RDX Down Pipe and CAT delete!!
#44
Intermediate
down pipe
Guys if you would like we can do all kinds of neet stuff.Now here is were your input comes.I talked to Jason about a exhaust cutout for this setup.Now i know none of you guys wuold uncork this baby. BUT I DAMN SURE WOULD. So light it up guys what do you want and dont say more pics they are coming.Can do cut outs anywere. We think it would be best at bottom of first cat delete.And you guys questioned the newbie.Thanks don 7022371184
Last edited by fstcrvs; 05-24-2011 at 12:47 PM.
#47
WTF?
Looks good FSTCRVS, is the next step a high flow cat added to it? also any word on if this would fit the 2010/11's?
i know the acura pipeing is heavy have you weighed the difference in savings on that too?
i know the acura pipeing is heavy have you weighed the difference in savings on that too?
#48
Intermediate
down pipe
We can do a high flow second cat.I would like to get a few out first then we can do any need.Guys as far as weight savings goes it is lighter.I will weigh old one against new one and give weight.Guys these pipes have the same flange thickness as stock turbo flange wich is about a half inch.We made all four flanges a half inch.No they do not need to be this heavy.We beleive the extra weight is not a problem as i can assure you you cant warp this thing.It will also work much better if you want to hook to stock second cat.And hell you may need it to tow your buddys suburu out.These parts are made to last all steel pipe welded at seems all pipes spot welded before full welding to elimenate warpage at time of welding.Guys Jason welds on 900 horsepower sand rails if that holds he can weld anything i have. I beleive in put it on and forget it for life. I want to drive them now not work on them.Also in early testing pang was right the fuel mileage is unbelieveable i will moniter it and let you know it looks great. Thanks don
#49
Intermediate
Sin city it should pass smog no problem as we set the second o2 far enough out to not set check engine light thanks pang for figureing that one out saved me a lot of work.Guys in nevada they only check for codes set no more sniffing on newer cars no code you pass.I was a smog tech my buddy is a 25 yr caddy line mechanic who also agrees .We will check it but it will pass By the way you should all know by now these are TEST pipes so you can see if your cats are PLUGGED .For all you leagle types that is a disclamer .Come on guys we all know what is going on here take cats off it could void the warranty if you need to switch them out your old cats will still bolt right in.Wich is why we used welded flanges and not the v band clamp.The v band would be easier to build but you need both parts down pipe and second cat delete to use v band. We wanted to make them more user friendly. Same for cat deletes and smog we all know by law they the CATS are supposed to be on. I HOPE I AM CLEAR HERE WILL IT PASS YES IS IT LEAGLE DO YOU REALLY NEED TO ASK. So for all the rest of you lets go hammer on this puppy. Thanks don
Last edited by fstcrvs; 05-24-2011 at 06:59 PM.
#51
Intermediate
down pipe
Ok guys i did not try to scare you off .I was covering my legal bases.Ok lets have some FUN now.I believe in the real world guys. So i will have a pipe done today.There are a couple of you here in Vegas.Lets have one or all of you call me.You can check out the pipes. we will look at each others rides.I have a 2009 rdx. only mods are hondata heat shield and ddp-don's down pipe (thanks wspy). I have not made a pass down the old quarter mile in a while. no it won't be a 9.90 run but it will still be a kick in the ass. In the old days I would have met you on a highway. That is how I met the smartest guy I know. We have one of the best tracks in the nation. I hope you see where I am going here. You know my mods. Bring me your rides, we meet at the strip and post all real world results. Now guys I am considered a tuner not a driver.Yes, I will put a ringer in to drive my rdx.I do not know for sure i have been told he was a past vegas track chanpion . I think this is the only way to really show our stuff. Ok lets rock and roll. Thanks don 702-237-1184
Last edited by fstcrvs; 05-25-2011 at 08:34 AM.
#53
Intermediate
The mileage has increased by so much it will now take me a while to empty it and get a good reading.Pang also said his mpg increased by a large amount.If i rember right it was 3 to 5 mpg .Please dont quote me on that.I will let you know more as i drive.I will say these pipes will more than pay for them selfs.I cant beleive no one in las vegas wants to see one of these pipes done. I thought you guys wanted someone to make a down pipe?Thanks don
Last edited by fstcrvs; 05-25-2011 at 10:04 PM.
#54
Copy cat shinobi
The mileage has increased by so much it will now take me a while to empty it and get a good reading.Pang also said his mpg increased by a large amount.If i rember right it was 3 to 5 mpg .Please dont quote me on that.I will let you know more as i drive.I will say these pipes will more than pay for them selfs.I cant beleive no one in las vegas wants to see one of these pipes done. I thought you guys wanted someone to make a down pipe?Thanks don
#56
#57
mrgold35
Any dyno numbers someone can post with the down pipe? With and without Hondata?
I'm a little worried about the 5AT and sh-awd being able to handle the extra hp/tq long-term. I'm assuming the 5AT/sh-awd in the RDX is exactly the same as the 300hp/270tq MDX with the 5000 tow capacity (just different tq vectoring programming). I am again assuming the RDX+downpipe+hondata will not put the same amount of stress on the 5AT+sh-awd as a MDX pulling 5,000lbs (5AT MDX, not 6AT).
Will anyone do any upgrades to the 5AT/sh-awd (upgrade fluids, increase replacement intervals, oil cooler, etc...).
I'm a little worried about the 5AT and sh-awd being able to handle the extra hp/tq long-term. I'm assuming the 5AT/sh-awd in the RDX is exactly the same as the 300hp/270tq MDX with the 5000 tow capacity (just different tq vectoring programming). I am again assuming the RDX+downpipe+hondata will not put the same amount of stress on the 5AT+sh-awd as a MDX pulling 5,000lbs (5AT MDX, not 6AT).
Will anyone do any upgrades to the 5AT/sh-awd (upgrade fluids, increase replacement intervals, oil cooler, etc...).
#58
WTF?
^ per an article with sean church the trannys in the RDX are pretty rock solid and can take a ton of abuse.. i saw it somewhere on here about the article and want to say the tranny could easily take around 400+hp and tq.. dont quote me on it until the article is found but i know that adding a downpipe, exhaust, hondata, and an intake arent going to make the tranny flinch.. plus if you are running a good synthetic and the new honda tranny fluid you should feel safer..
#59
WTF?
Per sean church posting when they first did the hondata reflash and had the downpipe full back exhaust
Re: Project RDX update (Score: 1, Normal) 01-26-2007 01:04
I'm not too worried about engine durability at present (tranny durability? we'll have to watch it for 10k miles of hard use and do an analysis of the fluid). Here's why.
1) Past experience - We've tuned a number of stock block k20/k24 engines that have been turbocharged. The weakest of these engines is arguably the K20A3 from the EP3 Si, the strongest, the K24A2 from the TSX. When I talk about weakness, I primarily look at rod strength (the K20A3 rods are tiny), cylinder wall strength and piston strength. Honda cranks are bulletproof to over 800 hp so they don't even enter into consideration. Of all the aftermarket turbocharged K-motors we've dyno'd, none of them have any trouble supporting 250+ lbs-ft of torque to the wheels for long periods of time. In fact, we've found that the limits of a completely stock block K20A2 (RSX-S) block tends to be reached between 300 to 350 lbs-ft of torque. The K24 seems a bit stronger than that. The primary failure mode for engines pushed beyond this point tend to be piston failure (cast pistons, small ring lands for N/A use), ring failure (probably due to overheating of the ring area or overexpansion of the piston) or headgasket.
2) Design of the new engine. Honda designed the K23A to handle sustained output in excess of 260 lbs-ft. From past experience, that would indicate the ability to support far more torque. Second, the bores on the new engine are substantially thicker than the other K-series designs out there. Third, the piston design is far better suited to FI, with the rings moved down to protect them, and more durable materials used for the piston. Finally, a much lower compression ratio (remember, the other turbocharged engines I discussed were running 10-11:1 compression ratios). I don't think that 400+ lbs-ft of torque will be _any_ problem on this engine. And it will probably support a lot more.
3) We're not pushing that hard. I'm hoping to pick up 50 lbs-ft of torque at peak. A 20% overcapacity is well within design specs for any automanufacturer, let alone Honda.
SC
p.s. - certainly any iron block turbo engine is going to have better long term durability (iron is tougher than aluminum), but at the power levels most people look at, aluminum isn't an issue.
Re: Project RDX update (Score: 1, Normal) 01-26-2007 01:04
I'm not too worried about engine durability at present (tranny durability? we'll have to watch it for 10k miles of hard use and do an analysis of the fluid). Here's why.
1) Past experience - We've tuned a number of stock block k20/k24 engines that have been turbocharged. The weakest of these engines is arguably the K20A3 from the EP3 Si, the strongest, the K24A2 from the TSX. When I talk about weakness, I primarily look at rod strength (the K20A3 rods are tiny), cylinder wall strength and piston strength. Honda cranks are bulletproof to over 800 hp so they don't even enter into consideration. Of all the aftermarket turbocharged K-motors we've dyno'd, none of them have any trouble supporting 250+ lbs-ft of torque to the wheels for long periods of time. In fact, we've found that the limits of a completely stock block K20A2 (RSX-S) block tends to be reached between 300 to 350 lbs-ft of torque. The K24 seems a bit stronger than that. The primary failure mode for engines pushed beyond this point tend to be piston failure (cast pistons, small ring lands for N/A use), ring failure (probably due to overheating of the ring area or overexpansion of the piston) or headgasket.
2) Design of the new engine. Honda designed the K23A to handle sustained output in excess of 260 lbs-ft. From past experience, that would indicate the ability to support far more torque. Second, the bores on the new engine are substantially thicker than the other K-series designs out there. Third, the piston design is far better suited to FI, with the rings moved down to protect them, and more durable materials used for the piston. Finally, a much lower compression ratio (remember, the other turbocharged engines I discussed were running 10-11:1 compression ratios). I don't think that 400+ lbs-ft of torque will be _any_ problem on this engine. And it will probably support a lot more.
3) We're not pushing that hard. I'm hoping to pick up 50 lbs-ft of torque at peak. A 20% overcapacity is well within design specs for any automanufacturer, let alone Honda.
SC
p.s. - certainly any iron block turbo engine is going to have better long term durability (iron is tougher than aluminum), but at the power levels most people look at, aluminum isn't an issue.
#61
2008 Acura RDX
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Jamaica W.I.
Age: 61
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R and D Just about Done
Here are some pics of the finished pipes.
They should be ready for sale by next week, you can call Donald (702-237-1184) for those details on how to get yours and pricing.
Don reports that there is a marked power increase; From a stop, he can start to break the tires loose at about 15mph when the turbo kicks in
MPG's have also risen, he is experiencing anywhere from 5 - 10mpg increase since installation...sometimes more!
Hardest part of the install will probably be the removal of the stock (rusted) factory parts.
Enjoy
They should be ready for sale by next week, you can call Donald (702-237-1184) for those details on how to get yours and pricing.
Don reports that there is a marked power increase; From a stop, he can start to break the tires loose at about 15mph when the turbo kicks in
MPG's have also risen, he is experiencing anywhere from 5 - 10mpg increase since installation...sometimes more!
Hardest part of the install will probably be the removal of the stock (rusted) factory parts.
Enjoy
#64
i got the reflash and typhoon intake... can i run all three or do i have to get rid of the intake and put the stock one back on? i read on hondata that they do not recommend having an intake, reflash, and exhaust but im not sure about the downpipe
thanks
thanks
#65
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bucharest, Romania
Age: 41
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I'm not located in the US so I would need a few more details about this:
1. what is the price for the kit?
2. is the hondata reflash required ? what would be the gain in terms of power/mpg without the reflash?
3. would you ship it to Europe?
1. what is the price for the kit?
2. is the hondata reflash required ? what would be the gain in terms of power/mpg without the reflash?
3. would you ship it to Europe?
#73
Copy cat shinobi
As much as a change, as this seems, there will be no distinct change in sound.
lol,(no disrespect)Your sound clip: is go to your RDX and start it up and listen. I meantioned this to FSTCRVS before he installed it too.
Inline 4s are just that way.
lol,(no disrespect)Your sound clip: is go to your RDX and start it up and listen. I meantioned this to FSTCRVS before he installed it too.
Inline 4s are just that way.
#74
2008 NBP
There is no way that by removing the catalyst in the dp and the cat, that there will be NO change in exaust tone. Even though it may be very little I still care to hear it. No way in hell im gonna pay close to 900$ for an exhaust system I havent heard. Thats like buying a stereo because the best buy guy said it sounded good. I dont see a reason why a short clip is out of the question... Especially since he is trying to sell his product. I made a video for the BOV I fabricated... not hard'
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prongATO (02-01-2013)
#76
Copy cat shinobi
There is no way that by removing the catalyst in the dp and the cat, that there will be NO change in exaust tone. Even though it may be very little I still care to hear it. No way in hell im gonna pay close to 900$ for an exhaust system I havent heard. Thats like buying a stereo because the best buy guy said it sounded good. I dont see a reason why a short clip is out of the question... Especially since he is trying to sell his product. I made a video for the BOV I fabricated... not hard'
In respect to the car stereo analogy: upgrading the head and leaving the stock speaker components yeild very little change in sound.
So now moving to a apple(s) to potato(s) comparison: head unit vs DP. I told FSTCRVS (Don) what to expect from the sound, and he later told me I was right. I'm just passing it on.
If you want a drastic change in sound go with a Cat back; one off or an ATLP system.
Last edited by Kaze66218; 06-13-2011 at 04:48 AM.
#78
anyone buy the down pipe yet off http://alpermotorsports.com/index.ph...duct_list&c=14 ? if you guys did let me know if the check engine light will some on he also states that the pipe is not intended for highway use does that mean that you cant drive on the highway with it?
thanks
thanks
#79
mrgold35
anyone buy the down pipe yet off http://alpermotorsports.com/index.ph...duct_list&c=14 ? if you guys did let me know if the check engine light will some on he also states that the pipe is not intended for highway use does that mean that you cant drive on the highway with it?
thanks
thanks
"This Pipe is intended for racing only, This pipe is not smog legal or intended for Higway use."
It said it wasn't for "higway" use; I think your OK for highway.