Finally started ordering parts for the swap**work starts pg 9**
#642
Originally Posted by crazyfool
didnt mean to offend you are nothing at all.
Originally Posted by crazyfool
if i saw a TL that looked like that down here,
Originally Posted by crazyfool
i would scoff at look away.
#643
COTM Coordinator
well, I think your car looks nice. you made an effort to change the looks and it looks great. even though you didn't go the type s route, your car is stll unique. no one else has done a 6 speed on a tl-p motor.
but if you do want some extra ponies you could always get a type s intake manifold and throttle body. as a matter of fact im selling some.
anyway, I hope you get everything figured out and I still love my car. I don't race often, but when I do I win. gotta love manual trannies.
but if you do want some extra ponies you could always get a type s intake manifold and throttle body. as a matter of fact im selling some.
anyway, I hope you get everything figured out and I still love my car. I don't race often, but when I do I win. gotta love manual trannies.
#644
T-Swzy
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Age: 36
Posts: 2,575
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hey, take the high road kris, cause you got the ponies for it now
nice job on the car, keep us posted and i'm expectin a complete DIY somewhere down the line
nice job on the car, keep us posted and i'm expectin a complete DIY somewhere down the line
#648
Joe's working on all the wiring for us right now. He's keeping me updated on everything. I need to take some pics of the wiring but I never get a chance to when it's light out. It may be Sunday before I can do it. There probably won't be a DIY for the actual swap, but for everything after and getting everything working right with your stock ECU and wiring.
#649
Originally Posted by johnr5
Looks like lookinco, you and joe started a trend here.. lol
first came:
Then:
and now:
Anyone else care to join?
first came:
Then:
and now:
Anyone else care to join?
And kris, wiring's almost done
#652
Originally Posted by PiZauL
Any of you guys gonna be around the MD area anytime soon?
#653
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
but if you do want some extra ponies you could always get a type s intake manifold and throttle body. as a matter of fact im selling some.
#660
Originally Posted by KSuchdeve
Well I got my codes read today...
P0123 - Throttle position sensor
P1106 - BARO sensor
P1753 - TCC malfunction
P0753 - Shift solenoid A
P0763 - Shift solenoid C
P0123 - Throttle position sensor
P1106 - BARO sensor
P1753 - TCC malfunction
P0753 - Shift solenoid A
P0763 - Shift solenoid C
P1106 - BARO sensor
P1753 - TCC malfunction
P0763 - Shift solenoid C
#662
oh shit, just went over to the AV6 forum looking and saw joe's thread. He's gonna start building the tl-p and type-s harnesses tomorrow!!!
Can't wait for my harness.. vtec here I come!
Can't wait for my harness.. vtec here I come!
#663
KRIS! I need you to do this for joe. He needs your gear position switch so he can make you a harness for your TL-P.... Unplug it and then go to his thread in the AV6 forums and he's gonna list a set of instructions for you there.
#666
You can but it's not a good idea. The rear bracket for the mount bolts to the trans and motor. When you put the manual trans on, the bracket only has the places to bolt on the motor b/c the trans has different ones. The rear 6 speed bracket bolts right up to the trans and the motor so you have it fully secured.
#667
NO, you CANNOT. trust me, you DO NOT want to strip the threads on the engine block. The problem with the AT rear mount is that for one thing, is that the bracket only has 2 bolts going to the engine block where as the other two supporting it goes to the AT which will be gone. Unlike the AT rear mount, the MT mount is completely different. as well as all 4 bolts going through the bracket will be connected to the block for a secure connection in the MT bracket unlike the auto.
trust me, skipping out on the MT bracket and rear mount will be the biggest mistake you'll make. lol
trust me, skipping out on the MT bracket and rear mount will be the biggest mistake you'll make. lol
#669
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by johnr5
NO, you CANNOT. trust me, you DO NOT want to strip the threads on the engine block. The problem with the AT rear mount is that for one thing, is that the bracket only has 2 bolts going to the engine block where as the other two supporting it goes to the AT which will be gone. Unlike the AT rear mount, the MT mount is completely different. as well as all 4 bolts going through the bracket will be connected to the block for a secure connection in the MT bracket unlike the auto.
trust me, skipping out on the MT bracket and rear mount will be the biggest mistake you'll make. lol
trust me, skipping out on the MT bracket and rear mount will be the biggest mistake you'll make. lol
#670
Well, I'm pretty sure I just snapped one of my shifter cables
It's been kind of hard to get it into gear when I just start it up so I was trying to force it into reverse because I was running late and heard a snap and the shifter just gave way. I'll make a vid, but basically the right cable broke and it can't pull the shift linkage to make it go into any of the lower gears (2,4,6,R).
It's been kind of hard to get it into gear when I just start it up so I was trying to force it into reverse because I was running late and heard a snap and the shifter just gave way. I'll make a vid, but basically the right cable broke and it can't pull the shift linkage to make it go into any of the lower gears (2,4,6,R).
#671
Senior Moderator
that sucks. Was it binding up somewhere or pinched? Where did it break?
#672
I'm not sure like I said I couldn't see it broken anywhere because it is inside the metal parts of the cable so I can't see exactly where. I'm about to start ripping stuff apart and see what I can see. Looks like I have the day off since I can't get to work.
#674
Here's the video I took right before I pulled the cable completely out and took the picture -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8i5aIn4YcU
#675
Senior Moderator
I would check to see if the cables are pinched or stressed (depending on how you ran them past teh frame) i went over make sure that no place inbetween is kinked. Something had to cause the cable to break??
#676
MP90 uninstalled
yeah that is odd. I would deff look for a kink or binding in the linkage. If you are having trouble getting into a gear cold from a stand still, it has always been common practice for manual drivers to; say if reverse is hard to get into then go to first and then second, then try reverse again and it should pop right in. Sometimes the trans just needs to line up.
#677
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by jproy
yeah that is odd. I would deff look for a kink or binding in the linkage. If you are having trouble getting into a gear cold from a stand still, it has always been common practice for manual drivers to; say if reverse is hard to get into then go to first and then second, then try reverse again and it should pop right in. Sometimes the trans just needs to line up.
#678
MP90 uninstalled
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Yea i agree. I took care of any harder shifts with the GM syncromesh FM fluid.
DEFINITLY SWITCH TO THE GM SYNCORMESH!!!!!!! It is the only way to fly! No one on this board who has made the switch has had a problem. I was simply amazed at what it did for my shift quality.
Also, DO NOT EVER force your car into gear!!! If it wont go into gear something isnt lined up right and you will break something. You are very lucky it was just the cable that broke. You could easily bend a part in the trany.
#680
Here's a look inside the cable housing
It's to small to get anything in there and grab the cable with, so I cut off the metal around it to expose the cable itself.
Then, I started thinking, how can I make this work for the time being (until my new cables get here).
Vice grips holding the frayed wires to the other end of the original cable
Works like a charm so far
It's to small to get anything in there and grab the cable with, so I cut off the metal around it to expose the cable itself.
Then, I started thinking, how can I make this work for the time being (until my new cables get here).
Vice grips holding the frayed wires to the other end of the original cable
Works like a charm so far