CCColtsicehockey

damnit reading your post I was hoping you were onto something I might have missed and then I read the last part

CCColtsicehockey

Yup I remembered reading that but it isn't true. I have crushed sections on both the front pipe and near the x by the crossbrace. I don't see how it could possibly fit without doing it though with how things fit under the car with out letting the pipes sit a lot lower and risk scraping them while driving over bumps and what not.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I hate it when they do that, although it is strange that GM would not list the specifics for that assembly. This may be one of those things where the customer has to either call/visit a local dealership, parts printout in hand, and have the wizards there explain it.

lol, I tried. This could very well be related to the 'crunching' noise you mentioned. Those initial pictures you posted on page 28 show that it has been going on for a while. Not knowing how much lubricant is embedded within that assembly, it may be prudent and bite the bullet to put further investigation of this, with either the dealer or a respectable comparison, higher on your 'to do' list. It would be a hell of a note to be stranded somewhere on one of your 'long hauls' as a result of this thing 'shitting the bed' miles from home.

Good Luck!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I wonder though, Jason...
if it was too tight for you, that might just be residual lube slinging out...I would be shocked it if was your groan or whatever.
What fluid did you end up using in your rear diff? I'm thinking I should do mine sooner than later.

CCColtsicehockey

I used the stock fluid that already includes the friction additive

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Nice, I've been reading up on using amsoil or maybe redline...pretty sure I did 75W90 or something redline on the S2000.

You did notice that I said Jastin, right? Kinda of a poke at calling you Justin the other day? I was like, damn...wonder if he thought I forgot again.

CCColtsicehockey

totally missed that one

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

LOL...no kidding.
Well, I'm very happy you're happy with your exhaust, man.

Hmmm...I just got an idea, what about wiring in the QTP on the Corsa piping before the clamp! genius!
I love your set up now...that's insane. There's no way your girlfriend would have not noticed that beastly sound.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Reexamining the pics above, in the first, you can see what appears to be centrifugally excreted lube residue at the two holes between the retainer bolts. It appears again in the second picture along with an area of dark residue on the retainer bolt side itself at the edge. Both of which, more or less, correspond with the patterns on the exhaust shielding.

I would like to know if this diff. coupler part is a self-contained unit with a heavy grease compound lubricating the ball bearings as they sit in their retainment cage vs. it being fed with diff. fluid from the case where the fluid is changed? Looking at the part diagram, my guess is that it is self-contained, and the now cleaned flung residue is the heavy grease compound, kind of like axel grease for a CV Joint And perhaps, like a CV joint that starts to 'click' as it wears without enough lube, he hears an occasional groan when the right amount of flexion occurs, if any.

Majofo

This and only this:
ACDelco 10-4034 Dexron LS 75W-90 Gear Oil

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-40.../dp/B008BZS6J8

CCColtsicehockey

I have been trying to tell him that Majofo everytime he asks but he wants to use the new fangled redline stuff. He doesn't understand that possible implications.

CCColtsicehockey

I don't think that would work man. The piping on the corsa is so short. I think it will have to be right after the bends on the factorty exhaust. Just before the where the corsa will clamp on. I think it will just barely be wide enough there as well.

I really don't think she would have known if I had the valves shut. When you start the car with the valves shut it makes even less noise than the Corsa.

CCColtsicehockey

Yeah I definitely need to get it taken care of sooner than later. I have two more 1k mile trips planned before the end of the year and do not want to be stranded on either of them or especially have the Vagon towed.



I am hoping it is self contained and not fed by the diff. Most of what I found seems to be a thick grease compound but I did find some stuff in the same area that smelled like the GM diff fluid.

CCColtsicehockey

So I opened a case with Meisterschaft last night regarding the fitment issues I am having. Sent them a ton of pictures as well. Hope they will be able to help me figure it out them.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

oh wow...I thought you got it sorted!
LOL, I was just regurgitating what I read on the forum...
I'll use the stuff Majofo posted.
2 quarts enough to fill?

CCColtsicehockey

Nope I still have issues where the outer most hanger on both mufflers is full pressed against the exhaust hanger bracket on the car. Also the coupler for the muffler to the xpipe rubs on the rear diff case sometimes. I am not as worried about that one as I am the hanger. The hanger I believe is causing me to have an annoying rattle. It is almost like I need a way to drop the exhaust by about 1/4-3/8in.

Yes quarts is enough cause it only takes about 1.5qts. Also you will need one of this to fill it if you don't already have one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1DSJZKDZY2E4B Z549T9A&th=1

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Jason...
I appreciate it. Yeah, I have one.
Oh wow...yeah, that would be super annoying...on the first S2000 I recall having to get creative to get the piping away from the diff and lower control arm rubbing.
I'm sure you'll get it figured out. I wonder how they'd address it.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

FYI, I just got off the phone with a local Caddy dealer. The parts person there stated that they could not determine the exact part # for the Automatic Vagon diff. coupling without the VIN#. He stated that dependent on the VIN for your vehicle you may have to buy the driveshaft as well and that is why the on-line parts diagram(s) do not show a specific listing. I also looked for the driveshaft online and could not find it specifically. So, that seems to explain why the part # info is missing, gotta deal with the dealer.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

that's the weirdest shit ever.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I agree. I was like 'Oh, that's why I can't find the driveshaft either'. For some reason the part is /vin# dependant. Probably because it's a known issue, based on year, and they need that specific info. to send out the correct coupling and driveshaft. Perhaps based on length,hehe

Next time you are under yours, please get some pics for comparison.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

You'd like that wouldn't you...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

it's based on VIN so they know if you have a MT or AT... they wold be different lengths based on the trans... but they should have just kept it as a MT/AT option... not on VIN... dumb...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

how many clamp points do you have 1 or 2???

1 towards the front and another 1 before the muffler is that right?

here is a dumb question... you had everything loose and lined up hanging before you snugged everything down right?

CCColtsicehockey

And the biggest reason of all is so you can't easily buy one from some place else so they can completely over charge you for the part.

CCColtsicehockey

Correct I have two clamp points. You have the front tubes off the manifolds, then the xpipe section, and then the mufflers.

Everything was lose when I first hooked everything up. I did have to make sure the mufflers sat a little further back to clear my sway bar but the hanger on the muffler hitting the mount on the car was an issue from the start. It was even causing an issue just to get the metal hanger into the rubber hanger cause it was blocking me from raising the muffler high enough to get it into the hole. Yes I am sure many comments will be made about that statement.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

i always found that with muffler/exhaust work, sometimes you just need to bend the hanger a little to get it to fit right... (even with OEM replacements)

so get out some vise grips and try to bend it... if you don't want to scratch the pretty metal, wrap it in electrical tape before you clamp the vise on....

CCColtsicehockey

Only thing I have not tried is removing the new sway bar and then losening everything up. It is possible that the mufflers need to sit so far back to not hit anything I guess that it would cause them to make contact with my new larger sway bar.

Majofo

Did you try cutting the hanger?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I agree. On the other hand, if you think about the function of it (the coupler and the connecting drive shaft) there are a lot of balancing/harmonic vibration considerations, to take into account for longevity and safety issues. I would speculate that GM made the coupler 'non-serviceable' for the reasons you mention and for overall safety due to the speeds the coupler/driveshaft rotate and the torque loads associated with getting an awesome 2 ton beast up and ready to play. The one thing a forgot to ask the dealership wizard was how much $ there part would cost.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

Damn J... sounds awesome. Need to see this bad boy in person one of these days. Maybe I'll make it to November's C&C

CCColtsicehockey

Maybe December. I will be at the Dragon in November.

I do want to make it to one you go to though so I can have you drive it just for the piece of mind of seeing if everything is the way it should be since I have never been in another Vagon.

cu2wagon

I just went through that with the shiny fart cannons on my mommywagon. Well, more accurately, the guy at the exhaust shop did. Because my dainty little girly hands can't get dirty and I couldn't install it myself. But yeah. Even though the kit came having been test fitted on an (in theory) identical car, he ended up needing to beat the muffler hangers into submission to get the tips away from the valance. And they're still not "correctly" aligned in the cutouts.

According to muffler guy, that's totally common.

So, maybe you need to:

fsttyms1

Dat exhaust

If you bought longer rubber hangers would that help fix it? Most auto parts stores sell different size/strength/length hangers. Stop by with one of yours and look for some slightly different in the way you need??

They used QTP cutouts? How quickly do they open? Is the remote the only way to open the valves?

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

you going to stealth install the remote to one of your homelink buttons?

CCColtsicehockey

They take about 7 seconds to fully open or fully close. You have to hold the button down the entire time to do it. Unfortunately I just saw on their site they now have a one touch kit so you don't have to do that anymore but it wasn't listed when I bought mine.

I am definitely going to do that. You need to use two buttons though. There is a seperate button for open and close. So probably going to use the left for one and the right for the other and use the middle for my garage door.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

don't worry about the buttons Jason, you already know your ass will be running it open all the time.

CCColtsicehockey

Around town yes I will be running it completely open all the time. I only wanted the valves for when I make my long road trips honestly.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Majofo

Teh hell.. complain, that's burrrrshieett.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

at the price you paid, yeah I agree.