Well, the TSX needed new wheels....ISF is back (Page 64)

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Old 01-16-2017, 02:22 PM
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Their cam is super fucking aggressive. Really loppy idle.. I mean nasty.
Old 01-16-2017, 02:33 PM
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Yeah that place is no joke. No cams right now. Maybe someday. I am still unsure about cams at all in a daily driven car.

Also some more thoughts on my pulley. I believe the brand to be possibily Innovators West which means they don't make a 2.4in so It might actually be a 2.55in pulley which means during the summer it ran great but once the cooler air came and I put the ehaust on those two together made it run lean.

Thanks for the thread Majofo. Going to read through it. If I have a 2.55 uppper and reason not to do a overdrive lower from a reliability and daily driven standpoint?
Old 01-16-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
Would like to do this on a bit of a budget but don't want to risk reliability. This isn't planned work so all this to repair stuff is coming out of money I have put away for such unrelated car issues but I obviously don't want to empty the stash.
Have you put eyes on the component below lately to check its condition? Might be something to consider, in regards to reliability.

Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
Old 01-16-2017, 02:44 PM
  #1564  
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Originally Posted by Majofo
I think ID1050x is overkill.. check the list:

V2 ---- MODS LIST ---- DYNO NUMBERS (UPDATED)
Well I want to go more later down the road and really don't want to have to buy another set of injectors. The shop I am working with it was their suggestion to just go straight to 1000 rather than messing with 850s and then having to upgrade again. My eventual goal at least in my head for now will be high 600s low 700s. At that point I believe the 1000 are needed.

From reading that list I think here is what I am thinking. Going to put a call into the shop to see what they can quote me for it.

1. FIC1000 or ID1050X injectors
2. LPE Pump
3. JHR Performance Tank
4. 160Tstat
5. Overdrive Bottom
6. Tune

From reading that list that should get me in the high 500 range and fix my current issues as well as not break the bank completely.
Old 01-16-2017, 04:39 PM
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So I have to do some after hours work tonight for work so I went home for an hour and a half and decided to check on the brick. What I saw terrifies me. I am used to seeing pictures of this stuff clean on the forum when people post them up. I have no idea what to think about this. I don't know if it means I have even bigger problems or I just need to get a catch can setup installed.







Also my brick might be collapsed.


And then while putting it back together I did something stupid that I have never done before. I managed to snap a bolt off. I had tested my tq wrench at 44ftlbs. I had completely misread the document I was following and the fact it said in lbs. Now I have to figure out how to extract that broken bolt and rethread the whole. Exactly what I didn't need to have to do.
Old 01-16-2017, 05:08 PM
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Horreee shiettt mang.. Your first mod should be a catch can. The intercooler isn't too bad, but definitely collapsing inward. I can help you with that bolt, I just extracted one this past week.. bitch and a half. Get a double edged extractor. Also get some blue loctite..

Last edited by Majofo; 01-16-2017 at 05:14 PM.
Old 01-16-2017, 05:14 PM
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Compared to the ones rockstar143 posted in his thread, yours are a bit more tainted. Whether that means you have bigger issues

Originally Posted by rockstar143








Old 01-16-2017, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
Horreee shiettt mang.. Your first mod should be a catch can. The intercooler isn't too bad, but definitely collapsing inward. I can help you with that bolt, I just extracted one this past week.. bitch and a half. Get a double edged extractor. Also get some blue loctite..
Absolutely. Going home tonight to research catch can solutions and order one tonight. That is 76k miles worth of oil build up right there.

Yeah I am going to hope the block will survice a little longer while I do some more mods. All though more boost might make it colapse faster.

Explain to me a little bit more about this double edge extractor. Do I drill a hole in the middle of the broken bolt and then use it in reverse to get it out?
Old 01-16-2017, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta
Compared to the ones rockstar143 posted in his thread, yours are a bit more tainted. Whether that means you have bigger issues
Definitely going to have to degreese the entire thing and get it back as shiny and clean looking as I can. Then get a single or double catch can setup cause that is terrible looking and I am sure its terrible for the inside of my engine as well.
Old 01-16-2017, 05:55 PM
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Yeah, punch the bolt then drill. Soak it a bit in pb (overkill) and then tap the extractor in with a hammer. It just needs to catch an edge and then you can unscrew it. A lot easier and more functional than the traditional extractor.
Old 01-16-2017, 08:26 PM
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my next mod will be SM dual catch can... since you have the airaid already, you can mount it inside the filter box...

get the brick fixed and that should help your IAT2s...
Old 01-16-2017, 10:11 PM
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Just found out the gas station just down the street from me has E85.
Freaking 1.30 / gal.

It's like the universe is talking to me..
do it, it's saying.. do eeet.
stfu!

injectors + flex fuel setup.. $600
power adders $?????
tune $??????
KILL KILL KILL
Old 01-17-2017, 06:48 AM
  #1573  
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If I didn't travel so much I would definitely do e85 setup as I have enough stations I could get by locally.
Old 01-17-2017, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
my next mod will be SM dual catch can... since you have the airaid already, you can mount it inside the filter box...

get the brick fixed and that should help your IAT2s...
Is this the once you are talking about? CTS-V2 Racing by WEAPON-X Motorsports ? SMC dual catch cans Any reason that one is better than this one? This one just looks easier to empty out with a removable catch. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85603

Is there a place that fixes the bricks or do I need to just buy a new one? Do the ZL1 lids come with a brick? Am I better off just sucking it up and getting a new lid now with a new brick or is it cheaper if they are fixable?
Old 01-17-2017, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Majofo
Yeah, punch the bolt then drill. Soak it a bit in pb (overkill) and then tap the extractor in with a hammer. It just needs to catch an edge and then you can unscrew it. A lot easier and more functional than the traditional extractor.
Are these what you are talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Rennsteig-Dua.../dp/B009SM2DTW Doesn't seem like they are small enough though. Can't seem to find a smaller kit.
Old 01-17-2017, 07:19 AM
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Damn Jason, I bet you freaked out when you pulled off that cover
Old 01-17-2017, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by CLtotheTL32
Damn Jason, I bet you freaked out when you pulled off that cover
Just a little bit. I was even more unhappy to have to put it back together that way besides wiping out what I could with some towels. I didn't have any degresser I felt safe using on the inside of an engine. I need to get some of that still. Going to be one hell of a project to get it all clean again.
Old 01-17-2017, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey

are the screws on the s/c scorn? the discoloration looks like there might be some contact... or is that just the picture? it should be mostly grey like in Jeremy's photo...
Old 01-17-2017, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
Is this the once you are talking about? CTS-V2 Racing by WEAPON-X Motorsports ? SMC dual catch cans Any reason that one is better than this one? This one just looks easier to empty out with a removable catch. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85603

Is there a place that fixes the bricks or do I need to just buy a new one? Do the ZL1 lids come with a brick? Am I better off just sucking it up and getting a new lid now with a new brick or is it cheaper if they are fixable?
i like the dual setup by design... there shouldn't be that much blowby to where you will have to empty out the catch can often so unclamping a few hoses and a few bolts to get it out is fine with me... the moroso is also a great cc and the other one i would look at is elite engineering (my buddy has this on his z06). they both have removable bottoms...

yes there is a vendor on the vorums that will fix your brick... if you decide to go with a ZL1 lid, the brick does come included and most likely already reinforced...
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
are the screws on the s/c scorn? the discoloration looks like there might be some contact... or is that just the picture? it should be mostly grey like in Jeremy's photo...
I don't know I didn't run my hands across them at all. I am sure lots of things are discolored from all that oil but also I had the phone on HDR Auto so things could be just the picture as well. I will have to check when I open it up to clean it and fix the bolt again.
Old 01-17-2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
i like the dual setup by design... there shouldn't be that much blowby to where you will have to empty out the catch can often so unclamping a few hoses and a few bolts to get it out is fine with me... the moroso is also a great cc and the other one i would look at is elite engineering (my buddy has this on his z06). they both have removable bottoms...

yes there is a vendor on the vorums that will fix your brick... if you decide to go with a ZL1 lid, the brick does come included and most likely already reinforced...
My engine seems to sadly differ about having a lot of blowby. I know that is over 76k miles but still that can't really be normal is it? Maybe I am just over reacting to seeing that the way it is but it seems horrible.

Do you think the brick is still working like that or it is something I need to fix immedietly?
Old 01-17-2017, 09:59 AM
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So just got my quote back from the shop and I had had them add some extra stuff and that costs more than I expected. Didn't know the price of the 9.1 lower and the required idler relocation with 50mm pulley kit. Between the two that is over $1000 in parts. I think they might end up getting removed from the upgrade unfortunately. It just put me at a level I was expecting to be price wise. The good thing is they said they should be able to get me in next week already to do the work. Hopefully I can still get it tuned without issues with my brick in the condition it is.
Old 01-17-2017, 10:58 AM
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i wouldn't bother with any type of upgrade without addressing the brick first... a collapsed brick will kill flow which translates to your higher IAT2s... that will mess with your tune so it would be pointless... get the fundamentals working properly first, then do the upgrades... if you can't wait for the brick to get fixed then just order a pre reinforced brick as a core exchange... that way you have it in time if you still plan to do new pump, etc... why bother tuning it if you know there is a bottleneck... do it right once... it's cheaper in the longrun...

Lid Modifications - Manifold Conversions, Reinforcement, etc
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
My engine seems to sadly differ about having a lot of blowby. I know that is over 76k miles but still that can't really be normal is it? Maybe I am just over reacting to seeing that the way it is but it seems horrible.

Do you think the brick is still working like that or it is something I need to fix immedietly?
if you feel like you have that much blowby then catchcan needs to be on the list ASAP... either get one with a prefabbed drain or a dual can should have more capacity... you can always expect blowby with F/I applications, but it all depends on how much/hard you drive it...

my N/A MR2 has tons of blowby but that's because the rings are shot...
Old 01-17-2017, 12:31 PM
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I don't know if everything under the cover is blowby or not but how else would it get there. Could that really just be light blowby for over 76k miles? I am not trying to say anyone is wrong just trying to figure this out.

I am contacting him today to order a new reinforced brick with core exchange. Still trying to figure out what catch can I want but going to do that tonight.

These are not really supposed to be upgrades as much as fixing my a/f ratio. The higher temps caused by a crushed brick shouldn't have anything to do with the fact my a/f ratio is contstantly between 13.1 and 13.6. Yes adding upgrades with it at the same time though so I only have to pay for one tune.
Old 01-17-2017, 03:29 PM
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Ok so just put my deposit down. Decided to do everything I had listed. Depending on when things arrive it will either get done next Thursday and Friday or the Thursday and Friday after that as Thursday Friday combos just fit better with my work schedule.

Also figured out my lid problem. I am getting a used ZL1 lid they they have at the shop. It was only used for about 5k miles. Getting it for just under what they used to be new so can't complain based on the price. Its already milled down and sitting at the shop so I don't have to wait.

Now I just need to choose a catch can and get it installed before the car goes in for the work.
Old 01-17-2017, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
Are these what you are talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Rennsteig-Dua.../dp/B009SM2DTW Doesn't seem like they are small enough though. Can't seem to find a smaller kit.
I just used a #1 extractor on a 10mm honda bolt, doesn't get much smaller.
I bought it at sears.. I'll find a link. There are several variants out there.
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Old 01-17-2017, 04:15 PM
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Also.. just saw someone put up ID850s on vowners for $600.. less than 7k miles.. just upgraded to 1ks.. said sale pending but might still be up.
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:53 PM
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Appreciate it. I got some new FIC1000 coming so that way when I eventually add headers and what not I won't need new injectors.
Old 01-17-2017, 08:11 PM
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sounds like you are really stepping up the build...
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:12 PM
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Do it once. Do it right. That is how I have always built my cars. This is about 6-12 months before I was planing on doing something else this big to the car but oh well part of it is needed.
Old 01-17-2017, 09:16 PM
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You're gonna be ready for some rainy weather highway racing in no time. Hunting down STS-Vs... and killing them.
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Old 01-17-2017, 09:18 PM
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FWIW these are the ones I've usEd

Sears.com
Old 01-17-2017, 11:06 PM
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FIC1000

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Old 01-17-2017, 11:56 PM
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yeah, screw those (punzine) ladiboi.. It wouldn't catch, need to drilll deeper with those and a t-bar plus tap it out ever so gently.
CCCCoolts.. what I used on that 10mm was a 1/8in square screw extractor Craftsman brand.
Worked like a charm. I didn't even use a t-bar, used my tiny drill with a lot of downward pressure into the bit.. and just slowly worked it out of the thread.

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Old 01-17-2017, 11:59 PM
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Only Gus (04WDP) and J (RS) know.. but the bearing on my AC compressor was out. The clutch plate is held in by a tiny 10mm bolt.. well.. you need to hold the plate in position to remove bolt or else it spins with plate.. well.. I'm like fuck it.. hit with the drill to spin in out before plate has a chance to spin.. yeah.. 1/2in drill on a 10mm bolt that has thread lock on it.. I'm an idiot. spun the head of the bolt right off. Had about zero degrees of freedom.. drilling and doing anything with the AC compressor was a effing bitch. Anyways, it all worked out.

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Old 01-18-2017, 12:01 AM
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If you have enough material of the bolt sticking out.. best thing to do is try to grab it and work it out.
The bolt that snapped on mine was complete flush with the neck / gear of the compressor.
Spent hours trying to tap/spin the bolt out with a hammer and chisel.. waste of time.
Old 01-18-2017, 12:05 AM
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You ever realize how you never get to practice with something like an extractor in a controlled environment? It's always some boneheaded situation?

I think I'm gonna write myself a note... When WagonJr. Is like 12, I'm gonna make up some sort of metal plate with a bunch of fasteners installed and dorked up. Break some heads off, round off the hexes, whatever. And then we'll practice unfuxking the situation.
Old 01-18-2017, 12:06 AM
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That's life skillz.
Old 01-18-2017, 12:10 AM
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#lifeskillzzz



Here's some bullshit vid of a similar product I used.. I'm like.. brah.. please.



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