fsttyms1

try getting a new bolt and nut?

CCColtsicehockey

I think this is the thread you might have been talking about. Hoping a good fix is figured out soon.

Been thinking of this but if the problem is the design it self another bolt is only going to probably work so long. That thread has some promising solutions in it. Waiting for the outcome cause I think it is already slowly returning. I can tell my steering wheel is gradually getting more out of alignment daily. It seems I might be needing to get a new alignment every 2-3k miles right now to make sure I don't ruin my tires.

CCColtsicehockey

Finally passed 60k miles this weekend on another road trip with the Vagon.

Box is safe at triple digits

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

^ What are you doing to protect the front of the car on trips?

I have a bra but have still been thinking about doing a clear bra.

CCColtsicehockey

As of right now I have done nothing to it. Just drive it and see how the paint ends up wearing.

The bumper was already chipping and cracking at the bottom from the previous owner so it will need a repaint some day. I haven't decided if I will repaint this bumper or just buy a new one. At that time though I will go clear bra.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

Ahh, gotcha. Makes sense

CCColtsicehockey

Glad I have experience waiting for parts from Japan. Just ordered some made to order parts for the V and the wait begins. 6-8 Weeks till arrival.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

^ I'm ready when you're ready

CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

She purdy.

CCColtsicehockey

Thanks for the picture. I haven't taken any recently of her.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

Nice! Looking good!

neuronbob

I just can't explain it, but these wagons look even more awesome with a roof box on top like in post #1003 above.

CCColtsicehockey

I know right. I honestly do like it so much more with it on. I have been seriously considering a low profile gloss black Rhino box to run all the time on the car as a mod.

CCColtsicehockey

So took another road trip this weekend up to Pittsburgh to see the US Open at Oakmont. On the way back I passed over 65k miles on the car. At the going rate I will reach 20k miles on my Vagon in the first year of ownership easily by the time it hits my purchase date this fall.

Everything is still going strong on the car with not but regular basic maintenance. I do have one issue though I can't figure out that seems to come and go and really only when making tight turns on hilly roads. I get a grinding/rubbing noise coming from the passenger rear side it seems. This happened when I took it the dragon last november and then happening again when I look it to Pittsburgh this weekend and was in some tight areas. I can't seem to find any marks of anything rubbing though.

cmschmie

Maybe a wheel bearing when the wheel is being stressed?

TylerT

iTrader: (1)

Rear differential?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

My Wife's front bearing was bad at 45K and only 4 years old...

CCColtsicehockey

I don't hear anything when going straight at low speeds or on the high turning or straight. I would think I would hear a bad wheel bearing would mean it is all the time. I agree it could be the rear diff but just seams weird it only happens on inlince or declines and at low speeds.

I can't see anything rubbing from under the car but I think I will pull the wheels this weekend to make sure.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

No, if it doesn't increase with speed, I agree...

SamDoe1

When wheel bearings first start going, they'll only make sound when they are loaded with weight. For example, if you hear the noise when turning left, the issue is with a right side bearing and vice versa. Once it gets bad enough, you'll hear it all the time. Another grinding/rubbing noise could be the brake pads being low or the wheels not being properly torqued. If it was the rear diff I'd imagine the noise would happen all the time and get worse when accelerating, shouldn't have anything to do with direction.

CCColtsicehockey

The sound from the rear is gone again for now. I am sure sometime it will come back.

Now I am having an issue with the rear of the car. Anytime unless really hot out that I go over speed bumps the car squeaks and feels like it has bottomed out with a nice clunking/slamming feeling in the back when I roll over the bump. At first I thought maybe my Corsa exhaust was hitting something but crawled under the car and pushed it all around and it wasn't able to hit anything.

I removed the rear wheels and this is what the rear shocks look like. Are they leaking, blown, or just covered in regular road dirt and grime? To me it seems to be a little more than just road dirt. If they are leaking or blown it hasn't gotten bad enough that anything has leaked on my garage floor at all.

CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

Looks like it's time for coils

Majofo

magne shock/strut fluid is dark brown and under a lot of pressure
When it's hot out, the remaining oil (not leaked) might have enough pressure to dampen those bumps, possible explanation..
Anyways, scrape some grime off and see if it's magnetized.

Majofo

That's not how the rear works you backwoods ninny.. magneride > *

CCColtsicehockey

Probably not unfortunately. The only coils I would want are KW V3. They cost $2800 including the adapters to keep from having a dash light and putting the car in limp mode due to the missing magnetic ride shocks. If I have to swap out the shocks though I will probably at least order the Eibach springs since I will be taking half the car appart to do the shocks.

Checking the fronts tonight to see what they look like. That will determine what route I go. I won't even consider the coils unless all 4 need replacing and even at current prices to replace all 4 would only be $1220 + 254 for Eibach Springs = $1474. Still only about half the cost of the KW V3.

I always told myself as soon as shocks need replacing I would get coils so I could make this thing handle like it is on rails but not sure I want to give up the magnetic ride anymore. The plush ride can be nice sometimes.

CCColtsicehockey

Would that really actually work? I know that is in the name but never thought about that.

Whats your guess from the pics or can I only tell by wiping some of it off and seeing the color?

Majofo

Looks blown.. too much grime. Although.. it would leak from the top down. Why don't you put some weight on the rear and see how much it's actually dampening. If it's a little too loose with the wife and dogs jumping on the back of it, it's a good indicator it's toast as well.

Majofo

regarding if it's actually magnetized..

CCColtsicehockey

This past weekend it was always bottoming or at least dipping enough for the exhuast or something to hit over even the smallest of the speed bumps with the dogs in the back and the girlfriend up front and some gear in the back when we went to the lake for the day. I think we went over at least 10 speed bumps in and out of a shopping complex we stopped at on the way. All 4 dogs though only weigh about a combined 160-170lbs. If you add the girlfriend and the stuff that was in the back to that there could not have been more than an extra 350lbs.

I am wondering if I caused them to blow on my trips to PA ealier this year with an entire full roof box and the dogs. I had only maybe half a finger between the wheel arch and tire.

CCColtsicehockey

Figured you were not actually being serious but I also don't know much about that tech so wasn't just going to ignore it.

CCColtsicehockey

So last night I got time to check the fronts. The shocks themselves don't seem to have anything but road dirt and brake dust on them. Nothing stick or anything everything just lightly brushes off. They look nothing like the rears do. I still need to recheck the rears to see if what is on them is brown in color.

However, I did find two other things that may or may not be of concern up front. On the drivers side the one bushing on the bottom of the shock body where it bolts to the LCA looks as if it is not in the best shape. I am not sure how much that would affeck anything. The other thing is the lock nut on the passenger side of the steering rack was completely loose. It wasn't even close to being where it is supposed to be.



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CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

just little bumps in the road...you'll get it squared away.

SamDoe1

Couple things.

1.) The shocks themselves are dampers, they don't actually transmit any load. That's what springs are for. That said if you are trying to dampen a heavy load, they can blow because the rate at which the body moves in relation to the wheel is quite different than without the heavy load but again, the spring carries the weight, not the shock and it would have to be a rapid transfer of weight like you would get if you went off a jump or something Normal driving won't have any issues. 350lbs won't cause any issues but if you're lugging around 2000lbs in weight it's probably going to be an issue (though I still don't think it would matter unless you hit a massive pothole). Given that you carried it on the roof, that load is distributed across all 4 wheels (though not equally) so it shouldn't be a rear only issue.

2.) Your car is rear drive no? Wouldn't there be more crap in the wheel wells of driven wheels? Wipe some of it off and see if it feels oily or if it feels gritty. That should tell you if it's leaking or not. The fact that everything is dried on there makes me think they aren't blown unless you aren't driving the car at all. If it is leaking, it would look wet unless all of it has leaked out.

3.) Replace that bushing. Depending on how bad it is and what it connects, it could be a big safety issue. And tighten that nut, you might want to get an alignment too since that is what prevents the tie rod from moving from its set position.

CCColtsicehockey

Thanks for all of the info. Yes it is rear drive.

The bushing is at the bottom of the shock body. I am not sure if it is able to be replaced without replacing the entire shock itself. You can see the same bushing on the passenger side in the picture of the tie rod and it looks fine compared to the drivers side one. I tightened the nut and I am going to be getting an alignment this Friday.

SamDoe1

Looks like it mounts to a bushing carrier and could probably be pressed out. Would need a wider angle shot to tell for sure.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

I say sell it and buy a silver one

CCColtsicehockey

Does this work? It is the bushing at the bottom that bolts the shock to the LCA. Or do you need a further out picture of the bushing itself? I don't seem to be able to find that part sold seperately though so far.

To attached to my yellow calipers on black now that I have it. Going to she shop that messed up my alignment on Friday with all this information and gonig to try and make them cover everything. Don't have high hopes though.

foxriderar77

If you really wanted to Im sure you could get that bushing pressed out of the shock and have a new one put in, but that may be as much as getting a new shock.

SamDoe1

You can more than likely press that out and put a new one on. All depends on if GM sells that bushing or if they force you into a whole unit replacement. I'm sure they'd have a procedure for this because it's not often that both the bushing and shock will have failed at the same time.