BRAKEMOTIVE Drilled & Slotted Brake Kits - LOWEST PRICES EVER!
#921
Advanced
I did what you recommended in your post #137.
Thanks.
Catalin
IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
#922
Pro
@DatDereTL - It seems like the sound that you are hearing, is like a whirring type noise. This would be a typical noise you hear with the drilled and slotted rotors when braking from any speeds.
@Mondo375 - Direct checkout sent!
@85iroc - I have the front and rear drilled and slotted rotors available for $190.00 shipped, or the front and rear drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads available for $200.00 shipped until the end of this month as a special.
@Mondo375 - Direct checkout sent!
@85iroc - I have the front and rear drilled and slotted rotors available for $190.00 shipped, or the front and rear drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads available for $200.00 shipped until the end of this month as a special.
#924
Advanced
It could be as simple as a stuck piston or a faulty installed pad.
The following users liked this post:
DatDereTL (03-26-2012)
#926
Hello, I just ordered a four wheel set from Ebay $184, 2005 MDX. Could I have gotten a better deal here? Can't wait to get them on. Plan to paint the calipers red and the rotor hub black. Ps Acura dealer quoted $532.
#929
Holla At Ya Boy
iTrader: (4)
i would like to get a set of front and rear rotors for the acurazine member price. I have a 05 base 6spd brembo equipped 3G TL. Can you please give me a price for the rotors with rear brake pads. I purchased a set of your front pads from a forum member that was shipped the Brembo pads by mistake. If PM is the best way, please do so. Thanks
#931
Advanced
#933
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ i think the lightest rotors are RB 2 piece rotors....they are around 4-5 lbs lighter than stock....others are pretty much the same weight !!!
#934
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
^^^ correct.. most two piece rotors are 4-5lbs lighter.. only one I found for 3G TL is the RB one ..
I ended up getting Sean's setup because most rotors are the same weight.. or within 0.x of it... from everything I read pads are what is key.. I know some rotors they have certain vain technology that might help keep it cooler (very few have different vain technology by the way).. but I dont track the car nor am i willing to pay for "might" help
I did take a look at the RB 2 piece though but at $500 for just front rotors... chose to get 4 rotors and pads for $200
but again I dont track and the $200 package will save my life just as much as the $500 set
Brakemotive got good products and great customer service
I ended up getting Sean's setup because most rotors are the same weight.. or within 0.x of it... from everything I read pads are what is key.. I know some rotors they have certain vain technology that might help keep it cooler (very few have different vain technology by the way).. but I dont track the car nor am i willing to pay for "might" help
I did take a look at the RB 2 piece though but at $500 for just front rotors... chose to get 4 rotors and pads for $200
but again I dont track and the $200 package will save my life just as much as the $500 set
Brakemotive got good products and great customer service
#936
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ correct.. most two piece rotors are 4-5lbs lighter.. only one I found for 3G TL is the RB one ..
I ended up getting Sean's setup because most rotors are the same weight.. or within 0.x of it... from everything I read pads are what is key.. I know some rotors they have certain vain technology that might help keep it cooler (very few have different vain technology by the way).. but I dont track the car nor am i willing to pay for "might" help
I did take a look at the RB 2 piece though but at $500 for just front rotors... chose to get 4 rotors and pads for $200
but again I dont track and the $200 package will save my life just as much as the $500 set
Brakemotive got good products and great customer service
I ended up getting Sean's setup because most rotors are the same weight.. or within 0.x of it... from everything I read pads are what is key.. I know some rotors they have certain vain technology that might help keep it cooler (very few have different vain technology by the way).. but I dont track the car nor am i willing to pay for "might" help
I did take a look at the RB 2 piece though but at $500 for just front rotors... chose to get 4 rotors and pads for $200
but again I dont track and the $200 package will save my life just as much as the $500 set
Brakemotive got good products and great customer service
i am actually happy coz everything in that order lasted me 5 years and still going strong....
but i do see how a car drives before getting anything....i drive spirited and pedal feel is very very important to me....not as much on my wife's lexus...so for he i ended up getting everything from Advance Auto Parts for like $150....(it was 205 and used the BIG50 coupon )....did it myself and cudnt be happier
#939
Fast shipment! I got them all corners on the day I got them... Super sore right now haha. I too am having a whirring noise from the rears... But it does not seem to be affecting anything while I'm driving. Stopping power is much much much smoother than the rusted crap I took off. However, my parking brake doesn't work anyemore... I know I probably just néed to adjust it but now? Through the center co sole?
#940
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
uhhh...what?! Did you cut the cable or disconnect something by accident?!! You're adding a rotor with more inner material, if anything it should be tighter, not non existent.
But yes, to get it tighter, remove the rear part of the center console and tighten up the bolts.
J.
J.
But yes, to get it tighter, remove the rear part of the center console and tighten up the bolts.
J.
J.
#941
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
Fast shipment! I got them all corners on the day I got them... Super sore right now haha. I too am having a whirring noise from the rears... But it does not seem to be affecting anything while I'm driving. Stopping power is much much much smoother than the rusted crap I took off. However, my parking brake doesn't work anyemore... I know I probably just néed to adjust it but now? Through the center co sole?
uhhh...what?! Did you cut the cable or disconnect something by accident?!! You're adding a rotor with more inner material, if anything it should be tighter, not non existent.
But yes, to get it tighter, remove the rear part of the center console and tighten up the bolts.
J.
J.
But yes, to get it tighter, remove the rear part of the center console and tighten up the bolts.
J.
J.
but if you switched all pads and rotors you need to "break-in" the Ebrake....yes....dont look at me like that....below is the post from IHC...if you still wanna adjust the parking brake here are the manual scans.....
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/
Confirm it's the brake by doing the same thing with the brake off.
You can adjust if it's not adjusted correctly but you can also try to break it in. Pull it for a few seconds around 45mph. Do this several times. The shoes can't break in if the brake is only used when the car is stopped. It would be the same as trying to break your new front brakes in by hitting the brakes while sitting at a red light. Mine weren't broken in after 5 years of use until I did this. The brake will become more powerful, you won't have to pull as hard on the lever.
Most drum brakes are self energizing in a forward rotation so they won't be as powerful in reverse. Obviously if you decide to try and break them in, don't lock the rear tires lol.
You can adjust if it's not adjusted correctly but you can also try to break it in. Pull it for a few seconds around 45mph. Do this several times. The shoes can't break in if the brake is only used when the car is stopped. It would be the same as trying to break your new front brakes in by hitting the brakes while sitting at a red light. Mine weren't broken in after 5 years of use until I did this. The brake will become more powerful, you won't have to pull as hard on the lever.
Most drum brakes are self energizing in a forward rotation so they won't be as powerful in reverse. Obviously if you decide to try and break them in, don't lock the rear tires lol.
#942
Okay, thanks! Will try it tomorrow. I also have that buzzing sound from the rears that many of you have... Did it go away over time? Again, it doesn't seem like it affects the braking in any form, just sounds kinda weird...
#944
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
well the buzzing comes from the pads rubbing on the rotors....it should go away once you bed the brakes in
#946
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ correctly !!!
#948
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
Update: Painting the rotors was a total waste of time. All the paint the touches the wheel comes off immediately and because of it takes the zinc coating with it. I have had them on for 2 weeks or so and there are slight signs of rust in some places where the paint came off. Wish I would have saved the time and not painted them and wouldn't have this issue. Not a big deal just annoying since I put that much work into it. If anyone else is thinking about it I advise against it.
The following users liked this post:
rockstar143 (04-05-2012)
#949
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
WOW, It was really nice and humble of you to come on with that warning. Thank you!
I am guessing something about the paint affects the zinc then?! That certainly stinks. I like the black hub look, but I had it on my oems so I didn't do it now...plus, I have black on black car/rims so I enjoy the contrast!
I am guessing something about the paint affects the zinc then?! That certainly stinks. I like the black hub look, but I had it on my oems so I didn't do it now...plus, I have black on black car/rims so I enjoy the contrast!
#950
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ I agree with Jer....it was nice of you to come with a warning....
i painted my rear rotor hub and they have been fine so far i DO NOT have the zinc coating....i have the older Powerslot slotted rotors thow....
i painted my rear rotor hub and they have been fine so far i DO NOT have the zinc coating....i have the older Powerslot slotted rotors thow....
#956
Bird is the Word
I'm reading other forums and people are substituting the rotors for slotted only or blanks. Does BM offer different rotor options for our cars? I'd be interested in a slotted only setup if it's possible.
#959
Bird is the Word
Pretty much. I don't drive my car hard and I'm basically looking to replace my warped stock rotors and squealing pads. Going this route is cheaper than buying blanks, but I want a product that lasts. I'm not buying these as a performance upgrade. I've always grown up thinking drilled rotors are "known" to crack over time.
#960
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
I've heard that too, but I have a feeling the fact that these drilled holes have a beveled edge, will prevent that from happening.
Sean stands behind the product. He says it's guaranteed not to warp. And at $145 shipped, who can argue with that.
Sean stands behind the product. He says it's guaranteed not to warp. And at $145 shipped, who can argue with that.