The Official Honda S2000 Thread
#1321
If you weren't a Mega Mod/ninja assassin government-trained killer I'd maybe demand you to get one and post pics. The mega part scares me more though
#1323
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
^ modded TLS with modded S2K AP2
You win all the way.
You win all the way.
#1324
Senior Moderator
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Better Neighborhood, Arizona
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Hoping to have that white AP2 with my white RL side by side
#1325
Racer
gr8ness97, very nice garage you have there. The sebring silver is my s2k backup color behind the suzuka blue. I love the way the silver paint matches the wheels on the AP2s; it's beautiful.
I continue to search semi-seriously for an S. Unfortunately, they're becoming rare in my area. I've spent lots of seat time in an ap1, but none in an ap2, and I can't really comfortably pull the trigger on an '04+ until I drive one. Right now the closest '04+ S for sale is 1.5 hours away. I love all of the visual updates that Honda made, but I need to determine if the reduced redline bothers me or not.
Thanks for sharing!!
I continue to search semi-seriously for an S. Unfortunately, they're becoming rare in my area. I've spent lots of seat time in an ap1, but none in an ap2, and I can't really comfortably pull the trigger on an '04+ until I drive one. Right now the closest '04+ S for sale is 1.5 hours away. I love all of the visual updates that Honda made, but I need to determine if the reduced redline bothers me or not.
Thanks for sharing!!
#1326
I drive a Subata.
iTrader: (1)
Ap2>ap1
#1327
Burning Brakes
According to a friend who went from an AP1 -> AP2, AP2 has a bit more torque and is more 'comfortable' for daily driving, but the AP1 is more fun on winding courses and the track.
I agree the AP2 looks a bit better stock, but add an Amuse or ASM bumper to your S2K, and it will look much better, whether AP1 or AP2.
I agree the AP2 looks a bit better stock, but add an Amuse or ASM bumper to your S2K, and it will look much better, whether AP1 or AP2.
#1328
Quarterlife Crisis....
iTrader: (5)
Bsprinkler,
If you are considering driving an AP2, do it. Theres a somewhat different feel between the AP1 and AP2. The AP2 is dialed in for more understeer to correct the tailhappiness of the AP1. In addition, the AP2 has way more torque than the AP1 (not numberwise, but moreso in the midrange). You arent going to miss the reduced redline IMO.
Thanks for the Compliment, BTW.
Seems like the S2000 responds okay to bolt ons too. I pulled 217 at the wheels with an HFC, intake and exhaust. Before the HFC, I was at 195.
If you are considering driving an AP2, do it. Theres a somewhat different feel between the AP1 and AP2. The AP2 is dialed in for more understeer to correct the tailhappiness of the AP1. In addition, the AP2 has way more torque than the AP1 (not numberwise, but moreso in the midrange). You arent going to miss the reduced redline IMO.
Thanks for the Compliment, BTW.
Seems like the S2000 responds okay to bolt ons too. I pulled 217 at the wheels with an HFC, intake and exhaust. Before the HFC, I was at 195.
#1329
Three Wheelin'
My mom wants to sell her 04 s2k. Silver with red/black int. 27k. Has a small bit of (very good) bodywork on one front fender. Good tires, etc. Literally been driven by a grandmother. Car is in Louisiana, what's it worth?
#1330
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
^I'll give her a newly filled bottle of oxycontin for it
Your mom has a baller ass car! Why would she want to get rid of it?
A month after I got my TL, I almost traded it in for a AP2. I was about to sign the papers and decided not to. Even though sometimes I wish I would have, I'll get one eventually.
Your mom has a baller ass car! Why would she want to get rid of it?
A month after I got my TL, I almost traded it in for a AP2. I was about to sign the papers and decided not to. Even though sometimes I wish I would have, I'll get one eventually.
#1332
TellinItLikeItIsSince1/06
great thread. and something hit me as i went through every page. the S2000 has roughly 200whp (same as my CL) but weighs 800 lbs less (2800 vs 3600). this car is a must have! (with a proper hardtop install ONLY)
#1333
Racer
Bsprinkler,
If you are considering driving an AP2, do it. Theres a somewhat different feel between the AP1 and AP2. The AP2 is dialed in for more understeer to correct the tailhappiness of the AP1. In addition, the AP2 has way more torque than the AP1 (not numberwise, but moreso in the midrange). You arent going to miss the reduced redline IMO.
If you are considering driving an AP2, do it. Theres a somewhat different feel between the AP1 and AP2. The AP2 is dialed in for more understeer to correct the tailhappiness of the AP1. In addition, the AP2 has way more torque than the AP1 (not numberwise, but moreso in the midrange). You arent going to miss the reduced redline IMO.
But because I'm so accustomed to driving an ap1, I had to keep one eye on the dash so I wouldn't hit redline (I did redline it once or twice). I was very surprised at how quickly the car hit redline and I HAD to shift. Not that it's a bad thing, but it seemed as though when I was entering or in the middle of a turn, I was forced to look down, shift, look down again and shift again. It was weird.
I guess I realized that when I drive an ap1, I keep the car in the six to seven to eight thous. rpm range almost all the time; and I couldn't do that with the ap2. Does that mean I prefer an ap1??? Right now that's my thought process. Any suggestions or opinions?
Last edited by bsprinker; 03-22-2010 at 07:55 AM. Reason: fix sentence
#1334
Ultimately it's all up to you. If you prefer the AP1, you prefer the AP1. To me, the AP2 felt faster, at least in short bursts around town because the midrange torque gave it more grunt getting up to redline, while the AP1 took a while to get there, but once you kept it up it screamed and was very responsive. IMO the AP2, especially around 06+ is a better car all around, but you can't deny that 9000 rpms is a nice, lofty limit.
IIRC the gears in the AP1 and AP2 are the same, I was watching a video on Youtube with a side-by-side comparison of an AP1 and AP2 on the track pitted against each other, and if anything the AP1 was a hair faster just because it could stay in gear longer. Each gear shift meant the AP2 fell back just a bit, but the final lap time was less than a second difference
You will not be at 7000+ all the time when you're driving it, unless you live in the boonies or something. Once you ride a motorcycle for a while though, the difference is meh... if it's really that hard for you to decide, you need to test drive an AP1 then an AP2 on one day and an AP2 then an AP1 on another day.
IIRC the gears in the AP1 and AP2 are the same, I was watching a video on Youtube with a side-by-side comparison of an AP1 and AP2 on the track pitted against each other, and if anything the AP1 was a hair faster just because it could stay in gear longer. Each gear shift meant the AP2 fell back just a bit, but the final lap time was less than a second difference
You will not be at 7000+ all the time when you're driving it, unless you live in the boonies or something. Once you ride a motorcycle for a while though, the difference is meh... if it's really that hard for you to decide, you need to test drive an AP1 then an AP2 on one day and an AP2 then an AP1 on another day.
#1335
Three Wheelin'
IIRC the gears in the AP1 and AP2 are the same, I was watching a video on Youtube with a side-by-side comparison of an AP1 and AP2 on the track pitted against each other, and if anything the AP1 was a hair faster just because it could stay in gear longer. Each gear shift meant the AP2 fell back just a bit, but the final lap time was less than a second difference
EDIT: It won't let me link the site, but this is what it says.
TRANSMISSION
• A tighter secondary gear reduction ratio (1.206 vs 1.16) to provide a bit more snap off the line and to better match the characteristics of the new motor. This is also called the intermediate ratio and is the gear after the transmission and before the driveshaft. It goes like this: Crankshaft --> clutch --> transmission (gears 1-6 + R) --> intermediate ratio gear --> driveshaft --> rear diff --> axles
• 4% shorter ratios for 1st through 4th gears while the 5th ratio is effectively 1% shorter and 6th is effectively 2% longer, for a slightly more relaxed cruise speed. 5th gear ratio changed from 0.971 to 0.942. 6th gear ratio changed from 0.811 to 0.763.
• Carbon fiber synchromesh replace the solid brass ones for all gears except reverse. The new design features a brass ring with a carbon fiber element bonded on the inner surface, resulting in simplified mechanical components, increased synchronizer capacity, improved abrasion resistance, and reduced weight. The weight reduction and increased capacity translates to a smoother and quicker shifting feel. Further enhancing shift feel quality is a reduction in the load acting on the disc spring. Per Honda, this tweak results in reduced shift knob operational load and reduced harshness.
• transmission case rigidity improved
#1337
Senior Moderator
AP1>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>AP2 for fun driving like you are experiencing.
AP2>AP1 as a daily driver due to mid-range torque, though honestly having driven my AP1 for two years I don't notice.
#1339
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
^
Hawt besides that spoiler.
Hawt besides that spoiler.
#1341
And that weird/akward spoiler is the mugen spoiler it's a rare spoiler but looks ugly imo
#1342
Race Director
iTrader: (7)
sooo, i was in the market for a newer Civic Si coupe until i saw this
http://www.r-motorsports.net/newandu...nda-S2000.aspx
thoughts? is the supercharger a no no?
i originally was looking for something smaller and cheaper to maintain than my TL..and something good on gas. its tempting but idk
http://www.r-motorsports.net/newandu...nda-S2000.aspx
thoughts? is the supercharger a no no?
i originally was looking for something smaller and cheaper to maintain than my TL..and something good on gas. its tempting but idk
#1343
I say test drive the car and see how it sounds and feels like. I personally don't like buying cars with heavy mod like sc or tc just because i know it has been abused and driven fairly hard. The price seems really low for that car with the supercharger. 05 with that many miles usally go for i think 17-18.
#1344
Race Director
iTrader: (7)
i would love to drive it, but i think its a two hour drive for me lol.
i dunno, i need to get insurance quotes before i think of an S2K..if an Si is more than my TL, then a S2K will more than likely be more too
i dunno, i need to get insurance quotes before i think of an S2K..if an Si is more than my TL, then a S2K will more than likely be more too
#1345
Well for me the s2 was a little bit more, for some the s2k was cheaper then an si. It depends on alot like your zipcode, record, thefts and accidents people have with the car and things like that.
#1347
Well be careful just because you have a hardtop doesn't mean they won't. They will just take your hardtop and seat costing you even more.
Solution is in r&d and you can read more info on s2ki, someone is working on hardtop locks couple that with seatlocks and a good alarm should do the trick.
Solution is in r&d and you can read more info on s2ki, someone is working on hardtop locks couple that with seatlocks and a good alarm should do the trick.
#1348
Drifting
iTrader: (10)
yup.. trust me I know.. I live in orlando.. s2000 crime capital of the world.. had my civic hatch stolen while my friends s2k seats were stolen and put into my civic hatch while we were both at work.. thank god I didnt drive my s2k to work that day! Bits thats what made me sell it!
#1349
Yea i get very paranoid when i park in bad areas. Luckily i have a garage to park at night, helps me sleep at night. My friend also had his hatch stolen and stripped, these thieves are starting to really bug me. At least with me having an 06 with the new seat design they don't look as "cool" so they are not as wanted as the ones with the honey comb headrest.
I am definitely looking for a hardtop but nothing beats going to 8300 rpm with the top down to listen to that engine roar.
I am definitely looking for a hardtop but nothing beats going to 8300 rpm with the top down to listen to that engine roar.
#1350
Quarterlife Crisis....
iTrader: (5)
Crazyasian, an S2000 isnt going to get better mileage than a TL unless you are in the city and granny-shift all the time. On the highway, the TL's more relaxed revving and bigger tank makes a huge difference.
Both my TL-S and S2000 cost me roughly the same amount to insure, with the TL being about 75 dollars cheaper. Both have full coverage.
Both my TL-S and S2000 cost me roughly the same amount to insure, with the TL being about 75 dollars cheaper. Both have full coverage.
#1354
On the highway you should be getting 30+ and 22-25 in the city. The s2k does better in the city then the tl and about the same on the highway. I am about 3500-4000 going 70 in AP2. Plus its a smaller gas tank about 4 gallons. I get as many miles per tank as i did the tl and i drive the s2k much harder, rev-match, and heel-toe.
#1355
Racer
What's it worth??
Those of you who already own an S2000, or those who are looking to buy one, please give me your opinions on this s2k for sale.....'03 mostly stock, except for front lip & rear truck spoiler. It also is my #1 color choice, has under 20k miles, and comes with the OEM hardtop. Asking price is $18.5k. What do you think?
I feel that the price is a little on the high side, even with the hardtop and low miles. I'm considering calling the dealership and attempting to see how low they would go. Again, this is the garage-queen that I've dreamed about, but it comes at a premium price. I think it's in the ballpark though.
Feedback???
I feel that the price is a little on the high side, even with the hardtop and low miles. I'm considering calling the dealership and attempting to see how low they would go. Again, this is the garage-queen that I've dreamed about, but it comes at a premium price. I think it's in the ballpark though.
Feedback???
#1356
Senior Moderator
Price is too high by several $k. If you can talk them down to, say, $15-16k (HT is worth $2k by itself), get it. If the rear spoiler is the OEM Honda spoiler, it actually looks good. I am assuming that it's not a huge wing...anyone who does that to their S2000 needs their car taken away from them .
#1357
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
#1359
Racer
Price is too high by several $k. If you can talk them down to, say, $15-16k (HT is worth $2k by itself), get it. If the rear spoiler is the OEM Honda spoiler, it actually looks good. I am assuming that it's not a huge wing...anyone who does that to their S2000 needs their car taken away from them .
I was thinking the same as you and gr8ness. I think $16k is a realistic target. I doubt they'll go that low, but I think that's what I'd consider a very fair deal, since it has such low miles and the hardtop. I'd be very surprised if they didn't have $3.5k to $4k markup on that car. I think I'll call them today to get a feel and see if I can haggle with them. Thanks guys.
One more question...do you guys think that many more low mileage S2k's will emerge for sale in the coming 6-12 months? If this Dealer doesn't come down to my target price, I'd hate to miss out on this car, considering how rare it's becoming.
Can I reasonably expect to see many more of these ultra-low mileage ap1's available for a reasonable target price ($15k-17k)? I don't want to lose this car over less than $1k, see the economy "start" to turnaround, and subsequently see these cars go up in price. How patient do I need to be? And how do I determine if I'm just waiting for the right car or just be cheap and unwilling to pay reasonable market price? I guess that's where this forum's advice becomes very valuable. Thoughts??
#1360
on to the next one...
The spoiler is the OEM, so it's not a high ugly one...I wouldn't even consider a car for that much $ with one of those ugly wings on it.
I was thinking the same as you and gr8ness. I think $16k is a realistic target. I doubt they'll go that low, but I think that's what I'd consider a very fair deal, since it has such low miles and the hardtop. I'd be very surprised if they didn't have $3.5k to $4k markup on that car. I think I'll call them today to get a feel and see if I can haggle with them. Thanks guys.
One more question...do you guys think that many more low mileage S2k's will emerge for sale in the coming 6-12 months? If this Dealer doesn't come down to my target price, I'd hate to miss out on this car, considering how rare it's becoming.
Can I reasonably expect to see many more of these ultra-low mileage ap1's available for a reasonable target price ($15k-17k)? I don't want to lose this car over less than $1k, see the economy "start" to turnaround, and subsequently see these cars go up in price. How patient do I need to be? And how do I determine if I'm just waiting for the right car or just be cheap and unwilling to pay reasonable market price? I guess that's where this forum's advice becomes very valuable. Thoughts??
I was thinking the same as you and gr8ness. I think $16k is a realistic target. I doubt they'll go that low, but I think that's what I'd consider a very fair deal, since it has such low miles and the hardtop. I'd be very surprised if they didn't have $3.5k to $4k markup on that car. I think I'll call them today to get a feel and see if I can haggle with them. Thanks guys.
One more question...do you guys think that many more low mileage S2k's will emerge for sale in the coming 6-12 months? If this Dealer doesn't come down to my target price, I'd hate to miss out on this car, considering how rare it's becoming.
Can I reasonably expect to see many more of these ultra-low mileage ap1's available for a reasonable target price ($15k-17k)? I don't want to lose this car over less than $1k, see the economy "start" to turnaround, and subsequently see these cars go up in price. How patient do I need to be? And how do I determine if I'm just waiting for the right car or just be cheap and unwilling to pay reasonable market price? I guess that's where this forum's advice becomes very valuable. Thoughts??