Ooh, wow.. Thanks for clarifying that. Hrm.. On my Mustangs it dramatically helped all the way around... but I definitely feel the understeer in this car.. I will do just that then!

 

I would add that we are talking about the relative roll stiffness front versus rear. If the full Eibach kit takes this into account and increases the rear roll stiffness by 50% while increasing the front roll stiffness by 15% you may achieve the desired result.

 

ooooooo modz

 

Is the diameter increase any indicator of how stiff the difference will be? I'd assume so right?

I wanna be on the same train!

 

Eibach Anti-Roll Kit for '12 Si
Front: 24mm
Rear: 19mm

OEM '12 Si
Front: 18mm
Rear: 15mm

OEM '13 ILX (2.4/2.0L)
Front: 20mm
Rear: 14mm


It's weird to see how they changed it from the Si To ILX..

 

The post above is why I recommend the eibach bar only for the rear on the ilx. The ilx has a bigger fsb and will only benefit from an rsb...why you think I only ordered an rsb you can see my post on the civic forums.

 

The diameter of the bar isn't the important number, it's the effective rate. The shape/material and the distance between body mount - end link will affect this so just using diameter doesn't tell the whole story.

The posted data is that the rear bar is P1 = 36 N/mm (205 lbs/in) +409%, P2 = 45 N/mm (257 lbs/in) +514% which equates to the new bar is 4 to 5 times stiffer than OE. The front on the other hand is P1 = 26 N/mm (148 lbs/in) +264 %, P2 = 30 N/mm (171 lbs/in) +305 % which is 2.6 to 3 times stiffer.

So from this data it appears you could set the rear on the inner hole and the front on the outer to get closer to the original understeer balance (400% rear 300% front over stock) or move the rear to the inner and front to the outer (500% rear 264% front) to remove as much of the understeer as these will allow.

For something like auto crossing, you should finish braking -before- you turn in and then power out of the turn to use the FWD to help pull the car where you want it to go. Driving like this, you want to try to make the rear tires do a lot more of the cornering work (the front tires have the extra traction load of putting power down plus the weight shifts rearward on acceleration) and is why you want to use a stiff rear bar and a soft front one. This is a less effective way to get around turns as the corner speed increases as you will be in a higher gear with less acceleration. If the car has a hotter motor, it is even more important to take some of the corner load off the front tires. That said, this type setup might work badly on high speed corners where you hold a steady throttle and just "drive smoothly through it" as the car will tend to oversteer which would not be good..

The problem with setting up a car like this for the street becomes, if you go into a corner too hot and are braking too far into the turn (which happens if you don't know the road really well), the rear tires don't have enough down force (braking transfers weight to the front tires) to gave decent grip, the rear tires then lose traction and the back end of the car comes around. This is NOT the same as oversteer with a rear wheel drive car where you can give the car opposite lock steering and power out of it. Doing that will result in a nasty wreck (been there done that). The only way to save it at this point is to apply LOTS of power and hope there is enough front traction to get through the turn. That is a very unnatural reaction and this explains why for safety some understeer on a front wheel drive car is a good idea for most people. There are a lot of compromises that must be made finding the right balance.

 

I need to work on the slow-in-fast-out. I have never been in a critical driving situation with a FWD car.. being that I am used to RWD cars, I wonder if it would be an issue.

I am also wondering what if you moved the rear AND set it to stiff. Then you set the front to soft. Wouldn't that put you at a point where the rear sway bar promoted the oversteer but still allowed the front bar to improve body roll without increasing understeer?

I mean in theory it seems like upgrading both could still be an advantage. If you did "So from this data it appears you could set the rear on the inner hole and the front on the outer to get closer to the original understeer balance (400% rear 300% front over stock) or move the rear to the inner and front to the outer (500% rear 264% front) to remove as much of the understeer as these will allow." like you said. Say if you did set it closer to the OEM steering balance.. wouldn't that still improve body roll due to the stiffer bars?

The danger in 500/264 on the second half is.. I am NOT super experienced with FWD. So, a dire situation like stated could throw me off, being that I am used to RWD. I am still learning FWD techniques.. Even switching lanes at throttle is completely different than a RWD car.

Sorry, I know there is so much to know about suspensions and you can't really say until you test it all.

 

This thread is getting awfully technical, thought this was a general thread for chit-chat.

I'm going to try to hijack the topic. Just got an email debuting the new RLX and features of the "flagship." Does the ILX have the new Acuralink that they're boasting about? Sounds like it might be rolled out on all vehicles in 2014, or maybe a tech package feature.

Thoughts?

http://www.acura.com/future/RLX?SP_R...llsite=true#/6

 

We have some iteration of this on our ILX Tech.

My question is, does it work thru XM/FM or just leverage to Bluetooth connected phone data link? When you read the manuals (imagine that!) it seems to imply that it might be both. We don't have (and don't want) the data/texting feature enabled, but we have XM. XM is used for data transmission in the aviation world, so it could be true for Acuralink. Anybody know for sure?

 

So it's not quite the same version as in the 2014 RLX?

Does it have the iphone app? That seems like a pretty sweet feature, turn on your car with your phone, check fuel/oil from anywhere, schedule maintenance.

 

I don't know that I can defend the ILX anymore.. I drove my buddies 2013 Accord Sport and it's just as nice, if not nicer, just as fast and gets better gas mileage.. Sigh....

Don't think I'll be modifying my car.. Just gonna pay it down and wait for a MMC of the ILX

 

What is MMC?

 

MMC = Minor Model Change. It's the mid-cycle change, usually year 3 or 4 of a 5 year model run.

 

So the new motor won't be for 3 or 4 years?

 

They have not stated an exact date, but they are on record as saying that the ILX will get ED 'as soon as they are ready'. Thus the discussion on whether adding it next year will disenfranchise the current 2.0 owners or bring more new buyers into the fold.

 

Both? It will bring me to buy it and would have pissed me off if I already have.

 

If you haven't bought an ILX I probably wouldn't... get the 2014 whenever it comes.

 

There always seems to be folks who buy something, then dislike it. And There will always be "better" on the horizon so one can "wait" and "wait" or enjoy what you buy now and learn from it. The ILX fits the bill for the majority of the current owners, that is unless they made a very un- informed spur of the moment decision. It doesn't appear the posters here did that though So what is to "defend"?
My ILX Tech is leased, the very high residual is set, and three years is not a long time to have the car. Even then, I have always had lease "Equity" near the end and can easily move to a new car again. Once again, that is the strength of the Honda / Acura name. If boy racing is an intention, why not buy that performance car right from the factory. Look at the 6 cylinder Camaro, Mustangs etc..all over 300 HP out of the box?

If you have grown to dislike the ILX, then trade it! The financial whack will be a lot less than sitting at a computer grinding your chops and causing yourself grief for 3 years.

 

Whatevs

 

Wow, I can hear the air leaking out just like a balloon with a hole in it. If you are now unhappy with your purchase I can see that but moaning about it is not going to make you feel any better.

The Sport model Accord 6mt is $4000.00 less than the ILX 6mt up here and while the Accord has some things the ILX doesn't have the Accord Sport does not have leather, it may or may not be quicker as it is heavier, less hp but does have more torque and yes the epa gas mileage is better. I will say that the leather is sure not worth $4000.00 for sure but I like the smaller ILX and I personally think it looks better than the Accord on the outside.

There is always something that seems to be better coming along so just like deathknight you should have weighed your decision a little longer before jumping into the ILX.

 

The Accord was always / will always be a stronger value prop than the entry-level Acura offerings (TSX and ILX). What you need to realize is that, by your logic, it seems wiser to get a VW Passat or CC than an Audi A4 or A5 as the VW comes with similar / the same features for less money. The bottom line, however, is the Acura and the Accord are vastly different vehicles. Both, in terms of brand and the characteristics of the vehicle.

As a tuner, the Accord will never have the aftermarket support the ILX will have and it is also a much bigger car. In fact, the TSX got a Hondata Flashpro unit, while the 8th gen Accord still doesn't have any tuning available. To the point about size, I love that I can always find parking in the city with the ilx. Also, the ILX looks great and is much better looking than the Accord. And, good luck trying to sell a manual accord and/or trying to find one...those cars are rarer than the bubonic plague.

A final point to consider is that the shopping/dealership experience is wayyyy better at an Acura dealer than a Honda dealer. I love the Acura dealers, the guys there are great...the Honda dealers treat you like another customer. I think if Acura leverages that point of distinction and offers a different customer/brand experience with Hondas, people will begin to migrate into that brand.

By the way, the Nissan Maxima is also a better deal than the Infiniti G37, I wonder why people opt for the Infiniti though?

 

It is what it is. I should say.

I was never comparing the class of vehicles.. I was commenting on the Accord being more luxurious than the ILX, in ways.

I will always prefer a smaller car.. I stand by my previous statements.. but it is disheartening.. you'd be surprised at the interior of the Accord.

No I don't prefer the styling
No I don't prefer the size

But I am not up for arguing about it, it is what it is. I have my car and I like it.

So, in regards to some of the response that I got for that.. whatevs.

 

Merry Christmas!
Everyone be safe in your journeys to family.

 

Honda had to do something to improve on the dud models from 2008/2012. We always have had earlier Accords, our last being some of the best, two 2007s EXLs with Navi. That's when my wife went to the new 09 Civic and I went to the new 10 Maxima. We were totally done with Accords! Then Honda unleashes the restyled 2012 Civic, a decontented mess! I'm very happy Honda sees the light now as evidence by your praise on the Accords, they were so far behind the competition!.

Now if it is about road noise,>> I agree with you . Check out my other entries on my install of Fat Mat or Dyna Mat to the rear seat floors and the whole trunk area. It makes a big difference!. Incidently to take care of any motor noise, I also put in some egg crate type foam under the dash which pretty much tones that rumble down.

 

My brother had an 8th gen accord, what a mess that car was...most pastic-y, cheap, peace of garbage that was. Personally, them improving the 9th gen versions of their cars just shows the positive direction Honda seems to be taking and it will trickle down into their other offerings. I'm satisfied with the ILX enough where I'm not going to bother changing my car....cars are getting like cell phones, something newer and better will always be around the corner.

 

It just threw me off guard when the interior panels themselves were just as good and some of the pieces to me are even BETTER. I was like whaaaaaaaaaat... it's a Honda... And, the road noise is far superior in the Accord..

Sorry, I should clarify.. I don't aim to compare the Accord itself as a value comparison or anything.. I aim to say it's just as luxurious, the handling feels tighter and it has less road noise! The new Accord is better looking but is by no means the styling or anything like that I want.. I want the ILX.. I think now seeing what Honda did to the Accord.. you can only imagine what they may upgrade in the ILX. Which, is good for the company but I was just caught off guard by it.

I will be waiting to see what happens before I do anything spendy.. but I am happy with my car.. but just know.. the 2013 Accords are just as nice on the inside, and some even nicer (I saw the lowly Sport model) than our 2013 Acuras.

I am not griefing so much as I am taken back.

Anyways.. I anticipate it may be back to it's top-of-class awards..

Maybe this means good things for the TLX?

 

Where did you get this foam? That sounds like the material I want to put on the insides of the fender wells. Mercedes & Lexus do something similar.. it's like a high quality foamy pad on the inside of the fender wheel.. it apparently reduces a huge amount of road noise.

 

I got a large sheet of what I call "egg crate" foam when it was used as packing for my large computer tower. They wrapped the whole computer with it. This foam might be 3 inches thick and since is has that "eggcrate" surface on one side, it is a real sound eater! It reminds me of the foam they sometimes use on hospital beds. Just not sure where you would find this off hand.

As many of you know, I used "fatmat" http://fatmat.com as the first sound defense >>applying it to all wheel wells, rear seat floors, and the trunk floor including the spare area, so far. Where possible, I installed this "EC" foam between the side trunk panels and the car body. I used what was left to sandwich up under the dash, being careful not to disturb the wiring etc. As a final touch, I obtained some continuous foam 3/4 in carpet padding (don't use the composite stuff) and cut that to lay over the spare tire area just under the floor flap.
It is worth the trouble! As previously mentioned, this mimics what you would see in many of the Benzes.
If all this seems like something you'd rather not take on, any car stereo shop can do this for you.

 

Good morning all! Hope the holidays have been going / have gone very well.

 

Good morning! Got a much needed jacket for Christmas

Hope everyone had safe and joyous trips to see their families!

The ILX took the 300+ mile winter drive really well! Time for that oil change!

 

I need to plan my oil change. p.s. the gf got me tints for the windows :p

let the modding ensue.

 

Trent will be eating my dust once I get the dp, flashpro, sway and coils on...

 

 

Trent how many inches of snow did ftw get? going to be driving back to Dallas this evening, I hope there's no hidden ice on the roads.

 

The Dynamat is in! Now waiting on dynaliner and some felt I ordered for the fenderwell!

How did she like her gifts by the way??
NOOOOOOOO! Must beat you... must be fastest ILX outside of SEMA hahaha

And, just wait.. I am sandbagging for that Supercharger!

it wasn't that much in Ft. Worth.. Honestly I was in Wichita Falls for 90% of Christmas and it was about 6inches there! It was nice, I got some photos I'll post up later. Just stay aware, drive slower around corners and stuff.. I saw soooo many people slide into curbs and such. And, I wish you a safe journey!

 

She really like the gifts! I got her a bag and a bracelet (the bracelet was on the cheaper end, but it's something she always wanted).

P.s. all that sound deadening is going to weigh you down #ilxwars

 

Marking an appointment to get the rear sway bar and fog lights installed on Friday. Then on Saturday I'll try to get the tints in.

 

That's good to hear, glad she liked them.. figured she would!

HA! The sound deadening is pretty heavy I did some rough guesses between the inner/outer fender wells (dynaliner and felt), all 4 doors, under the spare and backseat and various panels.. it'll be about 75lbs extra! Putting me over the 3,000lb mark

But then I will be adding like 60-70hp would of goodies on the backend so it'll workout AND I'll be cruising quietly.

 

you need to put up a diy...I feel like the sound deadening will work well to make this car feel a bit more solid, well put together.