FYI-They sell the actuator on eBay.

 

Thanks.. yes I saw them on ebay but they are not available continuously or with any available count of at least 1
they are usually listed as 0
we will have to to talk to the manufacturer and seller on ebay maybe

 

i can't find the wga ..ebay or amazon

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MHI-Tur...-/183366531067

I messaged the seller and they said they are getting more soon.

 

I also found out they do ground shipping for free too on their official website:

https://turboturbos.com/products/493...20030037852230

 

 

I found this on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TD04HL-Turb...-/183537990031

A reman turbo but they installed a brand new 49389-18470 actuator.

 

 

have you (or anyone else here) ever tried to contact them directly and ask to be on their waiting list?

 

 

@VinoRed are you still working on your RDX?

 

It looks like 49389-18470 actuator are back in stock as of this writing:

https://turboturbos.com/products/49389-18470

 

 

Just a heads up the cost for the VGT actuator clip/linkage has been reduced due to process improvements and volume. Now $180 USD ea. shipping included lifetime warranty.

Thanks,

Darren

 

I have the same problem with my rdx. Looks like the actuators are out of stock again. Has anyone found another source? I found this, seems a little steep in price though.

Acura RDX Turbo Variable Flow Actuator Bolt

 

Which is better, the entire actuator, or the bolt. If the actuator is $35 more, wouldn't it be better to get the entire assembly. I don't have any problems yet, just curious. Has anyone replaced the whole actuator?

 

It's a good point, although my personal inclination would be to do which ever is easier...

 

Why not just get a rebuild turbo with a new bigger billet compressor wheel and bored out housing? 🐴 +

 

CS, who is going to put this turbo in? How much labor cost is there to remove and reinstall a turbo? I have never attempted such a thing. Most I have done is replaced the Intercooler and put the little Hondata Heat Shield gasket in. Can't imaging taking off the turbo. But maybe I am wrong in thinking it is too hard.

 

From who? I've tried getting one from someone on this forum who was trying to scam me.

 

Well hello folks, I figured, i would chime in here. I had this problem last year 2 codes exactly. P2263 and P0234. I took to a honda guy, they were able to fix it, not sure what they did (changed a few sensors, removed secondary cat, reprogrammed computer.) but i passed inspection and car ran good for 1 year Exactly 365 days, like literally.

Anyway, I bought the wastegate Actuator from ebay, was $295 (could of gotten cheaper, but the one place was not getting their order for another month). Actuator went on great, no hastle or fuss. Took my mechanic about 90 minutes with breaks. Anyway, we cleared the computer actually reset computer. Took the car for a drive with the computer connected.

Care drove great, but at 3k-4k at full throttle and full boost, car bucks and shutters. Pending code working its way back was P0234, didnt hit but was pending. Ok drove car as usual (i want to see it actually hit the clock and show up on screen). Yesterday, the screen lit-up (SH-AWD, emissions, etc, basically limp mode). I scanned car again to see what codes i get (i knew 0234 would show up). I wanted to see if 2236 would.

The ONLY code that showed up twice was P0234. In my estimation, the actuator assembly "worked" for the 2263. I need to know what to do for P0234. I believe its one of the solenoids near the turbo. One was replaced the other was not. I am going to replace that one and reset computer as well and see.

My question everyone is talking about 2263 but NO one has said anyting about 0234. They are one in the same kind of. Thoughts?

Lastly, is everyone on the FB group? "Acura RDX builds/buy/sell/trade community"

Let me know about 0234

 

Well, at 157k miles, my off throttle noise has finally manifested into p2263. Going to talk to my local Honda shop to see if they can replace the bolt for me since it's not exactly a book job. Watching the videos, I'm just not sure I want to tackle the full replacement myself. In the meantime I'll try adjusting the lock nut to take up the slack.

 

I would use these guys I called and were friendly and answered all of my questions...

Blouch Turbo

I don’t trust anyone, I know that shop has been around for awhile and I don’t need to deal with any third parties.

Im sorry to hear about the scamming I hate that bullshit.

 

It looks like the 49389-18470 actuators are back in stock again:

https://turboturbos.com/products/49389-18470

 

Does anyone know where to get the retainer clip that holds the actuator linkage on the shaft? The last person that owned my car jerry rigged a metal filler and didn't put the clip back on.

 

Folks who have done this: any tips on getting the retainer clip back on after the bolt is on place? That's killing me right now, and I know once it's on it'll be (mostly) smooth sailing.

 

Nevermind - was able to slide it on with a pair of needlenose pliers. All put back together and immediately upon starting the noise I was hearing before is gone. Here's my comparison - 158k miles.

 

So the light triggered later in the day, and I looked at it this morning, figuring I just needed to adjust how far down the barrel was on the bolt. Turns out I didn't tighten the locking nut enough, and the entire bolt backed out. It was just hanging there, not even connected to the actuator. Car still drove ok, but made practically zero boost under 3000 rpm. I was essentially driving with the "door wide open", so at low engine speeds there just wasn't enough exhaust velocity to spin up the turbo. So, for those dealing with and tracking this issue, take some comfort knowing that it will not render your car motionless at any point, but obviously the CEL will prevent you from passing inspection or emissions in most cases. In the meantime, my bolt is cranked back on, I have my low-end power back, and just waiting for enough cycles to pass so the light goes back off.

 

Happy to report that after a weekend of driving, car has gone through enough cycles to trigger all the emissions checks, and the light turned back off. Thanks again to all those that contributed toward this fix in terms of instructions, videos, and especially Darren for fabbing up a replacement bolt. Between this, new suspension bits and new tires in the last 2 months, the car is probably in the best shape it has been since I purchased it.

 

So I just want to share my experience (ongoing in a way) with this code and my 2010 rdx 133k. I ordered the actuator to replace the old worn out one on my car and struggled terribly to get the new part on, so i took it to honda (because acura is 2+ hours away) and they were afraid to touch it because they couldn't get enough information from the engine codes.(That's some BS if I ever heard it) Before they touched it they said probably around 700 to attach the part. Ended up taking it to a local shop they got it on for 300 bucks.(Not bad in my opinion) All they had to do was take the valve cover off and they could reach the bolts easier which is what i thought but I chickened out and took it in.( worth noting rdx valve cover gaskets are reusable so no need to worry about that.) My car now is powerful again, more so then the first day I bought it, but it will now throw new codes VSA134, I don't remember the code but throttle position sensor, and it just threw the P2263 code again???? I am so beyond frustrated with this vehicle, but it drives so nice and I don't want to get rid of it hell I've only owned it for about 3 months. I've got a more complete ODBII reader coming today(Bluetooth one doesn't do ABS/TCS/VSA) and hopefully I can get some more information on these codes.

 

If you're getting P2263 again, inspect the bolt. Not sure if you read my story just above, but when I replaced mine I did not tighten the locking nut enough and it backed out completely. Alternatively, if your bolt is still connected, it may need to be adjusted up or down the shaft so that it's completely closing and opening the valve when the actuator moves the arm. If it's not completely closing, you're leaving some low-end torque on the table. If it's not completely opening, you're losing some top-end power. If significant, the car will pick up on this and throw the code.

The good news is you can adjust it fairly easily with a couple 10mm wrenches, and you do not need to take the bolt back off. Just loosen the lock nut, adjust the large bolt, and tighten the lock nut back down. If that doesn't fix the issue, you may need to look at the actuator itself - could be damaged inside or leaking.

The VSA code...could be many things. Speed sensor, steering angle sensor, even a bad alignment.

 

I will also add, that although I do not share the same issue with the actuator, it has been checked, and I have no power loss, I do get the persistent, and intermittent emissions code. I think there are so many variances and possibilities as these engines get older that would throw that code, that fixing one thing can cause another, or there are multiple reasons that could simultaneously be causing it. Fix one, but another pops up. Like a cracked hose, air leaks, and of course the typical turbo function variables like the actuator. I have more or less been driving with this code for 5 years, and had no ill effects, no power loss, and no long term impacts to the performance with the code being on during regular operation. Occasionally the code goes away for a week or two, then comes back. Whenever I go to my trusted mechanic, who only works on Honda's and Acura's, and I ask them about it, he tells me that if I am not experiencing turbo function problems, and there are no apparent and obvious signs of impending or critical problems, keep driving and ignore it. So, if you go through everything above, fine tune your power loss fix, and still have the code, but everything seems fine....forget trying to trace this down, you may never economically find it.

 

The car is pretty sensitive, and it may detect something that the seat of your pants cannot. I could not notice any particular driving issue when I first threw the code - my only real symptom was an off-throttle / idle rattle. Even peering at the bolt with the hood up, it only looked very slightly oval, but once I get it out, it was clear.

That said, you are correct that there are other causes for this code, with a worn bolt simply being the most common at this point in time. There is also no real long term harm that I can see in not treating the issue, although in my case I had to because my car would fail emissions test. If the bolt does somehow wear completely through, you'll lose some low end power, but the car will still soldier on.

 

Okay so i checked the bolt and the linkage was a little loose so i tightened it up and it seems to have done the trick. VSA 134 says steering angle sensor, but i needed an alignment anyway so i just got that done and will update if it happened to fix it. Otherwise I will let you know how the Steering angle sensor replacement goes.

 

Everyone trying to adjust the nut to keep the codes away, please be aware of something very important: adjusting the nut while it's still attached on both sides to the threaded rods does NOTHING!!! The threaded rods on both sides of the nut will stay equidistant from each other, and the nut effectively goes down one rod as it goes up the other. See what I'm saying? the gap between the two rods remains constant and you're not actually adjusting anything that matters.

The correct way to do it is to unthread one rod completely from the nut, THEN adjust the nut up or down on the remaining rod, THEN carefully thread the first rod back in. This way you change the gap distance between the two threaded rods. Get it? Take one rod out, adjust the nut on the remaining rod, then thread the other rod on (carefully, having it engage immediately, so you know about how much gap is now between the rods).

Just loosening the lock nut, and turning the other nut a few times will not do anything at all. Because you're not adjusting the gap between the threaded rod, you're just moving the nut up and down on them while the gap stays at the same distance. If one rod were to unthread some and the other stayed in place, that would make a difference, but that's not what happens when you just turn the nut. It just moves up and down while the rods stay in place.

 

When I disassemble mine the clip wasn't there, I order a box on amazon with different sizes and problem solve.

 

UPDATE: Linkage was tight and still got the code, going to try unthreading the eyelet like QFT said tonight because i assume it is just as loose at it was yesterday now since i finally understand what he was saying. Also getting e-clips to replace the one I lost. Update on the steering angle sensor I reset everything to zero with a sensor with abs/airbag ability and that got rid of my code for weeks now. just the remaining P2263 code left..wish me luck!

 

My RDX has Around 130,000 miles. Last week I got the p2263 code and after driving about 80 miles it went away. Now all I notice is lack of power and the turbo gauge doesn’t go higher than half way. I’m getting normal mpg’s I love my RDX so much that I bought the 2019. I see that everyone is talking about actuator. Should I give it a try and change it or go to the dealer and get ripped off. The only real issues that I’ve had in the past was the ac clutch which I changed the whole compressor. Has anyone had success with changing the actuator? Ohh happy 4th of July to all of you.

 

It's most likely the worn bolt on the actuator, but inspect it yourself to be sure. You should be able to see the ovaling of the bolt with the hood up, and you should hear the rattle of it at idle and/or off-throttle. If you don't notice either one but still got the code, could be something else. This is also normally a very gradual onset, and to me it sounds like you're describing something sudden. I'd be curious if something else in the actuator has failed, preventing it from opening the flow on the turbo (perhaps a break in the line preventing pressure build up)?

Either way, the bolt is easier to tackle than the whole actuator, and both are better than paying a dealer several thousand for a turbo replacement. Try to observe all symptoms as best you can, and post up if you still have questions before tackling the repair.