Car Misfire/Stalling/No Start - HELP
05-08-2018, 03:29 PM
#161
^^^ In very first comment in that video it say what is problem. Clean that idle valve, or what else is name. Btw you had just bad luck with yours tl. My is best car that I ever had.
05-08-2018, 03:45 PM
#162
Thanks again.
05-08-2018, 04:04 PM
#163
^^^ You are right. You need not clean it than. I strongly would agree that there is some underlying problem. IMO google is yours friend. Before a few year my pickup started misfire at a couple cylinders and cylinders nr changed all times. I googled it - sit of my two coil packs was rusted. All that I did is sand it with wire brush and apply dielectric grease - problem solved. Without google I would never ever find such problem. Googling and testing is only way for you now. Know to play with voltmeter is huge plus here, for example every ground you can check with voltmeter in no time. Last option would be go to dealers computer to find what is problem. I give long time go at changing parts without testing, I do lot of testing and minimum of replacing.
Last edited by bbsitum; 05-08-2018 at 04:13 PM.
05-08-2018, 04:06 PM
#164
^^^ You are right. You need not clean it than. I strongly would agree that there is some underlying problem. IMO google is yours friend. Before a few year my pickup started misfire at a couple cylinders and cylinders nr changed all times. I googled it - sit of my two coil packs was rusted. All that I did is sand it with wire brush and apply dielectric grease - problem solved. Without google I would never ever find such problem. Googling and testing is only way for you now. Know to play with voltmeter is huge plus here. Last option would be go to dealer computer to find what is problem. I give long time at changing parts without testing, I do lot of testing and minimum of replacing.
05-08-2018, 04:11 PM
#165
^^^ Way to go. Just to give you idea of my approach this days see shortly here, just happened this weekend. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-sticking.html . Do 9 parts of testing and googling and one part of actually fixing or "fixing". I personally spent a lot time to for ex replace cylinder head gasket only to figure out that actually head is broken. It happen at my former acura legend. You definitely have a problem that is difficult to figure out. None of us can't spend hours googling for you. I can guess at this moment plugged egr valve passage, but it is 1 in 100 shoot.
Last edited by bbsitum; 05-08-2018 at 04:15 PM.
05-08-2018, 08:01 PM
#166
Burning Brakes
This is NOT my video, but exactly what it is doing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VH3TRbfuKk
The idle air valve was replaced. Is it an Acura part, no, I agree and I apologize to 01acls.
Note the comments at the bottom of video.
Thank you.
The idle air valve was replaced. Is it an Acura part, no, I agree and I apologize to 01acls.
Note the comments at the bottom of video.
Thank you.
05-08-2018, 09:04 PM
#167
Glad to hear the Acura Dealer is willing to look at the problem, for free. That's a major accomplishment, in itself. I wouldn't be too quick, to sell them short. You say, "Jackasses at Acura", seems to me, you may be predisposed, on the Negative side! That's not usually a good thing. They are obviously aware, of your frustration. Try not to display it. If possible, ask them if it you might speak with the Technician, directly. Sometime, putting a face to the subject car, helps. Be sure to thank the Technician, for his services. Routinely, this idle problem, is the result of a faulty IACV. However, there may be other contributing causes, as well. "ie" TPS, Cooling system, Vacuum leak, etc. The Snap-On, and other diagnostic tools, will display what is happening, at any given moment, in real time. They will show, exactly what the ECU is commanding, and how the commanded component, is responding. Would I pay the going rate, to have a Honda trained, Certified Technician, diagnose a problem I can't identify? Absolutely. The "FREEBIE", is frosting on the cake. Cheers
I will keep you posted. Thanks again!
05-09-2018, 08:30 AM
#168
Glad to hear the Acura Dealer is willing to look at the problem, for free. That's a major accomplishment, in itself. I wouldn't be too quick, to sell them short. You say, "Jackasses at Acura", seems to me, you may be predisposed, on the Negative side! That's not usually a good thing. They are obviously aware, of your frustration. Try not to display it. If possible, ask them if it you might speak with the Technician, directly. Sometime, putting a face to the subject car, helps. Be sure to thank the Technician, for his services. Routinely, this idle problem, is the result of a faulty IACV. However, there may be other contributing causes, as well. "ie" TPS, Cooling system, Vacuum leak, etc. The Snap-On, and other diagnostic tools, will display what is happening, at any given moment, in real time. They will show, exactly what the ECU is commanding, and how the commanded component, is responding. Would I pay the going rate, to have a Honda trained, Certified Technician, diagnose a problem I can't identify? Absolutely. The "FREEBIE", is frosting on the cake. Cheers
so.....do I replace the aftermarket valve I installed 2 months ago with a Honda part or.........
05-09-2018, 02:08 PM
#170
Acura said Idle Air Control Valve.
Took it to my loca mechanic and he put it on.
Get a look at this pic. Bad enough it was cheap part, but previous installer got heavy on the sealer (no reason to use).
05-09-2018, 02:50 PM
#171
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...g-iacv-927263/
Looks like they are $55.61 on Amazon.
The following users liked this post:
frankjnjr (05-10-2018)
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zeta (05-09-2018)
05-10-2018, 07:08 AM
#173
Burning Brakes
INTERESTING, you have had SO much work done on your car, it is more than reasonable, to Suspect, that somewhere along the repair chain, someone may have done something incorrectly, and or used a poorly, or non functioning replacement part. Any time, an issue, with any car, is not "clear cut", and or easily identifiable, IMO, it's best to take the car to someone intricately familiar with that specific type car. Yes, it's generally more costly, to seek out expert advice, but it normally pays off, in the long run. How is it running now?
05-10-2018, 08:04 AM
#174
INTERESTING, you have had SO much work done on your car, it is more than reasonable, to Suspect, that somewhere along the repair chain, someone may have done something incorrectly, and or used a poorly, or non functioning replacement part. Any time, an issue, with any car, is not "clear cut", and or easily identifiable, IMO, it's best to take the car to someone intricately familiar with that specific type car. Yes, it's generally more costly, to seek out expert advice, but it normally pays off, in the long run. How is it running now?
05-10-2018, 08:10 AM
#175
Burning Brakes
Congratulations Domenic, glad to hear the mystery is solved. I guess, your going to go ahead with the TB service shortly. I think, now that your car is running properly, you will be more than pleased, with what this car has to offer. Again, thank you for keeping the forum up-dated on your progress.
05-10-2018, 09:14 AM
#176
Thanks, Frank. Yeah, the timing belt service is due next. I have some traveling for working coming up. First to Mexico City, then to Philippines. So I envision doing the job in about 6 weeks. I need a break right now! Ha!
I like to thank everyone who has helped me. You, Iggy, 01acls, Zeta......Many others!!! You're the best. And....stay tuned!
I like to thank everyone who has helped me. You, Iggy, 01acls, Zeta......Many others!!! You're the best. And....stay tuned!
05-14-2018, 09:21 AM
#177
Final Analysis
After driving the Acura on both highway and city trips within the last week, it appears all issues are now resolved. The Acura runs VERY strong and the way it should perform.
My conclusion is: All along, the Acura needed a Fuel Pressure Regulator. Prior to replacing the FPR, I replaced several parts due to the misfire codes, parts such as: plugs, coils, injectors, idle air valve. Speaking of the idle air valve, that probably never needed to be changed as it was the FPR all along.
The original issue continued to occur after the idle air vale was replaced. The issue stopped occurring after the FPR was replaced.
Although, as you can see from last week, the replaced idle air valve needed to be replaced, because the one installed months ago was literally gunked up and fouled due to some type of sealer applied (permatex?).
I believe the idle air valve was not part of the original problem and the part didnt need to be replaced, but became a problem after the fact.
I believe the FPR was the culprit all along.
I spent alot of money and time chasing down this problem. If I would have started with the FPR, I guess I would have more money in my bank right now. However, on a positive note: I have new spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, engine coolant temp sensor, cleaned EGR ports and EGR valve, idle air valve, and fresh transmission fluid (the transmission shop decided to do a courtesy fluid change when I brought the Acura back to them, even though they said it was not transmission related, which it wasnt).
Thank you again as I cannot say how I have appreciated your expertise, opinion, back-and-forth, education, and time spent in replying to me. I wish you the best.
After driving the Acura on both highway and city trips within the last week, it appears all issues are now resolved. The Acura runs VERY strong and the way it should perform.
My conclusion is: All along, the Acura needed a Fuel Pressure Regulator. Prior to replacing the FPR, I replaced several parts due to the misfire codes, parts such as: plugs, coils, injectors, idle air valve. Speaking of the idle air valve, that probably never needed to be changed as it was the FPR all along.
The original issue continued to occur after the idle air vale was replaced. The issue stopped occurring after the FPR was replaced.
Although, as you can see from last week, the replaced idle air valve needed to be replaced, because the one installed months ago was literally gunked up and fouled due to some type of sealer applied (permatex?).
I believe the idle air valve was not part of the original problem and the part didnt need to be replaced, but became a problem after the fact.
I believe the FPR was the culprit all along.
I spent alot of money and time chasing down this problem. If I would have started with the FPR, I guess I would have more money in my bank right now. However, on a positive note: I have new spark plugs, coils, fuel injectors, engine coolant temp sensor, cleaned EGR ports and EGR valve, idle air valve, and fresh transmission fluid (the transmission shop decided to do a courtesy fluid change when I brought the Acura back to them, even though they said it was not transmission related, which it wasnt).
Thank you again as I cannot say how I have appreciated your expertise, opinion, back-and-forth, education, and time spent in replying to me. I wish you the best.
03-25-2019, 12:59 PM
#179
Folks.......IT IS BACK.
Hot restart problems has resurfaced!
Experienced a lot of trouble yesterday during hot restarts. When car was cooled off - NO problems starting/misfiring at all. Car drove BRAND NEW with zero problems. No need to go into further details, as the symptoms have been explained in this post previously - same symptoms again - car misfires/stalls/has trouble starting during hot restarts only.
Allow me to provide an update on recent maintenance/repair. A few weeks ago, the below was performed. These items were not handled due to the problem. The problem surfaced again AFTER the items were handled. I handled the below items before moving cross country - wanted my mechanic to handle the items before I moved. Car now has 185.000 miles on it.
Timing Belt Replacement
Water Pump Replacement
Drive/Accessory Belts Replacement
Motor Mount Replacement (just the 2 easier ones - front by radiator and side by belts)
New gas cap, Evap Canister, and Evap Vent Valve (was getting engine light code)
Brake Lines (they were rusted out)
Fuel Lines (they were rusted out)
Front Rotors
Oil Change
Transmission Fluid Change
Following the above, the problem started again. Called mechanic. He said he has no idea why this is happening again and that I should take the car to Acura. He said replacing the FPR and Idle Valve, and the other 100 things we did, should have resolved the problem. He said the only thing he could possibly think is: Intake Manifold Gasket (gasket is bad and creating vacuum issue when hot). When mechanic did the above work, would he have viewed the intake manifold gasket? Or no...the above work would not require the intake manifold to come up? (Sorry...sure that is a stupid question).
Thanks everyone. Looking forward to your replies.......again!
Hot restart problems has resurfaced!
Experienced a lot of trouble yesterday during hot restarts. When car was cooled off - NO problems starting/misfiring at all. Car drove BRAND NEW with zero problems. No need to go into further details, as the symptoms have been explained in this post previously - same symptoms again - car misfires/stalls/has trouble starting during hot restarts only.
Allow me to provide an update on recent maintenance/repair. A few weeks ago, the below was performed. These items were not handled due to the problem. The problem surfaced again AFTER the items were handled. I handled the below items before moving cross country - wanted my mechanic to handle the items before I moved. Car now has 185.000 miles on it.
Timing Belt Replacement
Water Pump Replacement
Drive/Accessory Belts Replacement
Motor Mount Replacement (just the 2 easier ones - front by radiator and side by belts)
New gas cap, Evap Canister, and Evap Vent Valve (was getting engine light code)
Brake Lines (they were rusted out)
Fuel Lines (they were rusted out)
Front Rotors
Oil Change
Transmission Fluid Change
Following the above, the problem started again. Called mechanic. He said he has no idea why this is happening again and that I should take the car to Acura. He said replacing the FPR and Idle Valve, and the other 100 things we did, should have resolved the problem. He said the only thing he could possibly think is: Intake Manifold Gasket (gasket is bad and creating vacuum issue when hot). When mechanic did the above work, would he have viewed the intake manifold gasket? Or no...the above work would not require the intake manifold to come up? (Sorry...sure that is a stupid question).
Thanks everyone. Looking forward to your replies.......again!
03-26-2019, 10:49 PM
#180
Burning Brakes
03-27-2019, 12:17 PM
#181
Update: Yesterday after attempting a hot start, the car would not start/stay running. I had alot of trouble starting the vehicle, even after I let it rest for about 30 minutes. I attempted a restart without much luck, until I manually opened the throttle body slightly to allow air into the intake. To keep the car running, I opened the throttle body more. This made car stay running and I was able to go about my business and drive home. When I got home I cleaned the throttle body and plate with an entire bottle of carb/choke cleaner. I realize I need to get to Acura for another diagnosis.
Thanks!
Thanks!
03-28-2019, 11:51 AM
#182
Spoke to Acura Las Vegas...bringing the car over today for $160 Diagnosis (fml). Over the phone, the tech is thinking the problem is Throttle Position Sensor. Let's hope not, but it would make some sense to me based on symptoms. I think the part isn't the problem....the problem is the labor due to the reprogramming necessary. Damn.
03-28-2019, 04:21 PM
#183
UPDATE FROM ACURA SERVICE CENTER
Car needs an ECU. Somewhere between $1800-$2200. I am NOT getting that shit fixed. I will reflash the ECU and see what happens.
Any other recommendations?
Car needs an ECU. Somewhere between $1800-$2200. I am NOT getting that shit fixed. I will reflash the ECU and see what happens.
Any other recommendations?
03-28-2019, 04:57 PM
#184
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Last edited by zeta; 03-28-2019 at 05:02 PM.
03-28-2019, 05:23 PM
#185
I searched online for used ECU and they were very cheap, however since it is so cheap, I wonder if it is bad. I found a company on Ebay where you send your ECU and they program it and send it back. I emailed the seller of this service with questions.
Also, I am going to try and get a second opinion as I am not 100% comfortable with Acura's diagnosis. If I had this problem before and it was fixed with the fuel pressure regulator, and not by replacing the ECU, why does it need an ECU this time? I want to ensure they actually tested the ECU versus going by a "process of elimination approach". I want to get this car to an auto electric specialist to see if they can test the ECU and also search the car front and back for any other electrical issues.
The hot start only problem still makes me think it isnt ECU and it is something to do with electrical, fuel, or air intake.
Thanks!!!!!!!!
Also, I am going to try and get a second opinion as I am not 100% comfortable with Acura's diagnosis. If I had this problem before and it was fixed with the fuel pressure regulator, and not by replacing the ECU, why does it need an ECU this time? I want to ensure they actually tested the ECU versus going by a "process of elimination approach". I want to get this car to an auto electric specialist to see if they can test the ECU and also search the car front and back for any other electrical issues.
The hot start only problem still makes me think it isnt ECU and it is something to do with electrical, fuel, or air intake.
Thanks!!!!!!!!
03-28-2019, 07:57 PM
#186
Just left Acura, after picking up vehicle. I was not charged a diagnostic fee, which I appreciated.
They said it is hot soak issue and the fix is to replace the FPR and ECU (updated version). Since I already replaced the FPR, they said I need to replace the ECU.
The technician acknowledged that the best route would be to grab the ECU at a junkyard or on Ebay and have them program it for $160.00.
They said I need to make sure I find the correct version - the updated version - so hopefully I am able to find the appropriate ECU. I have the part number...hoping that is helpful.
Odd to me that when I replaced the FPR many months ago, it was fine. If the ECU wasn't the right version before, why did it not act up until now? No idea. I am thinking of resetting the ECU and seeing what happens. At the same time, I am going to look into grabbing an updated ECU.
Thanks!
They said it is hot soak issue and the fix is to replace the FPR and ECU (updated version). Since I already replaced the FPR, they said I need to replace the ECU.
The technician acknowledged that the best route would be to grab the ECU at a junkyard or on Ebay and have them program it for $160.00.
They said I need to make sure I find the correct version - the updated version - so hopefully I am able to find the appropriate ECU. I have the part number...hoping that is helpful.
Odd to me that when I replaced the FPR many months ago, it was fine. If the ECU wasn't the right version before, why did it not act up until now? No idea. I am thinking of resetting the ECU and seeing what happens. At the same time, I am going to look into grabbing an updated ECU.
Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
joemooch (05-15-2019)
03-28-2019, 08:46 PM
#187
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
What's the updated ECU part #?
The link below has 37820-P8E-A55 currently listed, for your model.
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/oem-pa...9tYXRpYw%3D%3D
If that's the right part#, then here's one for $49.99 before shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-ACURA-...4383.l4275.c10
What's the updated ECU part #?
The link below has 37820-P8E-A55 currently listed, for your model.
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/oem-pa...9tYXRpYw%3D%3D
If that's the right part#, then here's one for $49.99 before shipping:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-ACURA-...4383.l4275.c10
The following users liked this post:
joemooch (05-15-2019)
03-28-2019, 08:57 PM
#188
Hi. The part is 37820-P8E-L55 which I verified through the below Acura Parts site (I have California Emissions).
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-pgk-a01.html
I found the part on Ebay for $24.00. I will take it to Acura for them to install and program then start drinking heavily.
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-pgk-a01.html
I found the part on Ebay for $24.00. I will take it to Acura for them to install and program then start drinking heavily.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (03-28-2019)
03-28-2019, 09:45 PM
#189
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Hi. The part is 37820-P8E-L55 which I verified through the below Acura Parts site (I have California Emissions).
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-pgk-a01.html
I found the part on Ebay for $24.00. I will take it to Acura for them to install and program then start drinking heavily.
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...0-pgk-a01.html
I found the part on Ebay for $24.00. I will take it to Acura for them to install and program then start drinking heavily.
Hopefully, you can then put this issue to bed, sans the heavy drinking, lol.Good Luck!
04-08-2019, 11:45 AM
#190
Thanks, Zeta.
Latest Update: ECU was received and brought to Acura Service Center for installation and programming ($150). Since this fix, there have been ZERO issues with hot restart.
Acura also recommended (especially if the problem reoccurs) getting the valves adjusted (I never did this/heard of this before). I am not sure how much this would cost. Too bad I did not have them adjusted when i replaced the valve cover gaskets last month. What are your thoughts regarding this service? I am not getting a valve tap/valve noise....but I read this is something that should still be done every 100k miles. (something about the engine valves get loose and the exhaust valves get too tight). Appreciate your thoughts.
Also...the car still has a noticeable "miss"/"shake" at idle. No engine light. Car actually runs great. I think I am feeling bad motor mounts. As I said previously, last month I replaced the two "easier" mounts (under hood), but did not replace the other 3 mounts (was told 2 of them are very labor intensive). I am thinking Acura can properly diagnose the miss.....since no engine light is coming on, it leads me to believe the miss is motor mount related or exhaust related. I did notice an improvement with cabin noise since replacing the 2 mounts last month...I wanted to get them ALL replaced but mechanic did not have the time and wanted to charge me an arm and a leg. Appreciate your thoughts here.
Thanks!!
Latest Update: ECU was received and brought to Acura Service Center for installation and programming ($150). Since this fix, there have been ZERO issues with hot restart.
Acura also recommended (especially if the problem reoccurs) getting the valves adjusted (I never did this/heard of this before). I am not sure how much this would cost. Too bad I did not have them adjusted when i replaced the valve cover gaskets last month. What are your thoughts regarding this service? I am not getting a valve tap/valve noise....but I read this is something that should still be done every 100k miles. (something about the engine valves get loose and the exhaust valves get too tight). Appreciate your thoughts.
Also...the car still has a noticeable "miss"/"shake" at idle. No engine light. Car actually runs great. I think I am feeling bad motor mounts. As I said previously, last month I replaced the two "easier" mounts (under hood), but did not replace the other 3 mounts (was told 2 of them are very labor intensive). I am thinking Acura can properly diagnose the miss.....since no engine light is coming on, it leads me to believe the miss is motor mount related or exhaust related. I did notice an improvement with cabin noise since replacing the 2 mounts last month...I wanted to get them ALL replaced but mechanic did not have the time and wanted to charge me an arm and a leg. Appreciate your thoughts here.
Thanks!!
05-28-2019, 04:07 PM
#191
Thanks JKP
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