C_Shot

That's good the hear. Getting a more formal diagnosis since I can't see a lot of play.

Do these say 'made in Canuckastan' because that would be great..

Lanesky_OH8RDX

Would it wear though? The rod end bearing would provide the pivot point and assuming you could find the right size to be a tight fit I'm unsure how it could. From my experience with turbine engines where these are utilized quite a bit I have only ever seen the bearing part of the rod end got minor slop so we replaced it since it involved the power controls and slop made pilots whiny. With that said I have not personally seen how the actuator is set up. So I suppose i'm talking out of my arse.

Thanks very much for the reply!

Spindrift

I would imagine much stricter regulatory rules apply to critical controls on Turbine engines then a regular vehicle engine. So the design of the shaft may not be as robust. The bearing/bushing being used could be failing mixed with road grit ect. Causing it to not turn as smooth I am guessing from my experience as a Industrial Mechanic, Watercraft /small engine mech and fabricator/machinist. I am sure in your industry things are kept very clean compared to a vehicles engine compartment. That's why I would be nervous to just used a hardened material on the shaft. If I had the shaft I could test it on my Starrett hardness tester so I could come up with a safe hardness for the helm joint. Again I am guessing as well and erring on the safe side. The replacement part I fabricate comes with a lifetime warranty if it wears out it will be replaced at no cost.

pandaman

Hi Everyone, i have an extra Genuine - Actuator Rod, which is in Good shape.
If you are Interested to buy it, please let me know.
Email me at turbopanda14@yahoo.com

VinoRed

I got the VGT Actuator part from Darren ( Canada person.. Thanks Darren)

I changed the VGT actuator ( which was ovaled out on old original part in Acura RDX 2008)

I'm not sure if I had threaded the vertical shaft to the correct settings but after driving about 20 miles, got the CEL and SHAWD light on again

Do any one have any other suggestions (other than re-adujsting the vertical shaft length that screws into VGT actuator and wastegate)

Here a few pictures what I changed

Tip: Please use a screw driver like I did when putting teh c-clip back again.. so that the horizontal bar does not go too far down, and u can put the c-clip well

VinoRed

Thanks

VinoRed

Spindrift

Sorry have been sick with a bad flu for a week just saw this. Give me a call on Saturday around 1pm your time and I will try and help you out.

Darren

CSmoney28

Lanesky_OH8RDX

Fairly clean yeah. Crap always finds a way in. De-ice fluid, dust, ash and the occasional bird. Good points. Once I get another 1st gen, your part will be first on the list. Thankfully being a fellow Canadian no border fees to ship. Haha. Thanks!

C_Shot

Update: My mechanic and I are in agreement that there isn't any play on the actuator rod and that isn't the issue on my RDX turbo. That said, sometimes the devil you know is better... I have some new coolant lines and a new solenoid but I'm no closer to having my p2263 problems solved.

Worst thing is I'm now getting little to no boost now. I would pick it up after a round of troubleshooting and I would get good boost. I would pick it up the next time and get little to none. My mechanic is at a loss as to why that is.

My wastegate arm is stiff, and as you can tell from the pic fairly corroded on the outside, but is movable. I'm not losing oil or seeing any discharge from the exhaust. I can only think is that something is loose and letting out air. Getting a second opinion shortly. Can't seem to find a turbo specialist in the Pittsburgh area...

VinoRed

VinoRed

SinCity

Hope you get it sorted out and thanks for keeping us updated.

CSmoney28

VinoRed

Hi.. thanks for the offer to help..

I changed the VGT actuator's ovaled out part and the P2263 did not go away

I changed the Boost control valve solenoid and Wastegate control solenoid... and that did not fix P2263

do u have any other suggestions..

I just ordered a Foxwell NT 520 scanner so that I can try to trouble shoot better before swapping any thing else out

Thanks
Vinoy

VinoRed

The tech said the wastegate control solenoid is not holding vacuum... I will check next if it does
The tech said there are no vacuum leaks...
what else can I try on this Acura RDX 2008 that has 200K miles

VinoRed

actually, the turbo on ACURA RDXs (2007 to 2010) are made by Mitsibishi

TD04HL 15T actually could work

This Mitsubishi turbo used in Acura RDX has the numbers:
TD04HL-15T
49389-01040

VinoRed

Here is an image I found on some site selling the Acura RDX 2007 to 2011 engine along with turbo and innercooler attachments still intact...

probably will help someone to visualize where everything is

It shows the exhaust side (dark metal part) of the turbo and the compressor side ( the silver part)... and the oil cooling lines feeding in-between them

the solenoid valves ( boost control valve solenoid and wastegate control valve solenoids) to the left side in the image...

we can easily see the VGT actuator behind the metal pipe that brings hot compressed air to the innercooler... and also the wastegate actuator at the very bottom of the image below the compressor side of the turbo is very slightly visible...

Lots of useful info in this pic... and how things actually look...

Good luck everyone...

waiting on the scanner that will be delivered tomorrow..

next checking :
1) pin hole leaks in the actuators (VGT boost control actuator and wastegate actuator) and see if there is a any air leak in their diaphragms, by using vacuum pump
2) test if ( don't know the exact psi) at which these actuators open and if they are opening at that psi... ( does any one know at what psi should these 2 actauators actually supposed to open up?)
3) Check if the vertical shaft that I replaced the ovaled out part ( under and connected to the VGT actuator), if that distance needs to be reduced so that the extra door inside the exhaust, does not open until there is enough boost, to allow more exhaust to go into the turbo spool, when VGT actuator presses down. If that internal door connected to VGT actuator is slightly open from the beginning, then the initial exhaust will not have enough force to build boost and let the VGT actuator to feel the positive pressure on it's diaphragm to push the VGT actuator rod down even.. is what I'm guessing..

Any other thoughts or any numbers I can call.. please let me know...




Thanks

VinoRed

Hi Darren and Fello Acura Enthusiasts!!!

Need your help to analyze this scan data from my car ASAP... Thanks a lot for quick opinions and comments...

P2263 still occurred again
I bought Foxwell 520 NT pro scanner and downloaded the Honda software ( that also has Acura cars covered as well)


Some observations and help need on some of these:
1) There is a F-CAN: Fast Controlled Area communicator lines ( wires) in Honda/ Acura vehicles that has a code that it has failed....
2) The readings from the sensors to the PCM ( especially when we see the freeze frame (The data of various parameters when the data p (Power train code) code like P2263, occurred is stored in freeze frame) data values, I see that barometric sensor value was one time 102 psi and the engine speed was recorded as 119mph.. and the other time it was recorded as 14.6 psi and 74mph respectively in a subsequent time when P2263 occurred again. This makes us think that Barrometer sensor is sometimes giving the correct values... and deffinitely engine speed is reported wrong both times... and it could a case of all wiring (between the sensors and the PCM) going all bad ( which would be really horrible.. Don't know how to correctly determine if this is an issue with engine speed sensor and other sensors or it is a wiring problem
3) The wastegate actuator was almost never activated even after I decelerated after a boost buildup in boost buildup gauge. I've a screen shot of this with graphs of wategate actuator graph and boost pressure graph. Also when I tried the wastegate valve control solenoid activation test using the scanner.. the actuator was badly making rattling big sound continuously... looks like a similar behavior is captured on the graph where the wastegate control solenoid % dips to 30% ( anything above 85 % means the solenoid is working in normal conditions, even it is not 100%... The other boost control solenoid I replaced shows about 98%. but this wastegate control solenoid only shows 89% and may be close to failing may be too)but also there is a straight line at 89% continuously too....
4) I will check if the VFT (Variable Flow Turbo actuator .. which is also loosely called CGT: Variable Geometry Turbo actuator) holds vacuum when I connect the metal protrusion from it's head to a hand held vacuum pump with say 5psi vacuum. This will test if the diaphragm inside the actuator does not have any pinholes and the vacuum holds... I will do a similar test with wastegate control actuator as well to se if it's diaphragm holds the vacuum
5) I'm attaching a few images of the scan details that has freeze data when P2263 occurred.. If someone can read these details and the correlation between them.. please analyse and share your comments ASAP.. or call or leave a ,message on 6509682708
6) I've attached also the live data when I was having the car in idle.. I recorded a video of a few parameters when I was driving the car.. but realize now that I should have hit pause in live data saving when the car is running on the road to get the snapshot of what is happening when a boost is occurring etc... ( instead of this engine in idle in parked state and captured live data)

Thanks!!!

VinoRed

SinCity

I don't have an answer because I do not know. However, I do want to thank you for documenting everything.

C_Shot

Second that. I'm having similar problems and have been doing some trouble shooting as well. I think that I'm leaking air at some point.

I created a plug with a valve to shoot air into it with a bike pump. I can hear the air leaking away from the turbo but can't identify where at this point. I tried with the intercooler off but can't sufficiently plug the various other openings created with removing it.

While poking around I found some damage to the rubber hose going to the wastegate. I removed and don't think that is the source of my leak, but I plan on replacing it nonetheless.

If I do find my leak I'll post the location.

Thanks!

VinoRed

CSmoney28

Poveiro

@VinoRed HI, have you removed your turbo to see if is stuck open?

VinoRed

VinoRed

VinoRed

CSmoney28

VinoRed

C_Shot

Update: air leak found, boost is back, so is p2263

After a lot of testing with my homemade plug and pump I found the source of my air leak. The connection to the air bypass outlet (the s-shaped pipe going from the intake to the air bypass valve) was loose. When I pinpointed it I also found a good amount of oily residue, which makes sense given this has probably been happening for some time.

I removed everything. cleaned everything, and reattached with some electrical tape around the opening to make it more secure. When testing prior to driving I could still tell some air was escaping, but less. I took it for a long drive and got decent boost (I was getting little to no boost prior). At the end of the drive P2263 came back. I hadn't gotten it all the last several weeks. I can only guess that since my turbo was not activating at all the pressure sensor wasn't being tripped.

I ordered the connection and the clamps. I also ordered the air tub to the wastegate actuator which I had found was damaged previously. I'm hoping that installing these fixes my issues. I'm somewhat encouraged given that it had felt like I was driving on 2 cylinders for some time and now it feels like I have at least 3.

Poveiro

I don't think you need to remove the turbo to see if is stuck open, you have to remove the warm up catalytic converter so you can look at the valve, as seen in my video.
I may have skipped some reading on this thread. (sorry if I did)
Well I guess you found your problem, good for you.
Less work.

CSmoney28

weebus

Hey, I just came here to say I've been struggling with the same p2263 code as a lot of you. I could see slop in the VGT actuator end, and had a nasty rattle when I let off the accelerator. I ordered Darrens VGT actuator end and installed it yesterday using the procedure in post #267 (great advise, thank you @QFT !). I wanted to add a couple words of advise.
1) remove the exhaust heat shield! it makes it a lot easier, and is only 3 10mm's.
2) remove the intercooler! it may take a little extra time up front, but saves you time and some skin off your knuckles in the long run. take out the intercooler mounting bolts, the BOV tube, disconnect hose clamps from turbo and throttlebody, and just fold the whole intercooler over the front of the engine.
3) while loosening the lock nut, there's a yellow paint mark. Count how many turns you get until the nut backs into the actuator end, write it down or remember it! I counted 3.
4) count how many turns of the barrel until VGT end is released AND STOP TURNING IT! I got 7 turns.
5) when you go to install the new VGT actuator end, tighten the barrel the same number of turn as it took to remove it, then do the same with the lock nut. if you still have a gap between the 2, tighten the barrel, not the lock nut. I found that Darrens piece had a couple extra threads on it, meaning the same number of turns (of the barrel part) didn't quite get it to the same position on the new end piece. At first I installed it using the 7 turns and adjusted the lock nut accordingly. I still had the off throttle rattle, boost felt slightly different, and I noticed the boost gauge only read about 90% when at full throttle. The p2263 came back within 15 miles, but after thinking about it while driving, I decided to tighten the barrel down a little more, believing the rattle was due to slack, and the limited boost may be because of the actuator end adjustment. With everything still in place, I got my 10mm wrench down there and tightened the barrel down an extra turn, but it still rattled. In small increments, i continued tightening and testing for the rattle. After 1 more full turn, so 2 more than my original 7, the rattle disappeared. I went and test drove the vehicle again, did 59 hard miles with no stored codes, no rattle, and all my readiness monitors compete. I passed smog this morning.
Thank you to everyone who has kept this thread alive for 7 years (!!). There's great information here, Darrens a life saver, and some of us may be able to save $4000. I hope this helps. -Kelby

VinoRed

Congratulations on smog pass.. and Thanks for the detailed notes

a quick question...

Do you remember of the rod that was hanging from the VGT actuator ( that goes into the barrel) was freely rotating? or was it fixed and when we twist the barrel, the rod is not moving or rotating freely ( thus the barrel can actually screw onto the rod better)

I see that the one I have hanging from the VGT actuator is freely rotating ( suspect the metal washer holding it in place has separated like it did for itjim... ) and so the barrel only goes a little bit onto the top rod, with great difficulty... ( as the rod rotates and does not screw into the barrel)

Thanks

weebus

Hey I'm having a hard time coming up with an answer to that. While making this repair with the actuator in the car, you cannot see above the barrel, and i didn't remove the barrel to inspect this piece.

VinoRed

CSmoney28

VinoRed