optimusaccord

Hey Utah, question... We have been talking exhaust, because we are wrapping up, and I have been thinking about replacing the mid pipe with a 3" and then lining up to the original y splitter.

I'm not really up on this, I'd rather do the single 3", but thought I would ask what you thought in regards to where the biggest choke point is on the oem exhaust. I am open to recommendations. Also, should we put in a flex pipe post the downpipe and cat?

They mounted the boost gauge/boost controller, on the side pocket by the drivers right knee, apparently it looks cool (haven't seen the car in like 5 weeks) and the boost controller is going to be mounted around the passenger strut tower.

Any suggestions/feedback?

UTAH TSX

The y pipe and stock mufflers are both very restrictive, I tried that first it was a 50 hp loss on the dyno, I don't recommend that but it will be the quietest way to do it.
Flex pipe not needed your down pipe already has one.

ssjoeboe9

This will look interesting!! I've been contemplating boost gauge locations for a while. Is this a thing for SC cars too or really just a turbo thing? I think boost gauges looks sweet!

iCrap

SC cars can use a boost guage also..

optimusaccord

S/C can use a boost gauge. The AEM is a boost gauge/boost controller in one... Looking forward to it.

ssjoeboe9

I'm trying to figure out whether or not it will be worth it to get boost gauges or not. Yeah it'll look cool to see the PSI, but idk how controlling the boost like you guys are doing would work for a SC.

Jaheri_cbp

You wouldn't control the boost on your sc setup with a 2 in one like Optimus' is doing with his turbo setup. That is controlling an actuator which regulates the waste gate which is internal on Utahs setup if I remember correctly.. I don't remember what turbo Optimus is running but a wastegate is typically what will control how much boost is held within a turbo... I've seen guys weld their stock wastegate shut on their stock turbos and then max out their injectors until their turbo/motor blew so they could rebuild it lol (I do not recommend this nor condone!). You would adjust your boost with a smaller pulley in a sc setup. And especially if you plan on more mods to your stock motor such as aftercooler, injectors etc I would highly recommend minimum, boost/air-fuel just for monitoring purposes. Your car will be far from stock at that point and you want to make sure you can visually see more that things are going ok under the hood..

ssjoeboe9

Thanks for that useful info! I saw after I did a little research that changing pulley size would increase boost for SC. Looks like the OE pulleys put it around 6psi. I really don't wanna underdrive all my electronics though. Def A/F gauge would be good to have, and maybe boost gauge to check for problems/leaks if you know you are always running around 6psi.

Wonder if the CT Eng SC has an easy place to put a peto tube.

Jaheri_cbp

You wouldn't underdrive the accessories at all if you dont want to.. You change the pulley size on just the supercharger, and keep the other pulleys stock.. I plan on going with the lightweight stock diameter crank pulley that xlr8 offers only which doesn't underdrive but drops some weight.. But I will go with what's best recommended with the setup I go with but has nothing to do with the supercharger pulley which I will prob modify as well lol. Off to go shoot my walther!!

ssjoeboe9

Going with ligtweight pulleys with stock crank pulley dia. is probably a good idea.

I wonder what the balance is between power (torque) vs speed on the supercharger pulley for the CT Engineering. Decrease the pulley size means you're gunna get the SC spinning faster (more psi) but at what power loss for initially turning the SC over at the beginning of take off. I'd imagine it would be like starting your car in second gear.

Orrrr we just buy whatever they recommend lol

UTAH TSX

If you want to do a ct supercharger Vit at vitviper tuning is the place to go he has lots of experience with them on the k series engines.
http://vittuned.com/tuning-products/aftercoolers.html

cu2-vtec

I wanna turbo mine haha

curtdragon

Okay read through this whole thing and I can't find what you are using to tune the ecu. I must have overlooked it and from what I have research there isn't much out there for our cars.
Edit I guess you are using the flashpro which is good up to 2010 but not for me =(

UTAH TSX

Yes Flashpro, if you want to do any engine mods it's 2009-2010 only for now

curtdragon

Yes I'm so very sad and I don't think it's coming

ssjoeboe9

Hey Utah, if I'm gunna run around 10psi of boost do you think it's necessary to get a new fuel pump?

MGCU2

You'll definitely want a better fuel pump man, our stock fuel pump won't be able to push near the amount of fuel out needed to get whatyou want out of any kind of boost, probably wouldn't work well at all

ssjoeboe9

Yeah that's what I was thinking, but I've gone through some threads over on 9th gen civic and about half of those guys are running aftermarket fuel pumps and the other half stayed stock. I was just thinking that the cte supercharger kit comes with 780cc injectors and they don't mention at all about upgrading the fuel pump.

Jaheri_cbp

I installed a walbro 255 on my wrx before even upgrading the injectors. My injector cycling levels were much safer than w the stock pump according to the logs and that was even before re-tuning it.. I was also pushing close to 250 wheel horse though on the stock turbo and those puny lil 440cc injectors were pretty much cycled out to the max. If you do put those big ass injectors in the whip I would highly recommend a bigger pump.. No downsides really to upgrading the pump if you custom tune except for extra noise on startup and the actual install because they r usually pretty cheap to upgrade.

UTAH TSX

For 150.00 bucks and a couple of hours work it's not worth taking the chance, 10 psi will take a lot more fuel than than the 6-7 psi that the ct comes with stock you will need an after cooler fore sure at 10 psi check out Vits it's the only one with a 2 inch core i believe

ssjoeboe9

I'm after cooling with merc because Marcus over at heeltoe has more experience with them. I may post the link to the pump I'm looking at and you can tell me what you think.

Also, let's talk about clutches. I don't see any upgraded clutches specifically for our car. Only the exedy oem replacement. Idk if that can handle ~300whp. What you think?

UTAH TSX

http://stores.axionind.com/drivetrain/
This guy is the place to go for performance parts very familiar with our cars he did optimusses limited slip and clutch setup

ssjoeboe9

Wonder why stage 1 was skipped?

optimusaccord

ssjoeboe9 - I replied to your PM.

If what I replied with don't make sense, please let me know. Still kind of waking up.

ssjoeboe9

Hey scott, I sent you a facebook message.

ssjoeboe9

Scott/Optimus have you hooked up an A/F gauge yet? I'm interested in how you're doing the install?

Are you splicing 02 wires? Or using a gauge that hooks directly to the OBDII? what units did you buy?

Considering all of my options.. I like the idea of an OBDII hook up, but Im also already occupying that with my HUD.

UTAH TSX

The stock reads off about .75 under boost so I use the eam failsafe wide band it has its own sensor and will cut boost if the AF ratio goes leaner than the target AF ratio

optimusaccord

I've been considering the aem fail safe also. I still have the leaking oil line issue. Got all over the turbo blanket, so that's a total fing waste. Have to get another one now.

I'm really running on hopes and dreams at this point, because this has just turned into one of those waking nightmares.

However, I do have a "drive around town slowly" tune from Vit... so I have that going for me.

ssjoeboe9

Ok so you guys gotta talk dumb to me. So you are inserting an AEM wideband sensor on your DP bung? Then running that to an A/F gauge? Then disable your OEM 02 sensor via the flashpro?

Scott post some pictures so we can see what it looks like and where you mounted it.

optimusaccord

We are putting a third o2 bung on my down pipe to allow for the factory pieces to be installed.

I really want mine to be able to pass emissions next year after it's all wrapped up with tuning. We'll see how that goes, but my 98 accord when it was turboed I was able to get it to pass emissions no problem.

ssjoeboe9

I was looking at this boost gauge and possibly their wideband A/F as well. Opinions?




http://www.ebay.com/itm/52mm-TINTED-7-COLOR-LED-SUPERCHARGER-BOOST-GAUGE-METER-/371076203923?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5665dd8593&vxp=mtr

UTAH TSX

Don't buy another blanket just clean it with 3-4 cans of brake cleaner then soak it in dish soap and rinse it really good
And what is up with the oil line that is the simplest thing ?? what oil line did you get ??

Joeboe those gauges are ok seen a few much less than the AEM make sure the wideband comes with the Bosch sensor and not a cheapo

UTAH TSX

You keep the OEM sensor the ECU and flashpro use it, weld another bung before the converter if you have one and put the gauge sensor there compare that to the OE one and adjust accordingly, mine was ok until I got over 10 LBS than it started getting further and further from the AEM readings (the wideband failsafe has dataloging built in so it is easy to compare) I used a pillar gauge bezel to mount my gauges you can see it in the videos on utube

iCrap

Eh that boost guage looks like the chineese eBay special... get something better lol.

ssjoeboe9

I've heard good things about it from other people online, especially since boost gauges just read static pressure.

@utah.. So I gotta make another hole in my rv6 downpipe? Right next to the one they already made?

So then when I street tune with Vit, I log both aftermarket readings and oe sensor readings? What I don't understand, is if the oe sensor is wrong how do you adjust the map? Unless it is always linearly wrong by some ratio? Because you supply fuel based on that sensor correct? Or is it always in the calibration to run a certain A/F ratio @ rpm,gear, vtec no matter the reading from the sensor?

UTAH TSX

Yes under hard acceleration it it goes to the map voltage scale for fuel and timing (open loop)
Stagger the sensor bungs don't put one sensor right in front of the other

ssjoeboe9

I'm really trying to understand I promise lol

So the wideband sensor is really only there to initially tune the setup. Because under hard acceleration it will always just refer back to the numbers set within the table when you tuned your car... then under normal load it adjusts according to what the oe sensor is reading?

UTAH TSX

Exactly, just compare the gauge and hondata log make make sure they are close at under 10 PSI you should be very close to the same on both, on mine after 10 PSI the oe sensor read leaner and leaner the more boost I gave it I run 16 PSI now all the time if I turn it down it's just no fun

optimusaccord

What is the AF like at 16 PSI?

UTAH TSX

Mid eleven's from 13 PSI up