DITO: Never heard of the accelorator method. Wondering where Domenic may have found it. Also curious about the current status of the issue. Very interesting problem. Although, I don't think it's wise to leave a car idling for extended periods of time, It shouldn't really cause a problem, unless one of the engine control systems is not up to speed!

 

Hi Frank, thanks for your reply.

I once reset the ECM by following the instructions via the following Youtube video: Maybe it was not smart to listen to the person posting the video, but I tried it before and it worked. This time, no dice.

I agree - not a good idea to let the car idle for 30 minutes or so but as you said, it should NOT make the engine miss/shake/knock/putter the way it does. Not to mention the start problems and misfire during driving issues following that situation.

Update:
1. The Purge Valve (under hood) is set to arrive tomorrow. I will replace.
2. Spoke to Acura this morning: They said that after I installed the Fuel Pressure Regulator and New Spark Plugs, I was supposed to do a "idle relearn". They told me to pull the batter terminals, hold them together for 15 minutes, then connect battery terminals and start car. They then said to let car idle until the cooling fan comes on 2x, then turn car off, then drive. This sounds like a waste but I will do what they said. They said their next step is to look at the ECM, which I am starting to think more and more is the problem. I mean...I literally have tried everything else! Unless the engine itself is bad.....but that doesn't make sense to me due to the problem being intermittent. Although the last few weeks, I have noticed that there are times after I start the car and drive down the street, it will have a "miss" or it will feel like even though I hit the gas pedal, nothing was happening. It seems a bit "off" since the Fuel Pressure Regulator job.

VERY FRUSTRATING!


Thanks. I will keep you posted and look forward to any future replies.

 

 

Interesting.

I wonder if flashing the system is the same as having the Acura dealer "reset the ECM". Not sure how a flash of the ECM is handled.
So you are saying a replacement ECM isn't needed, but instead it needs to be "reflashed" to sync with the new FPR?

 

Dominec, you have a second generation TL. The video above, from what I can ascertain, shows how to reset the ECM for a third + generation TL.

You can reset the ECU as Iggy posted above by pulling the clock fuse; however, you will still have to perform the idle relearn procedure as the Acura people told you (making sure all electrics are OFF). I usually wait three fan cycles. In addition, if you don't want to pull the clock fuse, then ONLY disconnect the negative battery cable and wait about a minute (or more, if it makes you feel better) before reattaching, then perform the 'idle relearn'. The biggest reason for pulling the 'clock fuse' is that it is easier and you don't have to reenter the radio code to get it to work again.

 

Thank you, Zeta.

So to confirm, you are saying I need to first reset the ECM per the instructions of Iggy, THEN do the idle relearn per instructions of Acura? Do you feel this will solve me crazy problem? I hope so

 

Question: For both the ECU Reset (via fuse pull) and Idle Relearn (via battery connector method), does the ignition get left in OFF position, or Position 2 or Position 3 (on)?

 

 

Iggy beat me to the punch, well done!

Unfortunately no, sorry. However, when disconnecting power from the cars 'brain system' you need to follow the idle learn function to get it back to a point, hopefully, of running smoothly to proceed with any further diagnosis. Refer to the attachment to see all of the 'reasons' why one has to perform the idle learn procedure. Also, if you want to follow the ideal learn steps on the attachment, it should give you the same result. I understand that all of this may be confusing. I usually do the 'fan cycle' idle learn procedure because that's how I learned it when I had my '99 Honda SI, and perform it to this day on my second generation CLS 6-speed, it works.

Ignition must be OFF before disconnecting battery or pulling the clock fuse.

Good Luck!

 

 

Thanks, I will give the following a try: Pull Clock Fuse. Perform Idle Relearn per instructions of Acura Service Center. Acura said after I pull the cables and hold them together for 15 minutes, to put the connectors back and start the car and let it run until the fan comes on and off twice. Although it looks like they didnt mention the steps detailed above regarding holding RPM at 3K, etc. Confusing for me....but I will give it a try.

 

I am going to go to my mechanic tomorrow. He said he is going to reset ECM and do idle relearn. Says something about his fancy computer/device will do the relearn. He will also do the Evap Purge Valve. I rather have him give this a shot. Wish me luck.

 

Fuse Method:
1-Ignition off
2-Pull clock fuse (wait a few minutes)
3-Insert clock fuse
4-All electrics OFF AC/radio/lights
5-Start car, if possible don't rev the engine, hopefully it starts and idles on its own
6-Let it sit and idle for two-three fan cycles (important)

For battery disconnect/reconnect method, just replace with steps 2 & 3 above.

Attachment method:
Pull/reinsert clock fuse OR disconnect/reconnect battery
Follow the steps on the attachment.

 

It is on off problem. ECM would be On problem all times. Try to clean connectors to ECU and than put dielectric grease in connection. I read somewhere that on off problems are usually sign of electrical problems. As someone notice above check ground too. Before all just go through connectors, clean it with spray and pack with dielectric grease. It is free and not much of time.

 

Not necessarily. If the ECU isn't calibrated for the newer FPR then the same intermittent vapor lock issues will still happen. Would they not?

 

 

Thanks guys.

While I guess you may be able to classify this as an intermiddent problem because it runs well, then screws up.........The fact is right now, it screws up every time it sits in idle in park for 20-40. That is a constant right now....that keeps happening. Vapor Lock?

So yeah, tomorrow (I was supposed to go today but Evap part hasn't arrived yet) I will have Evap part replaced, clean ECU connections (why not), and have mechanic reset ECU and do Idle Re-learn (supposedly mechanic says he can do all this on a machine). IF that does NOT work, then I am going to order a junkyard ECM and have Acura program it. If that does NOT work, then I will probably throw a toaster in the bathtub while I am bathing.

Thanks again guys! Appreciate your help and comments. I really do.

 

Guys, take a view at this video on Youtube.
I am not saying I agree with the video (because I already did the coolant temp sensor and that didnt work), I am copying this link so that you view the COMMENTS section. Some interesting discussion...seems like I am not the only one with the issue.
Also, as I went through my memory today: The only thing that ever seemed to fix this, when I had the issue about 12-18 months ago, was when I replaced the Main Relay (under dash, left side of brake pedal area). Just saying....maybe that went again or maybe there is a short somewhere?

Thanks!!!

 

 

 

Interested in knowing in which specific manual, you found your information. Seems to me, a valve adjustment every 3 years, or 30K, is an unusual maintenance recommendation. Perhaps, if you had an old school engine, equipped with solid lifters, than maybe. The manual for my 2003 TLS, recommends a valve adjustment (" ONLY IF NOISY") at 105K or 84 months. I inspected mine at 200K, when I did the 200K service, and found all intake valves, within spec., and three exhaust valves, slightly out of spec., on the tight side. Since I acquired my car with 196K, I have no idea if the valve lash had ever been adjusted, prior to my ownership.

 

I have not performed the compression test at all.

 

I have 175k miles on the car, purchased with 150k. I have not done a valve adjustment and have no way of knowing if the previous owner did either.
Once I fix this problem (IF), I have the timing belt kit and was going to have that handled and also have the valves adjusted (and valve cover gasket since I have a little leak).
I asked Acura and my mechanic on their thoughts regarding the valve adjustment, and they said they do not believe it is needed due to how quiet the engine is (when its running right). The engine is VERY quiet and the only small chatter I hear at times may be a belt tensioner/one of the pulleys, but again, it is very small and very minimal.

Thanks!

 

LATEST UPDATE

Yesterday: Replaced EVAP Purge Valve (under hood).
Reset ECM (I assumed it worked since my radio needed me to input the code again) and Relearned the Idle (followed the methods described above and by Acura).

Results: Following Relearn:
YESTERDAY
1. Drove car around for 10 miles, no issues.
2. One hot restart immediately after I turned car off, no issues.
3. Another hot restart 10 minutes after that, no issues.
4. Another hot restart 20 minutes after that, no issues.
5. Let car idle for 40 minutes, no issues.
6. Drove car again for 10 miles, no issues.
7. Three hot restarts (immediately, 10 minute, 20 minute like above), no issues.
8. Let car idle for 40 minutes, no issues.
9 Engine is very quiet and runs very smooth. Strong.
TODAY
1. Let car idle for 40 minutes, no issues.
2. Three hot restarts (immediately, 10 minute, 20 minute like above), no issues.
3. Drove car for 2 miles, no issues.
4. Engine is very quiet and runs very smooth. Strong.

I am cautiously optimistic at this point.

Note: Yesterday, when it was idling for 40 minutes, it seemed like it "wanted to start crapping out", but it didn't. When I put the AC on, the idle dropped and again, it seemed like it wanted to crap out, but the idle regained its composure and it was fine. The ONLY thing I noticed was - when I felt it was going to crap out, I gave it light gas. At that point, I heard a "clunking/knocking". I wish I could describe the sound better. However, this is the BEST comparison I can make - - - - - You know how on TV or a movie you see some old piece of crap horrible car that when it turns off, the driver gets out and the car still runs (reminds me of Uncle Buck movie)? When the car wont shut it off, it makes that "clunking/knocking/puttering" noise....that was the sound I briefly got yesterday. And that is the sound it makes when it f's up and starts misfiring and stalling. Again, it did NOT f up or misfire during my above tests of yesterday and today, I just wanted to point out that I heard that noise and it made me concerned it was going to start screwing up, but it didn't.

I am going to drive the car as normal today, unfortunately I have to go to damn Walmart. Ha!

At this moment, I feel it is "better" and that something improved. I am not 100% confident all is fixed and that it will not happen again today or tomorrow....but as of right now....I am feeling good.

Thank you all so much for reading and replying. So many good folks on this website, and you have been very helpful and kind. I will continue to post updates.

Thanks!

 

^
That sounds promising, hopefully, with all the stuff you replaced and a proper idle learn procedure, the car will perform normally.

BTW, do you always use 91+ octane fuel? Just curious.

 

 

Hi.

I always use 93 octane, not because I like paying for it, but because Acura told me it requires 93 "Premium" Fuel. I wonder what is proper, and what others on here think I should use? Thanks!

 

Yeah - I agree. I consider that sound a misfire. Like....something isn't syncing up.
I am going to test it out again today. I really hope I fixed it.

I have read about the valve adjustment too. I just figure if it runs well and sounds quite, I wouldn't mess with it. But then again, this is my first Acura, and I am used to my Lincoln Town Cars & Grand Marquis so........... Still learning!

Thanks!

 

Not valves.

Shut value and charcoal canister.

 

Shut valve is the valve attached to canister, or the one under the hood that I just replaced?

I thought about canister too! But never got an EVAP code so.........
But yeah......yeah never know.
Wish me luck....so far so good!

 

Yes, on the chanister.

BTW... stop using aftermarket parts. They do not last and will need to be replaced again. Your TL didn't last this long because it was made with cheap parts.
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