Cool thanx.
Hope that gets rid of the codes if not...... time for a New Engine lol.

 

Not tranny related. Has this car been sitting for a long time? Usually this is a stuck partialy open EGR valve or bad gas if it has been sitting. Occasionally I get a bad crank sensor to cause this as well.

 

Since someone brought up the awd from the tl again, i just wanted to ask nva-v6 if there would be a better and cheaper option for this? Maybe the awd from the honda suv or something.

 

Nothing "CHEAP", you are talking a massive ampount of work to put in the rear axel assembly as well as gas tank and re-structuring the center of the car to accomodate both exhaust and drive shaft.

 

i was thinking the early mdx rear ends maybe, but the pick up points on the subframe are completely different, so not quite so easy (let alone a completey different type of spring and shock mounting points)

 

Yes the car has been sitting for a while but it starts right up with no problem .
So is this an easy fix?

 

Depends on the cause, I would get a thing of octaine booster and dump it in to try to fix up the gas and run the tank completely out and then fill with premium.

 

why not just change the plugs while youre at it. do the maintenance so u dont have to worry anymore

 

Thats not a bad idea only thing is that the tank is almost full and the tranny slipps so much is hard to get it to move. It's kind of like having the car on neutral and just reving the gas pedal.

yeah I might as well do that too.
What plugs are good for the cls?

 

tranny should not be slipping, from just sitting there (maybe the first couple of minutes after sitting for a few weeks) but the fluid should circulate within a reletive resonable time, so it can hold the gears


plugs=NGK all the way, Denso's work too but still not quite as well as NGKs

 

Maybe I didn't explain it right lol I meant to say when the car is in drive and after pushing the gas It will move but if I release my foot of the gas then push the gas again it won't go and if feels just like if you had the car in park while reving the gas.

 

something is definetly not right :lol: with it then

and it did not do it before it was put into storage/driven for a couple of weeks???

 

Not to insult, but I have to ask, have you checked your tranny fluid level?

 

x2

 

Wait, octane boost cleans out gas that's settled? My car has been sitting quite a bit (winter storm like 2 days after I filled the tank) so I'm sure there's quite a bit of crap in there... I got about 1/4 of a tank left.

 

just fill it up then, that will dilute that last 1/4 tank enough (and maybe try 1 octane level (ie: preminuim vs say mid-grade) higher then normal for this tank too

 

All the stations around here have 92 octane... I always get that, though.

 

then just keep using that then i guess, maybe then add a can of BG's 44k (i prefer it) or a can of seafoam once you fill up to help it

plus also a bottle of fuel drier (actuallyt it is just isphyoral (sp?)alcohol, so just get some 95% contents or higher bottle [preferred]of it from your local grocery store [just look at the actual contents of fuel drier and you will see what i mean]) to help pick up any water that may have settle out

 

That's how i got it. The old owner said he took it tothe dealership and they told him it was the tranny Going bad.

none taken. To be honest no.

 

then i would check the level first then
but yeah kinda hard to know exactly what has all been done to the car in the past and such (or crash damage) and such considering that you just bought it

 

That's how i got it. The old owner said he took it tothe dealership and they told him it was the tranny Going bad.

none taken. To be honest no.

 

Sorry for the repost lol
I just checked the fluids and tranny fluid is low
So would that be the reason why its behaving the way it is? Also the shift nob feels hard when changing from park to drive could that be associated with the low tranny fluid?

 

depending on how low it is, very easily, the pump could be sucking air instead of fluid

hard shifter knob, not really, but in a very unlikely way the valve inide the tranny for the shifter, could be so packed with debris that it is sticking, but more then likely that be through all the gears

 

So do you still suggest I get the new tranny put in?

 

Get some HONDA tranny fluid and get the level back up first and see what she does, I would be willing to risk $20-$30 in fluid to find out if I really need a new tranny.

 

Should've been clearer. When I said shift gate I meant the physical silver piece that surrounds the shifter. If the 2G shift gate prevented the shifter from moving into certain positions, I was going to check into retrofitting an 07 shift gate.

Could you check out 1, 2, D3, D4, and SS mode for us? See if those modes work with the 07 tranny?

 

yeah, a couple dollars, vs. $3-4,000, you decide what is worth trying first

shift gate does not matter at all, it is all in the shifter itself, shifter cable still only goes striaght back and forth , so as long as it fits in the shifter opening, and is the correct height (if you want an OE look), it will more then likely work no problem (biggest thing i would worry about is the shifter throw between each gear not being correct, but that proably would not have change at all over the years)

 

This is what I really wanted to know in my first question. I wanted to know if all the 2G transmission modes would physically work with 07 TL/Odyssey transmissions.

Say the Ody transmission only has D5, D3, and L. If I put that transmission in my TL, will it be able to work in D4, 2, and 1, modes too? The Ody transmission shifter may not be able to physically go past D3, so 2 and 1 would be useless on the shiftgate.

So, to cut the shit and get straight to the question, will an Odyssey transmission support all 2G transmission modes? (P, R, N, D5, SS, D4, D3, 2 & 1)

Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer!

BTW, it was a G37 sedan with the 7-speed automatic. Shifter vibrated like crazy and was annoying as hell. Cadillac CTS 3.6 did the same but wasn't as bad.

 

proably not, as said depend on the modes on the ody tranny, the tl shifter may not go all the way down (but you really would have to check out the modes on the ody tranny to be absolutly sure; for some reason an i think an ody might have an OverDrive switch, instead of D5, but not totally sure
also SS will still work as long as you can get the shifter into D5, shifter cable does not move at all, as said before that position is just an electictronic position, so nothing is change inside the tranny itself


and the G37 proably has an actual rod linkage (which can transmit more of the vibration up to the shifter, cause it's rigid) for shifting the tranny, compared to a flexiable cable like our cars


also the CTS is proably the same thing with the rod linkage

 

if there is an OD button on the ody it would look like this proably TL=ODY
D5=D
D4=D3
D3=2
2=1
1= useless

so you then might have to add an switch, but then that would mean it would not be compatable with our ecu, cause we got no switch, so more then likely all modes will be compatable with the tl shifter on the ody tranny

 

[QUOTE=friesm2000;11650172]yeah, a couple dollars, vs. $3-4,000, you decide what is worth trying first

yeah your guys are right i need to put more tranny fluid in. i just need some time to do all this. stupid job has us working 12h shifts all this week i need some free time bad. on the other hand i already bought a tranny had it since last week. i think i might still get it put in because who knows how long the old owner was driving the car with real low tranny fluid and that tranny might be on its last leg.

 

Learning more and more every post. lol

So, guess I'm waiting on p.diddy to come back to see if all his modes work with the 07 TL tranny.

 

ok here is what u need to do.

check all fluids.
change the oil.
refill tranny
change plugs
new battery
check all bulbs
rotate tires
make sure psi is good
new fuses all around
brakes inspected and replaced
get good rotors
refill with 92 and put a nice bit of injector cleaner in there
remove intake manifold and clean the EGR port

THEN ask us if there are problems

 

Yes they all work, part of my install procedure is to do a 5-4-3 fluid change running it thru each gear with the wheels off the ground to get clean fluid rinsed thru the tranny. Mechanically all of these 5spd AT are basically the same, there were some oiling improvements in the newer ones, but the basic mechanics are the same.

 

,
first of all, you don't really have to replace the battery as PM as long as you got a good battery, and test it occasionally (when new, not really needed, but as it gets more age on it, needs to be tested periodadically (sp?)
also why the f*** do you replace the fuses , never heard of them being replaced as PM; how many cars are out there with well over 200,000 miles and all the fuses are still origional??? now i understand maybe increased resistence in them, but that is none significant/very little
then technacally speaking only 91 octane is recommended by the manual/honda

 

Thanks alot man.

 

Alright, since I've never got anything from a junkyard, I gotta ask:

How do you guys get the transmissions out of the junkyard and to the shop? Also, how much room is there for error in this kind of procedure? I'm just not sure how often shops do this sort of a thing (fitting off-model transmissions on the car, I mean)

Also, places near me have a few '06 TL 5AT transmissions, are those good, or would I need an 07 or 08? There's also an 08 here, but I wanted to make sure..

 

they deliver it, or they ship it to us , but if you are going to pick it up personally, borrows a friends truck, and have them put it in the back for you (a van could work too, just not as easy to load and unload), then when you get home, make sure to have a cherry picker,or a couple of friends help you offload it

 

possible error, none if you want it to be perfect, but for the most part it should be a direct removing the old tranny and putting the new one in
but now the prep work on the new tranny (like the drilling and tapping), i would say not much, cause first of all you don't want to drill too deep, cause then you just put aluminuim shavings straight into the case, which is never good (and you can never get them all out) (sealing the case after going through the case would be no problem, just put some thread sealent on the bolts)
second when you drill and tap the bolt holes you need to be striaght on (there is some leeway, but best to be striaght), or else when you tighten up the bolt, it might snap off the head of the bolt from being cock-eyed

 

Oh, they deliver it? I was under the impression all junk dealers didn't have such services... Good, seeing as how I don't know anyone who has a truck and would let me pick up a transmission in it.

They're those kinds of people that buy pickup trucks to take to their jobs at the office.