K23a1 Build
02-04-2015, 08:43 PM
#602
So here is my interpretation of this post:
Before you start to work on turbo you need to already have either downpipe 3" or full exhaust 2.5-3".
Additionally you heed to have either FMIC or air-to-liquid IC installed.
So this turbo setup consist of original bored hot side, adapter and Garrett GT2860RS.
On the photos you can see how hot side is attached to adapter and how adapter is attached to cartridge. Which means Variable Flow will still be working and both solenoids are still there. There are mounts for solenoids on the cold side.
This should be installed on the OEM exhaust manifold.
What has to be changed/adjusted:
1) Oil feeding: has to be switched to flex feeding and fitting for the original Garrett restrictor 0.9 mm as its a ball bearing turbo.
2) Oil discharge: original Garrett oil discharge should be installed. Original hose can be used or you can switch to a braided one.
3) Coolant feed/discharge: Garrett specific banjo bolts should be used along with fittings.
4) Important: do not forget to use heat shields for all sealings, hoses and pipes.
5) Intake pipe from the IC must be relocated 2 cm closer to the driver side since the 2860 cartridge is longer than the OEM one. Plus, additionally you need to weld 2 nipples (4mm) for variable flow solenoids air supply.
...to be continued
Before you start to work on turbo you need to already have either downpipe 3" or full exhaust 2.5-3".
Additionally you heed to have either FMIC or air-to-liquid IC installed.
So this turbo setup consist of original bored hot side, adapter and Garrett GT2860RS.
On the photos you can see how hot side is attached to adapter and how adapter is attached to cartridge. Which means Variable Flow will still be working and both solenoids are still there. There are mounts for solenoids on the cold side.
This should be installed on the OEM exhaust manifold.
What has to be changed/adjusted:
1) Oil feeding: has to be switched to flex feeding and fitting for the original Garrett restrictor 0.9 mm as its a ball bearing turbo.
2) Oil discharge: original Garrett oil discharge should be installed. Original hose can be used or you can switch to a braided one.
3) Coolant feed/discharge: Garrett specific banjo bolts should be used along with fittings.
4) Important: do not forget to use heat shields for all sealings, hoses and pipes.
5) Intake pipe from the IC must be relocated 2 cm closer to the driver side since the 2860 cartridge is longer than the OEM one. Plus, additionally you need to weld 2 nipples (4mm) for variable flow solenoids air supply.
...to be continued
02-05-2015, 04:27 AM
#604
Drifting
Thread Starter
02-05-2015, 04:30 AM
#605
Drifting
Thread Starter
So here is my interpretation of this post:
Before you start to work on turbo you need to already have either downpipe 3" or full exhaust 2.5-3".
Additionally you heed to have either FMIC or air-to-liquid IC installed.
So this turbo setup consist of original bored hot side, adapter and Garrett GT2860RS.
On the photos you can see how hot side is attached to adapter and how adapter is attached to cartridge. Which means Variable Flow will still be working and both solenoids are still there. There are mounts for solenoids on the cold side.
This should be installed on the OEM exhaust manifold.
What has to be changed/adjusted:
1) Oil feeding: has to be switched to flex feeding and fitting for the original Garrett restrictor 0.9 mm as its a ball bearing turbo.
2) Oil discharge: original Garrett oil discharge should be installed. Original hose can be used or you can switch to a braided one.
3) Coolant feed/discharge: Garrett specific banjo bolts should be used along with fittings.
4) Important: do not forget to use heat shields for all sealings, hoses and pipes.
5) Intake pipe from the IC must be relocated 2 cm closer to the driver side since the 2860 cartridge is longer than the OEM one. Plus, additionally you need to weld 2 nipples (4mm) for variable flow solenoids air supply.
...to be continued
Before you start to work on turbo you need to already have either downpipe 3" or full exhaust 2.5-3".
Additionally you heed to have either FMIC or air-to-liquid IC installed.
So this turbo setup consist of original bored hot side, adapter and Garrett GT2860RS.
On the photos you can see how hot side is attached to adapter and how adapter is attached to cartridge. Which means Variable Flow will still be working and both solenoids are still there. There are mounts for solenoids on the cold side.
This should be installed on the OEM exhaust manifold.
What has to be changed/adjusted:
1) Oil feeding: has to be switched to flex feeding and fitting for the original Garrett restrictor 0.9 mm as its a ball bearing turbo.
2) Oil discharge: original Garrett oil discharge should be installed. Original hose can be used or you can switch to a braided one.
3) Coolant feed/discharge: Garrett specific banjo bolts should be used along with fittings.
4) Important: do not forget to use heat shields for all sealings, hoses and pipes.
5) Intake pipe from the IC must be relocated 2 cm closer to the driver side since the 2860 cartridge is longer than the OEM one. Plus, additionally you need to weld 2 nipples (4mm) for variable flow solenoids air supply.
...to be continued
I don't know about all that, but I will keep you posted on what we come up with. Still talking with BIG companies about a turbo kit.
02-05-2015, 06:02 AM
#606
RDX faN BoY
02-05-2015, 06:05 AM
#607
RDX faN BoY
Hahaha your in for some crazy numbers. Im getting his tune just with a intake for now. Going to do injectors and Downpipe in 1 shot and just do 1 retune. Can't wait to see what vit pulls out of it. How's your tranny been holding up? Just normal fluid changes?
02-05-2015, 09:38 AM
#608
Drifting
Thread Starter
02-05-2015, 09:53 AM
#609
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm on my ninth data log with them. I haven't had the chance to test out the current tune, due to all the R&D stuff going on now. But, so far it's all been good tunes for me. I can't wait to get it back on the road. The trans is holding up good, I did a full service transmission fluid change at honda around 60k.
02-06-2015, 07:21 AM
#612
RDX faN BoY
I'm on my ninth data log with them. I haven't had the chance to test out the current tune, due to all the R&D stuff going on now. But, so far it's all been good tunes for me. I can't wait to get it back on the road. The trans is holding up good, I did a full service transmission fluid change at honda around 60k.
awesome, i am due for a oil change shortly so going to do that and the tranny. Only honda ATF right?
02-11-2015, 09:01 AM
#614
RDX faN BoY
02-11-2015, 09:06 AM
#615
Drifting
Thread Starter
02-12-2015, 09:40 AM
#617
RDX faN BoY
damn going to be nice once it is all done. I've been thinking of auto-xing mine. Sitting around today waiting for my downpipe to show up.. injectors came yesterday fglashpro monday. Its allll coming together.How did you run your catch can off the pcv right?
02-12-2015, 10:09 AM
#618
Drifting
Thread Starter
Nice, I'm sure you're going upload some vids. Speaking of, I still need to grab a few gopro's! The catch can is ran off the pcv valve and valve cover breather.
02-14-2015, 09:29 PM
#631
Drifting
Thread Starter
02-15-2015, 02:35 PM
#638
Most of them will be having around 300 whp on the same dyno where Ken has 280. The difference is in the IAT. Its rarely coming out of +45C on +30C day. The difference between TMIC and a2w ic is 25-35C which is huge. This allows you to have more aggressive tune. Along with what Ken already has this setup will bring him to 300-315 whp easily.
There is also another build in Russia that has Garrett turbo swap, a2w ic and some other goodies. Around 330 whp.
Thats what you need in order to get ~13s quarter.
There is also another build in Russia that has Garrett turbo swap, a2w ic and some other goodies. Around 330 whp.
Thats what you need in order to get ~13s quarter.
I beg to differ ill go to the track this year and get into the 13's
02-15-2015, 02:55 PM
#639
So here is my interpretation of this post:
Before you start to work on turbo you need to already have either downpipe 3" or full exhaust 2.5-3".
Additionally you heed to have either FMIC or air-to-liquid IC installed.
So this turbo setup consist of original bored hot side, adapter and Garrett GT2860RS.
On the photos you can see how hot side is attached to adapter and how adapter is attached to cartridge. Which means Variable Flow will still be working and both solenoids are still there. There are mounts for solenoids on the cold side.
This should be installed on the OEM exhaust manifold.
What has to be changed/adjusted:
1) Oil feeding: has to be switched to flex feeding and fitting for the original Garrett restrictor 0.9 mm as its a ball bearing turbo.
2) Oil discharge: original Garrett oil discharge should be installed. Original hose can be used or you can switch to a braided one.
3) Coolant feed/discharge: Garrett specific banjo bolts should be used along with fittings.
4) Important: do not forget to use heat shields for all sealings, hoses and pipes.
5) Intake pipe from the IC must be relocated 2 cm closer to the driver side since the 2860 cartridge is longer than the OEM one. Plus, additionally you need to weld 2 nipples (4mm) for variable flow solenoids air supply.
...to be continued
Before you start to work on turbo you need to already have either downpipe 3" or full exhaust 2.5-3".
Additionally you heed to have either FMIC or air-to-liquid IC installed.
So this turbo setup consist of original bored hot side, adapter and Garrett GT2860RS.
On the photos you can see how hot side is attached to adapter and how adapter is attached to cartridge. Which means Variable Flow will still be working and both solenoids are still there. There are mounts for solenoids on the cold side.
This should be installed on the OEM exhaust manifold.
What has to be changed/adjusted:
1) Oil feeding: has to be switched to flex feeding and fitting for the original Garrett restrictor 0.9 mm as its a ball bearing turbo.
2) Oil discharge: original Garrett oil discharge should be installed. Original hose can be used or you can switch to a braided one.
3) Coolant feed/discharge: Garrett specific banjo bolts should be used along with fittings.
4) Important: do not forget to use heat shields for all sealings, hoses and pipes.
5) Intake pipe from the IC must be relocated 2 cm closer to the driver side since the 2860 cartridge is longer than the OEM one. Plus, additionally you need to weld 2 nipples (4mm) for variable flow solenoids air supply.
...to be continued
is this on the euro/Russian build?