Is that the one with long rod? Or the one on top which wears down the bolt?

 

The one with the long rod located on the back side of the engine. It's the wastegate actuator.

 

I have the same issue. Following this thread replaced the eye bolt although old one looked good, removed the top actuator to see if anything was wrong and it looked fine. I can't see any rips in hoses etc. Weird thing is code always appears in warm weather, now that its getting around 10 deg. C the awd light doesn't come on. So I am assuming I have same issue as yours and gonna have to try your trick, will report back after. Weird thing is car builds up boost fine, not strong but good enough.

 

Our problem went away during the winter. Like yours, once the temps hit around 10C it started up again with 2263 error.

 

I had to revisit this wonderful thread again. Great information, everyone!

About 3 years ago, on Christmas Eve, I received the dreaded P2263 code on my wife's 2007 Acura RDX. After one day, the check engine light went away and has not come back since. However, my wife just called me today and said she's hearing some sort of rattling in the engine bay and a check engine light came on. I'm preparing myself for when she gets home, but I'm presuming it's the lovely waste gate actuator bolt issue again.

It's great to see that the price for these little pieces went down. I unfortunately bought mine when it was over $150 . Oh well, we live in a capitalistic economy and there was only once source at that time.

 

I suggest lubing it with well graphite. It's open to atmosphere so grease will attract dirt and cause quicker wear.

 

I have a friend that has a 2010 RDX and is getting these error codes. She can't afford replacing the turbo nor has the car exhibited any acceleration problems, including the boost gauge. Thinking that it was the coupling wear problem, we decided to go that route sight unseen. Unfortunately, her existing part looked perfect. Considering I had it apart, I stuck the new one on, but in hindsight we should have probably just returned it for a refund. I probably was a little distracted as I dropped my 10mm socket and it fell into the abyss. On a good note, I eventually found it after a 2.5 hour search and it was in the seam of the exhaust heat shield.

Anyway, the lights are still coming on intermittently. My thought is to shorten the linkage and pressure activate it to verify free movement. Anything else to test and/or try? Beyond basic tools and an air compressor, I do not have any fancy diagnostic tools.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

Ok, took a better look this time and see that the arm is not returning to the upright position. Extremely loose. Push it up and it falls back down. So the question is: is the return spring in the diaphragm or is it the coil spring on the elbow of the arm that functions to push up the arm? The elbow spring looks ok, but maybe it's lost its spring? I'm actually not sure if it is a coil spring or just a spring to push the elbow out.

But before I have my friend pay for a new diaphragm, I just want to make sure I should not be focusing on the spring on the elbow of the arm.

 

Ok, I've found the answer to my last question. Now, I just have purchasing questions. Is the wastegate actuator available from Acura? If not where should I buy? I've seen too good to be true prices on Ebay, so I'm hesitant to buy unless it has enough good reviews. Also, Ebay sometimes has a second actuator included. Is that actuator with the long rod possible to install without the removal of the turbo? And if so, is it suggested to replace that one at the same time?

 

I got mine from Aliexpress, but yeah replaced both.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256...231461240%21sh

 

Thanks for the information and I have my order in. About how long did it take to replace both actuators so I can set aside enough time?

 

I did mine while on the bench before sending it to Blouch. Changing them only took 5 minuets, on the bench.

 

That would be a lot easier than while still on the engine. Lets hope I have some reasonable access to the lower one while the turbine is still mounted. I'll warn my friend that there may be some swear words.

 

LOL. Good luck!

 

Thought I'd give an update to my friend's turbo problem. I was able to replace the flood gate actuator, but there was no way I was going to replace the one under the turbo w/o removing the turbo, which I really didn't want to do. I did test the lower actuator with air and didn't hear a leak and could hear the unit move and retract so that was good enough for now. The upper was still a challenge because the two lower screws did not provide much room. It was hard enough to get them out, but it jumps to another level getting them back in. Struggled for quite a bit just getting the first thread of the screw to engage. Yes, there was some swearing there, but was I calmed down by the consumption of rum punch. It may have been slightly easier if I had removed the air intake tube bolted to the top of the turbo, but I didn't have a gasket and didn't want to mess with it on a Saturday night with everything closed.

So I had two problems with the old actuator. First it had a leak and air rushed through; second, the pressed on washer had disconnected from the post as demonstrated earlier in this thread. So in this case the flood gate was always open. I also added some reasonably high temperature grease to the coupler linkage as the wearing appears to occur on both parts of the linkage (male/female) as seen in a video when researching this problem.

It's been almost a month and her dash lights have not gone on. Knock on wood!

 

I am curious, if you were driving it like that for 5 years without fixing it, you must have been passing your emission tests? My light goes off for long periods, so I'm wondering if when it's off if it can pass an emissions test, do you know?

 

Just finished reading through the whole forum, lots of insightful information, thanks everyone!

I have a 2009 RDX with 178k miles purchased 8 months and about 8k miles ago. The mechanic I bought the car from did a lot of work on the car before selling it to me, including replacing both Wastegate Actuators. It was even his personal commuter for a while before he sold it.

The P2263 code first came on a 2 months ago. When the code first came on the average mpg quickly dropped from ~22 on to 11 in the 100+ miles I drove it after the codes popped on.

Last week, I was finally able to take it to the mechanic I bought it from after the car sat for a month or so. He quickly did the simple adjustment of the actuator eye bolt that so many have talked about in this thread. The car immediately felt better than before, lots of pep from the turbo, and even better gas millage than when I bought the car, now all the way up to 28 mpgs. The day after the adjustment, I put the car through the paces on a 3+ hr roadtrip to DC. However, on my way home over the weekend, the P2263 and SH-AWD codes came back. Even with the codes on, the boost still feels quite good, and the average mpg is still hovering around 27.

I took it back to my mechanic and after reading the codes again, and without inspecting the actuator, he said the whole turbo needs to be replaced because the pin the actuator eye bolt mounts to is worn out of round. This is something I haven't seen anyone talk about in the thread so far (though I may have missed it if it has been!), especially for those who have been having persistent P2263 codes. If the pin is out of round, even after replacing the actuator eye bolt or the whole wastegate actuator, there would still be play in the connection, right? I can hear the rattling when off the throttle, and thought the solution in post #155 using the metal wire is a decent one. Did this end up working?

I even called Blouch Turbo today to see if they had any advice. The guy I spoke with confirmed the commonality of this problem, and said he fabricated and replaced the rounded pin once that it wasn't worth the time. He said that if the pin is in fact rounded, replacing the turbo may be the only option to remove the slack from the actuator.

I found a few videos on YouTube that explain the problem well. I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions as I continue to research the problem. I won't be changing the whole turbo until I have a 100% confirmation that this is in fact the reason for my persistent P2263.

Here are a few screen shots from that show the worn pin compared to a newer one.

Any advice? Anyone had a similar problem? Do folks think replacing the whole turbo is the only solution? Thanks!

 

Wow—if a turbo specialist who’s done it all before says it’s not worth the trouble to fabricate/fix, that doesn’t sound good.
Had any $$$ quotes for replacing the turbo?
Sounds like for the amount of miles on the engine that other turbo parts are well-worn also. Could be worth the expense.
I inherited an ‘07 with 61k miles. Really like the car and it’s quirky characteristics. Nice to have a car that can keep up with the aggressive drivers in my area!
Reading I’ve done on our K23A1 engines say you can’t swap in other types of Honda engines due to the K23A1’s unique properties. That would be another plus for replacing the turbo (instead of a complete engine swap.)

Please post the eventual outcome of your turbo dilemma!

 

In all the threads I've read, I've yet to hear someone confirm that switching out the entire turbo gets rid of the dreaded P2263 code? I've also not found anything confirming if a non-Honda turbo can be used successfully...did Blouch confirm either? I'm worried it could just be a boost leak somewhere along the line that hasn't been checked and fixed, although I've not read anything to confirm that either.

 

I bought a turbo from Amazon to use while getting the original upgraded by Blouch (he had no confidence in the Amazon turbo castings). It worked well and I kept it as a just-in-case backup.

 

I am at a loss. I swapped out my turbo for an autozone turbo. It lasted about 2k miles then the code came back. A few weeks later I started getting other codes & limp mode. It was found that the tube between the throttle body & intercooler was worn with holes/leaks. That stopped the other codes. But not p2263. It happens at weird times or situations. I can drive 500 miles towing a boat & no code. I drive to the corner store & get the code twice. Btw, 152k miles on vehicle. There has to be a vacuum leak somewhere causing this. The dealer changed the intercooler tube for $300. And they are 60 miles away, so figure $80 for gas.

 

Interesting, how many miles did you put on the Amazon turbo? The guy below your response says his Autozone turbo only lasted 2k miles before the P2263 code came back. How many miles have you put on the Blouch turbo, with no codes? How much was it to upgrade, and which parts got upgraded?

 

This is exactly what I'm afraid of, dealer is quick to call it the turbo after reading the code, without bothering to do a thorough check for boost leaks in the system. Maybe you can get a closer mechanic to do that? Mine runs fine, but won't pass an emissions tests with the stored P2263 code, even when it's not on.

 

Does the p2263 suggest an overboost, underboost, or just general performance issue? I do not recall what codes i saw when test driving a turbo that could not spool up, and another car that had over boost issues.

Can you clear the p2263 or report the freeze frame data ie the speeds, rpm, flowrates etc?

did you have the mating surfaces for the piping cleaned and all clamps properly tightened down prior to re-install.

Was the car warmed up when you got the code?

Lasting only 2k sounds like something got loose or slowly adjusted into place as oppossed to failure. Is there smoke out of the exhaust?

 

I only put about 2k miles on the Amazon turbo, it was only to be able to use the car while the factory one was being rebuilt. The upgrade/rebuild was $847.00 and they open the compressor side housing to install a 20T wheel (up from a 13T) the shaft and bearings are replaced and they change the turbine wheel from the 12 vane to a 9 vane for more flow. I currently have 4k miles on the BPT turbo. The very first time I got on the freeway it gave me the overboost code, but Flashpro has an override that I turned on. I wouldn't do the turbo upgrade without doing the supporting mods (TL throttle body, 750cc injectors, 265 LPH fuel pump, and Hondata Flashpro) because the fuel system won't handle the extra flow/pressure of the turbo upgrade, the extra 5 psi really wakes it up. After the upgrades it puts most of the old school muscle cars to shame.The BPT upgrade is not for the faint of heart.

 

[QUOTE=yanga001;16904582]Does the p2263 suggest an overboost, underboost, or just general performance issue? I do not recall what codes i saw when test driving a turbo that could not spool up, and another car that had over boost issues.

Can you clear the p2263 or report the freeze frame data ie the speeds, rpm, flowrates etc? yes can clear with either hondata flashpro or removing battery cable. I have not caught the problem while datalogging with flashpro

did you have the mating surfaces for the piping cleaned and all clamps properly tightened down prior to re-install. i assume the mechanic did this. Hard for me to say or guarantee.

Was the car warmed up when you got the code? yes, about 10 minutes of driving mostly highway.

Lasting only 2k sounds like something got loose or slowly adjusted into place as oppossed to failure. Is there smoke out of the exhaust? i noticed the tailpipes do have an extra bit of black stuff built up on them. I have also noticed i am only getting 19mpg, where sometimes I get 21mpg when mostly highway. The turbo seems to be working good, spools up to full boost (according to the gauge) most of the time.

 

[QUOTE=FlopMeister;16905334]The DTC if it is a permanent fault should store a freeze frame in the ECU. I am not familiar with flash pro but most OBD2 scanners should have a way to review the stored data. Most it will give is rpm's, speed, maybe fuel trims, battery voltage etc. It may also give the gear you are in as well.

Does the code force you into limp home mode ie disabled SHAWD and no boost.

If you can log the boost levels through a normal pull and driving then we could check the peak boost level and maybe see how it performs through normal acceleration.

 

[QUOTE=yanga001;16905509]it disables SHAWD but doesn’t go into limp mode (it has rpms above 3k). It doesn’t reduce boost ether, at least according to the gauge. It doesn’t run different with or without the light.
Ok, so flashpro allows me to datalog without my computer. I will reset the code then start driving & record until it comes on. I will also do a pull without the light on (or i can share logs from prior times?

 

I did two pulls today and sent them to e-tunez for review. Here is what he said:
”When comparing these logs to the ones you sent in January, I can see your MAF flow is down about 20% for the same RPM and Boost levels. It could just be IAT related (50F vs 98F) but, it IS alot of reduction. The AFR is learner as result. I might suspect more leaks that you have not found yet, or possibly (unrelated) a slight reduction in fuel pressure contributing to a leaner AFR (pump getting older etc).
It’s not bad.... 12.3 AFR is actaully great for power, and not "too" lean for these engines, but it does show something is up with air fuel regulation mechanically, as we used to run 11.5-12.0 or so.”

I just replaced the MAF sensor back in early August with an autozone brand one.
any thoughts?

 

How particular are Acuras on MAF sensors. With Volvo's we cant use anything other than bosch or OEM because it will trip codes and cause the car to run like crap. Why did you replace the previous sensor?

 

trying to stop the P2263 code. Cheapest and easiest starting point.

 

If you run Hondata FlashPro under Calibration/Misc there is a box to turn it off.

 

Maybe try to put the original one back in if you still have it and try Dalli's route. If everything else is still running properly and you are not overly lean or rich then it may be a case that the vehicles parameters have slightly changed and are tripping up oem setups.

If your long term and short term trims are within spec, and you still have decent power then i would try to bypass the code. The engine is unlikely to be doing damage to itself and you have arguably good and functional parts within the car.

 

UPDATE!
I got the CIL while data logging today. IT IS NOT P2263. It is P0325, knock sensor malfunction. (This is assuming other times it was P2263). Looks like i got 1 knock on sensor 2 and 2 knocks on sensor 3. I have not had time to switch back to the old OEM MAF sensor.

 

Id say change the sensor before trying any other diagnostics. Might fix all the issues. Was it the same emissions lights?

 

yes same lights. Code p0325 and code 77 that shuts off shawd, which was confusing me about the other code

 

Oem sensor is $117

 

Update 2
the CIL cleared itself. It was there this morning on my way to work. Then when I got in my car to goto lunch it was gone. Normal?

 

Yea its probably a temp fault due to intermittent failure of the sensor. Honda's do that weirdly.

It may be the sensor is slowly going bad or you have a bad connection.

Not knowing where the knock sensor is, i would suggest that you disconnect it and try to clean the contacts with a contact cleaner.

I think a junkyard sensor should be good. They dont seem to fail that often and would be cheap as chips there.

I would grab a junkyard one and try changing the sensor. I think i have a manual so send me a pm if you need it.

 

my tuner reported back he could see intermittent failure before the CIL then failure at the CIL. He recommends changing it.
I’m good. There are a few videos out there on changing it.
i am just confused. If u google the part number, it shows listings for the part for $17. Yet, the oem Acura parts places want $117. I will look into the junkyard option as well