When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you used all of the CL dash wiring the OBD2 port should be sticking out on the right side of the driver side kick panel underneath the steering wheel, so I wouldn't worry about that. I would recommend hooking up your gauge cluster just to see if you get power to it when you turn the key to accessory. To answer your question about the immobilizer, it's not the column that determines if it will work or not, it's the key itself and the ecu. The column just transmits the signal from the key to the ECU. So unless you have the original key from that CL and the original ECU it won't work. In my case I swapped my TL immobilizer chip over to the CL ECU and it worked out for me using the original TL key and ignition. This did involve some basic soldering skills, but it saved me from having to take the car in and paying to have it programmed.
Circled in red is the CL immobilizer Circled in red is where my TL immobilizer chip was
alright yeah I don稚 know why it would be having an immobilizer issue because I figured since I was just using the whole cl Column right now it would just think it痴 a cl but I was going to get the ignition re programmed I don稚 really want to have no immobilized but if I have to I have to. I was going to ask if you thought it was just going to be easier to just take the CL harnesses I was hoping not but I have to I will.
Swapping those two harnesses aren't that difficult. The hardest part is removing the back seat and some of that rear deck trim so you can route your wires properly.
If you used all of the CL dash wiring the OBD2 port should be sticking out on the right side of the driver side kick panel underneath the steering wheel, so I wouldn't worry about that. I would recommend hooking up your gauge cluster just to see if you get power to it when you turn the key to accessory. To answer your question about the immobilizer, it's not the column that determines if it will work or not, it's the key itself and the ecu. The column just transmits the signal from the key to the ECU. So unless you have the original key from that CL and the original ECU it won't work. In my case I swapped my TL immobilizer chip over to the CL ECU and it worked out for me using the original TL key and ignition. This did involve some basic soldering skills, but it saved me from having to take the car in and paying to have it programmed.
Circled in red is the CL immobilizer Circled in red is where my TL immobilizer chip was
update, I was able to get the dash on but still fighting no immobilizer signal so tomorrow I知 just going to remove the immobilizer chip and if that works awesome I値l probably just have the TL chip put back on the CL ECU
Swapping those two harnesses aren't that difficult. The hardest part is removing the back seat and some of that rear deck trim so you can route your wires properly.
makes sense yeah my electical books come in Tuesday so I might just look them over and see if it wouldn稚 be too hard to make the TL wiring work but if It seems super complicated I値l probably resort to the way you did it. I just really didn稚 want to pull the whole interior out of it I really appreciate your help on this whole thing I知 just figuring this all out as I go! I graduate high school next Sunday and I知 really trying to get it done so your suggestions have been massive help!
Idk if you know how to solder, but flux will be your best friend when it comes to removing that CL and TL immobilizer chip. Apply more flux than you think you will need, apply heat from a heat gun, and the remove the chip while the soldering tin is melted. I would recommend watching some youtube videos about soldering if you have very little experience or even asking a buddy if you know anyone that can do it. I wish I could guide you more, but I don't have my original TL harnesses anymore to compare.
Idk if you know how to solder, but flux will be your best friend when it comes to removing that CL and TL immobilizer chip. Apply more flux than you think you will need, apply heat from a heat gun, and the remove the chip while the soldering tin is melted. I would recommend watching some youtube videos about soldering if you have very little experience or even asking a buddy if you know anyone that can do it. I wish I could guide you more, but I don't have my original TL harnesses anymore to compare.
All good don稚 worry yeah I don稚 have any flux right now i might try to get some tomorrow or I値l just drop it at an electronics shop and have someone just pop it off.
I feel like I知 completely helpless at this point I知 stuck again. I知 still getting no power to the fuel pump. I知 like 90% sure I have everything plugged in right and grounded (except the body harness) but I知 not getting any voltage at pin E1i know my main relays are good I should have good grounds unless I知 missing one. I have two on the passenger side in the cabin next to the abs controller, 3 on the center dash area, the two mains then one single wire, then two on the driver side dash. Am I missing something else?
I really appreciate your help on this whole thing I知 just figuring this all out as I go! I graduate high school next Sunday and I知 really trying to get it done so your suggestions have been massive help!
