Ok - what next after the down and mid pipe?

I want more power and believe I am getting fuel cut when boosting.

Also it looks like Hondata made a flashpro for the CRZ but nothing for the RDX.

http://hondata.com/flashpro_cr-z.html

Sadness.

 

Update on this mod? How is it holding up?

Did anyone ever get to a dyno with this mod, Hondata and CAI?

Anyone with this mod who also bought the new TMIC?

TIA.

 

After many miles, mine cracked.

The OEM downpipe was reinstalled and the low-end torque was back (at 3500rpm), but the high-end power was gone (4500rpm). After driving without the DP, I missed the power and sound. It was like driving an RDX with a cork in the exhaust. Acceleration was smooth though.

I repaired it and installed a flex pipe so it doesn't happen again.

 

aww suck!!!

where did you put the flex section? midpipe?

i'mma have to check this thing out one of these days...

 

I just picked up an 11' FWD and I'm ready to start the show. Does anyone know if these are still being made? They aren't on Alpermotorsports.com anymore, I'm not sure where to go next. I'm ready to pay someone tomorrow, just point, Please!

 

Installed Vibrant Turboflex 46666 on the midpipe right behind the hanger.

Great quality product from Vibrant with a 3" ID so it slips right over the pipe making it easy to install.
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1014

If I were to start from scratch I'd use a longer flex like 8" and place it as far forward as possible before the hanger (to reduce the vibrations from the hanger).

I blame my bad CV joint vibrations for causing the crack, not the downpipe. When the downpipe cracked it was super loud and there were flames shooting out from the crack!

 

Hay Every one Attached is a link to pictures of the Nico Stainless Steel Down Pipe from Me Alper Motorsports, I would Attache a Picture But I am not allowed yet,

So this is a link to Facebook to see the Pics of the Stainless Steel Down Pipe Tig Welded with the use of V-Band Clamps

Face Book Link

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Alper-...87688861278241

 

Looks good! How much?

I spoke to Marcus from Heeltoe and he might be interested in a production run with my jig if there's enough demand. You guys can email him to get started.

 

Dont Worry Guys, If someone wants one just email me takes about a week for the parts and a week to finish up the Pipe,

Stainless Steel or Mild Steel

Tig welded or Mig welded

If you Go to Alper Motorsports Facebook you will see we are putting in a 8'' Flex pipe in all the straight tubes,

We dont need multiple orders, just hit us up Thanks.

Jason

 

Price?

 

Just sent email on your website

 

From the post on FB:
V-band is the way to go, but the 3-bolt flange after the midpipe is good for those who want to bolt up the stock catback.

 

I agree with Infamous Jamous, I like the V-Bands, we do them both ways, if using the stock straight pip I would use long bolts with springs, like the chevy's to help with flex and rigid pipe 3 feet long will crack, so adding a flex point in the center will help,

I can also put kits in a package with cut parts for someone that wants to tackle the welding portion, or we can sell the individual parts, We do not get brakes on the Stainless Bends or the Mild Steel Bends, but the flanges are made in-house, with our water Jet. and them machined in our lathe,

The Pipes we can make any way,

Stainless Steel Tig Welded, is $650 or Mig welded for $500

Mild Steel is Mig Welded is $390

You can choose from Stainless V-Band or Flanges for the same price,

Straight Pipe with 6-8'' Stainless steel Flex Pipe and Flange is $375 Stainless or $300 Mild,

This is Made to Order, so Lead time on Parts are about 1 Week and a Week to Complete,

 

Interesting.

How much you are going to sell your top front 3 bolt flange & low end 2 bolt flange ?

BU

 

The Top Flange, Machined for the Turbo is $88, and the 2 Bolt Flange is $46

 

Very interest

All Stainless ? What grade may I ask ??

BU

 

That is a 4130 Chromoly Steel, I will check on the Stainless, but the stainless flange can leak under high heat, But I can check on material if you really want one, not a big issue,

How many are you looking for?

 

Jason,

The prices sound reasonable. Do you guys purge when TIG welding?

I recommend 1/2" thickness for the upper DP flange to prevent warping/leaks though, since it gets up to 1500-1700F degrees. As you may already know, 321 stainless is ideal for high-temp applications like the DP (I got away with 304).

 

I know this is a stupid question, but I am not a car guy and what pipes am I looking at in these facebook pictures? Is that 2 different pipes? Like a downpipe and midpipe? Or what? thanks

 

The short S-shaped unit is the downpipe/warm-up cat. The long one is the mid-pipe/secondary cat. They are bolted together in the FB pics.

The bigger picture:

 

i use a purge kit, you can get them at some welding shops, they are aluminum coves with 1/8 pipe fittings, then I run a t of my Argon tank, or you can use a dual tank system,

 

Jalper, is the weld bead going to go around the entire joint? That pics shows like a tack weld.

 

This is great news!!! but how do you get over the CEL issue?

 

Yes, it is just a Tack, id does go around the entire pipe, I was having issues trying to post more pics, will try again

 

That looks purdy... drooool

 

These look awesome; but the big question is how do you permanently solve the CEL issue even after a few thousand miles?

 

My offer for 3" stainess TIG welded downpipes still stands for $600.

These are 2-piece with 1/2" thick upper flanges. Choice of lower flanges are stock (to mate with stock midpipe) or v-band (for custom cat-back systems).

A little competition doesn't hurt, just provides better prices and more choices for the buyer.

 

Just curious if anyone has tried these and had any long-term success, looks like they would work with the downpipe. Any feedback would be appreciated

http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/mini-cat-cel-fix.html

 

looks interesting

 

Holy crap! A solution to the Cel issue.

What's the difference between the warm up cat at the downpipe and the 3 way cat at the midpipe?
I was only considering the dowpipe since it's so restrictive, what's the purpose of the warm up cat?

 

Guys, these are 'hit and miss' http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/mini-cat-cel-fix.html
works for some and not for others.

The most consistent fix it to mount the O2 in the mid-pipe and use an O2 extention harness to reach it at that location

 

Wspy, do you know of anyone that has used these for any other vehicle?

 

They do work on many vehicles.
Its just that the RDX's emissions system is a very finicky one. Some guys use them and it works for a period then the check light pops up. Few are lucky enough to use it with no problems.

 

I was able to get a Primary Cat from someone that parted out an engine and other stuff from a wrecked RDX for cheap. I am in the process of gutting it and putting it on my RDX and was going to use these on there. Will let everyone know the outcome...stay tuned; gutting the primary cat is not easiest thing to do

 

So much good work from everyone here in this post. I love this little engine and wish I could justify the $$$$.

Gawd, I wish Acura had put this turbo in the TSX!!!!

 

They still should and also in the Civic SI, Element as well. Total FAIL on Honda's part to not further develop this engine/turbo and not use it in other cars.

 

Imagine the aftermarket support we'd have if they did further develop it! I think they failed in the fuel economy department, otherwise it's a killer engine that's just missing vtec for exhaust.

Come on Jason, under cut me so these guys can get DP's for less!

 

In an SI hatch, weighing about 2900lbs, FWD, lower aero profile... I'd say this motor would get 25c 31h if it wasn't romped every go.

But even spirited would be hard pressed to be under 20mpg in that small of a car.

shoulda woulda coulda

 

Would this downpipe option really boost mpg's? enough to justify getting it for just that reason? I think the cat on the car is on its way out so instead of paying more for a new one, maybe do a downpipe and get rid of all that mess together.

 

Yes, either midpipe and/or downpipe will boost your MPG/power depending on how you drive. It'll run much more efficiently.

I sold a midpipe to KenB350z and he reported a 1-2 MPG increase.

YMMV though.