I have swapped over the CL-S6 right and left engine compartment wiring harnesses. The underhood fuse box was attached to the passenger side harness, so that was swapped over too.

However, I was wondering if I could reuse my TL-P dash wiring instead of using the 2 CL-S6 dash wires. The dash wiring should connect to the stock TL fusebox, so shouldn't I just be able to reuse it? Or does the dash wiring connect to the ECU or engine compartment harnesses?

As for rewiring the dash, I need some help with the custom wiring harness. If I just swap everything over from the CL-S6, will it start and run ok? If not, what custom wiring is needed to get the car running?

Engine/tranny swap has been a breeze otherwise. Just this wiring that's driving me insane. Any help would go a long way.

 

Kris will be your saving grace. Most of us went the easy route and used the RV6 module

 

if you have the 02 tl type-s or non type-s trip-tonic the swap is not that bad.

in the engine bay on the passenger side is plug C101 and 102. the 10 pin and 14 pin. the 10 pin you can plug together. the 14 pin you need to remove some of the pin on the body side of the harness. in the 14 pin plug on the body harness side you need to short together the park and select wire. then wire to ground . this will allow you to by pass the relay for the start kill when in park.

now feed the wire harness end that has the ecu plugs on it through the fire wall. now were you stock ecu was the is a plug left there call the A31 plug for the ecu. the ecu for the manual engine (37820-pge-a11) you are using has a E31 plug from its body plug . if you look up the tech data on both, you will see the 99% of all the wires are the same between A31 and E31. get the E31 plug from the CL or its the same plug for a K ecu. then just play connect the dots .

my friend has alldata and when we did the swap for my friend it took about a week. it was more of a pain to put the engine and pedal than wiring the car . if you got more question hit me up . i have the info from my friends swap still.

 

Omg any more info would be great. I haven't found any info like this on the custom wiring.

So did your friend use the original wiring and just modify it? I was planning on swapping over all of the engine wiring and just hope everything plugs into the fuseboxes/Ecu.

 

you should ask freeaTLast what he did. I think he last person on AZ to do a complete 6 speed swap

 

I haven't seen freeaTLast in a while. Not sure if he's been on the board recently.

Fatty any help? Since I have the entire CL-S6, I was just planning on taking out the dash and swapping it over. That way I don't have to remove and install all of the dash wiring. However, in previous posts, you said to use the TL fuseboxes. So I can swap over the TL fuseboxes into the CL dash. Will that work out?

If I do that, is there any other custom wiring necessary to make the car be driveable?

 

help with wiring im on the same boat right now. were stuck wondering which wiring do i use from the cl6 and what i dont need to remove from the tl dash. if i swap over the cl wiring my rear windows wont work. and also which wire is the select wire and the parking wire. please help asap i need the car out of the shop. thanks.

 

I cannot get the car to fire up. For some reason its not sending fuel
My mechanic has the hds scanner and reprogrammed the immobolizer to the cl ecu. Immobolizer light is off meaning the keys should work. If we use the test probe to power up the fuel pump the car starts but for some reason im not getting the fuel pump whine when turning key to on position. Can anyone help please. And btw do i use the tl cabin fuse boxes or do i use the cl fuse boxes.

 

You gotta do your homework before doing this shit. Ok, here's what you need:

-CL-S6 MANUAL engine (Cannot be from an Auto)
-CL-S6 Tranny
-CL-S6 Engine Wire Harness
-CL-S6 Left Engine Compartment Wiring
-CL-S6 Right Engine Compartment Wiring
-CL-S6 Upper Dash Wiring
-CL-S6 Lower Dash Wiring
-CL-S6 Underhood Fusebox
-STOCK TL Dash Fuseboxes

If the car is cranking but not getting fuel, it's probably the immobilizer. The green light will behave the same way regardless of the immobilizer accepting/rejecting the key.

 

I know this is old and might be a long shot but im stuck here as far as wiring goes, can you pm this info?

 

 

Hmm, so this guy retained all of his original wiring except for the engine wire harness. Then he jumped C101/C102 to let the car start, and repinned the main ECU connector... Wonder if that would actually work well.

Initial thoughts are problems with gear selection, but I fixed all of that with simple wiring. I guess it depends on how much OEM functionality you want.

 

well i have a wrecked cl-s 6 speed im pulling everything off of so if i just need to change the left and right engine compartment harnesses i dont mind doing that. and from what youve said i can use all the wiring in the cl dash with the tl fuse boxes but how do i get the rear cabin harnesses to work since they are different plugs?

 

If you're going that route, then completely ignore the post above about changing and repinning plugs. All your front half wiring will be from the CL-S6, so it will all be plug and play.

The TL wiring will come up under the door sills and plug into the TL fuseboxes. Mostly everything will plug in, but there may be a couple slight differences. For example, my gas gauge wasn't working because the sensor wasn't getting ground, so I added that to the connector. Just a couple basic things like that.

 

 

Idk what to tell you man. It's in the electrical books but you said, "please don't tell me to just buy the wiring diagram books," so I'm not sure what to say.

I can tell you what I did to fix it. The ground sensor that comes from under the driver's door sill will connect to the driver's under dash fusebox, or maybe another connector. I took the end of that connection and grounded it to the bolt that the plastic trim under the steering wheel bolts to.

 

What electric books are yal referring to. I have the diagrams fro the haynes manual. Some in depth stuff would be nice. Im stuck at this point in my build but from what i have gathered. Keep the tl stuff for everything in the back and use the cl wiring harness to ecu and front panels. Is that about right?

 

you can't get any more in depth than the Helms service manual. you can find it here by searching for "1999-2003 service manual."

 

It's called the electrical troubleshooting manual. It has every diagram for the cars. You will need 1 for the CL, and a different one for the TL.

I wouldn't recommend messing with all the wiring. Just get an AEM EMS2 and it's plug and play.

 

The em2 works with the true swap oem with the repin? i have been reading lost of conflicting reports

 

No, the EMS2 doesn't require any repinning or true swap stuff. You just swap the auto tranny for any manual tranny, and the EMS uses the auto engine without modifications. All the wiring harnesses are kept from the original auto stuff.

 

I have the manual engine. Bought a cl and swapped everything. I would like the stad aone for tuning but the od ones didnt wor on thebtrue swap. Andnthere is confusing data on if the new one does. Aem2

 

Did you have a stroke while typing or something? Can't understand your third sentence.

If you want everything to work 100%, you have to use all the auto stuff and use the AEM EMS2. The true manual swap will leave a lot of electrical stuff disconnected without extensive repinning. The only downside to the AEM EMS2 is that it doesn't have OBD2, so it won't pass emissions. If you need OBD2, then just continue with the true manual swap. I'm not sure what you've swapped or where you're stuck, but you should explain clearly what you've done and what problems you're having if you want any real help.

 

Lol no i have big thumbs nd type 120 wpm on a real keyboard. It doesnt translate well on a touch screen. No its all good now. Learned to keep the rears the same but swap alectronics on th front. Just looking for tuning options now.

 

If you want everything to work 100%, you have to use all the auto stuff and use the AEM EMS2. The true manual swap will leave a lot of electrical stuff disconnected without extensive repinning. The only downside to the AEM EMS2 is that it doesn't have OBD2, so it won't pass emissions. If you need OBD2, then just continue with the true manual swap. I'm not sure what you've swapped or where you're stuck, but you should explain clearly what you've done and what problems you're having if you want any real help.[/QUOTE]


So I did my swap back in 2017 and she's still my favorite. It was pretty straight forward, thought it would be a lot more challenging because of all the chatter in previous research. Prior to my personal swap I led in my friend's 03 TL swap.
In all we have 3 swapped tls.
NB I kept all the auto stuff I switch the gear selector to neutral and tucked it neatly in the engine bay and spliced in a connector for my reverse lights. For a whole year I had no chec engine light. I was busy with work and sent the car to a shop to get it replaced and it came back with the check engine light on. This summer I'm going to reconfigure a few things give her a fresh coat in Pepsi blue do my interior in red and she'll be back to turning heads .

 

from what thefireball has stated, i am thinking we are all missing the significance of "connector e", which is attached to the instrument dash harness.

i could be wrong though and maybe the CL/TL differ in this respect. i was a little surprised, like fireball, no one really discussed this. even with the front engine harnesses, you're short one connector (i think).

this guy did it without the front left and right harnesses and needed connector E still, and i don't think it's attached to either the instrument or dashboard harness in the TL.

 

electrical manual on the way, but a lot of overlap between the 5AT "A" connector* and the 6MT "E" connector.


5AT connector A pinout 1

5AT connector A pinout 2

6MT connector E pinout 1

6MT connector E pinout 2

tons of overlap, but missing things like the immobiliser indicator light (not mentioned in the TL manual from what i can see).

EDIT: confirmed. the TL service manual deliberately does not talk about the immobiliser, but a side-by-side of the 20P 5AT connector on the CL should allow us to combine A+E to make the 6MT "E":


pinout for 5AT on the CL

pinout for 5AT on the TL

can't wait to get my paws on the 01-03 CL electrical service manual.


*this connector, if i understand it correctly, is NOT from the engine harness (which are "B, C, D")

 

Couple questions as I'm getting around to getting the interior wired up for things like the rear power windows and rear door locks. When you say that all of the front half wiring is from the CL-S6, does that include the front door wire harnesses and the interior fuse boxes? Or am I still going to be running the TL fuse boxes with the TL door harnesses? Just wondering because currently I have all of the wiring from the CL-S6 installed (including the rear harnesses) and had both front windows and moonroof working. Since I want to make the rear doors work, I went ahead and swapped out the front door harnesses back to the original TL door harnesses. When I did just the TL driver door harness, both front windows still worked, but when I swapped the passenger door harness only the passenger window worked and now the driver window and moonroof do not work. Fuses are good and I assume the relay is good since the passenger window still works. Going to swap in the TL underdash fuse boxes tomorrow and see if it changes anything, but is there anything I should know or repin while I'm there?

 

Not sure if anyone will see this, but today I got all of the power windows and rear door locks working, even with the driver's master switch. A list of what I used:
- 2003 CLS6 Engine Wiring Harness
- 2003 CLS6 Left Engine Compartment Wire Harness
- 2003 CLS6 Right Engine Compartment Wire Harness
- 2003 CLS6 Upper Dash Wiring
- 2003 CLS6 Lower Dash Wiring
- 2003 CLS6 Under hood Fusebox
- 2003 CLS6 Passenger Door Wire Harness and Passenger Door Sub-harness (Connects passenger door harness to passenger fuse box)
- 2003 CLS6 Passenger Window Switch (Replaces the TL Right Front window switch)
- 2002 TL Interior Fuse Boxes
- 2002 TL Driver Door Wire Harness

In my case I used ALL wiring from the CLS6, including the left and right side harnesses that run all the way to the rear. From the original TL wire harness I chopped off the B-pillar connectors that give power to the rear doors and kept all wires that connect to that connector. For the rear left window I de-pinned pins #2 and #5 from TL connector A on the driver's side (green wire and green/ blue wire). I then inserted the wires into the CLS6 Connector E pins #2 and #5.

2003 CLS6 Connector E at bottom right. Notice how pins #2 and #5 aren't used?

2002 Acura TL Connector A at the top left
As far as getting power to the rear left, I took pin #10 from from TL passenger side harness connector J (Connector J on the TL is the same as Connector I on the CLS6), inserted that pin into CLS6 Connector I pin #10 and ran that wire all the way to the white/yellow wire coming from the left B-pillar door connector. This will provide power from fuse #15, which on the TL fuse box is the moonroof fuse. So just swap the moonroof 30amp and left rear window 20amp on the passenger side fuse box. The last step is to take the white/red (the one that is between the black wire and the release tab) wire from the B-pillar connector and tap into the white/red wire coming from pin #3 on CL connector H. Just remember to take the black wire coming from the B-pillar connector and connect that to ground.

CL connector H is on the bottom left. Tapping into pin #3 gives functionality to the On/Off power window switch.
To get power to the left rear door lock all that's needed is to take the second B-pillar white/red (in between the light green/red and white/yellow wire) and splice it into pin #4 on driver's side connector H4. Then take that light green/red wire and splice it into pin #1 on driver's side connector H.


Here is the TL B-pillar connector that connects into the left rear door


CLS6 driver's side fuse box reference in case you're confused about me saying connector letters


CLS6 passenger side fuse box diagram

For the right rear window, I find it to be a lot easier.


Right rear door connector diagram.

TL passenger side fuse box. Connector A will be important as pin #6 provides power the right rear window and gets power from fuse 16. Connector A from the TL is the same as Connector C in the CLS6


CL Connector C on the top right

CLS6 Connector E on the top left will become important as these have all the wires needed for the power window on/off switch and the power door locks.

To get power to the right rear window, de-pin TL passenger connector A pin #6, #11, and #12 and connect pin #6 that to CL connector C pin #6, Connector A #11 to Connector C #11, and Connector A #12 to Connector C #12. To get functionality for the on/off switch get your white/red wire from the B-pillar harness and splice that into Connector E white/red wire coming from pin #14.

To get functionality for the power locks in the rear right, splice the light green/red wire from the b-pillar into the light green/red on Connector E coming from pin #17. Then splice the white/red into the white/red coming on connector E coming from pin #15. Again don't forget to ground the black wire.


As for the leftover wires I didn't bother trying to get the security system wired up, but I'm sure it's as simple as just splicing into the existing security system wires. The audio wires can be ran all the way up to the head unit or even spliced into the speaker wires coming out of the front doors. I already have an aftermarket system so I didn't bother with those.

If there's any questions feel free to ask away.

 

Helppppp I’m trying to get my car done before graduation and I’m stuck. I have the CL6 engine harnesses, engine fuse boxes, I have the cl dash wiring and the stock TL fuse boxes in right now but I can’t figure out what I should do. I have connectors that don’t connect should I take the wring out of the cl door harness or should I just re-pin cl connectors on these.

 

a couple of crucial things before you continue as this is how I did it. I would get a passenger door wire harness and a passenger side window switch from a 2003 acura CL. Doesn't have to be a 6 speed but any cl, base or type-s, will work. If you do have access to them, I would recommend de-pinning the CL connectors and swapping them over to the TL right side harness that runs from front to back. From the photo it looks like that harness with the brown connector and green connector are routed wrong, but when I get time I'll shoot a photo of my wiring situation and send it over so you can see. My custom work isn't as pretty as the OEM stuff but it got the job done lol.


For now have this photo of a 2003 Acura CL OEM wiring layout. I used this as reference when trying to route everything. Just having trouble remembering if that green connector is also originally there on the TL side of things. That white connector I know goes to the passenger door wire harness.

 

I’m new to threads so let me know if I’m doing anything wrong but thank you. Yeah I have a cl6 as a parts car so I can pull the wiring if that’s the best way to go but the drivers side looks different to should I just try to repin the dash or body side or did you do something different?

 

In my case, I pulled all of the wiring from a CL-S6 and put it in the TL. I think the only wiring I didn't pull was the tail light harnesses. The one piece of harness I did use from the TL was the connector that ran from the bottom of the B-pillar (located behind the trim and behind where the seatbelt rolls) to the front of the vehicle. I took apart the TL wiring loom, de-pinned the wires that provided power to the windows and inserted those pins into the CL harness that connect into the fuse box. However in your case you have the full harness in tact still so it should work fine. I think you need to depin some of that grey connector in the photo, but let me look through and compare the CL and TL service manuals so I can try and help point you in the right direction here.

 

Thank you! I really appreciate any and all info you can give me.

 

Okay I think I have your situation figured out in terms of your windows.


Diagram of Connector A on TL right side wire harness. Located directly next to the fuses.



Diagram of Connector E on the CL located way up on the fuse box next to the connector with a single wire coming out of it.

Looking at this to get power to the right rear window, in your case all you would have to do is cut the wire at the TL's Connector A pin #2 (WHT/RED) and splice it into the (WHT/RED) wire coming from the CL's Connector E pin #14. In doing so you're sending the signal for the ON/OFF switch from the power window master switch to the right rear window switch. I'm not sure if your power locks are working, but if not then you would cut pins #5 and #20 from the TL's Connector A and you would splice those into the wires coming from the CL's Connector E pins #17 and #15 respectfully. If you reverse the wire splicing on the power locks then the right rear will do the opposite of what you want it to do. There is a similarity between the power door lock and power window wire colors as they are both a white/ red wire (white wire with two red stripes), but the power window white/ red wire is a thicker gauge than the power lock's wire.


Right Rear Power Window:
TL Connector A pin #2 (Thick gauge white/ red wire) --- Splice into --> CL Connector E pin #14 (Thick gauge white/ red wire)

Right Rear Power Lock :
TL Connector A pin #5 (Light green/ red wire) -- Splice into --> CL Connector E pin #17 (Light green/ red wire)
TL Connector A pin #5 (Thin white/ red wire) -- Splice into --> CL connector E pin #15 (Thin white/ red wire)


If you're stuck like I was at first and no power windows are working, not even the sun roof, then you would need to replace the small sub-harness that connects the front passenger door harness to the passenger side fuse box. The sub-harness on the TL is missing a wire that the one on the CL uses as a signal from the fuse box to allow power to go to the master switch. And that sub-harness is also CL connector E so you can go ahead and add some t-taps while it's out so you're not fighting the tight space in the car.

Keep in mind that this is just for the right rear switch. I don't want to overwhelm you or confuse you by trying to explain the left side right now as there is a lot of overlap with the labeling of the fuse box connectors.

 

alright I’m getting ready to do that next but first time trying to deal with the drivers side I have all the passenger stuff ready but I want to get the car running. Right now I’m not getting fuel pump or the dash to work. I think it might have something to do with this connector am I correct about that or am I missing something? I think everything’s plugged in right on this side I still need to redo the drivers side connectors to the body harness though. Is this why it’s not starting? It cranks because I’m using the Cl ignition right now.

 

Seems to me like it won't start due to an immobilizer issue. My TL was able to start even without the left and right side harnesses hooked up, I used the original TL ignition and key. How I got past my ignition issue was I opened up the CLS-6 ECU and de-soldered the immobilizer chip. It does throw a check engine light but something cheeky I found out is that you can also de-solder your original TL immobilizer chip and swap it into the CLS-6 ECU. You can still start the car without the immobilizer chip installed, but it may crank for far too long at times. I don't think any of those connectors will affect the startup or fuel delivery of your TL as anything ignition or fuel related is powered from the fuse box. Let me do some more digging into what I can find because these plugs do affect some of the gauges.

 

If you want a simpler time to get everything working, and since you already have access to a full parts car, I would recommend swapping over the CL left and right side harnesses that run from the front to back. The CL is a similar sized wheelbase to the TL so there's no issues running that harness in the TL.

 

alright yeah I don’t know why it would be having an immobilizer issue because I figured since I was just using the whole cl Column right now it would just think it’s a cl but I was going to get the ignition re programmed I don’t really want to have no immobilized but if I have to I have to. I was going to ask if you thought it was just going to be easier to just take the CL harnesses I was hoping not but I have to I will.

 

My current concern is maybe it’s because I have no gauge cluster or OBD port any idea why? I think all my grounds are connected. But I don’t know why my immobilzer wouldn’t work because I’m using the CL ignition and ECU so it should work together. But I don’t want to remove that immobilizer until I at least get my gauge cluster working. Any thoughts?