When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you to everyone for their contributions. I am expericing same issues. I recently replaced 2 coil packs given codes i retreived from the ecu. I have inspected the square piece on the actuator an i dont have a significant gap. I have taken a flap screw driver to test the actuator. it takes abit of force to move the arm. I am at a crossroads, i have located a used turbo for 200 cdn. Been qouted 1350 to rebuild it. an to rebuild the existing turbo including installation 1750 plus taxes.
I am debating on buying an aftermarket actuator, however i fear that i might also need to replace the valve control wastegate which is a pickle to get too. It would be nice to get the turbo upgraded but honestly turbos turn into money pits. Getting to old for that.!!!
Coil packs went bad? I would change them with my spark plugs every 60k for preventative matinence.
Perhaps it might have been all related to the wastegate valve control or the Turbo Flow Control Actuator. I understand 1 has a rubber bladder n the other a spring. I replaced the sparks plugs a couple months ago. I am not getting the misfire codes anymore but then again. I am having to drive the car with extreme care otherwise it goes into limp mode lights up like a christmas tree, Can't fix what isn't broken an coil packs tend to last a very long time so much that here in canada stealerships only stock 1 coil pack at a time. Same with auto parts stores, i bought mine from "parts source" since the other autoparts stores like "car quest" and "hot shot" had crappy brands i bite the bullet n paid 115 each, bought a european brand with a proven track record, while it would have been cheaper at the dealer at 86 each. It didnt make sense to drive to one 1 dealership for 1 coilpack than drive to another dealership for the other coilpack.
Ugh I've got the same problem in my mother's rdx now. The actuator looks fine no play.
Car goes into boost perfectly fine but getting the over boost condition. Check emission, sh awd lights and the car cuts power when this happens.
Weird part is this started happening after sparkplug change but went back and checked all the lines and can't find leaks
It doesn't make much sense, tempted to put back my old spark plugs.but maybe not. I brought my car to a shop that
specializes on turbos. The tech suggested cam sensor an crankshaft sensor. I looked up symptoms related to those two sensors came up empty handed.. i need 2 build a poor mans smoke machine to test for leaks. I have tested both actuators with compress air, lube the outer arm on 1 actuator it appears to respond well to air. The other kinda hard to see. But i can hear it engage, not suggesting to anyone to do this but i fed a little bit of 3-1 oil into the side wastegate actuator n blew in with compress air. i will report back my outcome. i honestly think it may be a leak somewhere. but desperately trying to diagnose the problem. taking breaks in between the sun is way to hot out right now.
Extremely frustrated with this issue, emissions and sh-awd light up, misfire at cylinder 2 and 4 coilpacks are new. I was thinking of replacing the VGT actuator and maybe the solenoids. I haven't really decided where to start. Can anyone refer me to a good acura/honda mechanic in the gta.
Still having issues here, I will attempt trial and error i don't think i will have to replace the pcm module, I will start with the solenoids one at a time.
Still having issues here, I will attempt trial and error i don't think i will have to replace the pcm module, I will start with the solenoids one at a time.
Was the actuator arm worn on the donor? How many miles were on the donor?
It would be kilometers, on this neck of the woods, the battery was dead on the vehicle, so i don't know. Please see the picture for reference. I wish my issue was as simple as replacing the little piece, my original actuator is perfectly fine not worn out.
Base on reading till the cows come home, the codes on this thread n others related to the turbo, are cause by several different scenarios. I thought my issue was the little piece that goes on the actuator. No luck there. So than we get into solenoids, boost sensor, cam sensors, plumbing is one that i never thought about. Pita to take off the turbo let alone attempt to repair tiny air lines. Next weekend i'm gonna ripped my turbo apart n installed the one i picked up. I wanna be proactive n perhaps order aftermarket wastegate n actuator. To replace the oem ones on the used turbo. I understand mods will need be done in order for this work. This will ensure premature failure, i dont think the oem ones are meant to last the long.
I went ahead n replaced both solenoids at the turbo. Unfortunately no luck. Its choking up between 2500-3000 rpms. I checked both actuators n pipes/ plumbing they appear to be ok. I am going to replace the solenoid near the blow off valve. Beyond that i have cam sensors which i picked up al be replacing those too. If im met with negative results. Going straight for the Turbo.
Hi everyone. First time posting on the RDX forum. I have a 2011 with 84,000km. Been throwing a P2263 for a month now. Took it to a Honda specialist. He tighten the wastegate. No luck. He took out the solenoids and checked them. He said they are all good. I agree the problem is probably not related to the actuator linkage as there is no rattling. Also, from what I can see, the actuator linkage has no play. The specialist said he also checked all the hose connections. They are all fine. He said when he was driving the car hard, he hears a whirring noise. He believes that is related the the Turbo failing. However, I don’t hear what he is talking about or don’t know what he is referring to. The car drives fine now. But I admit when I first got it about 5 years ago, the Turbo boast was more instantaneous. He suggest I find a rebuild Turbo and replace it. I ask him are there anything else we should be checking. He said no. And it does seem from my quick reading of this thread, there isn’t any more item I should check. What do everyone think? Are there any more items I should check before biting the bullet?
Hi everyone. First time posting on the RDX forum. I have a 2011 with 84,000km. Been throwing a P2263 for a month now. Took it to a Honda specialist. He tighten the wastegate. No luck. He took out the solenoids and checked them. He said they are all good. I agree the problem is probably not related to the actuator linkage as there is no rattling. Also, from what I can see, the actuator linkage has no play. The specialist said he also checked all the hose connections. They are all fine. He said when he was driving the car hard, he hears a whirring noise. He believes that is related the the Turbo failing. However, I don’t hear what he is talking about or don’t know what he is referring to. The car drives fine now. But I admit when I first got it about 5 years ago, the Turbo boast was more instantaneous. He suggest I find a rebuild Turbo and replace it. I ask him are there anything else we should be checking. He said no. And it does seem from my quick reading of this thread, there isn’t any more item I should check. What do everyone think? Are there any more items I should check before biting the bullet?
Did you check the turbo boost sensor at the intercooler, what about the spark plugs. Do u have any other codes.?
There are no other codes. The specialist told me he checked everything. I can confirm with him early next week if he checked the boost sensor. But I don’t believe he checked the spark plugs. Can that cause a P2263? Another place I called immediately said P2263, you need a new Turbo ...
I have a 2011 with 84,000km. Been throwing a P2263 for a month now. What do everyone think? Are there any more items I should check before biting the bullet?
Your slow-build of boost seems to indicate a possible boost leak...recommend checking everything that gets pressurized for potential leaks. The common failure is the actuator bolt, but you're very low mileage and have already ruled that out. Less common, but still possible, is a leak in in the hose that connects to the top of the actuator, or even internal failure of the actuator itself. You can but the unit for a couple hundred bucks, the it's even harder to replace than the bolt unless you remove the turbo. Still, it's worth looking at before dropping thousands on a full replacement turbo assembly. Good luck
i at 290k and this is the second time I have fixed the 2263 issue. First time was 120k and I replaced with a used Turbo from EBay. This time I bought the flow control actuator part from Darren in Canada, Mine was worn and I used Darren’s part but my actuator was actually broken inside, The rod was flopping around. Luckily I kept the old turbo and that actuator was still good. But if it fails again I know I can get the one from EBay.
Note: If you pull off the valve cover you have enough room and don’t have to take the whole turbo out. A little tricky to get the bolts started on the actuator but you can do it, I actually slotted one of the holes so I could start the bolt 1st and them slide the actuator over it. Made it much easier. You will have no room if you leave the valve cover on. Don’t think I could have done it.
Also, my coil packs are still original at 290k. Do not see any reason to change them as the car runs just fine.
Last edited by mikerdx; 08-24-2019 at 01:24 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Extremely frustrated with this issue, emissions and sh-awd light up, misfire at cylinder 2 and 4 coilpacks are new. I was thinking of replacing the VGT actuator and maybe the solenoids. I haven't really decided where to start. Can anyone refer me to a good acura/honda mechanic in the gta.
If you are getting misfire codes, don't forget to keep your valves adjusted. Needs to be done or can lead to these codes.
Valve adjustment requirement does seem to vary from one Honda motor to another. Most people that have have had their valves inspected on this K23 have found that no adjustment was needed. Even so, it's good to have them inspected around 150-200k if you take your car that far, at least to make sure they're in spec for the long haul (if they're still in spec at that point, they're most likely not going to get worse).
I fixed my issue a couple weeks ago, the spark plug to the left is 2-3 months old, a chunk of metal is clearly missing thus causing the misfiring. This was the root cause of the sh-awd code, engine light among all the problems i had. In the process i picked up the turbo below, solenoids turbo boost sensor cam shaft sensors and other goodies.
i at 290k and this is the second time I have fixed the 2263 issue. First time was 120k and I replaced with a used Turbo from EBay. This time I bought the flow control actuator part from Darren in Canada, Mine was worn and I used Darren’s part but my actuator was actually broken inside, The rod was flopping around. Luckily I kept the old turbo and that actuator was still good. But if it fails again I know I can get the one from EBay.
Note: If you pull off the valve cover you have enough room and don’t have to take the whole turbo out. A little tricky to get the bolts started on the actuator but you can do it, I actually slotted one of the holes so I could start the bolt 1st and them slide the actuator over it. Made it much easier. You will have no room if you leave the valve cover on. Don’t think I could have done it.
Also, my coil packs are still original at 290k. Do not see any reason to change them as the car runs just fine.
Hey do you have any tips on how to find out if the actuator is actually broken? The car pulls strong. Also what is Darrens contact ?
Btw we put air into the actuator and the rod extends all the way.
His info is up the thread. Someone is also selling the piece on EBay for $175. Guessing that may be Darren. My rod was loosely hanging out of the actuator and could easily be moved back and forth. If I had blown air into it it would not have worked.
Main symptom of actuator being broken, assuming you can validate that the bolt is in good shape, is the car will build boost very slowly (if at all) under 3000 rpm. I've driven the car without the bolt connected (didn't tighten the locks nuts enough when I put the new bolt on...oops), and there is just not enough airflow to build low-rpm boost. As a result, you might find the transmission holding gears longer to make the power you're asking for by way of throttle input. On top of all that, you should still be getting that P2263 code.
Back from my summer vacation. Here is an update on my P2263 problem.
First, A big Thanks to 1rdxbandit for all the help. He is in my area. He test drove my car and I test drove his. We agree both our cars pulls fine. Then 1rdxbandit swapped my Turbo intake sensor with another he has. Thought the code went away. But it came back after 90km of driving.
Then I decided to email my dealer. Here is the response I received from the service advisor:
From my experience the issue is the waste gate linkages seizing up causing the turbo not to work properly. Sometimes we may be able to remove the turbo and free-up turbo linkages - cost is $2650 + taxes.
I decided to call him the next day and he said the above is his experience with other RDXs. Then he gave me another option:
Just drive the car with the code. Some of our client do this. The car just won't pull as strongly as it should at high speed.
I tend to think what the dealer said is accurate. What does everything think? In fact I am thinking my car has too low milage (84,000km). That might be the reason the actuator seized up!
The thing is I am sure it is cheaper to find someone else to unseize the actuator. But finding that someone is difficult. DIY would be too much for me.
Also very strange since I came back from vacation. The Check Emission light actually went away after about 40km of driving. The code scanner is still reading P2263. I am sure the light will come back on. If it doesn't, I am laughing. The most important thing I need is SH-AWD especially for winter coming up. When the light comes on the SH-AWD system is disabled a short time later (as you all know). If the light doesn't come on (but the code remain stored), the SH-AWD system does not get disabled. I am fine with this. Just drive as dealer said ....
Your dealer is not helping you. If you read the thread above it will tell you how to fix it. But if you want to drive it go for it. The dealer had better things to do then fix a turbo. They will just want to sell you a new one. Best of luck.
Last edited by mikerdx; 09-10-2019 at 01:31 PM.
Reason: Spelling
The code tends to go away on its own if you do several drive cycles of very easy driving. Higher throttle where the turbo should be spooling up, but doesn't due to actuator/bolt issues, create the situation that triggers the P2263 code. That said, if you think the actuator is seized, you can try pushing on the lever (where the bolt connects with the actuator) to see if it moves. A long wrench should reach it. With a firm push it should move down, but obviously don't lean too hard into it if it won't move. Don't want to break anything on the inside if it isn't already broken.
Hey guys. New to the forum and found this while researching on YouTube. Well I ordered the actuator assembly and had just the bolt with hole replaced as the previous bolt was worn all the way through. Driving back from the shop and the "Check emission" code and "VSA" code came on again. I'm going to check if the bolt is tightened to the proper spec/spacing first. If not that I plan to test the actuator itself as my mechanic didn't replace the whole thing due to ease/time required.I guess next would be to search for air leaks? Check the actual wastegate actuator? How is this completed? We've had the car since new in 2011 and it has about 148K miles. Thank you in advance for all of the amazing information here.
Darren's solution of the play in Variable Flow Turbo actuator may nit fix even after you spent $300 on it.. It might be best to replace the turbo.. as you will have to spend money on that too..
I got that piece from Daren for $300, no use.. ( but if you know this is your issue .. let me know I can send that Daren piece to you for less than what he originally sold to me.. send me a message... )
I got the whole VFT actuator along with the piece for about the same $300 again, no use
I changed one of the solenoids that controls boost control, no use
I exchanged the solenoids between Boost control and Waste gate control, no use
I cleaned the MAP sensor and MAF sensors, no use
Very glad to know you have made awesome progress... congrats... I went after this car to fix it for a while and will be getting back into it to fix it gain now.. If I can ask, where and how did you find the donor car?
Thanks
07-08-2019, 11:44 PM
