Bearings came today and fits perfectly, slip fit, not too tight or loose. Tight enough to not fall out.

 

This is awesome !!! Let me know if it works out ...

 

I emailed Blouch and asked if they would be interested in doing it while upgrading, haven't heard back yet. I'll follow up on it next week.
I'd even be ok with them using the idea for others. Stopping the wear issue would be a great upgrade.
BTW

 

2011 RDX with 180,000 and I received the P2263 code. All signs led to the turbo and with high mileage, I went ahead and replaced it with an OEM rebuilt turbo. A very good friend/Honda Tech performed the job on the side. Unfortunately, the code came back a week later. Has anyone had any issues with rebuilt turbos in this situation?

The vehicle runs great with no performance issues. Normal around town driving is fine, but when we drive the vehicle on longer trips 20-30 minutes and it's hot the code will reappear. We've performed DTC P2263 troubleshooting and everything appears to good.

 

Ouch. We have a 2008 with 175K on it and was planning on getting the turbo rebuilt. Your experience is making me rethink that path.

I'm curious. Did you replace all hose/vac lines and sensors as part of the work?

 

We did not replace any hoses or vac lines. All appeared to be in good shape. We are going to smoke test what we can this week. Hopefully, we'll find something. The old turbo definitely had the worn actuator bolt and a loud rattle when let off the accelerator. So I feel it turbo definitely needed to be replaced.

My buddy talked to our local Acura dealership about this and they said it could be an issue with using a rebuilt turbo. I don't like this answer.

 

If the actuator isn't adjusted correctly it can cause the code.

 

So you're implying that the actuator bolt wasn't adjusted correctly when they rebuilt the turbo?

 

What did you end doing here? Did you purchase your turbo from buyautoparts.com?

 

Just saying it is a possible cause, not implying anything. Computers do what computers do, they don't care who did what, unless you reprogram it to do what you want.

 

Well, it seems it took me 154,000 miles for the worn down actuator bolt code as I now have it as well as the rattling when letting off the gas pedal.

 

Well the good news is, you've helped everyone in this forum so much, now we can pay it back with the knowledge in this thread.

 

That's almost the exact same mileage that I did mine at. Some slim profile wrenches, 20+ gauge wire, and a replacement bolt, and you'll be back on the road in 2 hours.

 

Thanks, everyone I appreciate it! Does this item look good for the repair?

 

That should do it. When I did mine, I think the only option was the guy in Canada that was making these for a little over $100, so it's nice to see more options and lower prices now. Nice to see the extras as well. You can certainly re-use your own nut and clip, but they'll be good to have in case you drop yours into the abyss. I *almost* lost my clip, it would have been bad.

 

Yeah, I saw on other threads people paying $150 plus shipping just for the one piece kind of supply and demand capitalism I guess as it was a custom milled piece at that time. I have an extension magnet but not sure if there is enough metal to hold it or pick it up if I drop the washer or the nut.

 

Let us know how the install went.

 

Still waiting on the part, might wait until cooler weather to install it. Dealing with excessive heat right now by me.

 

Should be no harm in driving it. Eventually you may trigger the code (if you haven't already), but the only actual symptom is going to be a lack of low-end power. You may not even notice it now since it happens so gradually as the bolt wears, but once the new bolt is on you should see the car able to generate a little more boost pressure in the lower rpm range.

 

Yeah, I already got:
P2263: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost System Performance
Status: Confirmed/Pending/Engine Control Module Trouble Code

 

Yep - take it easy and the code will probably go away after several drive cycles. Lean into it though and it should come right back.

 

Yeah, for right now I've just been clearing it so my sh-awd isn't disabled because I also get the over-boost code too

 

Old parts installed

New parts to be installed

Parts came in now the wait for cooler weather begins!!!

 

Good angle on your current bolt - you can clearly see the wear on it. I actually slipped wire through that gap to stop the bolt from falling once I unscrewed it. But on the the replacement I wrapped it around the base of the bolt instead. The clip will probably be the hardest part to remove/replace. Some needle-nose pliers may come in useful.

 

Thanks I got these just for this job, hopefully they help. Thanks, took me a few to get that shot. I need to got to Home Depot to find some metal wire like you did on your job. Thanks a ton for the input!

 

not an ez task. trying again

 

That might be the most worn bolt I've seen yet. Was it still clinging to the actuator arm at that point or had it slipped out completely?

 

It was still on there and my guess the clip fell off too but I read someone else didn't have a clip? bought mines without a clip for $16 thinking I'd use the old clip but nope. hopefully it will stay on (held by the actuator) , lol

for me my first time it couldn't go in, even its right parallel to the eye...some wd40 spray on both part helped. piece being tied to a fishing line and tied to the frame on top (has a hole). after that, right arm if you're right handled to find the really tight spot which is the front of the bumper sliding to the rear. once its there,I press it in with my left fingers.
the screwing on was easy. I use a pliers to push up the arm and it looked straight. counterclockwise it and it was in. now I have no idea how lose it suppose to be. should it be tight or some wiggle room?

 

That is very worn. Do you live in an area that is dusty where sand/grit could've accelerated the wear? How many miles do you have?

 

160k bought it like that. Been sitting since 2019 with 2 check engine lights. the other were the pressure switch witch I just finish replacing. time for some oil changes. got it real cheap, couldn't pass up.

 

E-CLIP

anybody know the size I should pick up? home depo has it

 

I have solved my 2263 error on my 2012 RDX, and would like to share my story. Is this the correct forum for this? I'm not used to posting on forums. Thanks.

 

Yes, this is the spot

 

On one of the hottest days of summer 2020, my wife came home and told me that our 2012 RDX have a error message on the display. I noticed that there was now a metallic clanging sound coming from the engine area. Checked with the code reader, and was getting the P2263 error.
Did what everyone in the forum posts recommended. Tried adjusting the actuator rod length, bought a replacement eye bolt even though mine looked perfectly round with no stretching (could not get new part to fit), bought a complete Mitsubishi actuator assembly and had it installed by Acura dealer,
replaced all 3 of the solenoid assemblies that control the pressure to the actuators.
Nothing worked. Would get P2263 within a day or two. The weird thing is once winter set it, did not get any errors until things started warming up in spring 2021. Soon as it hit about 10 deg Celsius, P2263 started again. Back to getting error message as before.
Love my RDX, but did not want to spend over $7,000 CDN on a new dealer installed turbo.
This forum provided me with info that led me to think that the wastegate valve was partially jammed from lack of use (we don't drive our RDX very hard). Decided to dive in a try to locate the tubing that controls the actuator. Once I was sure I had the correct tubing, started applying air pressure to look for movement of the pushrod.
Since I had no idea how much pressure is used I started low, I used my old actuator and determined that 30psi worked well,and did not damaged it.
I applied the 30psi to the wastegate actuator and nothing happened. After a few attempts, I noticed the pushrod move ever so slightly. I kept at it, and the pushrod moved more and more. Eventually things freed up to where the pushrod would now travel about an inch with ease, and I could hear when the wastegate closed.
Exercised the valve until I was confident that it was as free as it was going to get. Reassembled everything, and began driving the car.
First thing I noticed was how smooth the engine now ran, and how much more pep it had. Drove thru the hottest days of summer from mid July onward without any P2263 errors. It's now October 9, and have driven the RDX a total of 1,600KM without any problems. Runs smooth as silk without issues, and no clanging sound. I consider the problem resolved!
I wanted to share my experience because without this forum, I never would have been able to figure it out, and probably would have traded the car in by now.

 

Thanks for sharing your story, my P2263 Turbocharger Boost System Performance will not go away. I changed both actuators with brand new one's and literally removed the battery for hours. The code is now back...any ideas on how to get rid of it for good?

 

Since you live in NY where they salt the roads, is it possible the waste gate valve is sticking due to rust build up? The pics you posted back in August show a good amount of build up around the area. We have a 2008 and it's just a thin layer of grime by comparison (we don't salt the roads when it snows here in TX - we just stay off 'em unit 10 am when it melts away.)

@Marcky noted he had to manually work it with compressed air until it moved freely for him.

 

Are you talking about the internal valve inside the turbo, because I replaced the bottom and top waste gate actuator with brand new one's?

 

Not the actuator - the gate (inside the throat) rotates on a shaft that has an arm attached to the actuator. Any build up around where the arm connects to the gate could be enough resistance to prevent the gate from rotating freely when pressure hits the valve.

I know how much a pain it is to remove the connector. I think that's why Marcky use compressed air on the valve instead.

 

The wastegate valve is probably mechanically stuck from corrosion. The actuator (even if brand new), does not have enough force to free it. That's why I used compressed air to slowly get motion going until it freed up.

 

Hi all, I thought I would post an update to my 2007 RDX. I had replaced the Actuator piece with the hardened aftermarket one (approx $50 from Ebay). After about 3 years the P2263 code came back and disabled the SH-AWD.
I happened to be in State College, near an excellent Auto Diagnostician (Pine Hollow Auto) and he diagnosed and fixed it in 2 hours. Just a simple adjustment to the slack in the rod.
He just posted a video on the repair, and it's EXCELLENT!
His repair is still holding after about 1000 miles.