JCRDX11

So you don't have any check engine light on?
You just need one new gasket for this intall? 18234-RWC-A01

How long did it take your shop to install the down-pipe and Mid-pipe?
Does your exhaust shoot out black smoke or does it have a bad smell.

I had a 3 inch straight pipe on my old DSM and it did both.

ronrsx

no i dont have a cel using the bung don had welded on the pipe there are no gaskets you need the one off the turboto the new down pipe can be reused it a heavy double steel gasket and the other flanges i used peratex exhaust repair it comes in a tube works fine no leaks.i did it my self it took 1 1/2 days its not the difficultiy of the job just that lack fo space very hard getting you hands in anywhere, there is no black smoke at all. theses also no bad smell at [/PHP][/PHP]all

ronrsx

we both live in new york i live by hillside ave in new hyde park queens if your close by we can meet up and ill give you a ride and you can check it out yourself

wspy

Thanks for sharing Ron

wspy

Ron, what year RDX is yours?

ronrsx

its a 2007

ronrsx

if you want to talk i will give you my # to let you know what is going on with my rdx the pros and cons just pm me you can call tonight if you want if

RDXturbo07

you mind making a video like 0-60 or something like that i wanna see the difference with the downpipe and mid pipe heres a video with mine i have a 07 with hondata and K&N typhoon http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5b9FNgnNFs

hondafan1029

so all the new downpipes have the defouler bung welding on them?? so no check engine light??

OhRDX

I just got mine a couple weeks ago and it had the bung welded on. Gotta get around to getting this ting installed, but work and things have been getting in the way.

wspy

The pipes should come with the fouler installed as per the pic.

JCRDX11

Wspy - is that picture of your downpipe or from Don?

i just got back from meeting Ron - Great guy that provide useful information.

He took me for a swing and also let me drive his car.
The RDX is a lot quicker than mine's.

Ron mods - K&N intake, Hondata reflash, down and mid pipe
He had the front bull bar and rear towing hitch with the bar along with the running boards.

My mods - Weapon R intake with heat shield, Hondata reflash.
Front bull bar and rear towing hitch with hitch ball. nerf side bars.

His car in sport mode gear 2 reaches 80mph with no problems.
Do note that the turbo and exhaust is much louder than before.

Even with a video - it would not do justice because you have to see, hear and feel it in person.

I suggest anyone in vegas to meet up with Don and check out his ride.
Still very shock how Acura restricted the potential power of the RDX.

Maybe for the warranty issues.

OhRDX

I'm part way into the install and cannot figure out for the life of me how to ge tthe downpipe out. The heatshields keep getting in the way. any one with ideas let me know.


I plan to do some pics and small write up later, but right now I'm stuck.

OhRDX

So I'm 10 hours in and still stuck. I tried poping the turbo off to get more room, with the bolts out it wont come off.

I'm about to murder baby japanese kittens right now. I cannot believe they designed the car this tight. There is NO room to work behind the motor.

Do I need to raise the motor off the mounts to get room? I'm out of ideas.

fstcrvs

you have to take the covers off the cat in the car.

sickgixxer33

to remove the cat you do not have to remove the shields off the car or the turbo. if you have a awd mod the only way you will get it out with any ease is to remove the transfer case and the shield over the power steering rack. whole job is at best an hr.

ronrsx

i did the job a few weeks ago with the downpipe unbolted you have to unbolt the heatsheilds .the one on the side closest to the firewall has to be pried away from the cat from the top where its around the pipe bend it away from the pipe and than from the bottom you can wiggle it around the pipe and guide it up. you have to twist the shield and the pipe around alot from under the car and you will find it will come out. once that side is out you can remove the sheild on the engine side from the bottom.than you can finally remove the down pipe it has to come out from the top.but you have to twist it around from the bottom to find that right position to snake it out.youll never got it out trying to pull it from the top.once you have that nightmare over with the install of the new pipe is easy.make sure you have the midpipe removed to get out the downpipe and heatsheilds you will never get anything out with it there.step back and take a break and go back at it fresh. good luck

OhRDX

Got that done. Thanks for the tip. It's very hard to reach all of the screw that hold that POS on. I stripped one and had to dremel it out. Not fun.

Now that the cat really moves around do I need to remove the Intercooler mounting bracket as well? I can almost get it out but it hits the left side of the bracket. That looks even more difficult to remove.

Good luck to everyone about to do this!

I'll finish this in the morning. I've lost enough blood today.

ronrsx

pang, assie and doug installed there downpipes this way

ronrsx

you can get it out without removing the intercooler bracket .the bracket on the right side on the valve cover that holds the hose has to come off.when your fresh tomorrow you get it out

ronrsx

i forgot i took a channel locks and bent the intercooler backet a little bit up to get the pipe out. and then bent it back down it moves real easy with not much force it all

OhRDX

Got it done in about 2 hours this morning. Once you get the old pipe out its pretty much down hill from there.

I drove it aorund to pick up errands today and am getting quite a whistle/whine from the turbo boosting up. I'll wait a day or two and re-tighten and check all the gaps to make sure I don't have any exhaust leak.

That being said I did get a CEL after about 25 miles of driving. The SH-AWD light came on too. I'll let it sit, pull the battery cable to see if it resets, then have to see that the problem is. Just when you think youre done.

JCRDX11

What year is your RDX?
The cell keep coming up for me but I think I might have a dirty MAF. (So quick -)

Just purchase a MAF cleaner and hopefully it does the trick.
Keep us posted on the results also!

OhRDX

I have on '07. I'll try cleaning the maf as well. I do have a K&N and those filters are known to do damage to MAF's due to the oil used.

Pulling the neg battery connection for 20 minutes cleared the code. I'll try and force another CEL later tonight.

JCRDX11

What code are you throwing?

I am getting these -
P0234 - Engine Overboost Condition

P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input

P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank 1)

SH-AWD -77
VSA - 83

OhRDX

How do you check that? I'll write them down after I get the light ot go off later tonight.

JCRDX11

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

But I just purchase a OBD 2 Scanner and waiting for it to be shipped to me - don't want to deal with getting out the car and taking off the plugs from the battery anymore.

Make sure you get the live scanner that tells you the problem and not just the code if you do decide to purchase one.

OhRDX

So I went to Autoplace today to get the codes checked out. I had 3 of them:

MAF
CAT malfunction
Low boost

So I bought some MAF cleaner and went home and popped the hood. As a standard procedure a day or two after I do any type of work on my car I double check everything to make sure all the bolts are still tighenend and everything is up to par.


Midway through my double checks I noticed the IC to TB pipe was not tightened. I cant believe I missed that. All my boost was leaking out the pipe and causing the whistling I was hearing. I tighened the clamps and took it for a ride and all good.

Props to Don for getting this thing done. What a great mod!


Edit: I will be doing a basic DIY thread in a bit. Anyone with any input to it please feel free to add it. Hopefully we can make this a very explicit DIY for the rest of the community.

OhRDX

Driving Impression:

I've posted about everything else, so I guess I'll post on my impression of this mod.

After burning through a 1/4 tank last night running uneeded errands I can say this is a great mod. Normal driving the car just seems to take off smoother with a lot less effort. Hitting the gas pedal is a whole other story. Second gear pulls are very strong. When VTEC kicks in a (VTAK YO!) you can really feel it. On an enterance ramp you can feel the car really pushing you back in your seat. It is very impressive.

I've always driven pretty fast cars, but this large CUV with the power it has now is really a treat. Hondata, K&N, Downpipe and gutted midpipe makes for a great driving experience.

I do not know what the increase in mpg's will be. My GF ususally drives the car and she doesn't keep track. I know if I drive it I will be too deep into the lol pedal to notice any gains.

Again, props to Don for getting this done.

wspy

Sooo.....no more check lights then?

OhRDX

flogged it last night and got nothing.

Drive nice and easy this morning and after 10 miles got another one. what to do , what to do?

ronrsx

to get rid of cel on the 02 efficiency sensor the harness has to be extended you can get a 3 foot plug and play extension on ebay for 20 bucks and with a 02 bung or 2 sparkplug anti fouler put together and drilled out with 1/2 drill bit so o2 sensor can screw in it. Than it must to be mounted on the mid pipe dons pipe has a fitting on it to screw the bung right in... If you dont do this mod the cel will keep coming back sometimes it takes longer to come back on ...but it will return

wspy

Whats the link to that 3ft extention Ron?
Can you just screw the sensor into the O2 bung on the mid pipe or do you have to use a fowler in addition in that location also?

DanRDX

I have been following this thread and I wanted to know with Hondata reflash which leans out the AF mixture and the down-pipe and the mid-pipe install without changing the location of the o2 bung would the CEL still come on?

Add to that and Intake Mod as well.

OhRDX

I just tried a new thing today. I have the downpipe, and gutted my midpipe to get rod of the second cat.

Today I went auto-pep-parts-warehouse and bought a spark plug fouler kit. For $7 you get two foulers. and I put them together end to end and stuffed the inside with Stainless steel wool and put it back on the bung already ported on the downpipe.

Don recommended this to me and I have heard of this working before so I gave it a try.

NO CEL yet, but its only been driven 20 miles. I'll report back when I know more.

DanRDX

Understood but for $400 I would think that there would be some solution that they could provide rather that giving us a DIY trial and error option...Just sayin

OhRDX

I beat on the thing like gas was a $1/gallon. No CEL.





And F-Azine for their horrible editing rules.

wspy

So when using the 2 foulers in series is there no problem with clearance issues having the sensor stick out so much?

Good stuff.....keep us informed

OhRDX

no fitment issues. It does stick out a bit, and I was worried about the wires hanging out, but its been fine. If I have any problems I will fill the bung with Steel wool as well. right now it is just between the foulers.

All said and done, I don't care if I have to play Mr. Fix It for a couple weeks to get this figured out. The Downpipe opens this car up like no other I have seen. It is really incredible and wakes this car up.

JCRDX11

Is your car louder now that both cats are off?
What about regular highway cruising?