P2263 Turbo problems
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 156
Likes: 30
my tuner reported back he could see intermittent failure before the CIL then failure at the CIL. He recommends changing it.
I’m good. There are a few videos out there on changing it.
i am just confused. If u google the part number, it shows listings for the part for $17. Yet, the oem Acura parts places want $117. I will look into the junkyard option as well
I’m good. There are a few videos out there on changing it.
i am just confused. If u google the part number, it shows listings for the part for $17. Yet, the oem Acura parts places want $117. I will look into the junkyard option as well
Up in canuck land a starter was 400$+ advertised. I got it at dealerships for 235Cad taxes in. That was cheaper than OEM acura parts listed in freedom dollars.
Likewise some parts up here are more expensive.
Call a dealership directly, they may have a decent price given it should be a fairly universal part amongst hondas.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 80
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
I'm facing the P2263 problem on my 2011 RDX (just bought it used). I tightened the turnbuckle on the flow control actuator to remove all slack (I hope that's the right procedure) . The eyelet part (connected to the actuator) was replaced 5 years ago according to receipts, so I don't think it could be worn out. But there was some up/down play which I got rid of. Still, P2263 reoccurs. Does general play (up or down) cause P2263 - or only if there is slack when pulling up the eye bolt.
After reading this lengthy thread, it would be useful for me (and others) to summarize some important points - hopefully someone can answer these:
1. Should the arm coming out of the actuator spin freely? (There seems to be no clear answer though asked a few times) Two people said theirs spun, one person said their replacement did NOT spin.
2. Should the flow control actuator be sealed? (or should it slowly bleed pressure/vacuum)
3. Is it ok for the eye bolt to be worn out of round, so long ask you can remove all slack by turning the turnbuckle?
4. If I do WOT from stopped what should I expect to see on the turbo gauge? Is turbo full on/off, or should it decrease slowly as I reach target speed? (Im new to turbo) I don't know if this tells me anything diagnostically but it was discussed briefly.
5. If P2263 reoccurs even after slack has been removed from flow control actuator shaft, is next step to replace actuator? I saw this action taken by a couple of people in this thread, but no follow-up to say if it eventually solved their problem permanently.
6. Can the flow control actuator be removed with the rocker cover in place? If not, how big a job is this?
I saw some Toronto area commenters, did any of find a shop that will disable the P2263 error via firmware change? If so, what did you pay, where, and was that an acceptable solution?
A summary on the above should help newcomers like me...thanks
After reading this lengthy thread, it would be useful for me (and others) to summarize some important points - hopefully someone can answer these:
1. Should the arm coming out of the actuator spin freely? (There seems to be no clear answer though asked a few times) Two people said theirs spun, one person said their replacement did NOT spin.
2. Should the flow control actuator be sealed? (or should it slowly bleed pressure/vacuum)
3. Is it ok for the eye bolt to be worn out of round, so long ask you can remove all slack by turning the turnbuckle?
4. If I do WOT from stopped what should I expect to see on the turbo gauge? Is turbo full on/off, or should it decrease slowly as I reach target speed? (Im new to turbo) I don't know if this tells me anything diagnostically but it was discussed briefly.
5. If P2263 reoccurs even after slack has been removed from flow control actuator shaft, is next step to replace actuator? I saw this action taken by a couple of people in this thread, but no follow-up to say if it eventually solved their problem permanently.
6. Can the flow control actuator be removed with the rocker cover in place? If not, how big a job is this?
I saw some Toronto area commenters, did any of find a shop that will disable the P2263 error via firmware change? If so, what did you pay, where, and was that an acceptable solution?
A summary on the above should help newcomers like me...thanks
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 296
Tightening the connecting bolt between the actuator arm and the nut doesn't necessarily fix it because there the nut is still worn out. You're basically shifting the slack to the other end of the actuator movement, but it's still there, and may still cause the light to pop. Outside of less-than-ideal boost response and a check engine light there is no real harm in this, but I think replacing the bolt is the way to go.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 267
Likes: 93
I'm facing the P2263 problem on my 2011 RDX (just bought it used). I tightened the turnbuckle on the flow control actuator to remove all slack (I hope that's the right procedure) . The eyelet part (connected to the actuator) was replaced 5 years ago according to receipts, so I don't think it could be worn out. But there was some up/down play which I got rid of. Still, P2263 reoccurs. Does general play (up or down) cause P2263 - or only if there is slack when pulling up the eye bolt.
After reading this lengthy thread, it would be useful for me (and others) to summarize some important points - hopefully someone can answer these:
1. Should the arm coming out of the actuator spin freely? (There seems to be no clear answer though asked a few times) Two people said theirs spun, one person said their replacement did NOT spin.
2. Should the flow control actuator be sealed? (or should it slowly bleed pressure/vacuum)
3. Is it ok for the eye bolt to be worn out of round, so long ask you can remove all slack by turning the turnbuckle?
4. If I do WOT from stopped what should I expect to see on the turbo gauge? Is turbo full on/off, or should it decrease slowly as I reach target speed? (Im new to turbo) I don't know if this tells me anything diagnostically but it was discussed briefly.
5. If P2263 reoccurs even after slack has been removed from flow control actuator shaft, is next step to replace actuator? I saw this action taken by a couple of people in this thread, but no follow-up to say if it eventually solved their problem permanently.
6. Can the flow control actuator be removed with the rocker cover in place? If not, how big a job is this?
I saw some Toronto area commenters, did any of find a shop that will disable the P2263 error via firmware change? If so, what did you pay, where, and was that an acceptable solution?
A summary on the above should help newcomers like me...thanks
After reading this lengthy thread, it would be useful for me (and others) to summarize some important points - hopefully someone can answer these:
1. Should the arm coming out of the actuator spin freely? (There seems to be no clear answer though asked a few times) Two people said theirs spun, one person said their replacement did NOT spin.
Yes, unless there's a problem internally with the actuator this shaft is designed to turn freely to be able to unthread or adjust the eye bolt. The shaft goes through a sandwich of a bottom metal washer plate-diaphragm-top washer metal plate and is designed turn without twisting the diaphragm.
The diaphragm inside the actuator canister should be sealed, if it's leaking the diaphragm is torn
You cannot remove slack/play if the eye bolt or pin are worn, adjusting can only result in moving where the gap is, above or below the pin.
I don't know all the inputs into the gauge reading, such as whether is it a requested boost reading or an actual boost reading and it's really not going to tell you anything diagnostically unless there's a major problem such as showing no boost.
You can't remove slack, you can only move where the slack is showing up. If the P2263 is being caused by slack in the eye bolt and pin then you can replace the eye bolt and fix the problem if the pin is not also badly worn. If the pin is badly worn then it will also need to be replaced but then the repair becomes more difficult. The pins are available and can be replaced but shops will tell you you'll need a new turbo because of the time/labor and skills needed to replace the pin.
The boost control actuator can be replaced with the turbo in the car but it's not an easy repair and you really don't need to replace this actuator unless you've confirmed there's a problem with the diaphragm leaking
I've read of people being able to delete this code using Hondata flashpro (I think) but I don't have any experience doing this.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 80
Likes: 1
From: Ontario, Canada
That's a great summary thanks - maybe even worth being pinned. Now that I understand that slack above OR below (i.e. any) can cause the P2263 I think I'll buy another eye bolt.
I've seen some youtube video's showing the pin (going into the eyelet) wears to but that is just beyond me - I'll investigate disabling the message before I attempt that.
I'll update the forum with results after I'm done (waiting for a warm day, my garage is freezing in February)
I've seen some youtube video's showing the pin (going into the eyelet) wears to but that is just beyond me - I'll investigate disabling the message before I attempt that.
I'll update the forum with results after I'm done (waiting for a warm day, my garage is freezing in February)
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 236
Likes: 34
From: Lansing, MI
In sum:
had the code, checked the nut & not loose, replaced turbo, 2k miles later code again, took to dealer, they said front intercooler pipe was cracked so replaced, changed MAF, tuner reviewed datalogs & saw knock spike right before code was thrown, changed knock sensor & reviewed new logs, no problems since.
had the code, checked the nut & not loose, replaced turbo, 2k miles later code again, took to dealer, they said front intercooler pipe was cracked so replaced, changed MAF, tuner reviewed datalogs & saw knock spike right before code was thrown, changed knock sensor & reviewed new logs, no problems since.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 267
Likes: 93
That's a great summary thanks - maybe even worth being pinned. Now that I understand that slack above OR below (i.e. any) can cause the P2263 I think I'll buy another eye bolt.
I've seen some youtube video's showing the pin (going into the eyelet) wears to but that is just beyond me - I'll investigate disabling the message before I attempt that.
I'll update the forum with results after I'm done (waiting for a warm day, my garage is freezing in February)
I've seen some youtube video's showing the pin (going into the eyelet) wears to but that is just beyond me - I'll investigate disabling the message before I attempt that.
I'll update the forum with results after I'm done (waiting for a warm day, my garage is freezing in February)
P2263 workaround (ECU reflash) - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
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Omar Quiroa
1G RDX (2007-2012)
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May 10, 2017 07:43 AM
Eastcoaster
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Apr 21, 2016 06:37 AM
