AcuraZine Dallas/Ft.Worth Crew
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Catfisha (11-11-2013)
#9126
Good man, thanks for asking. Just got some slicks for next track season, hoping to see some low 12's in the Cobalt this time around. Previous best on street tires 13.2 @ 111 spinning like crazy. The Legend has been a beast of a daily driver, and I have so many new parts ready to go onto it when I find the time. I'm doing a 4-corner suspension rebuild and converting to a black interior.
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justnspace (11-21-2013)
The following users liked this post:
Hockeyman (11-21-2013)
#9130
FOR REAL?!?! That would be FAWKING AWESOME!!!!
...You actually have tires for different seasons...like people up North?!?
...You actually have tires for different seasons...like people up North?!?
#9132
When it's nice outside again though.... I'd hate to expose the little gorgeous to rain! I CANNOT WAIT!!! As dorky as it sounds, I'd feel like I'm "all that and a bag of chips" while cruisin' around!
#9133
I was considering doing so when I tossed my MXM4s for summer rubber earlier this year. Opted against it when they didn't make it out of summer. Chose to go on the high-performance all-season plan instead with no intent to deviate. Maybe.
Last edited by ASpirational; 11-22-2013 at 05:07 PM.
#9134
So, all this tire seasons talk made me look up my tires. My front two are all-season, but since they're bald, they're no-season. My back two are summer tires! Oh well....
#9138
Time to test my Contis soon! So far I've been impressed with their performance; I've only had experience with all-seasons during my ownership, and the first two sets (Nankang and Kumho Ecsta AST) were awful in the cold and ice/snow. That said, I'm not driving anywhere unless I desperately need to... Hope I don't have to go to school on Monday and Tuesday!
On a side note... Does anybody have a recommendation for getting a key cut and programmed in the DFW area? I have a milled switchblade key for my '05, and I've been putting it off... Vandergriff Acura will charge me $90-99 (forgot exactly how much) to cut and program, and Vandergriff Honda won't touch my key since I didn't buy from them. Any ideas?
On a side note... Does anybody have a recommendation for getting a key cut and programmed in the DFW area? I have a milled switchblade key for my '05, and I've been putting it off... Vandergriff Acura will charge me $90-99 (forgot exactly how much) to cut and program, and Vandergriff Honda won't touch my key since I didn't buy from them. Any ideas?
#9140
Im running some FALKEN 612's, same as the 912's. I guess we shall see how they handle the weather. Its cold, but no ice yet!
Is your 05' a TL? I can talk with my coworker on tuesday about it, he used to work for Acura. There might be a way to do it without the dealer. Some GM keys we have you dont need anything but the key for. Some you have to have a TECH II, and now with the new global platform we have to use GDS II on a PC with a MDI... when someone wants a key(fob) i think FML lol
Time to test my Contis soon! So far I've been impressed with their performance; I've only had experience with all-seasons during my ownership, and the first two sets (Nankang and Kumho Ecsta AST) were awful in the cold and ice/snow. That said, I'm not driving anywhere unless I desperately need to... Hope I don't have to go to school on Monday and Tuesday!
On a side note... Does anybody have a recommendation for getting a key cut and programmed in the DFW area? I have a milled switchblade key for my '05, and I've been putting it off... Vandergriff Acura will charge me $90-99 (forgot exactly how much) to cut and program, and Vandergriff Honda won't touch my key since I didn't buy from them. Any ideas?
On a side note... Does anybody have a recommendation for getting a key cut and programmed in the DFW area? I have a milled switchblade key for my '05, and I've been putting it off... Vandergriff Acura will charge me $90-99 (forgot exactly how much) to cut and program, and Vandergriff Honda won't touch my key since I didn't buy from them. Any ideas?
#9141
Yeah, I have an '05 TL, and recently got a switchblade from the '07-'08 that's already milled to fit my ignition... I just need it cut and programmed!
From what I gathered from the forums, I could just swap the chip from my old key... But I only have one set, and want this new one to be my second functional set. If you could ask your co-worker about it, that would be awesome! TIA.
From what I gathered from the forums, I could just swap the chip from my old key... But I only have one set, and want this new one to be my second functional set. If you could ask your co-worker about it, that would be awesome! TIA.
#9143
I put on my oems last night in case there would be ice on the roads today. Summer tires are useless if there is any ice/snow, plus I want to put the 1000 miles going to Houston twice for the holidays on my oem tires.
#9144
I'd like to get both done at once!
#9145
Yes....they ARE racing slicks!!!
UGH....at least you'll be going down 45...I prefer that highway over most others but particularly 35...what a shitty highway!!!
Douche-bag stealerships!!! How do they know you bought the car from any stealership? I didn't buy mine from one; I got it from a wholesaler.
There's got to be a way around their nickel-and-diming scheme....
I have summer tires on my F14s, and my oem all seasons are sitting in the garage.
I put on my oems last night in case there would be ice on the roads today. Summer tires are useless if there is any ice/snow, plus I want to put the 1000 miles going to Houston twice for the holidays on my oem tires.
I put on my oems last night in case there would be ice on the roads today. Summer tires are useless if there is any ice/snow, plus I want to put the 1000 miles going to Houston twice for the holidays on my oem tires.
Yeah, Vandergriff Acura does cut keys for free, but you have to pay to get it programmed through them too before they cut it for free. Honda won't even touch mine, since I didn't buy it from them... Their way of making more money, I guess.
I'd like to get both done at once!
I'd like to get both done at once!
There's got to be a way around their nickel-and-diming scheme....
#9146
Haha, I guess my post was a little mis-worded! Vandergriff Honda won't do it for me, since I didn't buy the KEY through them. Their policy is a little weird, in that they expect you to buy the blank, cut, and program it with them... I actually bought the damn car from VG Honda, too!
VG Acura is a little better regarding cutting and programming... But I'm hoping NBP_BALLER will be able to save the day for me!
VG Acura is a little better regarding cutting and programming... But I'm hoping NBP_BALLER will be able to save the day for me!
#9147
Haha, I guess my post was a little mis-worded! Vandergriff Honda won't do it for me, since I didn't buy the KEY through them. Their policy is a little weird, in that they expect you to buy the blank, cut, and program it with them... I actually bought the damn car from VG Honda, too!
VG Acura is a little better regarding cutting and programming... But I'm hoping NBP_BALLER will be able to save the day for me!
VG Acura is a little better regarding cutting and programming... But I'm hoping NBP_BALLER will be able to save the day for me!
Come on, Travis....
#9148
Haha, I guess my post was a little mis-worded! Vandergriff Honda won't do it for me, since I didn't buy the KEY through them. Their policy is a little weird, in that they expect you to buy the blank, cut, and program it with them... I actually bought the damn car from VG Honda, too!
VG Acura is a little better regarding cutting and programming... But I'm hoping NBP_BALLER will be able to save the day for me!
VG Acura is a little better regarding cutting and programming... But I'm hoping NBP_BALLER will be able to save the day for me!
#9149
Thanks for asking!
Looks like my best bet will be to either luck into a locksmith who can work with Acura keys in the DF-dub, or just go ahead and get it cut/programmed at the dealer.
I've Googled as well as I could, but have found no results regarding DFW locations that can do it for me inexpensively, and the only viable method on AZ is sending both my original key and new one to Heeltoe so they can switch programming chips... Which would put me out for about a week, not to mention that if my key gets lost, I'm screwed. Have no idea if there's a way to self-program, and if there is, nobody on AZ has found it yet!
Thanks though! The search continues for me!
Looks like my best bet will be to either luck into a locksmith who can work with Acura keys in the DF-dub, or just go ahead and get it cut/programmed at the dealer.
I've Googled as well as I could, but have found no results regarding DFW locations that can do it for me inexpensively, and the only viable method on AZ is sending both my original key and new one to Heeltoe so they can switch programming chips... Which would put me out for about a week, not to mention that if my key gets lost, I'm screwed. Have no idea if there's a way to self-program, and if there is, nobody on AZ has found it yet!
Thanks though! The search continues for me!
#9150
I don't think there is a chip inside it... my key shank had a "V" on it but i dont think there is a chip in it. Everything in the fob is programmed through the circuit board inside. I don't think they can "swap" chips...
#9151
You can program the fob this way
http://www.ehow.com/how_6113377_prog...ess-entry.html
You cant program the key itself to start the car though. You need HDS, this is what i've found
"Take the key to any locksmith to have the key cut to match your existing key. An automotive locksmith will have to program your vehicle to accept the new key so it will start your engine."
http://www.ehow.com/how_6113377_prog...ess-entry.html
You cant program the key itself to start the car though. You need HDS, this is what i've found
"Take the key to any locksmith to have the key cut to match your existing key. An automotive locksmith will have to program your vehicle to accept the new key so it will start your engine."
#9152
NBP, thanks for going above and beyond to try and help me out, and for also sending me a PM with more info! I'll try and clarify myself below, and also post my findings for any parties interested in trying this in the future.
I think I've been using the wrong terminology the entire time and confusing you! What I meant by "programming" from my earlier posts, was the programming of the so-called "immobilizer chip", not the buttons on the fob. I'm pretty sure I can do the fob programming on my own, and your link above helps with that!
The part I have trouble with is under Step 2 of the FAQ in this link: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...roductid=64771.
Existing options are to have Heeltoe or somebody else swap the immobilizer chip - which I don't really want to sacrifice my existing key to get my new key to work, nor do I really want to pry anything apart, since the HT FAQ says that it can be easily damaged - or to find somebody with an HDS scanner, like NBP said. I assume that dealerships and MAYBE some locksmiths have it, and there's a few going for about $650.00 on eBay (definitely not going that route).
In summary... I'm hoping to luck into a locksmith who can help me out for less than my local dealership! Unless somebody has access to a HDS scanner.
Thanks for all the help NBP, and I've learned a ton from this experience! If you have any additional insights, I'll be happy to hear!
I think I've been using the wrong terminology the entire time and confusing you! What I meant by "programming" from my earlier posts, was the programming of the so-called "immobilizer chip", not the buttons on the fob. I'm pretty sure I can do the fob programming on my own, and your link above helps with that!
The part I have trouble with is under Step 2 of the FAQ in this link: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...roductid=64771.
Existing options are to have Heeltoe or somebody else swap the immobilizer chip - which I don't really want to sacrifice my existing key to get my new key to work, nor do I really want to pry anything apart, since the HT FAQ says that it can be easily damaged - or to find somebody with an HDS scanner, like NBP said. I assume that dealerships and MAYBE some locksmiths have it, and there's a few going for about $650.00 on eBay (definitely not going that route).
In summary... I'm hoping to luck into a locksmith who can help me out for less than my local dealership! Unless somebody has access to a HDS scanner.
Thanks for all the help NBP, and I've learned a ton from this experience! If you have any additional insights, I'll be happy to hear!
You cant program the key itself to start the car though. You need HDS, this is what i've found
"Take the key to any locksmith to have the key cut to match your existing key. An automotive locksmith will have to program your vehicle to accept the new key so it will start your engine."
"Take the key to any locksmith to have the key cut to match your existing key. An automotive locksmith will have to program your vehicle to accept the new key so it will start your engine."
#9153
Saw a guy crash into a curb and then drive off this morning. I'm glad I made my commute at 6am when there was nobody on the roads. I was definitely the slowest car out there, creeping up to every stop in hopes the guy behind me wouldn't hit me.
Stay safe friends.
Stay safe friends.
#9154
I'm about to make my commute, but in my truck. The TL is sleeping at home in the garage all clean n shit lol No hard feelings if you crash into my 1986 GMC, my part time how. Haha Ppl don't judge time and how slick it is to stop. My FAM is from Minnesota so this is nothing to me. Everyone else though. I'm scared of you lol
#9155
NBP, thanks for going above and beyond to try and help me out, and for also sending me a PM with more info! I'll try and clarify myself below, and also post my findings for any parties interested in trying this in the future.
I think I've been using the wrong terminology the entire time and confusing you! What I meant by "programming" from my earlier posts, was the programming of the so-called "immobilizer chip", not the buttons on the fob. I'm pretty sure I can do the fob programming on my own, and your link above helps with that!
The part I have trouble with is under Step 2 of the FAQ in this link: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...roductid=64771.
Existing options are to have Heeltoe or somebody else swap the immobilizer chip - which I don't really want to sacrifice my existing key to get my new key to work, nor do I really want to pry anything apart, since the HT FAQ says that it can be easily damaged - or to find somebody with an HDS scanner, like NBP said. I assume that dealerships and MAYBE some locksmiths have it, and there's a few going for about $650.00 on eBay (definitely not going that route).
In summary... I'm hoping to luck into a locksmith who can help me out for less than my local dealership! Unless somebody has access to a HDS scanner.
Thanks for all the help NBP, and I've learned a ton from this experience! If you have any additional insights, I'll be happy to hear!
I think I've been using the wrong terminology the entire time and confusing you! What I meant by "programming" from my earlier posts, was the programming of the so-called "immobilizer chip", not the buttons on the fob. I'm pretty sure I can do the fob programming on my own, and your link above helps with that!
The part I have trouble with is under Step 2 of the FAQ in this link: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...roductid=64771.
Existing options are to have Heeltoe or somebody else swap the immobilizer chip - which I don't really want to sacrifice my existing key to get my new key to work, nor do I really want to pry anything apart, since the HT FAQ says that it can be easily damaged - or to find somebody with an HDS scanner, like NBP said. I assume that dealerships and MAYBE some locksmiths have it, and there's a few going for about $650.00 on eBay (definitely not going that route).
In summary... I'm hoping to luck into a locksmith who can help me out for less than my local dealership! Unless somebody has access to a HDS scanner.
Thanks for all the help NBP, and I've learned a ton from this experience! If you have any additional insights, I'll be happy to hear!
I've had them cut/program keys practically for free for me for 3 or 4 cars over the years. Definitely a worthwhile service to have.
http://ww1.texas.aaa.com/en-tx/becom...omparison.aspx
#9159
I made a road-scouting run yesterday, as I strongly suspect that my employer will try to resume operations Monday irrespective of whether any of this ice lifts. Saw lots of disrespect for the conditions, but one of the most grievous offenses came on my way back home. I was behind a 2G Mazda 3 that was operating prudently for conditions, yet that didn't prevent this aftermath. . .
Whether he slammed on the brakes or tried to conserve momentum, the F-150 driver plowed past his stop sign into the intersection at about 30 and T-boned the 3 on the passenger side, sending it spinning from the far right lane into the median. I would've also been involved if I'd maintained a typical DFW Metroplex following distance; if I didn't go for my own merry-go-round ride across North Beach, I'd have likely returned the gesture, albeit futilely, to the pickup. And I'd have been pissed since 2G CL/TL values are right on the threshold of total fodder.
Moral of the story? Keep it at the house if you don't have to be out there. Even if you're playing it safe out there, others aren't. That's always the case, but these conditions seriously hamper your recourse against foolishness.
Whether he slammed on the brakes or tried to conserve momentum, the F-150 driver plowed past his stop sign into the intersection at about 30 and T-boned the 3 on the passenger side, sending it spinning from the far right lane into the median. I would've also been involved if I'd maintained a typical DFW Metroplex following distance; if I didn't go for my own merry-go-round ride across North Beach, I'd have likely returned the gesture, albeit futilely, to the pickup. And I'd have been pissed since 2G CL/TL values are right on the threshold of total fodder.
Moral of the story? Keep it at the house if you don't have to be out there. Even if you're playing it safe out there, others aren't. That's always the case, but these conditions seriously hamper your recourse against foolishness.
Last edited by ASpirational; 12-08-2013 at 07:19 AM.
#9160
The Legend apparently didn't like the cold and is down for the count. Might be time to throw a 3.5L into her. Now I have to drive the Cobalt on these awful roads, plowing a bunch of snow since it's slammed on coils.