Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Umm, I made ONE post that one of the mounts was taller and I wrote If I Remember Correctly it's the front one. When Mike asked me about he said that Tim told him it was the rear one so I said go by what Tim said.

RUF87

Do you have all 3 mounts? If so, I recommend 1/4 longer bolts for the 3 that bolt the side mount to the chassis. And the one bolt for the rear that bolts to the rear mount bracket.

Ruf

RUF87

As thee saying goes, "if you said it once, you said it a thousand times"

Ruf

g1underground

iTrader: (1)

Now does this include those with 6speeds, and how long will Tim wait for that information? I most likely won't be able to install mine til May or so.

CG2PROJECT

front

side

rear


Got them in professionally, no problems. Just used longer bolts on the side, and bam, it works.

RUF87

Ouch!

Glad to hear it. In hindsight, worth the money spent.

Ruf

Mike

did you get these installed on the 31st or today?

CG2PROJECT

31st. I just didn't post pictures till now.

Mike

great pics!

yunginTL

How do you know what size bolts? because doesn't it just use the bolts that are being used on the stock engine mount?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

My side doesn't fit. I'll be calling innovative on Monday.

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

no because the innovative mount is thicker thus requiring the 1/4" longer bolt. you will need 3 new bolts, 10mm 1.25p and 30mm long.

TitaniumCLS6MT

I received one of the bad side mounts, so I'll be contacting Innovative as well.

I installed the rear mount myself. It took me about 7 hours. The problem areas were: (1)stupid fuse box bracket with one clip & one bolt. I had to destroy the clip & bent the bracket in the process. Then I didn't have a 10mm box-end open-end wrench so had to borrow one from the neighbor. (2) oem thru-bolt: after about 20 minutes trying to get an angle on this mother, finally torqued it loose with a cheater bar & busted my finger. (3) removing oem mount from engine compartment (4) aligning engine with new innovative mount. (5) stripped bolt head due to crappy angles with socket

There's some extra vibration in the dash -expected- dont care. I only have the rear installed so I'm not getting the full effect yet. The handling is sharper tho -nice.

RUF87

Okay, getting serious here.

I needed someone else to help look at the problem from different angles. Especially someone I trust, and can get behind the wheel and do as they're instructed . . . that leaves my wife out.

Anyway, I got with my little brother and we played around with it and that's when we noticed . . . the engine it lifting up from the front at least 1 1/2" to 2". I was like

We were basically powerbraking to about 2200 RPM and the front of the engine was coming way up. Like it still had the OEM mounts in it. I was very surprised to see the front mount giving some much. It was compressing the heck out if the top part of the front mount.

I then looked at the way the engine was moving up, and saw that part of the energy from that movement was being transferred back to the rear mount. I also know the excessive vibration and sound comes during initial acceleration (load/torque) and WOT. Okay, so what does this mean? I don't know for certain, but here is the theory we came up with.

When under load, the front of the engine lifts up. This energy is then transferred back to the rear mount, compressing it, essentially making the rear mount transfer more energy, in the form of engine harmonics (sound and vibrations). Since the rear and front mounts are both being compressed, making it harder, or say, reducing the effectiveness of the bushing to it's full job. In addition, the rear mount sits on a cross frame that is right below the firewall and dashboard. Basically, this effect is creating increased vibrations and sound through both front and rear mounts, but mostly to the rear. That's why as the load/torque is reduced and the stress on the mounts is reduced, so then is the sound and vibrations.

This makes further sense when you look at the condition of my mounts. The front was the worst, totally ripped apart. Next was the side, which was also badly damaged. Last was the rear, which was leaking oil, but not torn or anything like that.

Well, how do we test this theory? I will talk to Excelerate and Innovative to review it, and then propose some testing. The initial thought is that we need an even harder mount up front to reduce how much the engine lifts up, thereby reducing the stress on the rear mount. While the front will add some initial vibration at idle, I don't know if it will be that much worse. And I don't have any problems with how it idles now . . . in neutral or gear.

I also would like to test this with an OEM mount in the rear. I don't believe the rear would have been ruined if the front was up to the job. This set up would also be to the liking of those that really want to retain as much of a OEM feel as possible.

As for the side mount, I would like to run the Innovative mount with either approach, but worst case I will use one with the DIY polyurethane approach.

Thoughts? I know it sounds weird, but when you see how much the engine still jumps up, you'll be as surprised as I was.

It's obvious that these mounts were not designed to take a lot of power and type of driving many of us do.

Ruf

Mike

guys, the group buy has run its course. i'm going to close this so we can concentrate on getting the side mount and possibly other issues resolved. please post in the cl forum thread. pm me if you'd like this thread reopened.