P2263 Turbo problems - Page 7 - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

Notices

P2263 Turbo problems

Old 09-08-2018, 05:59 PM
  #241  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 48
Posts: 9
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by <-^-|-^-> View Post



I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.

A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.

Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.

Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.

This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.

Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
the metal shaft freely spins, not sure why thenpart wears so badly/
JasonZ is offline  
Old 09-08-2018, 06:08 PM
  #242  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 48
Posts: 9
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by <-^-|-^-> View Post



I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.

A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.

Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.

Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.

This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.

Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
You could also just loosen the lock nut and unscrew to extend the worn part then relighted the lock nut. Only issue with either of these fixes is that the part will eventually wear right threw and there was not much material left on the bottom of mine.
JasonZ is offline  
Old 09-28-2018, 08:45 PM
  #243  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Replaced the turbo w/ a used to fix this at 130k. Now it’s back at 260k. Going to send an email to the guy in Canada. Still have the old turbo so am going to take that part and send it to get it fixed and then swap it. Thank you to those sharing how to fix it versus replace the turbo. When I swap it what is the correct adjustment on the nut? Did not see that mentioned.
mikerdx is offline  
Old 10-01-2018, 01:56 PM
  #244  
QFT
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 13
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
110k on mine, and while on the highway the P2263 "Check Emission System" and a separate SH-AWD error both popped within minutes of each other. I am so thankful that people have identified this VGT actuator issue. Mine does have some slop (as seen in the attached photo). I'm taking it into my dealer today for some formal diagnosis. I'm also taking a bunch of highlighted printed forum posts, which I'm probably going to wave at them like a dude with a crazy conspiracy theory. I can't hear a rattle while driving, my turbo spools up and down seemingly normal, I didn't hear any noises or clunks when the errors popped. I'm just rev limited to 5k right now and sometimes my AWD system stops sending power to the rear wheels (FWD only), so I'm hoping it's just a sensor or this actuator.

Anyway... I'll get some formal diagnosis done, maybe it's a sensor problem too, but I am super happy that we have a friend in Canada who is fabricating the actuators, and even better.... I can probably replace it in an hour without removing the turbo. I'll see how it goes at the dealership today...

QFT is offline  
Old 10-02-2018, 11:44 AM
  #245  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Please keep me updated on that fix for the acuator without having to remove the turbo once those parts become available.
CSmoney28 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to CSmoney28 For This Useful Post:
mass978 (10-10-2018)
Old 10-04-2018, 12:56 AM
  #246  
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Age: 97
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey, by chance do you still have the old Acura RDX Turbo and would like to sell it? Please text a response to 678/358-5164. Thanks
adhrain is offline  
Old 10-10-2018, 12:57 PM
  #247  
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 28
Posts: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'll be keeping this thread in mind. I recently bought a 2012 with 76k so I am reading up on anything and everything I can. I plan on some upgrades in the next year or so but want to make sure everything is good baseline before investing into mods.
mass978 is offline  
Old 10-10-2018, 09:50 PM
  #248  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
I donít have a used turbo for sale right now.

What modification are you plan on doing?
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 10-11-2018, 03:52 PM
  #249  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 54
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JasonZ View Post


the metal shaft freely spins, not sure why thenpart wears so badly/
Wire rope stopped working about three days after the test drive. I'm guessing the heat expanded the wire rope too much for it to hold tightly. The lights would go off after about 15 minutes of driving.

Part wear is due to bad design. I've pulled the part out and it's obvious where the problem lies. The waste gate plunger is fixed, not flexible, and the valve lever itself travels in an arc. In that scenario, any foreign matter built up on the areas where it connects acts as an abrasive where there is high pressure contact.

I have another question. A poster mentioned the dimensions of a part being rebuilt as an M7x1 with a .585" opening. What year vehicle did that come off?

The measurements from the part I pulled off a 2008 is an M6x1 with a 15.25mm opening. Perhaps Honda's short term fix was just a larger part on the newer year models?
<-^-|-^-> is offline  
Old 10-11-2018, 03:56 PM
  #250  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 54
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Worn part off 2008 RDX


wear pattern
<-^-|-^-> is offline  
Old 10-11-2018, 05:54 PM
  #251  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Thanks, for the work part photo. Itís a great 👍🏻 addition to the community. Did they change this part over from year to year to fix this issue?
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:11 PM
  #252  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 54
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That's what I'm curious about since the dimensions on mine are different than those in an earlier post.
<-^-|-^-> is offline  
Old 10-12-2018, 09:11 AM
  #253  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 543
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by <-^-|-^-> View Post
That's what I'm curious about since the dimensions on mine are different than those in an earlier post.
I guess whomever needs this part will just need to send it to Darren G in Canada or that fabricator in the US to have the proper one made. How aggravating.
SinCity is offline  
Old 10-12-2018, 10:59 AM
  #254  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Thatís off of a 2008, I wonder if mine is the same I have a 2009. Who is the us guy making this part?
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 10-13-2018, 07:49 AM
  #255  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 543
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by CSmoney28 View Post
Thatís off of a 2008, I wonder if mine is the same I have a 2009. Who is the us guy making this part?
The US guy is in post #218. I think he charges more than the the Canadian (Darren).
SinCity is offline  
Old 10-13-2018, 10:01 AM
  #256  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Thanks, so do we know if the part he made actually works?
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 10-14-2018, 06:47 PM
  #257  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 48
Posts: 9
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by CSmoney28 View Post
Thanks, so do we know if the part he made actually works?
have had it installed since the original post I made with the original rebuilt part by Darren and have not received any codes since. It is working flawlessly.
JasonZ is offline  
Old 10-15-2018, 02:52 AM
  #258  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Thatís great to hear, Iím glad we have a potential fix.
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 10-15-2018, 06:51 PM
  #259  
QFT
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 13
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
I ordered the replacement VGT actuator part from him as well. The dealer confirmed what I thought. It's worn, it throws the codes, the part isn't sold separately, and the official Acura policy is to replace the whole turbo ($7700, my independent trusted non-Acura shop quoted me $6600)

Darren sells the new part for $300 US shipped, or you can ship him yours and he'll refurbish it for the same price.

My RDX stopped throwing the codes for now, but I'm sure that's only because I'm keeping the RPMs under 4k until I can put the replacement part in.
QFT is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to QFT For This Useful Post:
mass978 (10-29-2018)
Old 10-15-2018, 06:56 PM
  #260  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Age: 48
Posts: 9
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by QFT View Post
I ordered the replacement VGT actuator part from him as well. The dealer confirmed what I thought. It's worn, it throws the codes, the part isn't sold separately, and the official Acura policy is to replace the whole turbo ($7700, my independent trusted non-Acura shop quoted me $6600)

Darren sells the new part for $300 US shipped, or you can ship him yours and he'll refurbish it for the same price.

My RDX stopped throwing the codes for now, but I'm sure that's only because I'm keeping the RPMs under 4k until I can put the replacement part in.
The part can be taken off and the replacement put on with a little patience. I suggest tying string or small rope to the threaded part during removal and install, that little sucker can get away from you easily and difficult to find. What I did for install is use the string/rope to assist with lining up the threaded part to screw it in. Shouldnít take more than an hour.
JasonZ is offline  
Old 10-16-2018, 06:58 AM
  #261  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 543
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JasonZ View Post


The part can be taken off and the replacement put on with a little patience. I suggest tying string or small rope to the threaded part during removal and install, that little sucker can get away from you easily and difficult to find. What I did for install is use the string/rope to assist with lining up the threaded part to screw it in. Shouldnít take more than an hour.
I haven't really looked under there. What parts need to be taken off to access it other than the intercooler?
SinCity is offline  
Old 10-16-2018, 07:26 PM
  #262  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
I hope who ever gets to do this first is able to share a write up with us, maybe photos included. Iím sure, all of us will be very great full!
CSmoney28 is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to CSmoney28 For This Useful Post:
mass978 (10-19-2018), SinCity (10-20-2018)
Old 10-19-2018, 05:22 PM
  #263  
QFT
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 13
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
It's been done, so I know it works. I'll take some pictures when I do it. No promises on quality of write-up.

I'm still waiting on the part to come in.

Side note: Midwest Turbo in Illinois can likely refurbish this for you too, if you send in the part. Contact Jason (Turbocharger product manager) at 815-512-7402 for info.
They called me back while I was waiting on the part.
QFT is offline  
Old 10-21-2018, 02:22 AM
  #264  
Registered Member
 
Lanesky_OH8RDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Age: 30
Posts: 188
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
I posted in this thread a few years ago when I had my 2008 rdx post #58 lol. While I never had this issue come up before I traded it in I have recently had a real want to buy another one so I've come to see what's been happening with this issue. I see it's still alive and kicking and I'm pleased to see the some successes in getting this fixed. Since I would like to get another 1st gen RDX I'm wondering if anyone has considered using a heim joint setup instead of returning to the same rod in softer metal hole scenario? Or would the spherical bearing in a heim joint not hold up to the heat? I'm mechanically savvy as part of my career so I dont mind putting in the work to help find a solid solution to maybe have one of these K23's hit 500k kms. Haha. I've attached an image of a heim joint for those who don't know what I'm going on about.

Thanks

Lane
Lanesky_OH8RDX is offline  
Old 10-28-2018, 08:13 PM
  #265  
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Age: 43
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Lanesky_OH8RDX View Post
I posted in this thread a few years ago when I had my 2008 rdx post #58 lol. While I never had this issue come up before I traded it in I have recently had a real want to buy another one so I've come to see what's been happening with this issue. I see it's still alive and kicking and I'm pleased to see the some successes in getting this fixed. Since I would like to get another 1st gen RDX I'm wondering if anyone has considered using a heim joint setup instead of returning to the same rod in softer metal hole scenario? Or would the spherical bearing in a heim joint not hold up to the heat? I'm mechanically savvy as part of my career so I dont mind putting in the work to help find a solid solution to maybe have one of these K23's hit 500k kms. Haha. I've attached an image of a heim joint for those who don't know what I'm going on about.

Thanks

Lane
The problem with this fix is the hardened material used in the helm joint would wear the .585" shaft it mounts on which is even harder to access and fix. If both were designed to work together this would be the way to go. I have seen Turbo diesels designed this way probably last a very long time but have a properly designed mounting shaft.

Darren Gauryletz
Spindrift is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Spindrift For This Useful Post:
mass978 (10-29-2018)
Old 10-29-2018, 12:03 PM
  #266  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Thanks for all the great information.
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 11-30-2018, 09:06 PM
  #267  
QFT
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 13
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Here's the installation video.

I have yet to put the car through its paces and see if the error returns, but according to others this is the fix if your VGT actuator is worn. In a few days I'll put my car through the paces on the highway for an hour to see if the error comes back. I can tell you that the old piece was VERY worn (another year and it may have worn completely off of the linkage), and I was able to install this without removing anything except the intercooler shroud off (4 bolts)

Here's a basic summary:
1. Run wire through old actuator so you don't lose it once it's loose
2. Both the locking bolt and the collar/barrel on the actuator's threaded rod are 10mm. The bottom one functions as a locking nut, the top one is a "barrel" which stays with the valve. Hold the top barrel with one 10MM wrench, loosen the bottom "lock" nut COUNTERCLOCKWISE from your perspective. Now the barrel can be turned.
3. Using a 10mm wrench, twist the upper/barrel CLOCKWISE from your persepective until it's off the VGT actuator's threaded rod. Stop twisting IMMEDIATELY after it's off; this barrel backs up into another threaded rod, and if you get the old one off and the new one on without twisting the barrel excessively while disconnected, the gap/distance *should* remain about the same after you're done with this job.
4. There's a C-clip holding the VGT actuator onto the linkage. Spin the clip around (I had to use a screwdriver) until you can see the part of the clip that has a slot. Run wire through the slot, wrap tightly so you don't lose it, and use a screwdriver on that slot to pop it off the linkage. Save the C-clip, then wiggle the VGT actuator off.
5. Reassemble in reverse order. Make sure your stuff has wire attached so you can fish it out if you drop it (you will). First up, put the old nut all the way onto the new VGT actuator, wrap wire around the threads between the nut and the actuator. Put the it back onto the linkage (stick the hole onto the rod). Then put the C-clip in place. It's kind of a bitch to get back on. My buddy managed to get it set in place, then pop it completely on using a screwdriver.
6. Reconnect the VGT actuator's threaded rod to the 10MM barrel. Remember, don't twist the barrel too much without being connected. Grab the VGT actuator's threaded rod with vice grips, pull it up against the barrel and hold it there. Back the barrel off a couple turns clockwise to help seat it, then turn counterclockwise to thread it down. If it doesn't thread in within a few turns, back the barrel off to your starting position (so your total length will be right) and try again.
7. Your locking nut should be near the bottom of your VGT's threaded rod. Get the barrel down nice and far over the threaded rod, then snug up the locking nut. Remove all of the wires you've got hanging off of your stuff and you're done.
QFT is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to QFT For This Useful Post:
SinCity (12-03-2018), Tomtwtwtw (12-03-2018)
Old 12-02-2018, 07:26 PM
  #268  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 543
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you for the video and concise write up.
SinCity is offline  
Old 12-02-2018, 10:40 PM
  #269  
Carmine S.
 
CSmoney28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 425
Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts
Thank you, all of your hard work with this write up.
CSmoney28 is offline  
Old 12-06-2018, 10:47 AM
  #270  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Age: 18
Posts: 30
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How is this ďaftermarketĒ turbo?

How is the stock RDX turbo compared to the OEM https://m.buyautoparts.com/1/1/11464...900rwca01.html?

is there one that is ďfasterĒ?
Stephenjp13 is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:34 AM
  #271  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Age: 40
Posts: 11
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
toanhung is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 10:05 AM
  #272  
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 543
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by toanhung View Post
Great price. Do you need to remove the turbo to swap out the actuator?

Last edited by SinCity; 12-07-2018 at 10:15 AM.
SinCity is offline  
Old 12-07-2018, 02:19 PM
  #273  
QFT
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 13
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by SinCity View Post
Great price. Do you need to remove the turbo to swap out the actuator?
For the whole valve and actuator assembly, probably? Maybe you could get it out if you remove the intercooler (which doesn't look too involved).
QFT is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SidhuSaaB
3G TL Problems & Fixes
12
08-08-2018 05:45 PM
mvidal6
Acura ILX Discussion
12
11-14-2015 08:43 AM
joflewbyu2
Fifth Generation TLX (2015+)
139
10-08-2015 12:16 PM
Matthew Purpura
First Generation CL Discussion (1997-1999)
3
09-25-2015 07:10 PM
4drviper
3G TL Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
0
09-23-2015 10:00 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: P2263 Turbo problems


Contact Us Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.