefireball, I agree with Karanx7 and his suggestion regarding a loose tensioner.
In addition, perhaps the (blue arrow) #6 timing belt adjuster pulley is hitting against an unreleased tensioner plunger?
It's a silly question, and I don't mean to be insulting; however, can you confirm if you pulled the 'pin' on the TB tensioner?
I only ask because, when I hit the TB adjuster pulley against the (yellow arrow) unreleased tensioner plunger (picture below) the sound is pronounced much like the sound in your video.
Maybe the TB adjuster pulley is 'flapping' around within the TB cover as the TB spins?
Also, you took the #9 auto adjuster collar, that fits at / within the blue arrow, when you did the TB component swap? Torqued to 19lb-ft.
Just throwing 'stuff' out there.
Originally Posted by Thefireball
Are they different between the J32 and J35? Maybe the plug came off. I will check that.
wow, non stop issues. way to stay in the fight.
coincidently my radiator broke at the upper neck recently too. i got one off amazon for about a third of what local part store wanted.
I only ask because, when I hit the TB adjuster pulley against the (yellow arrow) unreleased tensioner plunger (picture below) the sound is pronounced much like the sound in your video.
Maybe the TB adjuster pulley is 'flapping' around within the TB cover as the TB spins?
Also, you took the #9 auto adjuster collar, that fits at / within the blue arrow, when you did the TB component swap? Torqued to 19lb-ft.
I can confirm that everything you mentioned has been done correctly. From the torqueing of the pulley bolt, to pulling the pin. Everytime I pull that pin, it ends up with my hand slamming against the wall of the car. I've still got some wounds from having to do, undo, do, undo that multiple times.
Originally Posted by 619rcr
wow, non stop issues. way to stay in the fight.
coincidently my radiator broke at the upper neck recently too. i got one off amazon for about a third of what local part store wanted.
It's probably just an age thing then. Only half of the tip broke on mine. There's still plenty of room for the clamp to be seated on. I'll still be replacing that in the future anyhow.
So, after checking the knock sensor, the plug was not seated all the way down. At one point, after I had gotten done putting everything back together, there was a plug left unplug. It's the one right behind the power steering pump, in the same sheathing as the knock sensor. I struggled to get it plugged in, and I probably yanked the knock sensor plug at the same time. The clip on the knock sensor clip is broken off, so it can just slip right off. I'll have to replace that later too. I also checked and cleaned the IACV. I can confirm that it is working, but it might be dying. The motor is now.. well working; normally. No knocking, no weird noises. It sounds happy and normal. It is missfiring however, and I believe that it is due to the fuel injectors on Cylinder 2 & 3 not being seated properly. #2 is leaking a lot of gasoline, and #3 is leaking a small amount. I did struggle to get them back in the rail. On the other hand, I am having a slight rev hang from 2k to 1k. It revs up and sounds perfect, but when it's coming back down, it gets to 2k RPMs, and very slowly drops back down. It's doing what it did before I had the P2R bracket for the IACV. So i'm guessing it is actually going bad and I need a new one.
So, my new to do list:
1. Flush out all of the water from the radiator with fresh coolant
2. Fix the fuel injector leak
3. Replace the IACV
4. Replace the knock sensor wire
I'll just pull the last two off of a junk car next weekend. My main focusing is to just get it running right now.
05-19-2021, 03:42 AM
To bad we didn't catch that earlier. I see the difference in 2ndgentl's picture in post #13.
