Okay so I've been getting an intermittent misfire, replaced fuel filter and fuel pump, would be fine then would go back to misfiring after a few miles. I called a shop, he didn't wanna start dumping parts in, but told me the coils look like they are on the way out, was able to drive home, decided to go for a bit of a drive as he ran it for an hour with no misfire, and after about 5 miles it hit again, all codes I got were for the passenger-side bank misfire, nothing driver-side. Any idea, gonna go try to get to the ground by the vss tonight

 

One other thing, I think it's misfiring lean, have lean codes and not smelling fuel from the exhaust. Leading me to think it's something in fuel delivery, anyone know how bad the injectors are to clean/rebuild

 

Check the vacuum lines. The fuel pressure is regulated by vacuum as well as the flaps in the intake manifold. Is it the same cylinder missing or multiple? Can’t really pinpoint it without knowing that first.

 

@J138 When you say misfiring only from passenger side, can you be more specific i.e. all three cylinders at once or only one but randomly from the three. I know you suspect the fuel system ( lean ). However to eliminate any possibility that coils and/or plugs are causes, I'll look into switching " good coils & plugs " from driver side and see if misfiring problems follow.

 

Okay, I'm getting engine codes for all three cylinders on that side, ended up going through the ignition coils, rotating where they are seeing if it would flip to the other bank, and it's the same issue. Ran perfect for 20-30 minutes, then misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3.

 

Now back to 1186KA9 's recommendation to check vacuum booster system for leak(s) as the resultant unbalance in air/fuel ratio can result in misfiring to one bank's cylinders.

 

Okay, will check either tonight or tomorrow. Sorry for being half in and out, was so burnt out this week did a radiator and thermostat on a '00 Monte Carlo SS and forgot to plug in the damn radiator fans. Any hoses in particular to check? I remember from the timing belt this engine has a hell of a lot of hoses everywhere.

 

Attached is diagram showing entire vacuum connections for the RL 1st gen. Vacuum connections are those numbered in SQUARE boxes. The items in ROUND boxes are the connected engine components. The list of of connected components included follows chronologically the numbers in the diagram. i.e. Round #1 is Left Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor .... Round #3 is Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor ... and Round #40 is 3 way catalytic converter.
If misfiring codes are P1200's or/and P1300's possible causes are numerous including ignition system, low compression, EGR system & injector circuit.
FYI, 1st time I do attachment(s) to a post , so hopefully all will show up.
Vacuum hose Rev1 No.docx

 

Do you have a scan tool that can give you the live fuel trim data? That might help to see if the computer is correcting for fuel/air issues.

 

that would be the best approach I had the same issue with my 2000 was running lean had a vaccum leak. Check the map sensor as well

 

Okay, I finally got some time I'm running the car until misfire to check fuel trims and I keep getting a new code PRIOR TO THE MISFIRE. P1316-1317. Reading through charm.li it's saying to check the spark plug voltage unit, is that the same as the ignition control module, I can't find any reference of a SPVU anywhere other than that page.

 

Here's a snapshot of live data still prior to misfire but running for about 20 minutes so it's coming up soon

 

Was not able to view docx. Files but will see if that's just on my end once I get back in

 

After an hour and twenty minutes sitting and driving around work's parking lot, no misfire. Going through my history of codes, there was an egr p0401 from months ago that got over looked, but nothing new today outside of those P1316-1317 codes if anyone has some new ideas on what could be causing the misfire, let me know. I'm guessing next is to save up for the ignition control unit/spark plug voltage detection unit

 

Check to see if the EGR is activated when the misfires happen. Also, the spark plug misfire detection is the computer in front of the bank 1 camshaft cover. You know the thing with the 2 connectors right next to the 3 vacuum lines and the throttle body coolant lines? That’s it. Also, the ignition computer is right next to the airbox and grounds to the bank 1 valve cover. They are 2 different computers. Just to be safe, check that the connectors and grounds are seated properly. I would clean the EGR though. That alone will cause issues and reduce performance.

 

You need to be at speed for the EGR to kick in as it is designed to reduce combustion temps at highway speeds.

 

Okay so after some digging on trying to find this spark unit, I came across this thread for a 1g tl (https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-1...module-684002/) After looking at the units this sounds even more like this 1G TL issue is mirrored here, I will clean the EGR as well, but the units even have the same 2 connectors as the tl issue here

This is the spark detect

And the ignition right?

 

Switch them around and you got it. My bad. Also here is the DTC guide

 

Okay, so next is check the wiring, and with your dtc chart, is it saying there's a second spark detect for the other bank? Or do all run through that module/there's an RL at a junk yard here '02 as well, should I just run and grab the modules to have before they cube it to be safe?

 

It’s the same computer. You found both computers. If you are going to the junkyard, I am willing to pay $30 + shipping for the OBD-II connector bracket and $50 for a set of OEM 6x9s in good condition.

 

Are you sure it's the same module? In that tl post he said he got the icm plugged it to the spvdm and it still caused the issue, I can see what I can do there's one posted today by me and another maybe 90 minutes South from me, I'm just worried about this pos other car I have to take down there

 

My bad. I meant that the car has only 1 spark plug detection module for bank 1 and 2. Not 2 different separate detection modules for each bank. The SPDM and the ICM are 2 different modules.

 

Okay that's what I thought. Anyone else want anything? I'm taking the front steering forks and the headlight ballasts. Maybe some other odds and ends. Just hope I can get there soon, work has me up to 105 hours this week so I might take a few days to get out there. The interior looked kinda trashed iirc, silver exterior, beat up a bit. Hope it wasn't my old neighbor's RL.

 

If you can check the OPDS unit in the passenger seat I’m looking for one with the updated part number ending in A14. I just signed up today so I can’t PM yet.

 

Where ya at? If you are in the south or out west, I'd be interested in the muffler if it is the OEM stainless one and if it isn't rusted to hell.

 

The yard I'm going to is on the west side of Chicago, considering my dad had the muffler fall off on the highway when he borrowed my RL, I'd say you're outta luck. Here's the web listing of it

Probably gonna take the 3.5RL badge, wanted to get a euro legend badge but oh well

 

Still pissed off at him for when he wrecked mine too, luckily it wasn't totaled. By the way I have the PS rack loose to the point it blows out my tie rod ball joints in a few months, is there a bracket that could've come loose or is the whole unit shot at this point. Slop in the steering and you can here it clunking going over bumps. Don't mean to derail the thread, but this has already been productive.

270k miles (at least) (had a busted vss so dead speedo for 2 years before I got her and the first year I had her)

This is what breaks my heart though, the fenders, both looking like crumpled aluminum foil now

 

For steering, you can adjust the rack gear via a massive bolt and a small bolt near the U-joint. From there, there are 2 M10x65mm mounting bolts/bushing next to the U-joint and a circular rubber bushing on the passenger side that is sandwiched by 2 U-brackets that are held in with 2 short 14mm bolts. You can get poly bushings for the M12 bushings on the driver side. Part number from durable.parts for the poly bushings is 081746A.

 

You're a savior man, but any idea to source the bushing for the U-joint? I gotta source a new jack, on piston blew out on me trying to get that radiator back in, so it might be a bit until I readjust the rack, but if I could get a new bushing I will. Or is that the other size bushing from that durable.parts listing?

 

The durable parts polys are for the u-joint. There are 2 for each bolt hole. There is one bushing on the right side that wraps around the circumference of the steering rack.

 

Rack Guide Adjustment from the SM.

 

Okay, I'm heading our Tues morning, if anyone else wants something let me know, or if anyone wants images of parts to inspect before I remove the part let me know and I can DM them