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Ok so I've done plenty of searches on this topic and found loads of useful information. My trunk will no longer open by pressing either the remote or the trunk release button on the driver side door. I checked the fuse and is fine. Checked the valet lock out switch in the glove compartment, it's off. When I press the release (either on the remote of driver side door button), I do hear a slight clicking sound by the fuse box and the trunk lock area but it just doesn't disengage. Sounds like a mechanical problem.
Noticed alot of people experienced this similar problem as well but didn't see any definite resolution or follow up from their fix. Can someone comment on what they did to resolve this problem? I'm considering buying the complete LOCK, TRUNK (HANDLE+PWR+SW) assembly for around $70 but before I take the plunge, wanted to make sure that would indeed fix the problem. I don't want to buy this thing and found our it still won't work and having to go through the hassle of returning, etc.
pull the emergency release- reach thru the pass thru and pull the little handle
If the truck doesnt open- you have a real problem. If it does, now you can see the parts and try the switch. Does anything move?
ASKING the parts guy and the service manager if this has happened before, what part does it really need? Is there a TSB on this maybe?
Call acura and ask them if other reports or TSB given to the dealer that address your problem
1-800-382-2238 x5
Others have had this problem and it turned out to be the actuator in the latch that needed replacement. Use the trunk release in the trunk like stated above to open it and check that out.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I know how to open the trunk without using the remote or button on the driver door. Since I have a baby seat in the middle rear location, it becomes very difficult to try and reach into the trunk access and pull the release lever everytime I need to get the trunk to open. That's why I wanted to get it permanently fixed.
So if the actuator is broken, then it sounds like I could go ahead and buy that trunk lock assembly to fix this problem. Ordering....
I still have not heard or read any posts that clearly address the process of trouble shooting this issue.
So far, I have tested continuity on the door switch and confirmed that there is power coming to the latch when i press the button on the fob.
I have purchased a salvaged unit but no luck.
I'm going to look into if there is some other voltage situation that controls the solenoid in the trunk.
the hunt goes on.
So far I have replaced the latch, which did not work.
Checked continuity at door switch. switch was good trunk still not working.
Checked switch at glove box, (still good) trunk still not opening.
there is voltage getting to the latch, apparently not enough.
I've checked the harness to the molex connector in trunk from back seat.
no breaks or pinches.
I'm going to keep digging, hope to report positive results soon.
So far I have replaced the latch, which did not work.
Checked continuity at door switch. switch was good trunk still not working.
Checked switch at glove box, (still good) trunk still not opening.
there is voltage getting to the latch, apparently not enough.
I've checked the harness to the molex connector in trunk from back seat.
no breaks or pinches.
I'm going to keep digging, hope to report positive results soon.
Not yet. Pulled back seat and gutted trunk. Searched for broken wire in harness at the motion point. No luck. I gave up for the time being. Picked up an Acura electrical troubleshooting manual from eBay, and once it gets here I'll start that project again. By the I also picked up a latch from a salvaged TL and no luck
To be continued.
The problem on my '99 TL was both the key and door switch work but latch would not open. The manual release just through the rear hatch also didn't release the latch. After removing the rear seat back, I was able to pull the manual release cable at the latch and it released and I could open the trunk. I then removed the plastic cover from the latch along with the inside lining of the truck lid by prying loose the tabs that hold it in place. After inspection, the manual release cable was not in the cable support on the bracket (explains why the manual release was not working). After reinstalling this cable into the support, I manually closed the latch with a screw driver and with the trunk open - neither the key button or door switch would release the latch. I sprayed WD40 on the latch mechanism and presto. No more problems. Hope this "quick" fix lasts.
i just was faced today with the same issue... trunk was royally stuck... check the glovebox switch.. nope..
I was well aware of the manual release inside the trunk via the armrest opening... no joy...
I was about to get ready to remove the back seat and get to the locking mechanism..
then ... i though of taking a broomstick... poked & prodded the lock mech general area ,, nudged it left and right.. and bopped it some more... LOL
go to the driver door trunk release ......and you guessed it... pop goes the trunk.... O_O
I find it odd for this to happen.. as a good dose of lube is part of my general maintenance
re-lubed the lock mech and tested to manual release and it worked fine, however i notice that it took quite the pull to get it to work.. it may be possible i wasnt tugging on it with enough force... maybe.....!?!
Hope this may save someone a trip to the dealership..
J.
I had this issue and replaced the trunk release button on the dashboard and replaced the trunk release/lock 🔐 button inside the glovebox. It turned out to be a broken switch inside the glovebox. Trunk pops open as good as new now.
Ok so I've done plenty of searches on this topic and found loads of useful information. My trunk will no longer open by pressing either the remote or the trunk release button on the driver side door. I checked the fuse and is fine. Checked the valet lock out switch in the glove compartment, it's off. When I press the release (either on the remote of driver side door button), I do hear a slight clicking sound by the fuse box and the trunk lock area but it just doesn't disengage. Sounds like a mechanical problem.
Noticed alot of people experienced this similar problem as well but didn't see any definite resolution or follow up from their fix. Can someone comment on what they did to resolve this problem? I'm considering buying the complete LOCK, TRUNK (HANDLE+PWR+SW) assembly for around $70 but before I take the plunge, wanted to make sure that would indeed fix the problem. I don't want to buy this thing and found our it still won't work and having to go through the hassle of returning, etc.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated
axleback
I had an issue as well with my trunk not opening as well from either the key fob or the interior trunk button so I found a wiring diagram so what I did first was to see if I had power coming from the battery to the #8 20A fuse which is located under the driver side kick panel near the hood latch, so I checked and I had power at the fuse so then I went from the fuse to the interior trunk button (white wire) and still had power so after that i went from interior trunk button (yellow & green wire) to the glovebox on/off switch and still had power so then I checked from the glovebox switch (blue wire) to the trunk release actuator (blue wire) and still had power threw the circuit ,but you can only check it if you push the switch in on the interior trunk release or the trunk release on the key fob so at that point I knew I had power in that part of the circuit so then i started to check the ground (black wire) from the trunk relase acuator to chassis ground (black wire) and found there was an open / break in the wire on that part of the circuit which caused the trunk not to open you can also check continuity on both the power side and ground side of the circuit you will just have to isolate what you are testing.
So there is a diode on power and ground side as well but I am not sure what that will effect if it were to fail mine was good.
Hope this helps have a good day.
FancyAcuraTL, you resurrected a thread from 14 years ago. Id doesn't look like you have a problem but in response to your comment on the diode, it appears as if the diode is in there for reverse voltage protection. If the battery input was reversed the diode would conduct and shunt the current to ground and the Trunk solenoid would be protected.
So its been a year since the last post. This is what I got:
My trunk will not open with the button at the left door and does not open by the key fob. Yes the glove box is switched on. Ok but heres the weird part!! It does work sometimes. Most times it doesnt. Here is the super weird part, it always works as long as you dont close the trunk all the way. So as long as the trunk does not latch, you can press the release on the fob and hear the latch actuate. What the heck is that? I check for dead bodies and found none. Soon as you shut the trunk it will do nothing. But dont close it all the way and it works the latch from either button. ????? Does that make any sense? Help me ahahahahahahhahah. I did take the cover off the trunk and lubed everything up. No effect.
So its been a year since the last post. This is what I got:
My trunk will not open with the button at the left door and does not open by the key fob. Yes the glove box is switched on. Ok but heres the weird part!! It does work sometimes. Most times it doesnt. Here is the super weird part, it always works as long as you dont close the trunk all the way. So as long as the trunk does not latch, you can press the release on the fob and hear the latch actuate. What the heck is that? I check for dead bodies and found none. Soon as you shut the trunk it will do nothing. But dont close it all the way and it works the latch from either button. ????? Does that make any sense? Help me ahahahahahahhahah. I did take the cover off the trunk and lubed everything up. No effect.
You really think Latch even though it works long as the Trunk doesn't close? Possible I guess just was hoping there was a switch gone bad or something. Maybe I should have my wife point at the problem with a stick since wives know all. Just odd stops working when shut. Thanks though.
Well if youre brave enough to show your face on here then maybe you might be ok. Unless thats a picture that came with your wallet. so this is upsidedown. BUT the gap in the trunk is when the light goes out and I can not actuate the latch anymore. Soon as the light goes out it stops working before its fully closed. pic of latch doing what it does best. Sits there and wants to be smashed with a hammer. Pic of the horrible working conditions. upsidedown thanks acura....lol sprayed it like it was a cockroach.
So i slept on it and it made me dizzy. The trunk door when open lifted up posistion will actuate with the fob. I can here it working the latch. I even used a screwdriver shaft to to close the latch and while its open it will unlatch with the fob. BUT SOON AS ITS CLOSED ITS STOPS WORKING. lolololol
So i slept on it and it made me dizzy. The trunk door when open lifted up posistion will actuate with the fob. I can here it working the latch. I even used a screwdriver shaft to to close the latch and while its open it will unlatch with the fob. BUT SOON AS ITS CLOSED ITS STOPS WORKING. lolololol
If I recall correctly, the solenoid needs to open a latch and also push away from the catch loop to open; and again, just because it works when the trunk is open doesn't mean that it will work in the trunk is in the closed position because of the loads/forces being applied to the components. you can use a multimeter to test the continuity of the connections at the trunk opener, but honestly I think you're best to buy the replacement and not spend any more time on it.
If I recall correctly, the solenoid needs to open a latch and also push away from the catch loop to open; and again, just because it works when the trunk is open doesn't mean that it will work in the trunk is in the closed position because of the loads/forces being applied to the components. you can use a multimeter to test the continuity of the connections at the trunk opener, but honestly I think you're best to buy the replacement and not spend any more time on it.
I hear you. Its the same thing I thought. Except the light would go out before the trunk was closed like 6 inches away and the fob would stop actuating at the same time. Which made me think that something was killing the power, which would mean electrical. So this time I followed the wires down along the trunk hinge taking apart the plastic cover. I saw nothing. Folowed some more and I had to try and remove the trunk liner on the left side. The one fastener on the back under a fold I have no idea how to remove that. So I did my best to get my fat head into the area of where the wire harness was at. I used a LED light cause they are bright and bitchen. I saw nothing and with my limited reach and limited on how much I could operate, I saw where the trunk harness took a bend. While opening and closeing partly the trunk I could see that this part of the harness would move. So I figure good chance this could be a spot that had 20 years of movement and tried to move it while looking at the trunk light. Well i could move it into a posistion where the light would go out. So I tried the fob and I got the same result. I unhooked the harness from the clip holding it to the upper trunk area and tried to get it in a place where it would not bend from that spot. After some hit and miss I got it to keep the light on and the fob would work with the trunk almost latched. I slammed the trunk and tried it while my wife laughed at me. Oh it worked. I open and shut it 10 times and worked every time. So I put it all back together and it STILL WORKED. If it stops working again I know exactly what it is. Just need to vaccum the trunk. DONE> Pointing at bend where suspect bad wire unclipped the harness for free movement pointing at suspect area of harness
I don't know how to say it in chinese.....I am too big to fit in such a small spot all the way in back of trunk. So that's it until I find a midget to get in there and operate.
i don't know how to say it in chinese.....i am too big to fit in such a small spot all the way in back of trunk. So that's it until i find a midget to get in there and operate.
so I haven’t found a release lever anywhere on my 97 rl this is crazy because I of course got a flat today when I was unable to get into my trunk to get to my spare. Please someone help me out here cause I’ve literally tried everything
Not familiar with a 97 RL but did you hold down the truck release button on the remote for 5 or more seconds?
also in the RL section an old thread says there is cable loop located above the little rear seat door it said on the top right corner. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2...elease-809538/
Found the issue..thanks for all the advice
