Pair of TLs

Dieseling is what that "clunking" noise is.
The tops of your pistons prolly got stuff on 'em--you need to "blow out" your motor.
Try a can of Seafoam or bottle of Lucas injector cleaner in the fuel tank.
Then take it out for a good long freeway drive and burn off some of the gunk.

When you idle so long, deposits build up and burn after shutdown.
You're ruining your plugs, too.

Experience.

nj00tl

I seafoamed my car last summer by intake and crankcase and still had hot restart issues.

nj00tl

Domenic Ricci

Thanks for replying.

A few months ago I tried BK44 Fuel Cleaner. Used it twice, and followed instructions. I may go that route again or Seafoam.
Would you add Seafoam to the engine oil and fuel tank, or just stick to fuel tank?
Idk why I always get leery about adding stuff to engine oil. Honestly, only thing I have ever added to engine oil is a little bit of transmission fluid, as a safe cleaning agent.

Thanks again!

Domenic Ricci

I just bought the big bottle of Lucas and dumped it in, and drove about 15 miles. I have to drive to Philadelphia today, so that will be 120 miles roundtrip freeway.

Iggy

Did you mean BG44K? If so, that's some of the best stuff available. If you've already used it twice then I'd say you are good to go for a while.

If you do add seafoam to the engine oil, don't go much over 300 miles before you change the oil.

Domenic Ricci

Yes, BG44K. Great stuff. Worked well for me too.

If I was ever to add Seafoam to engine, I would probably drive it around for a week max, then get oil changed. You ever toss a little tranny fluid in engine?

Domenic Ricci

Update:

Still no problems with hot starts or with misfiring/stalling following 30 minute idle in park. Car runs very well and strong.

HOWEVER...........
I thought I noticed this yesterday, but today I definitely noticed this as it happened three (3) times. Each time I would restart the car and start to drive, at right around 5 mph, I would give the car gas but nothing would happen. It didn't make a revving noise during this, or bang/slip, it was just as if nothing happened at all, and then it fixed itself and was fine, and never duplicated the issue while driving. When it happens, I depressed the gas pedal with more pressure, but nothing happened. It was like the car turned off (but it didn't). After it fixes itself it runs great/perfect. It doesn't duplicate the issue while taking off from a red light or stop sign, it ONLY happened today after I started the car first thing this morning and went out, and then again after I restarted the car after it was off for 10 minutes and then 20 minutes.

Stupidest car ever. Still thinking I need to get an ECU......

Domenic Ricci

Acura told me to check the throttle body cable and perhaps the throttle position sensor.........

Domenic Ricci

Annoying that no local parts store has a Throttle Position Sensor for this car. Rockauto doesn't have one either. Guess its Ebay.

Domenic Ricci

01acls

An engine head defective ground will cause a sluggish throttle response all the time but not in a certain range of the rpm.

Iggy

Mine intermittently does the same exact thing! I still does it after the engine swap so I know It's not ground related because those are clean a whistle.

Only happens with a cold motor starting out, like you say, at 5mph. Once you let off the gas it seems to gain it's composure once again and it's fine.

Domenic Ricci

Pair of TLs

Wait a sec...You're in 'manual mode' and telling the trans you want to be in overdrive? If I was a transmission, I'd be confused as why you don't start me in a lower gear or let me go auto??

Domenic Ricci

Iggy

D4 is auto, except it diables torque converter lockup(overdrive)

Domenic Ricci

Pair of TLs

If it doesn't happen in auto mode, then the problem seems to be in the D4/D5 mode where the trans is deciding what gear it wants to be in--is there any play in the shifter cable/mechanism?

Iggy

Reread post 135. There was no mention of sport shift(manual) mode. Not sure where you are getting this from

Iggy

Who told you to run in D4, and did he give a reason?

If you run in D4 on the highway your RPMS will be significantly higher and your gas mileage will be poor. Just run in D5 all the time, it won't hurt a thing.

Domenic Ricci

Thanks, Iggy. And yes, no mention of sport shift mode......quite frankly I do not even know what that is or how to use it.

Noone told me to use D4. I was told to use D5. I was told the only reason to ever use D4 is if I was in stop and go horrible center city traffic. I rarely have that scenario, so I always use D5.

The only reason I brought up the D5 vs D4 thing is due to the "gas pedal not responding" situation because I was curious if the problem was transmission related and I thought I should see if it duplicates in D4. My testing showed that the "gas pedal no response" happens when starting off in D5 but not D4 (which yes, I never use). As I said, I was just trying to test some things out and gather data. My next steps is wondering if I should contact the shop that rebuilt my transmission or just wait until the throttle position sensor arrives to try that fix. I do not see how this could be a transmission issues, as when the gas pedal does not response, the car doesn't rev. It isn't "missing or slipping or banging", it simply acts like I never hit the pedal.

Thank you very much! Happy Monday!

Iggy

Like I said, your symptom seems exactly like mine which is definitely NOT transmission related. The intermittent nature of the problem makes hard to track down the exact cause.

Out of curiosity, why are you replacing the TPS? Did it fail testing and is known to be bad. I see no reason to throw money into the wind just on a hunch.

Domenic Ricci

I went online and searched the issue of the gas pedal not responding (only during initial start/go at around 5mph) and a few folks said it could be a throttle position sensor issue, so I purchased the part online for $40 and figured I give it a try.
The good news is the ORIGINAL issue described in my FIRST post seems to have rectified itself following the FPR, ECU reset, and idle relearn. I thought I was home free but then this new weird issue started happening.

Thanks again for all of your replies and feedback.

nj00tl

nj00tl

Domenic Ricci

I haven't paid attention to it in a few days.....
I travel tomorrow on business for a week so.........I'll be using a rental car and trying to get the job done. Ha!

frankjnjr

Thanks for the heads-up Domenic. I've been following this thread, with great interest, and I feel your pain. Looking at it, in a positive light, you've gained more knowledge regarding the function and operational characteristics of your car, than probably 99% of the current owner population. This experience is going to be of great value to you going forward, not only with this car, but any car you may come to own. Thank you again for keeping interested forum members current, on your progress.

Domenic Ricci

Thanks, Frank. I always appreciate your replies and input, and experience. While the situation is frustrating and costly, I guess I am learning and at the same time, I somewhat enjoy the investigative work.

So.....latest update as I am back from vacation.....

The misfire/stalling situation seems to have been resolved. I have no problems with hot starts and no problems after a long idle. No engine light codes have returned and the car runs very well.... Basically, since the new fuel pressure regulator and ECM reset with idle relearn, my ORIGINAL problem appears fixed.

Except..........

When I first start the car and start to drive, usually before the car gets up to 10-15mph, I will give the car gas and NOTHING happens. It is as if I never hit the gas pedal. If I keep pressing the gas pedal, still, nothing happens. No noise, no rev, no slip, weird. The engine does not rev as if it was in neutral and you give it gas, it just does nothing. Then it will just correct itself and drive as if nothing happens. It doesn't bang into gear or slip or miss, it just acts like I never hit the gas and then fixes itself. There are often a few times when driving that the same situation will occur, but not as dramatic (more of a lag/hesitation). So far, I have told to replace throttle body position sensor and maybe the cat converter.

Currently, the car is at the transmission shop (rebuilt in January, under full warranty) getting looked at as the shop volunteered to check it out for free (I guess so, I dropped $3k in there earlier in the year). The tech said I could have "broke the springs that mount or are within the torque converter when the car was misfiring and bucking and stalling". At least I think that is what he said. I guess he will take it for a test drive but my concern is the problem will not duplicate itself. Hopefully they hook it to a machine or something to see what is going on. If nothing is found, I will be taking car to Acura.

Thanks. Look forward to your review and reply.

Domenic Ricci

For some reference

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...y-jessica-howe

Domenic Ricci

UPDATE

Transmission shop said they had some difficulty having the problem occur. They stated everything tested OK from a transmission perspective, and they drained some fluid and replaced (not sure why but OK).
They said it could be a throttle position sensor but it is hard to diagnose, based on their experience. They said to just drive it around and go from there. Keep an eye out for any check engine light codes.

Thanks!

frankjnjr

Hey Domonic, looks like most operational issues, with the exception of (Lack of accelerator response,on cold start) have been corrected. This is not an isolated problem, as Iggy is experiencing the same thing, maybe to a lessor degree. Is the "No accelerator response on cold start" problem, consistent, or intermittent? Since the problematic (component), does not trigger a code, identifying the cause, becomes more difficult. FWIW: If my car displayed this symptom, I would look for, and contact, the local Snap-On tool Distributor, and inquire, which of his Techs owns, and is competent, in use of the Snap-On Verus Pro, or Solus Edge diagnostic system. I would contact that Tech/Shop, explain the problem, and request assistance. If the problem is intermittent, I would let the Tech use my car, until the problem occurs. Once it does happen, the Tech can examine, and isolate the engine management control components, and hopefully determine which, is not performing as designed. We can all offer (GUESSES), "ie," MAF, 02 Sensor, TPS, ECU, etc,. which could all be the cause, but a competent Technician, should be able to eliminate the guess work.

01acls

Probably one of the new aftermarket part that you installed is causing the hesitation.

Domenic Ricci

Thanks, Frank!

Yes, it is intermittent. It will do it on a cold start, and also do it on a hot start. Whether its first drive at first thing in morning, or after I have been in the grocery store for an hour, it happens intermittently. It basically will have this problem when its first started/driving up to 10mph, but then not repeat itself during that SAME drive. Very strange. I could go outside now and the problem could happen, or it could not happen. No real rhyme or reason.
But I have noted your recommendation and think that sounds like a great idea. For now, I am just going to focus on driving the car and see what happens. It is due for a timing belt kit job (i have the parts) next month, and when I do that, I will talk to the mechanic more, and also tell him about your recommendation. For now, I am just going to start the car and go, and treat it with respect and see what happens.

Thanks as always!!!

Domenic Ricci

The only problem is, the situation was occurring before I installed most of those parts. However to your point, it become much more frequent after my Acura fuel pressure regulator and idle relearn. Strange car, strange owner!

Domenic Ricci

It is strange. Hesitation isn't even the right word. Ha. It doesn't hesitate, it just does nothing. Then acts like nothing happened and drives fine. Ok maybe hesitate is the right word, but you know what I mean. It makes me crazy because it makes me feel like my foot isn't reaching the accelerator.

frankjnjr

I would describe a hesitation, as a very momentary, not a complete lack of accelerator pedal response, lasting several seconds. Perhaps, somewhat of a "LAG". Anyone accustomed to driving a corroborated engine, will know what i mean. The symptom both you and Iggy describe, zero accelerator response, regardless of pedal position, seems to me, to be associated with a sensor, that is not functioning properly, at times. The Snap-On tools, as well as numerous other Brand diagnostic tools, are capable of observing the operation of control sensors, real time, in addition to ECU command functions, to determine, if there doing what there supposed to be doing, when there supposed to be doing it. The technical expertise, of the diagnostic operator is KEY, with this type of issue.

Domenic Ricci

Frank, thanks. Yes, I guess it would be more of a lag. I get the no pedal response, and sometimes the same lag when driving. Again, sometimes. Ughhhh. It reminds me of having a clogged cat converter (although I get zero check engine light codes).

Also, do you feel Acura Service Center could provide the same diagnostics, or would you have low confidence based on their tools/experience?

Domenic Ricci

AND NOW A NEW PROBLEM (I can't take it anymore).

In park, car idles normal, then revs up to 3k RPMs, then back to normal, then up to 3K, then back to normal, then back to 3K. It does not stop. No engine light codes. Like what in the fuck!
Sorry for the language but I am really not able to get another car or put anymore into this one. I just want this crap to stop! I have been good to this car and I try really hard to do what is right. I am not perfect but I am trying. Dammit!

Domenic Ricci

This is NOT my video, but exactly what it is doing.

You Tube

The idle air valve was replaced. Is it an Acura part, no, I agree and I apologize to 01acls.

Note the comments at the bottom of video.

Thank you.