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P2263 Turbo problems

Old 09-08-2018, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by <-^-|-^-> View Post



I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.

A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.

Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.

Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.

This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.

Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
the metal shaft freely spins, not sure why thenpart wears so badly/
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Old 09-08-2018, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by <-^-|-^-> View Post



I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.

A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.

Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.

Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.

This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.

Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
You could also just loosen the lock nut and unscrew to extend the worn part then relighted the lock nut. Only issue with either of these fixes is that the part will eventually wear right threw and there was not much material left on the bottom of mine.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:45 PM
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Replaced the turbo w/ a used to fix this at 130k. Now it’s back at 260k. Going to send an email to the guy in Canada. Still have the old turbo so am going to take that part and send it to get it fixed and then swap it. Thank you to those sharing how to fix it versus replace the turbo. When I swap it what is the correct adjustment on the nut? Did not see that mentioned.
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Old 10-01-2018, 12:56 PM
  #244  
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110k on mine, and while on the highway the P2263 "Check Emission System" and a separate SH-AWD error both popped within minutes of each other. I am so thankful that people have identified this VGT actuator issue. Mine does have some slop (as seen in the attached photo). I'm taking it into my dealer today for some formal diagnosis. I'm also taking a bunch of highlighted printed forum posts, which I'm probably going to wave at them like a dude with a crazy conspiracy theory. I can't hear a rattle while driving, my turbo spools up and down seemingly normal, I didn't hear any noises or clunks when the errors popped. I'm just rev limited to 5k right now and sometimes my AWD system stops sending power to the rear wheels (FWD only), so I'm hoping it's just a sensor or this actuator.

Anyway... I'll get some formal diagnosis done, maybe it's a sensor problem too, but I am super happy that we have a friend in Canada who is fabricating the actuators, and even better.... I can probably replace it in an hour without removing the turbo. I'll see how it goes at the dealership today...

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Old 10-02-2018, 10:44 AM
  #245  
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Please keep me updated on that fix for the acuator without having to remove the turbo once those parts become available.
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:56 PM
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Hey, by chance do you still have the old Acura RDX Turbo and would like to sell it? Please text a response to 678/358-5164. Thanks
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:57 AM
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I'll be keeping this thread in mind. I recently bought a 2012 with 76k so I am reading up on anything and everything I can. I plan on some upgrades in the next year or so but want to make sure everything is good baseline before investing into mods.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:50 PM
  #248  
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I donít have a used turbo for sale right now.

What modification are you plan on doing?
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ View Post


the metal shaft freely spins, not sure why thenpart wears so badly/
Wire rope stopped working about three days after the test drive. I'm guessing the heat expanded the wire rope too much for it to hold tightly. The lights would go off after about 15 minutes of driving.

Part wear is due to bad design. I've pulled the part out and it's obvious where the problem lies. The waste gate plunger is fixed, not flexible, and the valve lever itself travels in an arc. In that scenario, any foreign matter built up on the areas where it connects acts as an abrasive where there is high pressure contact.

I have another question. A poster mentioned the dimensions of a part being rebuilt as an M7x1 with a .585" opening. What year vehicle did that come off?

The measurements from the part I pulled off a 2008 is an M6x1 with a 15.25mm opening. Perhaps Honda's short term fix was just a larger part on the newer year models?
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:56 PM
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Worn part off 2008 RDX


wear pattern
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:54 PM
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Thanks, for the work part photo. Itís a great 👍🏻 addition to the community. Did they change this part over from year to year to fix this issue?
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:11 PM
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That's what I'm curious about since the dimensions on mine are different than those in an earlier post.
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by <-^-|-^-> View Post
That's what I'm curious about since the dimensions on mine are different than those in an earlier post.
I guess whomever needs this part will just need to send it to Darren G in Canada or that fabricator in the US to have the proper one made. How aggravating.
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:59 AM
  #254  
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Thatís off of a 2008, I wonder if mine is the same I have a 2009. Who is the us guy making this part?
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Old 10-13-2018, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CSmoney28 View Post
Thatís off of a 2008, I wonder if mine is the same I have a 2009. Who is the us guy making this part?
The US guy is in post #218. I think he charges more than the the Canadian (Darren).
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:01 AM
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Thanks, so do we know if the part he made actually works?
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Old 10-14-2018, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CSmoney28 View Post
Thanks, so do we know if the part he made actually works?
have had it installed since the original post I made with the original rebuilt part by Darren and have not received any codes since. It is working flawlessly.
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Old 10-15-2018, 01:52 AM
  #258  
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Thatís great to hear, Iím glad we have a potential fix.
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Old 10-15-2018, 05:51 PM
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I ordered the replacement VGT actuator part from him as well. The dealer confirmed what I thought. It's worn, it throws the codes, the part isn't sold separately, and the official Acura policy is to replace the whole turbo ($7700, my independent trusted non-Acura shop quoted me $6600)

Darren sells the new part for $300 US shipped, or you can ship him yours and he'll refurbish it for the same price.

My RDX stopped throwing the codes for now, but I'm sure that's only because I'm keeping the RPMs under 4k until I can put the replacement part in.
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Old 10-15-2018, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by QFT View Post
I ordered the replacement VGT actuator part from him as well. The dealer confirmed what I thought. It's worn, it throws the codes, the part isn't sold separately, and the official Acura policy is to replace the whole turbo ($7700, my independent trusted non-Acura shop quoted me $6600)

Darren sells the new part for $300 US shipped, or you can ship him yours and he'll refurbish it for the same price.

My RDX stopped throwing the codes for now, but I'm sure that's only because I'm keeping the RPMs under 4k until I can put the replacement part in.
The part can be taken off and the replacement put on with a little patience. I suggest tying string or small rope to the threaded part during removal and install, that little sucker can get away from you easily and difficult to find. What I did for install is use the string/rope to assist with lining up the threaded part to screw it in. Shouldnít take more than an hour.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ View Post


The part can be taken off and the replacement put on with a little patience. I suggest tying string or small rope to the threaded part during removal and install, that little sucker can get away from you easily and difficult to find. What I did for install is use the string/rope to assist with lining up the threaded part to screw it in. Shouldnít take more than an hour.
I haven't really looked under there. What parts need to be taken off to access it other than the intercooler?
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:26 PM
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I hope who ever gets to do this first is able to share a write up with us, maybe photos included. Iím sure, all of us will be very great full!
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