Group Buy for JnR ECU - Dyno's/Gains (12/23); Prices Posted (1/7)
03-19-2012, 02:20 PM
#1362
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^yeah i realized what i typed and i couldn't go back and edit in time 
and about hitting redline...i couldn't even get to it in 3rd gear...car just kept pulling and pulling all the way to 100mph. i think i got to like 6800-7000rpms. so...i was close to redline, but couldn't get there at a safe speed. guess i'll have to REALLY floor it next time to get there faster (no pun intended)
and about hitting redline...i couldn't even get to it in 3rd gear...car just kept pulling and pulling all the way to 100mph. i think i got to like 6800-7000rpms. so...i was close to redline, but couldn't get there at a safe speed. guess i'll have to REALLY floor it next time to get there faster (no pun intended)
Last edited by SharksBreath; 03-19-2012 at 02:31 PM.
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03-19-2012, 02:32 PM
#1364
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03-19-2012, 09:05 PM
#1365
Burning Brakes
good shit sharky...glad you liking the ECU!!!
03-21-2012, 07:36 AM
#1368
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iTrader: (33)
hoping to get mine dyno'd in the next few weeks. should i do a run with the J&R unplugged, and another run with it installed?
03-21-2012, 09:06 AM
#1370
04' tl 6 spd
Shippment came in yesterday but I wasnt home so today i will be going to the postal office to pick it up and installing it tonight. I have to pay an extra $121 for duty fee so if any Canadians are interested in this ecu it wil cost an extra $200 on top of the price for the unit. Sucks.
03-21-2012, 09:36 AM
#1371
All motor
Nice vids Sharky. Glad it's all coming together! And yes, definitely do runs with and without the ECU plugged in. Duh
Our stock redline is 6800. Is there any harm in consistently revving to 7200 on the stock valvetrain/rods/etc?
Our stock redline is 6800. Is there any harm in consistently revving to 7200 on the stock valvetrain/rods/etc?
03-21-2012, 09:45 AM
#1372
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Finished my J35A8 NA engine build this past weekend and am running the ECU once again. Tuning is going decently so far, but im running 13:1 compression for which ill be doing a compression test soon to confirm the math done before the work was completed, but the car runs great....it just knocks above 4 - 4.5k when over 75% throttle so definitely needs some race gas mixed as one might expect from such high compression. AFR is fine....Tons of power...crazy low end torque. Spark timing is conservative. Ill buy a few gallons and see how I do on 98 or 100 octane (more if needed) before I get too agressive. Pulled the plugs and they are looking good after 100 miles. More updates soon....
Last edited by gerzand; 03-21-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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gerzand (03-21-2012)
03-21-2012, 10:34 AM
#1375
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
I already made my own custom tune because I wanted to run more conservatively, but nonetheless my engine is still requiring a race gas mix.
Last edited by gerzand; 03-21-2012 at 10:37 AM.
03-21-2012, 10:35 AM
#1376
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iTrader: (33)
hmm...race gas. what mixture? and where does one source this?
is it only necessary if you have cam/head work, etc?
is it only necessary if you have cam/head work, etc?
03-21-2012, 10:36 AM
#1377
All motor
Very curious to see some vids Gerzand. Love to know how it's running and see what kind of numbers you put down. How is the top end with the cam? What are you revving to?
03-21-2012, 10:44 AM
#1379
takin care of Business in
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Finished my J35A8 NA engine build this past weekend and am running the ECU once again. Tuning is going decently so far, but im running 13:1 compression for which ill be doing a compression test soon to confirm the math done before the work was completed, but the car runs great....it just knocks above 4 - 4.5k when over 75% throttle so definitely needs some race gas mixed as one might expect from such high compression. AFR is fine....Tons of power...crazy low end torque. Spark timing is conservative. Ill buy a few gallons and see how I do on 98 or 100 octane (more if needed) before I get too agressive. Pulled the plugs and they are looking good after 100 miles. More updates soon....
So i guess you are close to your numbers which we spoke about couple days back ???
man i really wanna drive down to Canton and go for a ride in ya car dude !!!.....
if he puts 87 Octane gas in his car right now, the engine will prolly blow (hypothetical situation).....
03-21-2012, 11:21 AM
#1380
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
^^ Lets hope!
Yep, you run race gas to lower combustion chamber temperatures which helps prevent pre-detonation.
To my knowledge (please correct me if im wrong), another common option, ethanol, creates a larger volume of gases during combustion which results in more horsepower that soubled as a race fuel for many folks (besides running in your new flexfuel Chevy or Ford) due to its similar properties in resistance to pre-detonation as race 105 octance gasoline. It is less efficient than gasoline in its burn, and thus it is recommended that 30-40% larger injectors be run on the vehicle. For this reason, the fuel system (fuel pump at a minimum) should be upgraded as well. Ethenol does burn cleaner, though, which results in drastically reduced carbon buildup. Because its alcohol based, ethanol can have adverse effects on rubber or plastic based engine components if left sit for an extended period of time without driving. It can also clog up injectors. I might be running it at some point in the future to extract some more power from my setup, as there are many perks.
/rant
Yep, you run race gas to lower combustion chamber temperatures which helps prevent pre-detonation.
To my knowledge (please correct me if im wrong), another common option, ethanol, creates a larger volume of gases during combustion which results in more horsepower that soubled as a race fuel for many folks (besides running in your new flexfuel Chevy or Ford) due to its similar properties in resistance to pre-detonation as race 105 octance gasoline. It is less efficient than gasoline in its burn, and thus it is recommended that 30-40% larger injectors be run on the vehicle. For this reason, the fuel system (fuel pump at a minimum) should be upgraded as well. Ethenol does burn cleaner, though, which results in drastically reduced carbon buildup. Because its alcohol based, ethanol can have adverse effects on rubber or plastic based engine components if left sit for an extended period of time without driving. It can also clog up injectors. I might be running it at some point in the future to extract some more power from my setup, as there are many perks.
/rant
Last edited by gerzand; 03-21-2012 at 11:23 AM.
03-21-2012, 11:35 AM
#1381
^^ Lets hope!
Yep, you run race gas to lower combustion chamber temperatures which helps prevent pre-detonation.
To my knowledge (please correct me if im wrong), another common option, ethanol, creates a larger volume of gases during combustion which results in more horsepower that soubled as a race fuel for many folks (besides running in your new flexfuel Chevy or Ford) due to its similar properties in resistance to pre-detonation as race 105 octance gasoline. It is less efficient than gasoline in its burn, and thus it is recommended that 30-40% larger injectors be run on the vehicle. For this reason, the fuel system (fuel pump at a minimum) should be upgraded as well. Ethenol does burn cleaner, though, which results in drastically reduced carbon buildup. Because its alcohol based, ethanol can have adverse effects on rubber or plastic based engine components if left sit for an extended period of time without driving. It can also clog up injectors. I might be running it at some point in the future to extract some more power from my setup, as there are many perks.
/rant
Yep, you run race gas to lower combustion chamber temperatures which helps prevent pre-detonation.
To my knowledge (please correct me if im wrong), another common option, ethanol, creates a larger volume of gases during combustion which results in more horsepower that soubled as a race fuel for many folks (besides running in your new flexfuel Chevy or Ford) due to its similar properties in resistance to pre-detonation as race 105 octance gasoline. It is less efficient than gasoline in its burn, and thus it is recommended that 30-40% larger injectors be run on the vehicle. For this reason, the fuel system (fuel pump at a minimum) should be upgraded as well. Ethenol does burn cleaner, though, which results in drastically reduced carbon buildup. Because its alcohol based, ethanol can have adverse effects on rubber or plastic based engine components if left sit for an extended period of time without driving. It can also clog up injectors. I might be running it at some point in the future to extract some more power from my setup, as there are many perks.
/rant
As a previous poster indicated, why not try 100% meth injection? That could possibly bump the octane enough to get rid of the knock. Since you already have the ECU, I am pretty sure you just need the pump since it can progressively control the spray. Much cheaper than what most of us have with the separate controller.
BTW, I did see a small caption of a show where a race team was running some form of high ratio ethanol based cars. So it appears to be possible. If I can find it, I'll post it up.
Last edited by KN_TL; 03-21-2012 at 11:37 AM.
03-21-2012, 12:19 PM
#1383
Never thought about E85 but I just read a quick description of it. LOTS of considerations not only from the standpoint of an engine "designed" to use it, whatever that means, and the fact that it is conductive vs gasoline which isn't.
E85 ethanol is used in engines modified to accept higher concentrations of ethanol. Such flexible-fuel vehicles (FFV) are designed to run on any mixture of gasoline or ethanol with up to 85% ethanol by volume. There are a few major differences between FFVs and non-FFVs. One is the elimination of bare magnesium, aluminum, and rubber parts in the fuel system. Another is that fuel pumps must be capable of operating with electrically conductive ethanol instead of non-conducting dielectric gasoline fuel. Fuel-injection control systems have a wider range of pulse widths to inject approximately 34% more fuel. Stainless steel fuel lines, sometimes lined with plastic, and stainless-steel fuel tanks in place of terne fuel tanks are used. In some cases, FFVs use acid-neutralizing motor oil. For vehicles with fuel-tank-mounted fuel pumps, additional differences to prevent arcing, as well as flame arrestors positioned in the tank's fill pipe, are also sometimes used.
Last edited by KN_TL; 03-21-2012 at 12:30 PM.
03-21-2012, 01:08 PM
#1384
e85 is still kind of a mystery. everyone you talk to will always give you a slightly different take on it.
iirc walbro 255's are sealed and not a problem.
you def need above like 11:1 CR or you will likely lose power compared to regular 93, so NA guys aren't as far into it as the FI guys are.
and on the meth stuff...i am being kinda vague, but i do know where you inject it compared to the TB will affect the cooling vs the octane boost. it was a long time ago, but i read a great explanation on the audi forum before deciding to do water/meth myself. i'll see if i can find it
iirc walbro 255's are sealed and not a problem.
you def need above like 11:1 CR or you will likely lose power compared to regular 93, so NA guys aren't as far into it as the FI guys are.
and on the meth stuff...i am being kinda vague, but i do know where you inject it compared to the TB will affect the cooling vs the octane boost. it was a long time ago, but i read a great explanation on the audi forum before deciding to do water/meth myself. i'll see if i can find it
03-21-2012, 05:48 PM
#1387
04' tl 6 spd
I started installing my MS3 when I notice on my stock ecu there is no plug pins on the center plug and nothing plugged into it, my MS3 wiring harness has a plug to plug in to it. What should i do? i emailed Rodney and waiting for his reply but just wondering what you guys think. Should i install it anyway with that unpluged?
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03-21-2012, 10:01 PM
#1388
Burning Brakes
^ huh must be an older model thing or TL base only...my TL-S I had pins on all the plugs!!!
03-21-2012, 11:21 PM
#1389
I started installing my MS3 when I notice on my stock ecu there is no plug pins on the center plug and nothing plugged into it, my MS3 wiring harness has a plug to plug in to it. What should i do? i emailed Rodney and waiting for his reply but just wondering what you guys think. Should i install it anyway with that unpluged?
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03-21-2012, 11:33 PM
#1391
takin care of Business in
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03-22-2012, 06:41 AM
#1392
04' tl 6 spd
Last night I went and installed the MS3 left the middle plug unplugged. Hope for the best and disappointed. Car started fine but it was idling at 1800 and engine code came up. P0720 output shaft speed sensor and when I gave it a little gas it pinged ( I use 94 octane). So I unplug the ms3 hooked up my stock everything is ok. Rodney and I exchange email which i was really happy he replied quickly basically he said the plug issue is fine plug it in or leave it unplugged Dosnt matter. He doesnt know why I got that code. He said to plug it back in and go for a drive. What do you guys think help.
03-22-2012, 06:56 AM
#1393
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
I say right plug for the right ECU but if rodney says goes for it....
is that plug all a/t stuff? Can the ECU be told its on a manual car instead of an a/t so it wont look for those cables on that plug whatever they are??
is that plug all a/t stuff? Can the ECU be told its on a manual car instead of an a/t so it wont look for those cables on that plug whatever they are??
03-22-2012, 07:49 AM
#1395
04' tl 6 spd
I have an 2004 Acura TL 6 speed. I just emailed Rodney just to confirm what he sent me is for my application and that code worries me. If he says it's safe to install and give it time to learn the stock ecu then I have no choice but I trust him. I just don't think it's right idling at 1800 and driving around. I will keep you guys updated and all your help is appreciated. What do you guys thinks, and a fix for the code could be
03-22-2012, 08:02 AM
#1398
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iTrader: (33)
^his TL is canadian too, right?
or no?
or no?
03-22-2012, 08:06 AM
#1399
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
yes on the 06 models all plugs were used , the 04 manual only used 4 plugs the extra plug can be left out or just plug it the empty slot .......the idle should definetly drop after car warms up it should not stay at 1800 rpm all the time .....
03-22-2012, 08:40 AM
#1400
04' tl 6 spd
Yes I live in Canada but the car was build in the U.S.A. I will take pic and post of the harness. I did let the car warm up to normal temp and still revs high. Just want to know why that code came on. Thank once again. I just want this install without problems.