Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
#923
A J35A8 EG civic is in
Isnt the only difference between the Base and TypeS the ECU? (in terms of installing a turbo)
Therefore the TypeS owners could buy the same kit, but just need to get their FI/C fully tuned from a tuner. I might be wrong, but this is just something that came to mind.
Therefore the TypeS owners could buy the same kit, but just need to get their FI/C fully tuned from a tuner. I might be wrong, but this is just something that came to mind.
#924
Team Owner
As far as I know. And the advantages of the larger engine would show up as better spoolup and a little extra power at the same psi. That's the beauty of the turbo. The wastegate will keep the boost the same regardless of which engine it's on. If you were to put the supercharger from a base onto a type S the boost would be lower.
#925
When the kit comes out, the BOV could be deleted for the auto trans models, especially with what looks to be the ported compressor housing. It would lower the price just a little.
You guys could offer the 550hp kit with methanol injection and 15psi lol. Think about it, a TL with turbo kit, K&N filter, and exhaust taking down new Z06s and Vipers.
I'm stil excited, this car went from one of the worst bang for the bucks, dollar per hp gained to actually respectable.
You guys could offer the 550hp kit with methanol injection and 15psi lol. Think about it, a TL with turbo kit, K&N filter, and exhaust taking down new Z06s and Vipers.
I'm stil excited, this car went from one of the worst bang for the bucks, dollar per hp gained to actually respectable.
I'll admit that I don't know much about turbo kits, so with that being said, why do you say the BOV could be deleted for autos? Wouldn't you still need that? I realize the auto would switch gears before too much pressure builds up, but couldn't it create a problem in the long run?
Oh, and it would be a lot of fun to take on a Z06 or Viper with a TL and be able to keep up with, if not beat them!!!
#927
Ak Ting Up
Regular Guy Question...
The car is supposed to be ULEV (Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle), Do you think the Turbo TL will pass state emissions tests ?
Oh, and for the record (what record ?) I think $4K to $5K for this upgrade is a great price!!
Oh, and for the record (what record ?) I think $4K to $5K for this upgrade is a great price!!
Last edited by AcuraVic; 06-12-2009 at 10:21 AM. Reason: additional info
#928
#929
Ak Ting Up
#931
I don't know.....I've seen video of a turbo'd grand prix (with racing slicks) smoke a dodge viper on the strip! I kid I kid....you're right probably just keep up.
I did race a Chevelle SS396 last night.......didn't know he had a supercharger though I needed the turbo kit!
I did race a Chevelle SS396 last night.......didn't know he had a supercharger though I needed the turbo kit!
#932
Burning Brakes
Yes it will include all neccesary parts , so after install you can start up ....a complete kit with all hardware example( a g35 turbonetics kit ).. Just an example .....
#934
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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[QUOTE=Hi speed;11000104]
I agree, since redline is 7k-ish... you pretty much end up with super short gears... shortshifter is a must and good hand eye coordination...
Just to get an idea, but if & when 500 is achieved, um, just how much stuff is going to be needed to upgraded?
At 400, it seems banelba & pass haven't really needed to upgrade anything outside what the turbo needs to run, thus the cost of the kit seems pretty damn nice.
At 500, though, I really am curious. How much more cash are we going to need to have ready other than the for the kit? I'll be a little stricken if I saw I needed the cash for tranny upgrades, new tires, new internals, etc. etc.
It is one thing to make 400-500 on a dyno where the car is straped down, but the street is where its going to get a little scary. Driving a 400+ HP and TQ TL is going to take some serious skill and 500 HP is no WOT until 120+ MPH on drag radials. Once I see the kit sorted out I will be on board, but the car already is hard to shift fast enough to stay out of the red.
At 400, it seems banelba & pass haven't really needed to upgrade anything outside what the turbo needs to run, thus the cost of the kit seems pretty damn nice.
At 500, though, I really am curious. How much more cash are we going to need to have ready other than the for the kit? I'll be a little stricken if I saw I needed the cash for tranny upgrades, new tires, new internals, etc. etc.
It is one thing to make 400-500 on a dyno where the car is straped down, but the street is where its going to get a little scary. Driving a 400+ HP and TQ TL is going to take some serious skill and 500 HP is no WOT until 120+ MPH on drag radials. Once I see the kit sorted out I will be on board, but the car already is hard to shift fast enough to stay out of the red.
#935
Team Owner
I'll admit that I don't know much about turbo kits, so with that being said, why do you say the BOV could be deleted for autos? Wouldn't you still need that? I realize the auto would switch gears before too much pressure builds up, but couldn't it create a problem in the long run?
Oh, and it would be a lot of fun to take on a Z06 or Viper with a TL and be able to keep up with, if not beat them!!!
Oh, and it would be a lot of fun to take on a Z06 or Viper with a TL and be able to keep up with, if not beat them!!!
In an auto you're not letting off the gas nearly as much as a manual and the compressor housing of the turbo in the pictures looks like it's the ported unit which lessens the need for a BOV.
I never ran one until the last couple of years and that's just because I have such a large volume of air with a huge intercooler and 3" piping and a $1,800 turbo. In the first 12 years or so I never had a problem without a BOV. It also makes what I consider a cooler sound than a BOV when you let off.
#936
Team Owner
I couldn't tell but I'm assuimng the cats are deleted. If not, that's aweome. The turbo will only effect the 3rd cat if it affects anything. The turbo and associated plumbing can take some of the heat out of the exhaust stream during cruise which may or may not reduce the effectiveness. Overall I don't think there will be a problem with the cats in place.
#937
Safety Car
lol damn we worked on a 70 chevelle ss a couple of years ago with a 454 + a 686 blower (or something like that) dual carb, 4.5inch pipes stright to the sides, tubbed out...all we did at the shop was the interior, but just to have the car there n be able to start it up everynight and warm it up was good enough for me lol....dude was over 1000horse with 93octane LOL!!!! it sounded like shotguns going off everytime a piston would go up n down.
#938
Team Owner
lol damn we worked on a 70 chevelle ss a couple of years ago with a 454 + a 686 blower (or something like that) dual carb, 4.5inch pipes stright to the sides, tubbed out...all we did at the shop was the interior, but just to have the car there n be able to start it up everynight and warm it up was good enough for me lol....dude was over 1000horse with 93octane LOL!!!! it sounded like shotguns going off everytime a piston would go up n down.
My father's GN (4.5L V6) made well over 800rwhp on pump gas....but it had a healthy dose of methanol injection. It's unlike any V6 you've ever heard. The solid cam is huge so it has a very loud clatter, sounds like a car in desperate need of a valve adjustment and the idle is so lopy, it sounds like a cammed big block. I remember that thing shaking dishes in the kitchen cabinets when he would start it in the garage. I followed him one time in my car and got to see all the people with a WTF look on their face as he drove by.
#939
The wastegate controls boost pressure. The BOV is just there for when you slam the throttle shut while under boost to prevent a shockwave reversing the flow of air through the turbo. It puts a ton of stress on the thrust bearing and can stop or slow the compressor.
In an auto you're not letting off the gas nearly as much as a manual and the compressor housing of the turbo in the pictures looks like it's the ported unit which lessens the need for a BOV.
I never ran one until the last couple of years and that's just because I have such a large volume of air with a huge intercooler and 3" piping and a $1,800 turbo. In the first 12 years or so I never had a problem without a BOV. It also makes what I consider a cooler sound than a BOV when you let off.
In an auto you're not letting off the gas nearly as much as a manual and the compressor housing of the turbo in the pictures looks like it's the ported unit which lessens the need for a BOV.
I never ran one until the last couple of years and that's just because I have such a large volume of air with a huge intercooler and 3" piping and a $1,800 turbo. In the first 12 years or so I never had a problem without a BOV. It also makes what I consider a cooler sound than a BOV when you let off.
Thanks for the info.....I have to admit that even if this turbo setup didn't work, we've all learned a lot from reading the posts here! A huge thanks goes out to all for posting the info!!
#940
Safety Car
that's awesome. Only with a lot of displacement would you be able to make that kind of power on pump gas. I still miss the old rowdy v8s.
My father's gn (4.5l v6) made well over 800rwhp on pump gas....but it had a healthy dose of methanol injection. It's unlike any v6 you've ever heard. The solid cam is huge so it has a very loud clatter, sounds like a car in desperate need of a valve adjustment and the idle is so lopy, it sounds like a cammed big block. I remember that thing shaking dishes in the kitchen cabinets when he would start it in the garage. I followed him one time in my car and got to see all the people with a wtf look on their face as he drove by.
My father's gn (4.5l v6) made well over 800rwhp on pump gas....but it had a healthy dose of methanol injection. It's unlike any v6 you've ever heard. The solid cam is huge so it has a very loud clatter, sounds like a car in desperate need of a valve adjustment and the idle is so lopy, it sounds like a cammed big block. I remember that thing shaking dishes in the kitchen cabinets when he would start it in the garage. I followed him one time in my car and got to see all the people with a wtf look on their face as he drove by.
#941
2008 335i e92 6MT
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just a question, wouldn't we need to remove the limiter if we got that high of hp? i mean will the car just stop making power when it hits 135-155 cuz if not, wouldn't that make the car rev like crazy and then make it uncontrollable? sorry if what i just said makes no sense, not really a car guru like some but just something i was thinking of.
also, if we have auto trannys, will there be any disadvantages with our gearing? or will the turbo make the car rev past redline so we get the most out of the gears?
also, if we have auto trannys, will there be any disadvantages with our gearing? or will the turbo make the car rev past redline so we get the most out of the gears?
#942
Team Owner
just a question, wouldn't we need to remove the limiter if we got that high of hp? i mean will the car just stop making power when it hits 135-155 cuz if not, wouldn't that make the car rev like crazy and then make it uncontrollable? sorry if what i just said makes no sense, not really a car guru like some but just something i was thinking of.
also, if we have auto trannys, will there be any disadvantages with our gearing? or will the turbo make the car rev past redline so we get the most out of the gears?
also, if we have auto trannys, will there be any disadvantages with our gearing? or will the turbo make the car rev past redline so we get the most out of the gears?
Redline won't change unless you program it to be higher. Commanded shift points won't be any higher but I've seen where the rpms climb so fast that it hits the revlimiter before the shift is actually executed even though the computer sends the signal at the same time.
#944
That's still more than enough for them to shit themselves silly.
The speed limiter's a great question. Then again, I'm not sure just how safe a TL becomes anywhere at 160Mph.
But, I think in that area, we're going to need someone else to do the work to remove the limiter. Totally agreeing with you, though.
Badass. I've told a local friend at Jotech, and he's expressed a bit of interest in installing it.
If that's so, looks like we won't have to much longer after the base guys.
just a question, wouldn't we need to remove the limiter if we got that high of hp? i mean will the car just stop making power when it hits 135-155 cuz if not, wouldn't that make the car rev like crazy and then make it uncontrollable? sorry if what i just said makes no sense, not really a car guru like some but just something i was thinking of.
But, I think in that area, we're going to need someone else to do the work to remove the limiter. Totally agreeing with you, though.
If that's so, looks like we won't have to much longer after the base guys.
#945
Pro
iTrader: (1)
one question. I know there is no need for 1000hp, but is the TL capable of getting to that point? i mean a simple bolt on almost gave him 500hp with low boost. (correct) what about with turbo internals what do you guys think the car would do? and upgraded transmission of course.
#946
Team Owner
one question. I know there is no need for 1000hp, but is the TL capable of getting to that point? i mean a simple bolt on almost gave him 500hp with low boost. (correct) what about with turbo internals what do you guys think the car would do? and upgraded transmission of course.
It would require much more work in the form of ported heads and intake, bigger cams, etc. Boost would have to be in the high 20s to mid 30s with a higher 8,000+ rpm redline.
You figure a 6 cylinder with heads that flow in the neighborhood of 360CFM on the intake side with an intake that flows a little more than the heads, some large turbo specific cams to take advantage of the backpressure issue and head flow, and more rpm and it's possible with 29-35psi boost.
The thing is you turn the car into something different. At that level it's not as fun to drive on the street because the spool and transient response is going to be terrible on a little 3.2L. It's going to be tempermental, drivability is going to be much worse, don't forget the huge external fuel pump that's going to be as loud as the aftermarket exhaust, all in all you'll be happier with a 500hp TL for street use. It goes from a "best of all worlds" very tame street car to a temperamental race car.
I've been there before. The only reason I built this larger engine for my car (3.8L to 4.2L) is for drivability. I had no problem making whatever hp I wanted with the 3.8 but the turbo required was slow to spool and was no fun on the street. I bolted the same combo to the 4.2L and the spool was back and the large cam that used to lope was no longer noticable.
I would suggest the Honda 3.7L as the minimum starting point if 1,000hp is the goal. See if there's a stroker crank out there that can push you into the 4L+ territory.
No Honda trans will work. No CV axle will work. No Honda differential will work, you're talking about a welded up no slip unit that sucks on the street and destroys handling. It won't be any faster through the 1/4 unless you're an extemely good driver. It won't hook below 140mph.
#947
Team Owner
#948
Without " I HATE CARS" where would we be? He knows just about everything about the TL and Engines, you give us hope for the Turbo kit for the TL and we thank you. I wish i knew all of these things but wow, you dont play lol
#949
Instructor
Thread Starter
#950
Of course it's doable.
It would require much more work in the form of ported heads and intake, bigger cams, etc. Boost would have to be in the high 20s to mid 30s with a higher 8,000+ rpm redline.
You figure a 6 cylinder with heads that flow in the neighborhood of 360CFM on the intake side with an intake that flows a little more than the heads, some large turbo specific cams to take advantage of the backpressure issue and head flow, and more rpm and it's possible with 29-35psi boost.
The thing is you turn the car into something different. At that level it's not as fun to drive on the street because the spool and transient response is going to be terrible on a little 3.2L. It's going to be tempermental, drivability is going to be much worse, don't forget the huge external fuel pump that's going to be as loud as the aftermarket exhaust, all in all you'll be happier with a 500hp TL for street use. It goes from a "best of all worlds" very tame street car to a temperamental race car.
I've been there before. The only reason I built this larger engine for my car (3.8L to 4.2L) is for drivability. I had no problem making whatever hp I wanted with the 3.8 but the turbo required was slow to spool and was no fun on the street. I bolted the same combo to the 4.2L and the spool was back and the large cam that used to lope was no longer noticable.
I would suggest the Honda 3.7L as the minimum starting point if 1,000hp is the goal. See if there's a stroker crank out there that can push you into the 4L+ territory.
No Honda trans will work. No CV axle will work. No Honda differential will work, you're talking about a welded up no slip unit that sucks on the street and destroys handling. It won't be any faster through the 1/4 unless you're an extemely good driver. It won't hook below 140mph.
It would require much more work in the form of ported heads and intake, bigger cams, etc. Boost would have to be in the high 20s to mid 30s with a higher 8,000+ rpm redline.
You figure a 6 cylinder with heads that flow in the neighborhood of 360CFM on the intake side with an intake that flows a little more than the heads, some large turbo specific cams to take advantage of the backpressure issue and head flow, and more rpm and it's possible with 29-35psi boost.
The thing is you turn the car into something different. At that level it's not as fun to drive on the street because the spool and transient response is going to be terrible on a little 3.2L. It's going to be tempermental, drivability is going to be much worse, don't forget the huge external fuel pump that's going to be as loud as the aftermarket exhaust, all in all you'll be happier with a 500hp TL for street use. It goes from a "best of all worlds" very tame street car to a temperamental race car.
I've been there before. The only reason I built this larger engine for my car (3.8L to 4.2L) is for drivability. I had no problem making whatever hp I wanted with the 3.8 but the turbo required was slow to spool and was no fun on the street. I bolted the same combo to the 4.2L and the spool was back and the large cam that used to lope was no longer noticable.
I would suggest the Honda 3.7L as the minimum starting point if 1,000hp is the goal. See if there's a stroker crank out there that can push you into the 4L+ territory.
No Honda trans will work. No CV axle will work. No Honda differential will work, you're talking about a welded up no slip unit that sucks on the street and destroys handling. It won't be any faster through the 1/4 unless you're an extemely good driver. It won't hook below 140mph.
I assume it's the same way at 600, 700, etc.? And I'm guessing that 500Bhp is as fun as the TL can get on the streets until it just becomes a pain in the ass?
Sorry if I sound stupid, I like everyone else, am just filled with hope from this thread.
#951
Instructor
Thread Starter
You could not say it any better and I'm presently looking for something to move the limiter. If it's on the rpm it would send a different reading to the computer therefore giving us another 1k or 1.5k above the limit
#952
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
just a question, wouldn't we need to remove the limiter if we got that high of hp? i mean will the car just stop making power when it hits 135-155 cuz if not, wouldn't that make the car rev like crazy and then make it uncontrollable? sorry if what i just said makes no sense, not really a car guru like some but just something i was thinking of.
also, if we have auto trannys, will there be any disadvantages with our gearing? or will the turbo make the car rev past redline so we get the most out of the gears?
also, if we have auto trannys, will there be any disadvantages with our gearing? or will the turbo make the car rev past redline so we get the most out of the gears?
#953
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Deep 12s for a 400hp one with a good driver on a good street tire like a drag radial. The problem we're going to see if they're kept on pure every day street tires is the mph is going to go way up but the ET won't drop that much for the hp gained. Someone is going to have to step up and run drag radials at a minimum.
Last edited by anx1300c; 06-13-2009 at 12:26 AM.
#954
Team Owner
No top speed governor that I'm aware of as anx1300 said. With the fairly good aerodynamics of the TL and double the factory hp, you'll probably see another 20mph, putting it around 170mph. I can say that although the TL handles very well for what it is at speeds below 100mph, it just doesn't have the suspension to safely cruise at 140+mph. My suggestion is maybe an inch lower than stock, no more than that, some decent springs and a lot of damping from the shocks. Mine's a little skittish at triple digit speeds unless I have the Konis 5/8 of the way or more. Sorry to go off topic.
#955
Team Owner
I was in my friend's CL65 AMG yesterday and this Civic gave us a pretty good run from a roll, we only got him by about 4 carlengths and had to actually try to pull. This thing just dyno'd at 690hp with the new tune. My friend who is way too into looks and what people think told me to look at him and start laughing like we were having a conversation and didn't know he was racing. It was pretty gay but it goes to show how bad the underdogs bother yuppie mobiles.
#956
Area on my XM
#958
2008 335i e92 6MT
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so your saying we just dont have enough power to go past our current top speed? i've never tried to get that high cuz the climb to 120 in a base 5at is ridiculous enough but other than the S 5at, we can potentially go past 155 (which is the governed limit for most sports cars now huh?) with more power?
#960
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
The wastegate controls boost pressure. The BOV is just there for when you slam the throttle shut while under boost to prevent a shockwave reversing the flow of air through the turbo. It puts a ton of stress on the thrust bearing and can stop or slow the compressor.
In an auto you're not letting off the gas nearly as much as a manual and the compressor housing of the turbo in the pictures looks like it's the ported unit which lessens the need for a BOV.
I never ran one until the last couple of years and that's just because I have such a large volume of air with a huge intercooler and 3" piping and a $1,800 turbo. In the first 12 years or so I never had a problem without a BOV. It also makes what I consider a cooler sound than a BOV when you let off.
In an auto you're not letting off the gas nearly as much as a manual and the compressor housing of the turbo in the pictures looks like it's the ported unit which lessens the need for a BOV.
I never ran one until the last couple of years and that's just because I have such a large volume of air with a huge intercooler and 3" piping and a $1,800 turbo. In the first 12 years or so I never had a problem without a BOV. It also makes what I consider a cooler sound than a BOV when you let off.
we dyno'd a m3 today with 326/243....talk about torque deprived. only thing the m3 has going is the DCT tranny which is unbelieveable, but it still cant compare to the SMG, but the DCT will actually last longer than 30k miles