I installed these a few weeks back. Bisimoto custom J35A8 regrinds @ 297 duration on a built top end. Shits fast!!!!!!!!

But really, if ya'll have any questions about going cammed id be glad to answer. This is always a very controversial subject, and for no reason

 

Looks awesome man! I've always been an NA guy and hope to get a engine build going here soon for the track car. I might have to pm you with some setup questions.

 

nice cams. i might just go all n/a too but i love the feel of boost.

 

People are afraid of cams, but they aren't that hard to change.

Do you think I can safely run the Level 1 on oem springs/retainers? I don't see a problem with it. I know Ethanol was using the oem valvetrain.

And is their $722 price tag per cam, or for both?

 

Obviously cams with a tune would be ideal, but can the stock ECU adjust for more aggressive cams as long as they aren't too aggressive?

 

In for some good info.

 

Sub'd for learning!

 

Haha, why are those on your front lawn? And that's really not too bad of a price for cams...

 

The founder of Bisimoto is no joke. He knows his stuff.



http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...g/viewall.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisi_Ezerioha

 

hit the dyno yet? whats the numbers? do we have a 400whp NA car yet?

 

FYI he is running megasquirt. Oh and Gerzand is the man! intake is working great!

 

Very interesting. I like to learn more about this cams.

 

Wondering how much cam the stock ecu can handle

 

You can surely run the level 1's on a stock valvetrain and with stock injectors. The price is for both, not including shipping. You have to send a set of good cores (leaving you with 4-6 weeks downtime while they inspect/grind them) or purchased cores from Bisimoto and have zero down time.

It was a last minute attempt at "oh shit, im about to install these into the heads and never took a pic" haha. Its all good.... there is plastic between the grass and cams. lol

MAYBE next week at a regional dyno day...street tuned by me....but thats not for power. Im just tired of waiting for cold weather to tune on the dyno with.

I know for a fact it can handle stage 1's and strongly believe stage 2's, with the only exception being the stock ecu cant handle larger injectors because when they go to open loops its WAYYY too much fuel. Mind you, thats on 410's, so a base model guy might be able to run some RSX 320's and be good to go. You should try it out!

 

At 4-6 wks turnaround, I'd probably just buy the cores right from them, then try to flip my stockers. The $389 for the new cores really isn't bad, considering by the time I bought them from Delray ($332 + shipping) and then the cost of shipping them to Bisi, I'd be pretty damn close to $389 anyway.

How long do they take to change, roughly? And what kind of WHP gains do you think the level 1's will make on a bolted 3.2 6MT?

 

In for dyno info and some vids

 

^This

 

Gerzand I plan in eventually doing cams .. but maybe something in between the Bisi Stages. I doubt have a TL... I have the j30a4 accord.

What do you think about leaving the stock low cam lobes alone and increasing the high cam lobes only.

 

^ Like the TL-s cams

Way to go Andy. Those cams look great. In for numbers.

 

Let me hear those in vtec mode.

 

sub'd

these cams are set up for high compression motors but what if you wanted to add boost? Do you need a different set of lift and duration or is it all the same?

 

Thank you "gerzand" for sharing your project with everyone! I must say that I'm very excited to see the results of your very unique and well executed build!

I agree, camshafts for the J-series are not difficult to remove and install for a person who is mechanically inclined, however we do always recommend professional installation for those who are not comfortable doing such a job.

Bisimoto Level 1 camshaft can be ran with factory valve train, however I do always recommend investing on Bisimoto Pro springs with titanium retainers, being many times factory springs with higher mileage will not have the needed seat pressures for performance camshaft and can induce harmful harmonic issues and valve float. For myself, it is best to do so just for peace of mind knowing you will have a reliable setup for years to come.

The factory ECU can compensate for the Bisimoto Level 1 camshafts rather well and as for Bisimoto Level 2, I do recommend investing on a good tune to refine both fuel and ignition maps is always advised to gain superior power as well better drivability.

Thank you for your kind words!

I recommend with the factory ECU Bisimoto Level 1 camshafts, being that most will already have intake, header and exhaust. Beyond those modifications or Bisimoto Level 2 camshafts I do recommend investing on some type of engine management, along with tuning.

 

Who better to hear from than Julio @ Bisimoto?

The 3.2 TL/3.5 TL-s will respond better to cams than the Accord (atlas). Reason being not only displacement, but their compression ratio is a full point higher. I still have no doubts that with intake and exhaust mods that these cams can and will produce gains of 15whp. I'd expect little if any changes under 4K. Once the butterflies open I think there will be a few HP gain and once the high cam comes in (VTEC) is where the real gains will show. I'd bet the Stage 1 will make power to redline with bolt ons, even with the stock TB/manifold. Obviously with these upgraded, I think the power will extend to 7K or so.

To really make full use of these cams, a tune is needed. I pulled my plugs with my stepbrother yesterday and they were white (lean). I'm getting better gas mileage thus far and I've been going WOT pretty often because of the cool, dry weather

 

BisimotoJulio can I have the wagovan?!?!

And for upgrading the springs and such, what are you considering "higher mileage?" Mine currently has 53k, its a weekend warrior, with 25-30 legit 1/4 mile passes per year. Would probably upgrade them anyways, as I am super anal about my TL.

 

Julio do you have the stock cam specs so we can compare the difference to the stage 1 and stage 2

 

Should make more than 15 whp. Didn't ethanol trap like 107 or something with Stage 1 cams and bolt ons?

 

A new stage to reach 350 whp all motor!

 

A conservative guess I'd like to think on a full bolt on car, more like 20-25.

Yea apparently he trapped almost 108. He had weight reduction as well if I'm not mistaken. That's a crazy trap speed though, untuned.

 

He is a good friend of mine, and was 3500lbs with driver in is 6mt 3.2L w/Navi

Trap was 13.18 @ 107mph. He showed me the time slips from that day. He still had quite a bit of wheel spin with 275/40/17 bfgoodrich gforces.

This means he was at least 335whp to achieve that trap speed. Pure math.

He had the stage 1's, an FPR, port and polishing done to the upper and lower intake, as well as a SLIGHT amount of head work... but the head work was worth some good gains after some testing on his part. The car ran a bit rough on cold days.

 

^^ The same can be said to some degree even when tuned on stage 2's and tuned immediately following startup, but only for a few seconds. The cylinders need cleaner out a bit right after startup due to the agressiveness of valve overlap. I think in his case, it ws probably due to extra fuel.

 

^ Not sure what you're referring to there, Andy.

 

What is your question, and ill see if I can help you?

 

I've been thinking of doing cams...I juggled the idea of the TL-s cams and Stage 1s. While the TL-s cams seem to be a good, cheap option for the 3.0 Accord, I'm not sure if they will be 'enough.'

My goal is to break the 300whp mark with the 3.0. With my current numbers of 270, I see it as being completely possible with the addition of a larger CAI, Stage 1 cams and a tune.

One of my main questions is, when you had your cams in the 5AT TL, was the power continuous to redline? It says on the site they focus on the 1500-5800RPM range with the Stage 1s. Julio told me the Stage 1 cams would make more power than stock cams to redline, and of course I agreed. I just figured since you had them on the car, you'd know as well.

Also, I plan to stay on the stock valvetrain, so Stage 2s may be out of the question for me. However, I hope that the Stage 1s will be 'enough,' if you will. I've seen the duration/lift on some K series cams and they seem to be a good bit more than the Stage 1s. I know it's a different engine, and even still, the specs of the cam @.050 don't necessarily tell all as I've been told.

 

this thread is getting interesting.

I was already planning on doing manifold/runners in spring. I may have to look into the stage 1 cams now.

who wants to sell me a JnR so I can learn how to tune over winter !?!?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/j-r-ecu-859550/

 

well wouldn't you know it.

his is for an '04 though? Not gonna hijack this thread but I'm pretty sure that won't be compatible with my type-s

 

The cams do indeed make power nearly all the way to redline. I believe with stage 2's my peak HP was at 6500rpm.

From my personal experience with a Stage 2 cammed 5AT TL @ 3800lbs (with driver) as well as Keith with his stage 1 cammed 6MT TL a @ 3500lbs (with driver) they simply make power even without having a dyno graph by knowing Trap Speed in the 1/4 mi.

Here is the logic: If these cams didnt yield the horsepower claimed on Keith's car, then he (nor myself) would have had the trap speeds we did given gross weight. Please remember that trap speed is an indication of horsepower given a particular vehicle weight. Though you may already know this info, here is a snippet from someone who was able to explain the relation of trap speed to elapsed time (ET) very well. Anyone who truly knows drag racing will refer you to study these numbers given any car that goes down the track. Im hoping you dont see this as an attack. Just know that I referring you to these things that are well accepted in the industry:

From: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...d-here.567417/

"1) Trap Speed will tell you about your HP to weight.
2) ET will tell you more about traction and your launch.

Of course ET is important to true drag racers, because the winner is the one that gets there first. However, we're not necessarily true drag racers in our attempt to get a power estimate. Honestly, ask 10 guys at the track "What kind of trap speed are you running?" and 8 out of 10 will answer with their ET - to one or two decimal places even. When you say, "No, no, I meant trap speed", they will fumble with a broad estimate with NO decimal places and might even have to pull a time slip out of their pocket to check. Try this question when you're at the track; it's almost funny.

THE DYNAMICS OF TRAP SPEED VS. ET

After running lots of quarter miles, it becomes clear that how well you do in the first 100 feet of the track is KEY to a good time. The last half of the track is KEY to a good speed.

Let's use an example of a stick-shift mini-pickup that on a perfect run, gets a timeslip of 19.50 seconds at 70.00 mph in the quarter.

Imagine that the light turns green, the truck moves two feet and the engine dies for three seconds. After restarting the engine, the driver proceeds to then complete a perfect pass. His time slip would show 22.50 seconds at 69.97 mph. The ET was 3.00 seconds high but the speed was almost unaffected.. why?? It's because his racetrack was 1318 feet long instead of 1320, and in those last two feet this truck usually gains an additional 0.03 mph. However, the clocks recorded the long time. My point? Much of a great ET is made by a great launch.

Now take this truck again, and the driver leaves right on the green light. However, he misses the 3-4 shift when he's at 1250 feet. He coasts for the last 70 feet while trying to find fourth gear. Now instead of accelerating another few mph in this final 70 feet of the track, he decelerates over this distance. His timeslip; 19.51 at 67.83 mph. Note how the et is almost perfect (only off by 0.01 second) but the trap speed is way off (over 2 mph slow)! On a good run, traveling that last 70 feet at an average of 69 mph, would have taken .692 seconds. At a 68 mph avg., that 70 feet takes .682 seconds. That's why his ET only varied by .01 seconds, yet the trap speed was 'way off'. My point here: the end of the track is critical to trap speed; shift rpm, missing a gear... these are the big players.

Hopefully these examples are clear. Neither of these runs are 'perfect' runs, it's just that one has an error at the start, one at the finish and the results are obvious. The start of the track is a big player in the ET, but a small player in the mph. The end of the track is a big player in the mph, but a small player the ET. "

 

^ I definitely didn't take that as an attack. I do know the correlation between trap speed and ET, but that's a good writeup. Trap speed is 100% indicative of power. Hence why I'm more concerned about trap speed once I revisit the track

I'd love to see some cammed J series! I'd assume most of the gains would be after 4K. I would've thought you'd peak higher with the Stage 2 cams, but then again, you had a 3" CAI and ported TB/intake manifold. With a larger intake setup, you definitely would've kept making power above redline. I peak @ 6600 on the stock cams, but then again have the 3.7 TB/manifold.

I retract my previous worries that these cams may not make power to redline With the right setup, these cams should make power to 7K+ on the stock block...

 

LOL! That is one vehicle that Bisi would never sell, even if the world was offered to him!

My opinion it is always wise to upgrade springs and retainers for performance camshaft upgrades, regardless of mileage on engine. However on engines with low miles (under 50k) factory springs and retainers can do an okay job with a mild camshaft such as the Bisimoto Level 1.

 

Is the Stage 1 significantly more aggressive than the Type-S cams? I assume both engines would not have the same "Stage 1" cam, but what do I know?