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Any known history on the new j35, as to why the MDX was in the salvage yard?
Junk yard doesn't post anything on it, can't even check the mileage. It had front end damaged; totaled. Engine looked clean and almost new on the dip stick. Under the valve cover looked pretty clean. Intake manifold isn't caked in the EGR passages like most engines, but not perfectly clean.
Time for an update.
All good news on the new motor, try #3. I'll begin putting it in the car either later this morning, or later tonight. Depends on when I wake up.
Who ever owned the MDX that this motor came out of, loved their car. I want to first correct myself on something. I forgot this motor wasn't pulled out of the totaled MDX. We went there planning to do that, but there were two of them sitting in the same row. I got blind sided by the first one we saw. Some one had begun working on this one, but apparently gave up. The bumper was off, and somw other things were missing.
I don't know what was wrong with the car, but my guess is the transmission went out. Not sure if these cars had the same transmission issue as every other Honda V6 within those years considering it has an AWD system in place, but the interior was clean and in really good condition, with little to no body damage. Even the carpets were pretty clean. Maybe they thought the engine was bad because of all the oil leaking through the spark plug gaskets? The alternator was absolutely caked in oil, from top to bottom, side to side.
-The motor itself is in very good condition. The timing was recently serviced, and they replaced every part with genuine Honda parts. The water pump has a Honda logo, spins freely, and looks clean inside. The belt has a Honda logo, and looks almost brand new. Pulleys all looked clean and fairly new as well, but I switched them out with mine anyways, keeping the Honda belt and pump on. I was going to replace the tensioner with my good one that I paid good money for, but after compressing it once, I can easily push the pin in half way like it's nothing. So I reused the one that was on the motor originally; couldn't even push the pin at all.
-I replaced the oil pan with my painted one since high mileage J's tend to have a bad gasket and leak from there. I was right; the original oil pan came off like it was nothing, same for the gasket material.
-I couldn't get the rod end caps off as I lost my socket for the bolts, but the rods only move side to side by only .06mm max. No up & down movement what so ever.
-I got to peak at the cylinder walls, and they look really clean. No black rings at the very bottom of them, except for one, and it's very short and half of it is not there. The cross hatching is very very visible as well, almost like it's been freshly honed recently. Little bit of wear on the side skirts, but nothing to be worried about.
-Now to the valves. Everything was in time, so no bent valves. Can't do a proper compression test by hand, and my tester broke. But I put 1 spark plug in at a time and checked for compression by feel. Every cylinder had fight to it, except for cylinders 4 & 5. Inspecting them, they had some crud on them. Air leaked past them. So I cleaned them with some carb cleaner, picked at them, cleaned again, and so on. Now every cylinder had some fight that requires me to put some strength into turning the crank, so compression is good.
I am slightly worried about one thing though. The MDX was clearly at a beach, being that there was sand in the middle of the motor. I think some may have gotten into the cylinder head, but it could have been carbon. I don't know what I can do to clean them without removing the heads, so I'll do an oil change within the first 100 miles, in hopes that if there is any sand, it'll get caught in the filter. It'll also give the motor some time to reawaken because who knows how long it's sat.
The motor I destroyed will be getting rebuilt, and I'll be turning it into a J37. I'll be making a thread for that either when I bore out the block, or have some of the parts ready for it. I have an idea as to what happened with it, and it wasn't just because I redlined it, but that's the main reason. I think it also had to do with the wearing of the new parts releasing enough metal into the oil, clogging the filter, and starving the rod bearings when at a higher RPM. Car sat for 8 hours at my job, cooled off, and the damage begun when I drove it cold. Had I changed the oil before the race, I might have been okay. Oh well, what's happened has happened. Can't wait to have a J37.
I might be an idiot, but at least I'm persistent.
Last edited by Thefireball; 04-28-2022 at 04:18 AM.
Gotta say your persistence is more than I would have in the same position. I'm hesistant to just drop a junk yard motor in. Although I did recently take a gamble on a 20+ yr H23a bluetop for my prelude, so can't say I blame you for grabbing an apparent good find.
Gotta say your persistence is more than I would have in the same position. I'm hesistant to just drop a junk yard motor in. Although I did recently take a gamble on a 20+ yr H23a bluetop for my prelude, so can't say I blame you for grabbing an apparent good find.
What can I say, I love the CL. Never selling it.
I just wish I could get this over with so I can start saving money for other things. Manual swap still needs to be done, and i'm interested in working on another car. Maybe a Miata, maybe a Geo Metro, maybe take a loan out for a cappuccino. I want something small, and preferably 3 cylinders.
The grind doesn't stop until my CL is fixed.
Well, the new engine works. Got a CEL on the way to the event. Scanned it, and it came back to a bad O2 sensor. Car still drove fine though. I disconnected the battery and it's gone for now.
Snuck me and my girl's car in to the event.
Hardly any J's, kind of dissapointing. Only 2 3rd gen TLs that are lowered, a 4th gen TLX that's lowered, and an older square body accord with a J35A4 swap.
So, hopefully this motor last me, and this is the end of this thread.
Only when you show a few vids displaying tachometer runs, first through third gear, with that suite new J35A3.
Soon™
I want to drive this for a bit before I go abusing it. I definitely will when I feel confident it'll be fine. Maybe do an oil change at 100 miles just to make sure everything is clean.
^
Did you say you swapped the Type-S heads and/or cams into this latest J35A3?
Type S cams using J35A3 heads.
I got a feel for the torque last night when it was raining. Got stuck behind some one doing 20mph on a sharp turn on the highway. Once it straightened out, they immediately merged to the left, and I hit the pedal maybe a quarter of the way, and I was torque steering to the right, then I let off, and it torque steered to the left. I was just trying to get to the speed limit; too used to the stock TL.
I've gotta play with the throttle cable & TPS to settle some things with the idle, but it's been good so far. But strangely, it feels slower than the J32, but it certainly isn't when my girl decided to go for a short sprint against me on the highway coming home from the event.
Type S cams using J35A3 heads.
I got a feel for the torque last night when it was raining. Got stuck behind some one doing 20mph on a sharp turn on the highway. Once it straightened out, they immediately merged to the left, and I hit the pedal maybe a quarter of the way, and I was torque steering to the right, then I let off, and it torque steered to the left. I was just trying to get to the speed limit; too used to the stock TL.
On a similar note, I drive the automatic CL project car more (because old ) as a 'beater' around town and such. It's a nice heavy cruiser.
When I do take the S/C'd CL out, I forget just how much more power & throttle response there is available, especially when it rains.
On a similar note, I drive the automatic CL project car more (because old ) as a 'beater' around town and such. It's a nice heavy cruiser.
When I do take the S/C'd CL out, I forget just how much more power & throttle response there is available, especially when it rains.
I can't wait to super charge mine. I want the M90 sticking out of the hood and everything. My power goal is going to try and be 500hp, but I'll take 450hp. Have to manual swap first, then AEM ECU, then I can get the adapter plate and stick the S/C on. I already have the M90 that I pulled from a junk car, so it's just sitting now. $70 for it. I don't think I'll be putting it on this J35 though, since I don't exactly know what condition this motor is in, so it'll be saved for the J37 once I get started on that.
6 speed swap first though.
Nope. Plan on ordering one off of car-parts. Going to be anywhere from $1200-$2000, then $1000 for the aem ECU, then $900 for the M90 adapter plate. About the same price as a comptech S/C.
Nope. Plan on ordering one off of car-parts. Going to be anywhere from $1200-$2000, then $1000 for the aem ECU, then $900 for the M90 adapter plate. About the same price as a comptech S/C.
So how does that work & what would be included for $1200-2000?
At a minimum, you'd need the discontinued transmission mounting beam and both trans mounts. The discontinued rear engine mount bracket?
If you wanted to run the front & rear discontinued engine mount dampers, you'd need the discontinued six speed front cross beam.
Engine harness; manual trans & shifter with cables, parking brake handle; cup holder; instrument cluster on and on.
that's cool, I tend to go one phase at a time too. what year is the TL you picked up? is that one auto too?
2004, auto as well. Funny enough, some one on Instagram on the J series only page was selling a manual transmission for the 3g for $1600. I was kind of blown away, because that's more expensive than some of the ones I've seen for our cars.
Originally Posted by zeta
So how does that work & what would be included for $1200-2000?
At a minimum, you'd need the discontinued transmission mounting beam and both trans mounts. The discontinued rear engine mount bracket?
If you wanted to run the front & rear discontinued engine mount dampers, you'd need the discontinued six speed front cross beam.
Engine harness; manual trans & shifter with cables, parking brake handle; cup holder; instrument cluster on and on.
I might just try and buy a whole donor car off of FB marketplace to be honest. They come and go, and sometimes people are just parting out, so I might get lucky. I'll make a 2 or 3 hour drive for it.
For the mounts though, are there not any aftermarket sites selling them? I'm surprised P2R doesn't make them, but maybe I just missed it?
I'll figure out what to do when I get there. Main focus is just getting the transmission itself first.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-04-2022 at 08:50 PM.
Nevermind the 3g comment. Apparently the 6 speed for our cars are going for $2k and above. But apparently, at least one is for a full swap with the engine paired to it.
^
I observed that as well when I performed my search, that's why I asked 'how does that work'.
Even though Discount Auto Salvage in NJ(Newark) exclaims that they have a 'complete swap' (for whatever $$ they state on the call) the best way to CYA is to have a complete inventory list, on hand, as to what one would need if this route was depended on.
Moreover, my experience with some of these characters, often located in very rough / shady parts of cities, is that you do not assume they have your best interests at heart, just saying. Especially for the chunk of change involved.
Originally Posted by Thefireball
I might just try and buy a whole donor car off of FB marketplace to be honest. They come and go, and sometimes people are just parting out, so I might get lucky. I'll make a 2 or 3 hour drive for it.
FB marketplace is a good place to start as well.
Another one to monitor would be the link below. I've seen a few 03 Sixer's pop up occasionally; however, you may have to drive. Salvage Cars For Sale (erepairables.com)
Originally Posted by Thefireball
For the mounts though, are there not any aftermarket sites selling them? I'm surprised P2R doesn't make them, but maybe I just missed it? I'll figure out what to do when I get there. Main focus is just getting the transmission itself first.
Besides you have a perfect example of what you need in your girls CL-S6 right outside.
Just compare and contrast your auto against her sixer to get your list ready.
As you already know, alot of the 'list' work has already been done for you, on the 2G TL side, now, though, it's just a question of 'stuff' being readily available, if at all.
A donor car makes it all easier.
^
I observed that as well when I performed my search, that's why I asked 'how does that work'.
Even though Discount Auto Salvage in NJ(Newark) exclaims that they have a 'complete swap' (for whatever $$ they state on the call) the best way to CYA is to have a complete inventory list, on hand, as to what one would need if this route was depended on.
Moreover, my experience with some of these characters, often located in very rough / shady parts of cities, is that you do not assume they have your best interests at heart, just saying. Especially for the chunk of change involved.
FB marketplace is a good place to start as well.
Another one to monitor would be the link below. I've seen a few 03 Sixer's pop up occasionally; however, you may have to drive. Salvage Cars For Sale (erepairables.com)
Besides you have a perfect example of what you need in your girls CL-S6 right outside.
Just compare and contrast your auto against her sixer to get your list ready.
As you already know, alot of the 'list' work has already been done for you, on the 2G TL side, now, though, it's just a question of 'stuff' being readily available, if at all.
A donor car makes it all easier.
I just have to hope I find a totaled 6 speed CL with the transmission still intact. No point in buying another CL that's in between condition than mine.
Saving up the money for one will take sometime. Don't exactly have the best paying job, plus bills and such. I'm going to be doing some cheaper cosmetic stuff first. There's a site selling aftermarket TL ASPEC kits that I want to throw onto my car. I need a new rear bumper since mine has a large crack that I've already tried to repair 3 times. Keeps breaking through the epoxy, and breaking through the primer & paint. Then I can finally finish wrapping my car, and then further modifications. That's assuming this motor doesn't go bye-bye sooner than expected.
After cosmetics, I want to throw on some coil overs, and maybe some new wheels. Also forgot I need to replace a ball joint and tie rods; boots are cracked/torn. No noises or issues with the suspension so far, but one of my spare tires I had on has noticeably more wear on the inside of the tire than the outer portion.
Lots to do, but I enjoy the work. Gives me something to do, because when I have nothing to do, I go looking for issues on my cars so I do have something to work on.
Also have some things I need to work out with the TL. Got a misfire that randomly pops up when driving that happens for a few seconds, throwing a CEL, then randomly goes away for a week or two. Need to get it prepared to drive from TN to Florida, and back. That'll be done next check.
I'll just be enjoying my CL as is for now.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-04-2022 at 09:49 PM.
P2R may be making the transmission mounting beam or even the trans. mounts for $$$.
P2R does make a replacement trans beam, its billet IIRC. I actually thought about ordering one, but I dropped a lot of money recently on other parts.
Originally Posted by Thefireball
I might just try and buy a whole donor car off of FB marketplace to be honest. They come and go, and sometimes people are just parting out, so I might get lucky. I'll make a 2 or 3 hour drive for it.
For the mounts though, are there not any aftermarket sites selling them? I'm surprised P2R doesn't make them, but maybe I just missed it?.
My old supervisor picked up a crashed 06 TL 6spd off craigslist for about 1600. Funny I saw it before he did, but at the time I had too many cars.
I got innovative motor mounts off Swapshopracing, 85A i beleive You don't need the front and rear shocks from the 6spd if you run good aftermarket mounts. For trans mounts, generic ones should be fine, it really just supports the weight.
Interesting, you've seen similar shaped mounts that would replace the innards of #5 & 6 or their entirety?
False alarm, i had seen rockauto listing some under manual transmission mounts, but they appear to be the auto trans mounts. my bad.
Knowing that there are no off the shelf alternatives makes me think i should poly fill my oems.
CEL came on again while driving home tonight.
P0132 again, along with P1399; same one that popped up at the event. I removed it by disconnecting the battery that day, and it just now came back.
Wondering if the wire for the O2 sensor became damaged in the process of removing/installing the engine(s), or if coolant getting on it damaged it.. Cold starts, it'll idle low:
Fresh picture from today when it was idling. Revving it for a few seconds seems to fix this. I kept thinking it was the IACV when the previous motor was in the car before I killed it. There's also a noticeable 'burbling' sound coming from the exhaust when I do rev it to fix this issue, almost like it's throwing gas into the engine and igniting it, but it's getting filtered through the cat. Even though I fix the idling issue, there's a noticeable lack of power when first driving, almost like it wants to stall. But getting on the road makes it go away, once it warms up. All signs point to a bad O2 sensor.
Only reason I'm saying all this is just to make it easier on me. Which O2 sensor is this? Before or after the cat? The O2 sensor before the cat is still relatively new. It was replaced not to long before the J32 blew. Can't imagine it went bad that quickly.
CEL came on again while driving home tonight.
P0132 again, along with P1399; same one that popped up at the event. I removed it by disconnecting the battery that day, and it just now came back.
Wondering if the wire for the O2 sensor became damaged in the process of removing/installing the engine(s), or if coolant getting on it damaged it.. Cold starts, it'll idle low:
Fresh picture from today when it was idling. Revving it for a few seconds seems to fix this. I kept thinking it was the IACV when the previous motor was in the car before I killed it. There's also a noticeable 'burbling' sound coming from the exhaust when I do rev it to fix this issue, almost like it's throwing gas into the engine and igniting it, but it's getting filtered through the cat. Even though I fix the idling issue, there's a noticeable lack of power when first driving, almost like it wants to stall. But getting on the road makes it go away, once it warms up. All signs point to a bad O2 sensor.
Only reason I'm saying all this is just to make it easier on me. Which O2 sensor is this? Before or after the cat? The O2 sensor before the cat is still relatively new. It was replaced not to long before the J32 blew. Can't imagine it went bad that quickly.
The upstream o2 is for feedback and fuel trim, the downstream one is to verify the cat is working. I'd make sure you didnt pull any wires out of the 02 disconnect plugs. You should also make sure the 02 sensor end is clean. Running too rich can foul the sensor and cause it to react slow like you mention. p1399 is for random misfire, which would make sense. good luck.
Replaced O2 sensor yesterday. No CEL now, things still aren't 100% fixed. Besides my friend saying I have a bad wheel bearing, which I'll be ordering a new one with all the other suspension parts, the car still.. is shooting gasoline into the exhaust. Not nearly as much before.
On the way home from the junkyard after helping my friend pull a B20 for his Del Sol, I was accelerating after the light turned green, and it had a quick misfire, followed by gas popping in the exhaust. It's only done this once since putting in the new O2 sensor.
On top of that, it still idles really low upon a cold start. I can also feel a slight rumbling or shaking when idling. It's at certain cylinder. It's smooth, then rumbles, then smooth, so it's definitely a pattern.
Considering I did a compression test and had lower PSI on cylinders 4 & 5, and there was compression leaking out of the exhaust valves, I'm wondering if some valves are bad, or if there is a stuck open injector.
And just now as I was typing this with my car idling, my engine just shook very hard for a second, then went to normal. Something is up. Any ideas as to what to look for?
A lot of variables with the swaps and mods. Could do process of elimination with spare parts from old motors. Have extra coils & plugs?
After having 4 motors, I have so many coil packs, spark plugs, and fuel injectors. I'm starting to think it might be worn out spark plugs, but it could also be a bad fuel injector. I did buy rebuilt ones off of eBay last year for this car.
I did notice yesterday when I did a pull to redline from 3rd to 4th, right as I shifted gears, it misfired a bunch and dumped a lot of gas into the exhaust. You could hear the popping from the exhaust, but it wasn't loud because of the cat filtering. I'm thinking it's a fuel issue because there's supposed to be a fuel cut off on the autos when the gears switch, and I know when the gears shift because I drive almost exclusively in sport shift mode.
On another note, I just did my first real pull in 2nd gear all the way up to 100, and wow, this thing has so much torque. Did not take me long to get to 100 from a 20 roll. It didn't misfire though, so this issue seems to have a mind of it's own. No CEL for it either.
I had a bad coil that (was brand new ) and only showed up when the car was idling...everything's running smooth at idle? easiest to check at the exhaust as you'll hear/feel an occasional "puff" every now and then.
Last edited by whitetiger5; 05-11-2022 at 12:53 PM.
I had a bad coil that (was brand new ) and only showed up when the car was idling...everything's running smooth at idle? easiest to check at the exhaust as you'll hear/feel an occasional "puff" every now and then.
It's strange.. cold start, it'll go up to 1k RPMs as soon as I turn the key. Then it'll go down to 750rpms at idle for a second, then drop down to like 300 or 400rpms. Trying to drive away, it kind of drops even lower until the car moves, almost like it wants to die. But the idling is all fixed once it's warmed. The misfiring issue comes and go. It's been really hot here lately, and I had no misfire or dumping gas issues. But my gas mileage is still terrible. As I mentioned before. The misfiring and dumping of gas seems to be when I accelerate. But that night I redlined and shifted, you could hear all the popping coming out of the exhaust, almost as if it didn't cut the fuel when it shifted.
I haven't done any testing. Been trying to fix my sleep, and I have to fix my girl's exhaust leak, then then the TL's AC Compressor. I figure if it's a bad fuel injector, I'll just prime the fuel pump with the IM off, and check each port in the runners, and see if any are leaking. Spark plugs, I might just replace them all with another set. Might do the same for coil packs.
Well, fuel injectors aren't leaking. When I was putting everything back together with the electronics on, I was moving my IACV around, and it was vibrating. I had a spare lying around, and I plugged it in, and it wasn't vibrating when plugged in.
The idle is normal now. Not sure about the misfiring or fuel issue yet, but I imagine the IACV might have had something to do with it.
Feels great. Haven't had an issue since swapping the IACV. Idles at about 500rpms with the AC on though. At least the AC works. No fuel or misfire issues. I say the car is fixed.
Now I just gotta fix this wheel bearing that should be here soon, and then at a later date, buy everything to completely redo the suspension. Lot of worn & cracked boots on ball joints & tie rods.
I can't go a week without issues, and this is a strange one. The car has been fine all week, until yesterday.
Went down to the junkyard yesterday to get some parts. Got stuck in stand still traffic there and back, and it was hot, very hot.
Getting there was fine, leaving was fine. It wasn't until I went to accelerate around a car, that it started misfiring and sputtering before I could even hit VTEC.
I got home, immediately checked the codes. Just a single one; P1399, random misfire. I tried pulling every coil pack one by one, all are working. I pulled each sensor off the throttle one by one. Only the IACV didn't make a difference. Pulling the MAP sensor messed up the idle, causing it to need to be relearned and making my RPMs at idle go up and down.
Here's the weird thing; it went away. I let the car cool down for about 2 hours and drove it again. Then again after another 2 hours, and did a bit of 'spirited driving', and it ran perfectly fine. No misfires are anything. Even hit VTEC, and redlined it once just to test; no problems what so ever. The car never even hits the middle line on the gauge, so it wasn't over heating. But the engine was very hot to the touch.
This is clearly a fuel issue, but I don't know what to look for. I'm guessing the intense heat in traffic caused something to malfunction? Maybe the fuel pump is going out, or maybe the gasoline in the tank just got so hot and needed to be vented? I have no clue what to look for. Maybe the air filter on my intake is filthy and needs to be cleaned, causing a bad AFR?
Also filled the tank up Monday. Hit 200 miles today, and I'm at a little less than a quarter of a tank left. Light might come on at 260 or 280 miles. So about the same mileage as I got in my J32. It'd be better if I would just slow down, but the car is too much fun on the high way.
Side note, junkyard has a rare gem right now. A 2004 Accord V6 with a manual transmission that hasn't been touched yet. Me and my friends will be going back next weekend to pull it. Not sure if I want to put it into the TL, or sell it though. The TL is me and my girl's daily that we can relax in. Not sure how much I want to modify it. Once I manual swap the CL, we might want an auto we can just cruise around in from time to time. It'll just sit in the garage for a bit until I decide what to do.
Now, they just need to bring in a manual CL so I can take it. Like that'll ever happen.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-15-2022 at 03:11 PM.
There is a CL-S swap package pulled from a 2003 CL 6 speed with ~150k miles, on facecreep 'Acura TL/CL 2nd Gen Page', out of WAYNESVILLE, OH for $2k.
Driven to Cincinnati before; not that long of a drive. I don't have $2k at the moment; part of the reason it's going to take a bit of time. I'm a broke bitch lmao.
Appreciate the info though. I'll hit you up in a PM when it comes time for me to start searching for one.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-15-2022 at 05:15 PM.
fuel level definitely could have been a factor to fuel vaporizing or line cavitation. the pump is toward the front of the tank, so agressive acceleration could also make it cavitate. remember fuel is not only for feeding the engine, it also cools and lubricates the pump.
It's already 100F + where im at so and I try to never have less than a 1/4 tank. my prelude sometimes doesnt even like to start with 1/8 tank. but its super old and the guage is prob off.
fuel level definitely could have been a factor to fuel vaporizing or line cavitation. the pump is toward the front of the tank, so agressive acceleration could also make it cavitate. remember fuel is not only for feeding the engine, it also cools and lubricates the pump.
It's already 100F + where im at so and I try to never have less than a 1/4 tank. my prelude sometimes doesnt even like to start with 1/8 tank. but its super old and the guage is prob off.
I've had problems with the pump in the past. One died on me on the way to work once. Was stuck at an intersection and had people help me push it into a gas station. I replaced it the next day, then it died again a week later and I replaced it in a FedEx parking lot.
Needless to say, I have a couple spare ones lying around. I don't know if it was the pumps that were bad, or the plugs or electrical connections. This was before I replaced the ECU with another because it had a constant CEL that would never go away no matter if I fixed the issue. Thankfully, programming the new ECU was only $100.
I'm also wondering if the fuel pressure regulator might be going out. I usually relieve pressure by turning the fuel hose screw portion, whatever it's called. Last time I did it, the thing wouldn't budge, and the portion that actually screws into the block came out.
Last edited by Thefireball; 05-15-2022 at 07:35 PM.
When you have time, I would check the connections at the pump to power and to ground. wiggle the plug around while you check voltage and make sure the recessed pins are tight fitting to the pump. A volt drop test on the power wire to the main relay could also tell you if you have high resistance from corrosion.
I ran a 16ga power line from my battery to the main relay with an inline 20a fuse, after several episodes where my car stalled. Turned out to be a short in the harness that was blowing an underhood fuse. The stock wires are not that thick maybe 20 ga or 18 at the most.
Think I know what you mean about the hardware on the fuel feed not breaking loose. I've had similar experience with AEM fuel rails. I attribute the issue to the rail being aluminum, whereas the hardware is steel. There's probably a torque spec somewhere.
When you have time, I would check the connections at the pump to power and to ground. wiggle the plug around while you check voltage and make sure the recessed pins are tight fitting to the pump. A volt drop test on the power wire to the main relay could also tell you if you have high resistance from corrosion.
I ran a 16ga power line from my battery to the main relay with an inline 20a fuse, after several episodes where my car stalled. Turned out to be a short in the harness that was blowing an underhood fuse. The stock wires are not that thick maybe 20 ga or 18 at the most.
Think I know what you mean about the hardware on the fuel feed not breaking loose. I've had similar experience with AEM fuel rails. I attribute the issue to the rail being aluminum, whereas the hardware is steel. There's probably a torque spec somewhere.
I'll get around to checking the pump connectors after coming back from Florida. Got the exhaust fixed on my girl's CL, just need to see how long the copper gasket maker will last on those flanges. Now I need to replace the field coil on the TL's AC before we go. I got two from the junkyard, and those snap rings are a pain in the ass to get off, but doable. Still also have to build my friend his B20 VTEC for boost. He's not wanting to sleeve it because it's hard to justify $2k on sleeves when he doesn't even race or redline, so we're deciding on what to do. Lots on my plate.
Here's the pictures of what I was talking about:
It's missing the cap that goes on the end of the thread, but yellow is where I would turn it to relieve pressure before removing the rails & injectors. But it won't budge anymore. It's turning at the red arrow, out of that little block that mounts to the side of the head.
The last time I tried to fix this, I just completely removed it, and took two vice grips and loosened up the yellow portion. Then when I put it all back on, it got stuck again and it won't come off anymore. I'm wondering if the holes for the fuel line aren't lining up, or if the pressure regulator might have been damaged. I've got a spare block/regulator I can throw on if need be.
Also, fuel light came on at 250miles. Put in a full tank yesterday, and I'm now taking it easy on the car to see what kind of gas mileage I can get this time around. Doing the speed limit, not hitting VTEC, no redlining, no racing. The car has been loving it so far. No issues thus far, and it was really smooth last night when it was cooler out. Hopefully it'll stay that way for this entire tank of gas so I can start focusing on my J37 build plans once I finish up my friend's build.
Did you say you swapped the Type-S heads and/or cams into this latest J35A3?
Originally Posted by Thefireball
Type S cams using J35A3 heads.
Just curious, Thefireball, since you swapped the Type-S cams, from your partially disassembled J32A2 heads, is it possible for you to post a picture(s) of the actual J32A2 lost motion assembly (14820-ZY3-405)?
If it involves any further disassembly of a J32A2 head, don't sweat it.
I just could not find an internet picture and wanted to compare the two.
It appears that Acura has superseded the part number above with (14820-P8F-A01) that now looks like the picture below:
Originally Posted by JarrettLauderdale
Second, since this engine was only produced in 2001 and 2002, it uses the old lost motion assemblies in the valve train. The 2003 engines used an updated design that even the lower-end engines received. As my J32A2 is from a 2003 CLS6, it will utilize the revised LMAs.
I'm just wondering if the latest (14820-P8F-A01) LMA's, pictured above, are a further improvement since the design changed and this is what Acura is currently selling should one need replacements?
04-23-2022, 09:08 PM
) as a 'beater' around town and such. It's a nice heavy cruiser.
especially when it rains.
