anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Because in the real world, exhaust mods on these cars don't make the crazy numbers many people seem to think they do.

I'm gonna try to get down there this year. I heard it's a pretty decent track? And they run test and tune on Wednesday nights, no?

Keep me posted on that place in Scotia and how they do with the ecu, since I'll be looking for a good tuner somewhere between Rochester and Albany.

Richie v6

I don't believe this is the case if you have bigger injectors. Reverting back to a stock ecu with bigger injectors will cause the engine to run rich possibly washing the cylinder walls of oil causing premature engine wear.

With OBDII emissions testing you will need the stock ECU to have all its system monitors ready and passed. That's why you can't just pulls the battery, rest the ECU and go in for testing. I was hoping the new ECU would send some false signals to the stock ECU to keep all the system monitors passed sorta like what FIC does if tuned correctly.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

you will see a mpg pic by "Hi Speed" or someone like that.....he has a supercharger and bigger injectors and his onboard computer reads the MPG wrong as its decided by the duty cycle of the injectors....my point being the AFR remains (kinda) constant, your not running the bigger injectors to their full capacity....you will gain the same with STOCK injectors....

the ECU tells (say) "drizzle" 1 drop of fuel, it will do the same with these injectors....just coz you have bigger injectors it wont drizzle 3 drops of fuel....you will be running these bigger injectors at a lower duty cycle or the stock injectors at a higher duty cycle....

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Another reminder.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ quick post from my cell phone...

Thanks for the reminder, I have already spoken to Rodney. This will happen tonight

pass427

I just got off phone with Micheal from internet brands hes handling vendorship ,he contacted me as office is closed today ,but he has all info so as he get in the morning he will email me all info and have me up and Running on the site tomorrow ...

the fenda rolla

^^^ good to hear!

pass427

The ecus will come with a base map that will be pretty close ,as far as fine tuning the self tune software is actually better than a tuner it uses feed back from o2 we usually use an aem wideand and hookup white wire to ms3 this will allow self tuning program to work *******to use self tune a tune has to be in ecu pretty close already which will be sent out with all ecu accordingly ******....

To save some money to n/a guys the oem injectors are pretty good even with all mods so if your not planning on going positive pressure a injector upgrade is not necessary.

To pass emission for n/a guys with oem injectors is pretty simple id say two options reset codes if any or simply unplug ecu and plug oem ecu in as this is easy as unplugging the plugs from aem jumper harness and plugging them in ecu ,

for upgraded injectors simply plugging in ecu will throw a cell even with ms3 as oem ecu will realize bank1 or 2 is running rich, so if an injector upgraded is not absolutely needed one less thing to purchase ..

with ms3 plugged up only cell weve seen over past is bank1 or bank2 too rich this does not affect performance as ms3 does not send signal back to ecu like the aem fic as this is not a piggy back but rather a programmable ecu that will also run car by itself ,witout help of oem ecu ,but in our case we need the oem ecu to control ac idle an all other luxury functions ,options are unlimited wit ecu boost control ,water meth control, e85 ect ................
ill try to answer as much questions i can ,as i know a lot of people really want this once ordered we have set our self in gear to get them wired and sent out as i get aal payments in lets say within a weeek all payments are in ill make a batch order ecu will take 3;5 days to get in once ecu are in ill have them out witin a week ,been that we have a few orders we have someone to solely wire and config these ecus and get them out ........

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

rodney, what base map is included? on what car? what supporting mods?

how did things go with the type-s the other day?

the fenda rolla

Is a wideband completely necessary for the self-tune or will the stock O2 sensors be adequate? And what exactly is needed/done to hookup the wideband?

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Ok to get this straight; the ecu's will come with as close of a tune to my specific mods on my car using oem injectors, correct?

Also am I to understand that these ecu's will throw some kind of code/check engine light? I'm not an expert or installing this, so will this be something that I can install myself w/o needing further tuning?

Just trying to figure out what I'm getting myself into here...

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Rodney will have to answer the question if any of the stock circuits can be used. I already had a wideband installed so my MS3 uses the output from it. The MS3 can use narrow and wideband sensors so I would think there is a way to use it without an additional gauge.

You need to place a bung downstream before the 3rd CAT for the additional O2 sensor and some wiring for the +12V and lighting. Here are the instructions for the AEM unit.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-4100.pdf

The additional ECU will not throw the code. If the stock ECU detects something it thinks is out of range because of what the MS3 is doing, then it will throw a code. It can be reset with a scan tool as you normally would. Installation is very easy. The hardest part is mounting it.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

With upgraded injectors, you will automatically throw a cel?? Even with precats and o2 defoulers?

Joey tl

yes cant wait im ready

Inaccurate

But only if a person has PCD. That is, if a person still has oem pre-cats, the bung would need to be placed at the top part of the oem pre-cat. And, I would question if the aftermarket sensor would work under such intense heat. Not saying it wouldn't work, but I would investigate first.

pass427

Base maps are ....totally stock base or types ,minor upgrades with oem cats ,complete pcd ,pcd delete exhaust intake ect name your setup with your order and year of vehicle along with auto or manual and maps will be loaded accordingly....

pass427

My reply above on maps ,boston did come down I was waiting on his post but I know he has a drive back home ,wedid get to tune him his car laid down 260whp on oem ecu by we got done he was at 281whp he has some videos but all in all he was happy and did gain hp thru out whole power range as with typesS unlike base models the factory ecu turns the vtec on at 4800-5000rpm unlike base we see a 4200rpm engagement on 2004 model.

pass427

With ecu in if you do throw a code which for n/a application we havent only code would be bank 1 or bank 2 too rich,if a code was thrown,remember to plug ecu is totally do it yourself install just requires a simple plug in of aem jumper Harness and your set ,ill get a video installation up .......

pass427

A wideband is necessary for self tune ms3 will need some sort of a/f feedback to do any sort of tune or adjustment ,the stock 02 are a bit tricky havent gotten to control them yet thru ms3 will be working on that ,but aem wideband works fine ,in all ecu Harness 02 wire is labelled and left for easy acces this way if you have an aem wide band just connect White wire from aem and connect to 02 wire on ms3 Harness and your done ...

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Totally overlooked the fact that people would have precats. Thanks for the correction Inacc!

That would depend on the size of the injector and just how far off the ratio is. With CAT's in place, you'll run the risk of overloading and turning them into a huge plug.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

sorry for noob questions... my goal in the next couple of months is PCD, JPIPE, 2.5 or 3inch exhaust (just resonator and two mufflers).. bored out IM and Runners and possibly a bored out TB.. also I have the AEM V2 Intake... (I got everything in my garage already except the TB)

Question 1) do I need to get wideband sensor to make sure I can tune correctly
Question 2) when getting the ECU all the above will be premapped but I can edit if needed afterwards?
Question 3) how hard would it be to self tune? not saying I will but I am curious (and if I am bored one hot summer day...)

I am also going to be running a second battery in my trunk to power my carputer and stereo, would that affect ECU? I know ECU is for Engine control but it does share the electrical with everything else

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

inaccurate, since i have richies v3 pcd's...what do i need to do once i get the ECU?

thanks, rodney.

ok...so i have a 2007 acura tl type-s (AT) with aemV2 intake, UR lightweight pulley, v3 pcd's (pre-cat deletes), v3 jpipe, xlr8 quad exhaust.

are you able to send me an ECU with a map for the above modifications? will i be able to just hook this up straight out of the box and be good to go? or will i need it to be fine tuned?

i would really like to just be able to install the ECU and call it a day. tune shops around here are outrageous.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Just need to put it before the 3rd cat if you have it installed.

The point is that you need to put it in a stream that is not being altered by any of the converters. The AEM manual states:

A weld-in M18 X 1.5 boss is supplied for sensor installation. Mount the O2 sensor in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensor at least 36 inches or more downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to overheat. On turbocharged engines the UEGO sensor must be installed after the turbo charger, if not, the pressure differential will greatly effect the accuracy of the unit. For accurate readings, the sensor must be mounted before catalytic converters and/or auxiliary air pumps. To prevent collection of liquids between the sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase, the installation angle should be inclined at least 10° towards horizontal with the electrical connection upwards

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

great info. thank you.

i have richies v3 jpipe which eliminates the 3rd cat.

i have no cats whatsoever. what do i do now? where on the exhaust should i place it? does it come with mounting hardware or something? sorry for all the n00b questions...just trying to learn here.

Joey tl

You guys have to talk us exactly whats needed for this ecu. People are getting confused about the o2 sensor or the option of a AEM wideband o2 needed for self tuning. To my understanding it come with a base map which work really good just plug n play but for fine tuning you would need a more accurate o2 sensor hence AEM sensor. I have v3 HFC , v3 jpipe and atlp exhaust and don't want to drill anything for a additional o2 sensor. Please correct me if I misread or I'm not understanding thanks. I just want a plug n play for know.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

so as some might notice I am all over AZine.. first day back from long vacation.. work is secondary to mapping out how I am going to relieve myself of money in 2012

that said.. on the Megasquirt wesbte for the MS3 I noticed this

*Two wideband oxygen sensor input (external controller required)
*(Up to eight widebands supported via external data capture)

So to add to my wideband question up abve.. do I need more than just the sensor itself but the whole instrument? meaning guages as well?

Sorry for all the questions but I am like curious george today

Inaccurate

The position is not super critical. The sensor does have an ideal temperature range although. On the TL, the ideal location (roughly +/- 18 inches) is in this area shown below in the pics.

It comes with a bung. A bung is the heavy thick metal collar that the sensor threads into. The bung is welded onto the exhaust pipe (after drilling a hole approx 3/4" diameter).

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

wow that is interesting. thanks inaccurate.

i might have to hold off on installing this ECU...i was planning on upgrading my exhaust from xlr8's quads to richies dual exhaust.

i don't want to drill into the xlr8 if i am going to end up selling it in a few months.

where does the other end of the sensor plug into? we have to drill into the underbody of the car? i'm confuzzled...

does this ECU come with the bung/sensor?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Aaron bro lets take this one at a time ......NO ECU comes plug and play....this is as close to pnp as it gets.....

Whats happens is you will get a Plug and Play ECU....an ECU with the required harness and a base map for your car with supporting mods which will make you ~20HP/TQ.....you can just drive it like that, there will be NO ISSUES.....

My point is you plug it in and start driving your car is TUNED....

to get it fine tuned to your car you have 2 options:
1> Try doing it yourself OR Get it done professionally....
2> Get the tuning software, wire a wideband to the ECU and call it a day, it will do all the tune for you....

You can get a Bosch Wideband sensor, have an exhaust shop weld a bung for you and wire the sensor yourself...this way you will be fine tuned for less than $200....

I would suggest getting the bung welded just before the v3 jpipe ends and after the primary pipes merge

It has been told several times bro....go ahead and reread the thread....

as i mentioned above, you will get a map which is 90% perfect....to make it "custom" for your car and for the mods you have, you will have to do either of the things i mentioned above....

I would suggest an AFR gauge....I am planning to put something in my car which will display all the gauges on my phone or something like that....

^^^ this....

Thanks for chiming in Tim.....I wanted to PM you this but guess will ask it right here....

I have a true dual exhaust....where do you suggest I put this bung ? Am thinking on the longer primary pipe, just before the muffler....

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i dont think you understand the exhaust positioning....

if you see the bung is installed on the 3rd cat replacement (test pipe) on Inaccurates car....this has nothing to do with upgrading the exhaust....

This goes on ur RichieV3 Jpipe....

if you have gotten under the car and explored, there is a rubber piece (will try to take some pix for you when i get to my car).....you can put the wire thro this if you want....

thats how people wire underbody leds with controls on the inside....

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

thanks. that is reassuring...that i can weld this onto the jpipe. and does the ECU come with this sensor? i just hope there are going to be good instructions sent out with these ECU's...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Honestly its as simple as plug and play seriously....

I think KN_TL or HIspeed have put the measurements of the ECU somewhere and they mentioned that the best place to plug this in is under the drivers seat....all you do is run the harness from there to your stock ECU and boom boom done LOL...

I will be installing this and putting up a DIY

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^understood...BUT does the ECU rodney is shipping come with this necessary sensor? or is it a seperate purchase?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ sorry forgot to answer that....

the ECU does NOT come with the sensor...will have too buy the sensor and the bung outside....

Inaccurate

I agree.


I agree that this would be the best possible given your situation. Please note that you will be reading the AFR from just one bank. If for some odd reason one (or more) of the cylinders in the other (unmonitored) bank was running extremely rich or lean (bad injector as an example), the sensor would not be able to detect it.

Overall, I think that you will be fine with monitoring just one bank. With my data logger, I logged the AFR on the front bank and the rear bank simultaneously. The front bank and rear bank had the identical readings.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

got a link? and just to confirm, this is absolutely necessary to install, yes?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ nice....

might start out with just my front bank and upgrade later....as FCVADI posted, the MS3 can have 2 wideband sensors, might just do both....dont feel like I should be leaving a bank unmonitored....

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

for all my questions one would think I love beating a dead horse...

but.. I was looking at some sites and they promote the innovative LC1 wideband to use with the MS3 ... also the LC1 wideband is setup to go to two guages...

I am guessing need to run the wideband sensor to the MS3 ECU.. but also a sepereate guage to do active reading...

or do we just run to the guage and manually input #s through the tuning software?

in all honesty just looking for an answer on do I run/splice cables to MS3 or not... the answer really wont change my desire to purchase.. I just like beating dead horses... hmm morose huh?

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

Swoosh, cant you but the sensor at your H split? or is that too far? also the sensor itself aint too bad.. saw the AEM for like $90.. its the guage that makes it $200

Inaccurate

I agree. I like the Innovate LC-1. See the qoute below from my NMI thread.