MurdaZ

iTrader: (1)

good thinking rofl....just becareful man

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea, it's tightened down pretty good and held on for about 35 miles so far. I had to get to work.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

right there is a genius idea. but i would have used this instead http://www.zeroclips.com/jcsrange.htm

heyitsvu

iTrader: (1)

the thing about those hose clamps is that they dont hold down well. you cant keep em tight the way you can keep a vise grip clamped on to something for a sure stay

heyitsvu

iTrader: (1)

nice to see your car is going so well other then that shift cable problem. I just called to check on my car today, and apparently, the guys at the body shop have already dissected most of my car and they're in the process of dissecting the CL and moving everything over to my TL. thats record time right there, but also its because there's 4 guys who do tranny swaps there thats workin on my car. they say it should be done by monday afternoon so after 4 days, everything will be put back together, and all should be well

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Me and Joe did my swap in 6 days with some help from John for a few of those days and another couple buddies for a few hours. And Joe was the only one that knew what he was doing. We could've done it it three days if we had all the parts I needed here.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I don't think I could've gotten those clamps to stay on there.

You have to pull on that cable pretty damn hard to get it to move. At first, I just hooked up the Vice Grips on the frayed wire and was moving it manually, but I had to move two things (the regular shifter left and right and the Vice Grips up and down) but that proved to be too hard. I didn't even make it out of the neighborhood. That's when I got the idea of clamping the two old parts together.

Plus, all the force pulling on the wires front and back would probably just make the wires slip out of the clamps. I have the dial on the Vice Grips dialed down to the tightest it can go and I had to really squeeze to get them on and I need some pliers get them off.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I got the cables and slave cylinder in today







Let's get to work




Goodbye Vice Grips




Also decided to wrap my flex pipe while I was under there feeding the shifter cable through










While I was under there, I saw a couple things...

The wire for the O2 sensor on the headers was hitting the axle. Hadn't gotten to the wires yet, just the cover.




I also see some trans fluid on dripping from the trans
Since there isn't a dipstick, how do I check the fluid level?




Microsoft Streets & Trips 2008

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

why did u wrap your flex pipe? was it leaking? or just for the hell of it?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

To try and get rid of some of the resonance. It did a pretty good job. I used 20 feet of it. I was supposed to split it with salvo24 but I couldn't find my good scissors so I just used all of it. I think once I get the muffler hangers rewelded it will be good enough.

MurkyRiversTL

why the new slave cylinder?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

It feels like it's messed up and doesn't engage sometimes. It's also hard to get it into gear when it's just been started and I have to pump the clutch a bunch of times. Guys on the v 6 P boards said it might be that so I am going to do that and the master cylinder as well. I bought a brand new one for the swap, but couldn't get one last little connector so me and Joe just went to the junkyard and grabbed one off an old Integra for the time being. Once the online dealer finds that part for me and sends it here, I'm going to do both of those.

02type-s

That looks like a lot of fluid from the trans, that really sucks

jproy

You got a problem with that trans. There is way to much FRESH fluid dripping there. You may have it way over filled. It does not take the stated amount in the manual it is more like 2qts. There is a fill bolt on the front of the trans four inches above the trans drain bolt. with the car level and on jacks, you need to remove that 10mm bolt and fill the trans until and only until fluid comes out of the 10mm fill bolt hole. It wont hurt at all to have the rear of the car slightly higher than the front. In fact I made sure mine was when I filled it. Stop forcing things. I hope you didnt get a bust trany.

How effective was the wrap? Details please on the effects.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

So have the car level or the rear higher when doing the fluid?

You say that I may have it way overfilled but then you say to add more fluid.

And do you think I should go ahead and just do a full change and get the Synchromesh?

What do you mean stop forcing things? Talking about the shifter cable?
I just need to let the car sit there and warm up in the morning and pump the pedal a few times to get the fluid moving around.


The header wrap seems to help a little bit, I am still having the pretty bad noise at that certain RPM but it is a lot better. I also have a high flow cat and no resonators so my resonance will be more prevalent than others'.

jproy

Yes, have the rear slightly higher when filling but only an degree or so. I never said to add more fluid. I told you how to check the fill level drain bolt per the shop manual instructions. It is a 10mm bolt 4 inches above the TRANS DRAIN BOLT. It allows you to know when the trans is full as you are filling it because trans fluid starts to pour out of the fill level bolt hole when it is full. If you get the car on jack stands like I said above you can simply remove the fill level bolt and if it is overfilled, excess will drain off. Replace the bolt when fluid stops draining from the fill level bolt. If you do not have a service manual for a 2003 CLS 6MT you need one. You are simply running blind without it. The syncromesh is up to you but I recommend it highly.

Forcing things? Yes, I am talking about the cable. You should never have to force anything on your car unless you are removing a axle nut or a crank pulley bolt. Your trans is acting up for a reason! Forcing things will only break other things. There is no good reason for your car to need to warm up before it will go into gear other than a problem. Pumping the clutch does not MOVE the fluid around. It does not circulate. If you don't have air in the clutch line there is something very wrong. Now that I think about it that fluid under the trans looks more like brake fluid than OEM reformulated trans fluid. I suspect you made a poor connection with the clutch line and the slave cylinder. Check the fluid level of the clutch master cylinder. Better check the slave for a leak first and then re bleed real well. Good luck. GET A SERVICE MANUAL

fsttyms1

How much fluid did you add???? Like jproy said, remove the small overfill bolt and add fluid till you have fluid coming out of that hole. Make sure the car is level or slightly higher in the rear, not lower. As for fluid, where is it leaking from? Also either get the new honda friction modified fluid or the GM syncromesh friction modified fluid.

Hope there isnt something wrong with your trans

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I didn't bolt up the trans to the motor or add the fluid; Joe did that while I was at work one day. I couldn't really tell where the fluid was coming out of. I just saw the drops forming on the bottom when I was doing the header wrap and shifter cables. I am on the Honda updated stuff so I'll just add more of that if I need to.



I just want to see if it was overfilled and that is extra fluid coming out or if there is a leak and now I am running low. I am going to try and pull the plug above the drain bolt and see what comes out.


I also see that you both are saying to get it up on jacks, is that just for easier access?



I am thinking it may be something with the clutch as well. The reservoir above the master cylinder has gotten a little lower in level, but there is still plenty in there, there might be some air in the lines like you said. I want to put in the new master amd slave cylinder and bleed the lines again to see if I can get good travel on the clutch when I first start it up.

fsttyms1

I would drain what you have out and refill it. That way you know how much is in there. (and see how much actually comes out)

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, I went by the Honda dealer just to have the guy tell me he can't even touch the car. I told him the whole deal about the swap and everything and just wanted some advice on what kind of fluid he thought was coming out and he pretty much said he wouldn't even talk to me about the car and that both Proctor Honda and Proctor Acura won't even touch the car. What a dick.

So I went over to the parts Dept and got a quart of the MTF, but I guess I need to get another one because you said it takes two quarts? And I opened up the new trans fluid bottle I just picked up and it smells the same as the foreign (to me) fluid from the bottom of the trans.


I'm trying to upload a picture of said bolt above the trans drain bolt, but Facebook is giving me some problems. Is it a little offset (towards the driver's side) as well?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I asked this because if I have to jack it up, I can't do both front and back since I only have one floor jack (a small one) and two jack stands.

jproy

After looking at your pics again, I am going to go out on a limb and say your fluid is clutch(brake) fluid. It is too dark brown yellow to be the reformulated Honda trans fluid. The reformulated stuff is clear with a super slight pink hue to it. You need to redo your clutch line to slave cylinder connection and make sure the bleed screw is on tight after rebleeding. If you are sure the clutch master cylinder is lower on fluid than it was, I am pretty sure that is your problem. It makes sense because you wouldn’t be able to get the car into gear without full clutch disengagement but you still should have grinded the shit out of the gears when you broke that cable which doesn’t make sense. I think you probably have something bent in the trans also. Was the car running when you broke it?
I can’t stress enough the importance of you purchasing a 01-03 cl service manual. You have got to have the right tools and procedures to work on your car or you will probably break something else. The jacks can be had at Harbor Freight or AutoZone for 10-15, hell you can probably rent them. This car is not something you want to be trying to wing it on or you will find yourself with a nice big paper weight. Please go get the manual. It is only $100 and it will tell you and show you EVERTHING! It is probably 1000+ pages with illustrations on EVERYTHING. If you get it you probably won’t need my help and what I tell you will by crystal clear if you do need help. Did you really expect the dealer to help? You aren’t going to make them any money and you could certainly give them a major headache.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I went under the car and got some of fluid on my index finger to smell it and it smells like the trans fluid i just picked up. I'm not sure of the fluid level in the master cylinder itself, I was talking about the fluid reservoir above it and connected to it by the rubber hose. I didn't hear any kind of grinding when I broke the cable, just the cable itself snapping. The car was running, hence why I was trying to get it into gear and leave.


Feel free to donate a manual if you want to. I didn't expect the dealer to really do anything. I wasn't asking them to pull it around back and do a fluid change or anything. I was merely asking the guy what he thought the fluid was and what the trans fluid should look and smell like.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, I think it was overfilled




Wasn't prepared for this much (or at all for that matter)









Let me go finish cleaning up....

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

ouch that suxs Kris, it's hard to say if it was over filled based on whats on the ground, is that cup full? that looks to be about 1pint, but another 1.3 or something like that should come out.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea in the bottom pics the cup was full. This was not the drain bolt I removed it was the 10mm bolt above the drain plug.






But, I have some new problems now. The clutch isn't engaging at all. I went two houses down to give someone a jump and it got stuck in first and the pedal feels like it's stuck to the floor. I guess I need to make sure the lines are all connected good and bleed the system? Can someone give me a quick run through for that or provide a link?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Just put on my new slave cylinder and am waiting for my roommate to finish his homework so we can bleed the lines and see what happens.

MurkyRiversTL

yeah dude that means that you have no fluid in the clutch lines. That happened to me when I forgot to tighten the bleed screw all the way. and if you didnt know, that little reservoir that you master cylinder is connected to with a rubber hose is your clutch fluid reservoir. That is probably how you broke your cable too.

I dont have a service manual either, but I need to get one, especially since Im having problems with my car. But these littel things that we forget to do, Clutch reservoir fluid, reconnecting grounds, will teach us some pretty big lessons.

At least your problem wont potentially cost you 500 buck for a little fucking sensor.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

that's way over full lol.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, I didn't really succeed in bleeding the lines. The clutch pedal isn't stuck anymore it feels really light and moves easy, but the clutch doesn't (dis)engage(?) the clutch so I can put it in gear.



How far is the slave cylinder supposed to move the thing that it is attached to?
The little rubber sleeve is fully compressed and barely moves when pushing the clutch pedal.



Kris and murky (sorry don't know your name), how did you attach your clutch pedal bracket at the top? It's like mine isn't long enough and I can only put on the two bolts that attach the master cylinder to the firewall and it's not bolted to anything at the top. I think I need to make some kind of bracket to attach it to the holes that are up there.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

jproy

Holy shit that is a ton of fluid! I'm not even going to say anything but WTF? It is possible you have damaged some of the seals. I hope fluid didn’t contaminate the friction disk. Glad you found the problem.

If the pedal is on the floor, reach down there and pull it back up all the way like you were popping the hood. To bleed the system, have someone in the car to work the clutch up and down with their hand.

Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw and suspend the hose in a container of brake fluid or just an empty container. Loosen the bleed screw about a quarter or half turn. Make sure there is plenty of fluid in the clutch master cylinder the slowly pump the clutch pedal up and down until you see no more bubbles in the bleeder hose. You will empty the clutch master cylinder after only 5 pumps. Remember you will be pulling the clutch pedal up off the floor every time you pump it. It may be necessary to limit the movement of the release fork on the clutch arm going into the trans housing. You may want to go through a half pint of fluid or more to make damn sure there is no air in the system. Tighten the bleed screw to 6ft/lbs of torque and then remove the bleeder hose. If you remove the bleeder hose first you may get some air in the slave so tighten the bleed screw first. Make damn sure the clutch master cylinder reservoir never goes less than half full and make sure to top it off to the full line when you are done. Make sure to use DOT 3or 4 brake fluid. When you are done if you didn’t leave the clutch pedal in the upright position before tightening the bleed screw just pull it up off the floor and all should be well. Make sure and give it a tug all the way up anyway when you are done. Good luck!

jproy

You still have a ton of air in the line. You arent doing something right. follow my instructions above.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea and this means I have to get one for my 99 TL and a 03 CL-S.

MurkyRiversTL

well I have alldatadiy for my 99. If you want I can give you the password and log on so you can use that.... it has a lot of useful info, and if you wanna buy the one for the 03 cls 6 then we can share it. I think it cost me 14.99 or something like that.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

hmm i might have to do that

ChrisQ1980

Sorry to hear you are having so many problems recently. Follow Jproy's instructions for bleeding the clutch. That's most likely your problem with the engagement issue. If you have a leak at the clutch master, or slave cylinder that is causing the air to get into the system and will need to be replaced. I see you already did the slave cyl.

Eeeesh that's a lot of excess transmission fluid. How the hell did he manage to get that much in there? He must have filled it when it was off of the car on it's side or something. It's possible that some of the seals got blown out from the excess pressure. I hope it's not damaged internally. Good luck, and keep us posted.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Anyone want to chime in on these two??

MurkyRiversTL

Mine isnt attached at the top either. There is supposed to be a bracket, but mine engages just fine.

The only time that my clutch was doing the same thing your is doing, is when I didnt tighten a line tight enough. And it needed to be turned like just a little bit and it made a huge difference.

Go through all the lines and retighten them. I bet you something is loose. Your not using the dampener for the clutch right? You shouldnt be having these kind of probblems.

You need to bleed it the way that jproy says. I know that means that you have to buy a lot of brake fluid, but its better then spending over 100 bucks on new shift cables.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I don't know, because I have mine just attached at the firewall and those two bolts are tightened all teh way. When I push down on the pedal, the whole assembly moves so the pedal only pulls on the master cylinder like have of what it should.


No I'm not using the damper. I don't mind getting the fluid and trying to bleed it again, I've just never done it before and am learning as I go. I also think that the pedal not traveling all the way isn't helping when I'm trying to push all the air out. I'm actually gonna go make you a video of the pedal. It's a lot worse now then it was when we first put it in, but it still moved.