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I had the p2263 code for many miles. When I look at the turbo gauge, it would push to the max constantly.
I had never changed the spark plugs, and am not sure if the previous owner did. I was a bit nervous about taking off the intercooler, as I was afraid I would mess something up. It is not too hard if you have the correct tools, and would be easier if I had smaller hands.
The plugs looked pretty bad, caked with a bunch of stuff, though the iridium tip was clean.
After re-assemblng the system, I cleared the code and drove around. The car feels very different to drive. It feels more powerful, and the boost gauge acts differently, for example, if I press the accelerator while in park, the boost gauge would float to the top. After the spark plug change, it does not move in park unless i REALLY punch it.
I did rinse out the fins of the intercooler to remove the following:
1. Dirt
2. Sticks
3. Seeds
4. leaves
5. Bees
6. Flys
7. A beetle of some type.
I considered using Simple Green or Dawn on it, but decided against it. it does not seem like any of the bent fins are broken, because no water collected inside.
I noticed that there are two gaskets that go with the UFO looking thing attached to the front of the intercooler. They seemed a bit stiff. I might change them, just because they feel so stiff.
I am not sure if cleaning the intercooler had any effect on it, if it was the spark plugs, or maybe a hose was repositioned or tightened?
Loved your post about the items getting stuck in the Intercooler. Did you notice a decreasing MPG with the code, and has it improved after changing plugs and cleaning?
Loved your post about the items getting stuck in the Intercooler. Did you notice a decreasing MPG with the code, and has it improved after changing plugs and cleaning?
Well, my code came back later the following day.
My average MPG shows at 18.6, when it was previously showing an average of 16.5.
I think I'm going to have to figure it out, as this is the year that I think I will need to pass smog. With a huge flashing CHECK EMISSIONS SYSTEM on the dash, I doubt I will pass.
The car seems smoother, but if I idle, every once in a while I feel a slight "jerk" . I am sure that is not a proper diagnostic term, but it is what it seems like. Now, that same "jerk" is normally felt at the moment that the check engine light comes on with p2263.
I used an ODB2 tester, that shows my vacuum is around 19.5, is that normal?
I think I will try to replace the solenoids and air bypass valves to see if that cures the problem.
I really don't wish to change vehicles, or pay for expensive repairs at this point. I can deal with poor gas mileage.
Is there a way to pressure test the intercooler, like the way you can with a radiator?
With similar problem with my 2008 Acura RDX - Emission and engine check light on- I have car fixed by a local private automotive service specialized in turbo problem. Unlike my dealer's diagnosis - waste gate problem which needs whole turbo system replaced at a cost of $4300 - this local store diagnosed turbo boost pressure sensor malfunction and which is replaced for total $335 parts and labor. So, think twice before you go to a dealer for help without warranty.
With similar problem with my 2008 Acura RDX - Emission and engine check light on- I have car fixed by a local private automotive service specialized in turbo problem. Unlike my dealer's diagnosis - waste gate problem which needs whole turbo system replaced at a cost of $4300 - this local store diagnosed turbo boost pressure sensor malfunction and which is replaced for total $335 parts and labor. So, think twice before you go to a dealer for help without warranty.
Hmmm... Hopefully we can just get a whole new turbo kit.
So this week was my turn for my 2007 RDX (~120Kmiles) to throw codes P2263 and AWD77 while accelerating on the highway.
Took it to the dealer and was diagnosed as malfunctioning turbo boost sensor: $510
No issues after running it through it's paces.
Not cheap but certainly a relief compared to being diagnosed as a blown turbo.
I don't know if it is just me, but it looks like that Turbo Actuator could be just a generic type part, like an 02 sensor is.
Does any one have any pictures of the various sides and angles of the device? I see that that are some available on eBay, and the places that are for other vehicles. I would like to take a close look, but I don't want to take it all apart, just to get the photos for comparison.
It seems that there are psi specs, and some indicate a size like 2.3L...
Is there any chance, that we could replace it with something like these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Wastegate-Vacuum-Actuator-for-VW-Golf-TDI-with-Garrett-VNT-15-Turbocharger-/170994502332?hash=item27d0110abc&vxp=mtr
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Wastegate-Vacuum-Actuator-VW-Folf-TDI-With-Garrett-VNT-15-turbocharger-/161628717717?hash=item25a1d28295&vxp=mtr
or
I don't know if it is just me, but it looks like that Turbo Actuator could be just a generic type part, like an 02 sensor is.
Does any one have any pictures of the various sides and angles of the device? I see that that are some available on eBay, and the places that are for other vehicles. I would like to take a close look, but I don't want to take it all apart, just to get the photos for comparison.
It seems that there are psi specs, and some indicate a size like 2.3L...
Is there any chance, that we could replace it with something like these?
Hey I just own a 2007 rdx with 200 miles down I am having the same codes as most of you here p2263 the turbo charger boost system problem. I can hear a raddle sound as I pin point and assume it's the actuator. The raddling sound comes on after I let go of the gas pedal driving or on idle. If I full throttle while driving on the high way the turbo guage immediately goes to max power and I'm guessing the turbo is overboosting, just wondering if I can replace the actuator with a universal one I found on ebay. My brother in law says that the actuator is not working properly as to visual inspection. What is a recommended way to do it without having to rip the actuator apart. Thx
this is a very well known problem i owned about 12 of them in 3 years same problem that stupid part gets stuck broken or leaks but they dont sell it seperately thats why the dealer tells you the turbo needs to be replaced it comes with that
Funny how we are all having a sensor problems. I cleaned/washed intercooler, MAF, and did plugs a few months ago. bolt back up and boost sensor bad. I think I go tone for $125 or something but still such a pain.
Relatively speaking the car hasn't needed a ton of maintenance. Although this is coming from someone who has had a handful of Audi's and currently "refreshing" a Jaguar..........
The rattling you are hearing from the bay might be from the VGT actuator turnbuckle. The worst thing about it is I haven't been able to find anyone that sells the part that causes the rattle. Before my dad bought the newish turbo he did buy an universal Wastegate actuator off eBay in hopes it would work. Sadly once we got it the end was too small, I'll apologize in advance for the huge pics.
This here is a 190xxx mile VGT actuator end.
And here is a 60k Actuator end.
You can see in the pics how much the 190k one has ovaled and no longer has a solid contact on the rod. I'm going to email Garrett and maybe even Tial to see if this is something I could get made so it would could be a replaceable part and not just having to buy a newish turbo.
have anybody found a a similar replacements piece yet? and any recommendation on remove the water line on the back. it look very very tight spot. thanks
The best way to get those water lines off is the 10mm bolt that holds it to the turbo. After pulling that you can bend the coolant soft lines off to the side, use a zip tie or little bungy cord to hold it.
Get some PB Blaster that will help break them free. That nut closest to the block is the worst because of how hot it gets in that small area. If you use the motor to heat it up that might make the turbo harder to hold once your pulling it out...Don't forget the turbo bracket bolt on the bottom side of it, its a 17mm if I remember right.
yeah, replace another one, then get old turbo rebuild and upgrade. sound like a pain just to remove turbo. since the bottom section barely have anyspace at all
The turbo can come out from the top, once you have it off the head you can maneuver it to the drivers side of the bay and it will come out. Once you unbolt the brake res and the fuse panel bracket you see just how much room there is on that side. Remember to take as many pics(or label) as you can of all those little vacuum lines.
Disconnect the 3 bolts to the rear section of the exhaust and the 2 exhaust bracket bolts(one on the block other it to the down pipe) and with that off you can move the down pipe around to get a swivel socket and an extension in that area. Push the down pipe up and to the passenger side of the car. Its a pain in the ass.
yeah, replace another one, then get old turbo rebuild and upgrade. sound like a pain just to remove turbo. since the bottom section barely have anyspace at all
might i suggest just buying an upgraded turbo to start out instead of doing the work twice? i have several i could drop off at blouch for upgrade. if interested PM me.
You can see in the pics how much the 190k one has ovaled and no longer has a solid contact on the rod. I'm going to email Garrett and maybe even Tial to see if this is something I could get made so it would could be a replaceable part and not just having to buy a newish turbo.
better off going to a local machine shop just my .02
already bought a spare turbo from a member here, dont know where to sent for rebuild and upgrade. if i would know you have one and near them ,i would get it from you. anyway what are thier price point for upgrade and rebuild do you know? was thinking sent to green turbo
do not send a turbo to evergreen. its a waste of time. Blouch in Lebnon PA does GREAT work I'm getting ready to install another of their upgraded turbos for another individual. id be happy to drop one off and have it done you send me yours as a core and you pay them. id also be willing to clean up the casting lines on the factory exhaust housing for you as well. if you want pics i can send them.
08 with 240k on it just started to throw the code and has a rattle sound when off the throttle. First time it has done this suppose I have been lucky, but want to fix it. Trolling until someone finds a part source for these solenoids.
Just looked up P0237 code and its a boost sensor reading low error. So either the turbo is bad and not making boost or the sensor is bad. Or, kind of uncommon but I've heard of catalytic converters getting plugged restricting exhaust flow so much that the turbo cannot make boost. In either case you should be able to tell if your turbo is making boost or not
After a fiasco with Acura and the airbag/AC compressor the car is on to its next problem.
Over last few days I have been getting P0237 codes for the turbo boost sensor. Car will drive fine, then all of a sudden, nothing. Way more than just a hesitation or miss. Like seconds of nothing then limp mode and putter along. I've probably had it about 6 times in last week. First few along with an 02 sensor code but nothing since. My cats are gutted so they are not backed up.
I have been driving with an Autotel Pro scanner ($2k+) and cant seem to catch anything obvious. Last time it happened the the voltage dropped from around 1.7-2 down to less than 1V and limp mode. Couldn't tell if the voltage dropping caused limp mode or the limp mode caused V drop when boost is purged. Car has 160K miles, original Hondata flash, downpipe, gutted cats. Has new plugs, cleaned throttle body, new map sensor and generally been kept up on. Not sure where to go from here.
I bought a whole turbo assembly and intercooler for parts, first part i swapped was the boost/map sensor. After half a day of driving the codes disapeared. next day back on. Next step for me is to swap the actuators and see what happens.
Ill have a extra turbo in the end which I would like to get rebuilt anyone know does it have to goto garret and how much that runs?
Can confirm P2263 code and ovaled wastegate actuator end that rattles after letting off the throttle. I'll see if I can have the actuator pulled and report back.
since i didn't have enough time to remove turbo and replace. what i did for temp fix is add spring (home depot) from the lever to top bracket. so far no cell . Temp for now until i send the other turbo to Blouch to rebuild and find time to replaced.
Can confirm P2263 code and ovaled wastegate actuator end that rattles after letting off the throttle. I'll see if I can have the actuator pulled and report back.
For the sake of closure, this is now fixed! Just had to loosen the locknut and adjust the actuator rod length to take up the slack. Then after re-tightening the locknut the rattling went away and the engine/transmission/emission codes have not returned. Didn't even have to take anything off the engine...just two wrenches and less than an hour to fix something that the dealership wanted $5k for a turbo replacement....
I have a 2008 acura rdx that is killing me. just bought it and major problems and not one of the 3 garages I have been to have been able to fix it ,including the acura dealer. my rdx runs perfect until I drive it up steep hills, then it over heats. the code that comes up is p2263.
245000 km on the RDX and finally got a check engine light. You could hear light rattling when off throttle. The video below shows how much play there is in the variable flow valve arm. I decided to wrap a piece of metal wire around it to reduce the play. ECU is reset, will see how long it holds up for!
Started getting this situation on 09 rdx w/ 108k miles.
Thought I resolved it by cleaning out K&N filter, but after a few days it came back again.
I do have an off-throttle rattle at idle that developed after I changed spark plugs a couple months ago, which I couldn't identify. (video w/ rattle sound in different thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...m-drop-953316/)
My wastegate actuator as shown in previous posts appears to be pretty much fine. There's a miniscule amount of play but nothing like what's illustrated here. When applying shop air to the inlet above, it seems to actuate ok.
Took IC and all attached items off and reattached, didnt' see anything clearly out of sorts. Ran vaccum test on the bypass valve, saw the mechanism inside moving up and down as expected.
I don't have HDS/HIM so I don't know how to test the boost pressure sensor. Does anybody know how to do this? I have other standard OBD2 connectors and software, just not the honda specific one, and I didnt' see any way to access this data.
Next steps as suggested are cleaning the MAF sensor... but not sure what else to do. The off-throttle rattle concerns me but doesn't seem to come with the expected incorrect mechanical behavior in the wastegate, unless I'm misunderstanding what I am looking for it to be doing.
The rattling you are hearing from the bay might be from the VGT actuator turnbuckle. The worst thing about it is I haven't been able to find anyone that sells the part that causes the rattle. Before my dad bought the newish turbo he did buy an universal Wastegate actuator off eBay in hopes it would work. Sadly once we got it the end was too small, I'll apologize in advance for the huge pics.
This here is a 190xxx mile VGT actuator end.
And here is a 60k Actuator end.
now I will weld the washer to the loop
You can see in the pics how much the 190k one has ovaled and no longer has a solid contact on the rod. I'm going to email Garrett and maybe even Tial to see if this is something I could get made so it would could be a replaceable part and not just having to buy a newish turbo.
i thought it might that be after I read a few threads but didn't find a way to confirm it. In the end I couldn't figure anything out and I ended up just buying a new turbo. brutal. $2300 for the turbo + labor. Even though clearly the different parts of it are separate, I guess since it's manufactured by Mitsubishi instead of Honda, there's not a good way to source the parts. Sad monkey. Looking at the old turbo, my turnbuckle wasn't nearly this bad in the pictures, but there is some play. The new turbo is working better, both in feel of drive and no more codes thrown, so clearly something about one of the 2 actuators was causing a real problem. =(
I am also experiencing the P2263 issue too! I did lube one of the diaphragms connected to the actuator and it seem to run longer before CEL.
I am in process of purchasing a replacement turbo and looking for low mileage one for under $500. If not, I may go through your route and spend $2300 for new turbo.
For the new turbo you bought, where did you find it? is it on eBay? can you share the seller?
So, I opted to avoid used ones, as clearly this thing is more than trivial rate of failure given the number of p2263 threads on the forum. This is my wife's car and can't sit not running for more than a day or two before it gets really difficult. There are re-manufactured ones I've found through a few sites and ebay, but they're still ~$1800. so for a $500 difference, I didn't think it was worth it to get the whole job done and potentially have to do it again sometime soon, but YMMV.
Note that this thing isn't the full kit, so there's all kinds of studs, gaskets, etc that don't come with it that you need to get the job done, unfortunately.
In the end I'm kind of irritated as I bought a Honda Motors car for reliability and reasonable maintenance costs, not realizing there is this time bomb in it in the shape of a Mitsubishi built turbo unit. =(
Originally Posted by istundra
Thanks scritch!
I am also experiencing the P2263 issue too! I did lube one of the diaphragms connected to the actuator and it seem to run longer before CEL.
I am in process of purchasing a replacement turbo and looking for low mileage one for under $500. If not, I may go through your route and spend $2300 for new turbo.
For the new turbo you bought, where did you find it? is it on eBay? can you share the seller?
