Innovative Mounts Groupbuy: 2nd Gen Acura CL/TL
01-28-2008, 12:51 AM
#401
Originally Posted by RUF87
Front Mount Installation: Note, I have headers, so OEM exhaust will be a bit different as I expect the heatshield will make access harder.
Well, as Silvaccordex01 stated, this one is no cakewalk, but with the right tools and technique, it wasn't that bad. As noted above, because there were multiple options on how to get this bad boy out, I played around with the angles and spacing. Anyway, here's the list of tools you'll need.
- extension bars - about 2 feet worth is what I used for taking out the bottom 4 bolts that hold the mount to the frame, and the 4 12mm bolts that hold the motor mount sub components together, I'll explain this later.
12mm socket - see note above
14mm socket
19mm socket
swivel adaptor
14mm box end wrench
magnetic tool retriever
Okay to start, in my case I needed to jack the car up and put it on the lowest setting of the jack stands . . . because I can't even get a low profile jack under the front end . . . yes, it sits too low
so, we're on jack stands and the jack under the tranny ready to go.
Next I unbolted the big 19 nut holding the top of the mount to the bracket. Then I took out the 4 bolts holding the mount to the frame. The bolt on the top-left, when looking down on the mount, can be accessed by putting a short 14mm socket with a 3/8" swivel on the bolt head from underneath. Then from the top you can connect extension bar to it and take it easily out. While you are down there, disconnect that vaccum line and plug it.
Then take out the 4 12mm bolts that hold the steel mount retainer to the bottom half of the mount. Here's why I did this. When it comes time to removing the mount, you will need to pivot the mount with the bracket, and taking out these bolts gave me just enough extra to play with and slip the mount out. Note, once loose, I needed to hold the nut on the bottom with my fingers to keep the bolt from spinning.
Now for the fun part. To give you the play space to pivot the mount out, you need to remove 2 of the 3 aluminum bracket bolts that hold the big bolt on the mount to the motor. The 2 you remove are, when facing the engine, are the right bolt, and the top bolt. The left bolt (closest to the exhaust) just needs to be loosened. This allows you to rotate the bracket, and we'll get to that point in a minute. Note, the bracket has a little hook arm the is used to help center the mount and bracket when aligning them. The new mount has a steel nipple for this purpose. It'll also help you to know which way the new mount needs to face.
All this is not hard, but I couldn't get a socket on the top bolt because the OEM blocks it, so I used a 14mm box end wrench. And because the way the bolt is set, you can only make small turns, and that take some time and patience.
Good news is that the new mount make putting it back in a breeze. 
Now to actually remove or even loosen these bolts, I found I needed to jack the motor up, which didn't make sense and I didn't want to try and figure out why, and just did it since it worked. Okay, once you get the 2 bolts out, and the left one lose you're ready to take this beast out. Note: before you can do this next part, you need to make sure you can wiggle the aluminum bracket easily.
Okay, now rotate/swing the bracket towards the left (toward the exhaust) and at the same time pivot the motor mount to the left as well. In doing so you can jiggle the mount and the clearance needed to get the bolt to slip out of the bracket. It's out and now just work it up and out between the radiator hoses. Many what a fish!
Okay, now everything from hear on out is easier . . . much so I think.
The first thing I did was position the mount over the 4 subframe holes and install the 4 bolts. Note, the plates on the new mounts aren't thicker than the OEM, so the old bolts work just find. Next remove the large bolt from the top of the mount. Then swing the bracket back in to place and put the 2 bolts back in and tighten them. Notice that you can now get a socket on that middle bolt and it's done in seconds.
Once the bracket and mount are tight, you'll notice that mount will pivot. Also notice the steel nipple mentioned above. Once you have them in general alignment, I needed to jack the motor up until the bracket and mount came in to alignment allowing me to start the big bolt. Once I got that tightened down, I rechecked all the bolts to make sure I tightened them.
Did you remember to plug the vacuum line?
Done . . . as I said, once I figured out the best process, it wasn't that bad. Here are some pics of the new and old. Sorry, didn't think of taking any before shots.
New mount installed
OEM POS
Ruf
Well, as Silvaccordex01 stated, this one is no cakewalk, but with the right tools and technique, it wasn't that bad. As noted above, because there were multiple options on how to get this bad boy out, I played around with the angles and spacing. Anyway, here's the list of tools you'll need.
- extension bars - about 2 feet worth is what I used for taking out the bottom 4 bolts that hold the mount to the frame, and the 4 12mm bolts that hold the motor mount sub components together, I'll explain this later.
12mm socket - see note above
14mm socket
19mm socket
swivel adaptor
14mm box end wrench
magnetic tool retriever
Okay to start, in my case I needed to jack the car up and put it on the lowest setting of the jack stands . . . because I can't even get a low profile jack under the front end . . . yes, it sits too low
so, we're on jack stands and the jack under the tranny ready to go.Next I unbolted the big 19 nut holding the top of the mount to the bracket. Then I took out the 4 bolts holding the mount to the frame. The bolt on the top-left, when looking down on the mount, can be accessed by putting a short 14mm socket with a 3/8" swivel on the bolt head from underneath. Then from the top you can connect extension bar to it and take it easily out. While you are down there, disconnect that vaccum line and plug it.
Then take out the 4 12mm bolts that hold the steel mount retainer to the bottom half of the mount. Here's why I did this. When it comes time to removing the mount, you will need to pivot the mount with the bracket, and taking out these bolts gave me just enough extra to play with and slip the mount out. Note, once loose, I needed to hold the nut on the bottom with my fingers to keep the bolt from spinning.
Now for the fun part. To give you the play space to pivot the mount out, you need to remove 2 of the 3 aluminum bracket bolts that hold the big bolt on the mount to the motor. The 2 you remove are, when facing the engine, are the right bolt, and the top bolt. The left bolt (closest to the exhaust) just needs to be loosened. This allows you to rotate the bracket, and we'll get to that point in a minute. Note, the bracket has a little hook arm the is used to help center the mount and bracket when aligning them. The new mount has a steel nipple for this purpose. It'll also help you to know which way the new mount needs to face.
All this is not hard, but I couldn't get a socket on the top bolt because the OEM blocks it, so I used a 14mm box end wrench. And because the way the bolt is set, you can only make small turns, and that take some time and patience.
Good news is that the new mount make putting it back in a breeze. Now to actually remove or even loosen these bolts, I found I needed to jack the motor up, which didn't make sense and I didn't want to try and figure out why, and just did it since it worked. Okay, once you get the 2 bolts out, and the left one lose you're ready to take this beast out. Note: before you can do this next part, you need to make sure you can wiggle the aluminum bracket easily.
Okay, now rotate/swing the bracket towards the left (toward the exhaust) and at the same time pivot the motor mount to the left as well. In doing so you can jiggle the mount and the clearance needed to get the bolt to slip out of the bracket. It's out and now just work it up and out between the radiator hoses. Many what a fish!
Okay, now everything from hear on out is easier . . . much so I think.
The first thing I did was position the mount over the 4 subframe holes and install the 4 bolts. Note, the plates on the new mounts aren't thicker than the OEM, so the old bolts work just find. Next remove the large bolt from the top of the mount. Then swing the bracket back in to place and put the 2 bolts back in and tighten them. Notice that you can now get a socket on that middle bolt and it's done in seconds.
Once the bracket and mount are tight, you'll notice that mount will pivot. Also notice the steel nipple mentioned above. Once you have them in general alignment, I needed to jack the motor up until the bracket and mount came in to alignment allowing me to start the big bolt. Once I got that tightened down, I rechecked all the bolts to make sure I tightened them.
Did you remember to plug the vacuum line?
Done . . . as I said, once I figured out the best process, it wasn't that bad. Here are some pics of the new and old. Sorry, didn't think of taking any before shots.
New mount installed
OEM POS
Ruf
Man your mounts were toast. Mine were recently replaced so they were still fine. Also, it looks like you forgot to tighten the center bolt on the innovative mount! Dont forget to tighten that! That bolt holts your mount in place so if that bolt comes out you may end up with engine damage. Man i wish my install only took 45 minutes. Took me 4 hours. I didnt have a wobble extension for that upper left mount bolt so that bitch took forever to get out. It was on SUPER tight as well so that made it even harder. If it wasnt for that bolt and one of the ones on the mount bracket i could have had it done faster. Also the nipple on my mount wont even stay in place. It was shipped in a bag and falls right through the hole.
01-28-2008, 08:11 AM
#402
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
Man your mounts were toast. Mine were recently replaced so they were still fine. Also, it looks like you forgot to tighten the center bolt on the innovative mount! Dont forget to tighten that! That bolt holts your mount in place so if that bolt comes out you may end up with engine damage. Man i wish my install only took 45 minutes. Took me 4 hours. I didnt have a wobble extension for that upper left mount bolt so that bitch took forever to get out. It was on SUPER tight as well so that made it even harder. If it wasnt for that bolt and one of the ones on the mount bracket i could have had it done faster. Also the nipple on my mount wont even stay in place. It was shipped in a bag and falls right through the hole.
I did tighten the new center mount bolt, but I do want to get a lock washer for it just so it doesn't back out for some strange reason.
Yeah, those 3 aluminum bracket bolts were very very tight. I think they were froze on, sort of like spark plugs do . . . a common problem with bolts that go in to aluminum. As I stated I almost gave up getting the right one out.
As for the nipple, you can use some silicon and put a dab on the bottom of the nipple and insert it from the top. That way you won't see any silicon as it will ooze out the bottom . . . if it does.
Ruf
01-28-2008, 09:57 AM
#404
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by RUF87
Can we get one of the Mods to move the posts about installation to a new thread for Installing the Innovative Mounts?
That way we won't clutter up Josh's thread. Thoughts?
Ruf
That way we won't clutter up Josh's thread. Thoughts?
Ruf
your mounts were jacked! how many miles do you have on your car?
01-28-2008, 10:25 AM
#405
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
I'll do the side mount & pay to get the other 2 done. I'm too busy to tackle the whole thing.
01-28-2008, 11:42 AM
#406
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by Mike
we can't move individual posts...it is beyond our mod powers. you'll have to create a new thread.
your mounts were jacked! how many miles do you have on your car?
your mounts were jacked! how many miles do you have on your car?
Ruf
01-28-2008, 02:18 PM
#408
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by Mike
note to self: do not buy mark's car!!
tcm, how much have you been quoted?
tcm, how much have you been quoted?
My friend's mechanic was going to do it for like $100, but he doesn't work with them anymore. Tomorrow his friend from AR Racing is going to take a look at my car. He says hes going to do it for way less than $300. Incase that doesn't fall through I want to have other options.
.
01-28-2008, 03:12 PM
#411
Originally Posted by TCM 01 CL-S
$300 and up before taxes.
My friend's mechanic was going to do it for like $100, but he doesn't work with them anymore. Tomorrow his friend from AR Racing is going to take a look at my car. He says hes going to do it for way less than $300. Incase that doesn't fall through I want to have other options.
My friend's mechanic was going to do it for like $100, but he doesn't work with them anymore. Tomorrow his friend from AR Racing is going to take a look at my car. He says hes going to do it for way less than $300. Incase that doesn't fall through I want to have other options.
Also call over to P2R they will install them I'm sure. Not sure how much though.
Maybe we can both go there & get a group rate at the same time. I need to look at your ECM setup anyway.
I don't have my mounts yet though.
01-28-2008, 05:23 PM
#412
Man where have you been getting quotes for 125.00? Everywhere ive called wants 220 and above and thats just for the rear mount! For all 3 close to 600 so im glad i did the other 2 myself!
01-28-2008, 05:36 PM
#413
Ok I got some answers today and I'm pleased with the outcome. First I do want to thank Innovative for a top notch product and supporting the J series platform. However, I was disappointed with the shipping times on some of these orders. I spoken to my rep since we are still missing about 5 orders:
Rehmat, Fuzzy, Bonlie, distortedolskool and CleanCL.
Rehmat, Fuzzy and Bonlie are 6 speed setups and they are waiting on a few pieces to finish your orders. They should ship by Wednesday.
Distorted and CleanCL both volunteered mounts and neither of them got their kits yet. Both your kits will be shipping in the next day or two and we have worked with Innovative to come to a positive outcome. Your kits will be free of charge since you both experienced unnecessary delays. I will be refunding your partial payments (since you paid for the other 2 mounts) and I will get you tracking info in the next day or so.
All the rest of the orders (east coast orders) wil be shipping tomorrow from me, including those who recently placed orders with me.
Rehmat, Fuzzy, Bonlie, distortedolskool and CleanCL.
Rehmat, Fuzzy and Bonlie are 6 speed setups and they are waiting on a few pieces to finish your orders. They should ship by Wednesday.
Distorted and CleanCL both volunteered mounts and neither of them got their kits yet. Both your kits will be shipping in the next day or two and we have worked with Innovative to come to a positive outcome. Your kits will be free of charge since you both experienced unnecessary delays. I will be refunding your partial payments (since you paid for the other 2 mounts) and I will get you tracking info in the next day or so.
All the rest of the orders (east coast orders) wil be shipping tomorrow from me, including those who recently placed orders with me.
01-28-2008, 06:59 PM
#414
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
I know a engine tech at Pompano Honda that may do it.
Also call over to P2R they will install them I'm sure. Not sure how much though.
Maybe we can both go there & get a group rate at the same time. I need to look at your ECM setup anyway.
I don't have my mounts yet though.
Also call over to P2R they will install them I'm sure. Not sure how much though.
Maybe we can both go there & get a group rate at the same time. I need to look at your ECM setup anyway.
I don't have my mounts yet though.
01-28-2008, 07:52 PM
#415
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by TCM 01 CL-S
$300 and up before taxes.
My friend's mechanic was going to do it for like $100, but he doesn't work with them anymore. Tomorrow his friend from AR Racing is going to take a look at my car. He says hes going to do it for way less than $300. Incase that doesn't fall through I want to have other options.
My friend's mechanic was going to do it for like $100, but he doesn't work with them anymore. Tomorrow his friend from AR Racing is going to take a look at my car. He says hes going to do it for way less than $300. Incase that doesn't fall through I want to have other options.
My
is that anyone with a shop should be able to do this in about 2 hrs.So if they're doing this on the side, $300 is high. I could see $200, but $175 is more realistic in my mind. The side mount is pretty easy, and with access to an air wrachet the front mount is as well. The rear may be a pain, but haven't jumped on that one yet. I figure $100 for the side and front, and $75 for the rear, worst case $100. If you're looking to make some money at it.
Shoot, come to the next DFW mod meet and we can talk about steaks and beer as payment.
Ruf
01-28-2008, 07:55 PM
#416
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by Mike
note to self: do not buy mark's car!!
tcm, how much have you been quoted? talked a shop and they want $315 and they said it's a 5 hour job.
tcm, how much have you been quoted? talked a shop and they want $315 and they said it's a 5 hour job.
I don't know how this car will hold up, but with proper maintence I've got a lot of miles out of my previous cars. As for 5 hour job, shoot I did the side and front in 2 1/2, and that's counting the time I took playing around with things. Doing it again I could do them in less than 1 1/2hrs with shop tools. They're just going by the book.
Ruf
01-28-2008, 08:32 PM
#419
Originally Posted by RUF87
I only have the side and front installed at this point, but considering mine OEMs were total wasted, I could feel an immediate improvement. If didn't know what was wrong with my car, and someone replaced these mount without my knowing it, I would have thought that they installed a shift kit in the tranny. I could actually feel the shifts from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd. Those OEM mounts isolated the feel of the engine that I could never feel it with good mounts.
I can't wait to take it to the track in the spring and see how it runs. I'm hoping it'll nock a tenth or 2 off my 1/4 times.
And to see if and how much the wheel hop is reduced.
As for daily drive ability, I could feel very light vibrations through the steering wheel. I don't know how much of that is due to some of the other mods, but it's very slight. Some people may not even notice it at all. I also think, as you get some miles on these mounts, I think they will soften up a bit. With that said, I wouldn't recommend the stiffer bushings unless you were a serious hot rodder . . .
Stay tuned . . . .
Ruf
I can't wait to take it to the track in the spring and see how it runs. I'm hoping it'll nock a tenth or 2 off my 1/4 times.
And to see if and how much the wheel hop is reduced.As for daily drive ability, I could feel very light vibrations through the steering wheel. I don't know how much of that is due to some of the other mods, but it's very slight. Some people may not even notice it at all. I also think, as you get some miles on these mounts, I think they will soften up a bit. With that said, I wouldn't recommend the stiffer bushings unless you were a serious hot rodder . . .
Stay tuned . . . .
Ruf
My engine is already vibrating the crap outa my gas pedal & steering wheel. I thought it was my wheels out of balance - but ruled that one out after a rebalance. Hopefully the vibrations decrease some with the mounts install. I'll see...
01-28-2008, 10:39 PM
#420
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by TitaniumCLS6MT
My engine is already vibrating the crap outa my gas pedal & steering wheel. I thought it was my wheels out of balance - but ruled that one out after a rebalance. Hopefully the vibrations decrease some with the mounts install. I'll see...
I know what you mean . . . I thought I was going to ruin something and after seeing the mounts, I'm still a bit worried I may have.
As for the vibrations with the Innovative Mounts, you can barely feel something through the steering wheel . . . it's mostly engine harmonics, but very minor . . unless you're someone that buys a Lexus over a BMW because the Lexus is smoother, then you might complain.
Ruf
01-28-2008, 11:35 PM
#422
Originally Posted by RUF87
I know what you mean . . . I thought I was going to ruin something and after seeing the mounts, I'm still a bit worried I may have.
As for the vibrations with the Innovative Mounts, you can barely feel something through the steering wheel . . . it's mostly engine harmonics, but very minor . . unless you're someone that buys a Lexus over a BMW because the Lexus is smoother, then you might complain.
Ruf
As for the vibrations with the Innovative Mounts, you can barely feel something through the steering wheel . . . it's mostly engine harmonics, but very minor . . unless you're someone that buys a Lexus over a BMW because the Lexus is smoother, then you might complain.
Ruf
01-29-2008, 04:32 AM
#424
Originally Posted by distortedolskool
nice write up RUF. the rear is a bitch to get out. here is my removal experience to help get y'all started.
there is not much room to swing a ratchet and the bolts into the frame are tight. have plenty of PB Blaster and be prepared to spend tons of time laid across the hard motor. i had to remove the top sway and the fuse box at the top left of the engine compartment to make room for my arms and to turn he ratchet. the rear engine damper will also need to be removed to gain access to one of the mount bolts. upon pulling the heavy oem mount out you will need to bend the heater hose bracket to make room to swing that monster out.
there is not much room to swing a ratchet and the bolts into the frame are tight. have plenty of PB Blaster and be prepared to spend tons of time laid across the hard motor. i had to remove the top sway and the fuse box at the top left of the engine compartment to make room for my arms and to turn he ratchet. the rear engine damper will also need to be removed to gain access to one of the mount bolts. upon pulling the heavy oem mount out you will need to bend the heater hose bracket to make room to swing that monster out.
01-29-2008, 08:58 AM
#425
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
I think i may try to attempt this install tomorrow because everyone around here wants 200.00 to do one mount which is ridiculous. Few questions though. Diid you have to jack up the engine or tranny at all to remove this mount? Is most of the work above the engine or underneath the car? Did you have to use any special tools to remove this such as swivel sockets or anything? How long did it take you to remove it?
Anyway, I'll make sure I capture that detail on the rear and hopefully I'll discover a quick and easier way to do it.
BTW, I'm noticing the vibrations less. Maybe I'm getting use to it. I've not tested the wheel hop issue yet. The roads have been wet or damp, plus I should wait until the rear is in.
Ruf
01-29-2008, 11:52 AM
#426
Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
I think i may try to attempt this install tomorrow because everyone around here wants 200.00 to do one mount which is ridiculous. Few questions though. Diid you have to jack up the engine or tranny at all to remove this mount? Is most of the work above the engine or underneath the car? Did you have to use any special tools to remove this such as swivel sockets or anything? How long did it take you to remove it?
I laid across the motor and reached down behind the motor. the bottom plate 4 bolts have to be unbolted from the top.
I didn't use any swivel attachments even though i have all that fun stuff. i did unbolt the small black fuse box and drop it down out of the way to make more arm room. basically it is really tight and you only get a few ratchet clicks plus you have a bad angle for apply lots of leverage. i bought an air ratchet now to i'm sure it would of been a whole lot easier.
it took me around 4 hours to get the entire assembly out. keep in mind it weighs 9 pounds and the other tricky part was figuring out how to spin it and pull it out the left side.
01-29-2008, 12:00 PM
#427
From my past experience with mounts...
If I was to install them I would put the car on a ramp get my 2 floor jacks out then support the engine/trans with a blocks of wood. Then unbolt the mounts. This way when you go to reinstall everything should still be lined up.
For the side mount you need to do something like this. I think that's why you guys are finding the holes don't line up right. You need something to prevent the engine weight from sagging once the old mount gets taken off. May also be why you think you need longer bolts. You really shouldn't from what I see & having the stock mount out once already.
If I was to install them I would put the car on a ramp get my 2 floor jacks out then support the engine/trans with a blocks of wood. Then unbolt the mounts. This way when you go to reinstall everything should still be lined up.
For the side mount you need to do something like this. I think that's why you guys are finding the holes don't line up right. You need something to prevent the engine weight from sagging once the old mount gets taken off. May also be why you think you need longer bolts. You really shouldn't from what I see & having the stock mount out once already.
01-29-2008, 05:42 PM
#428
Senior Moderator
san diego peeps G Win auto on miramar road will do it for $195 for all 3. They've done work on my co-workers car for a few years and he's been very satisfied w/them.
01-29-2008, 10:33 PM
#429
Uses turn signals in my
I got mine installed today. My stock rear one was broken. The vibrations at idle are definitely increased w/ the new mounts, but it doesn't bother me much. The car drives so much better, and the feels solidly planted to the ground at WOT. I'd definitely buy these again!
Fuzzy, we can meet up sometime within the next couple of weeks if you would like to see the apexi and etc. Just let me know when you can.
Fuzzy, we can meet up sometime within the next couple of weeks if you would like to see the apexi and etc. Just let me know when you can.
01-29-2008, 10:51 PM
#430
I looked at doing mine today, but it definatly is one i dont think i want to dive into. For one its super cold and rainy out and i just dont feel like working outside right now. Yes i do have a garage, but its only a single sized apartment garage with not much room and no heat. Plus i just dont want to get into the middle of it and get stuck and than have to have my car towed in because i cant finish it. I got acura to come down to 175 for the install, and thats the best price i could get anwhere, even independent shops wanted 175-300 for just the one. Our labor rates in oregon are pretty high, I got them down to about 90 an hour but normally its 110-120 at dealers and around 90 or so for independent shops. Plus ill get aloaner for the day so i wont have to be without a car. Ill update when i get it back.
TCM did you install yours or have someone else do it? If someone else, whad they charge for all 3?
TCM did you install yours or have someone else do it? If someone else, whad they charge for all 3?
01-30-2008, 07:24 AM
#431
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
For the side mount you need to do something like this. I think that's why you guys are finding the holes don't line up right. You need something to prevent the engine weight from sagging once the old mount gets taken off. May also be why you think you need longer bolts. You really shouldn't from what I see & having the stock mount out once already.
As for the longer bolts, you should use those because the plate thickness on the new mounts are much thicker. I'm betting that I had no more than a 3/16" holding the new mount in, not enough for my comfort . . and especially for hard launches.
Ruf
01-30-2008, 04:35 PM
#436
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Mike
san diego peeps G Win auto on miramar road will do it for $195 for all 3. They've done work on my co-workers car for a few years and he's been very satisfied w/them.
going back tomorrow to see if they can fix it.
01-30-2008, 05:55 PM
#437
Uses turn signals in my
Originally Posted by Mike
hold off on that recommendation. just got the car back and there's a loud humming when i accelerate and it vibrating in the cabin.
going back tomorrow to see if they can fix it.
going back tomorrow to see if they can fix it.
I think it sounds pretty badass. Let me know what happens with this incase it is an issue of some sort.
01-30-2008, 06:15 PM
#438
Originally Posted by Mike
hold off on that recommendation. just got the car back and there's a loud humming when i accelerate and it vibrating in the cabin.
going back tomorrow to see if they can fix it.
going back tomorrow to see if they can fix it.
Also, i had my rear 6 speed mount installed today and there are more vibrations at idle compared to just having front and side. Front and side i dont think there wasa a difference, but with the rear on there you will notice more vibrations when the fan kicks on or you have your AC on. So if your really picky about any sort of vibrations i would leave the rear off. THe rear is also the most difficult to put on. Also, my car is a 6 speed, so i suspect there are less vibrations than on an auto where theres always torque on the engine even at idle, if you know what i mean. Plus we have engine dampers, which im not sure if autos have.
Pros: Significantly less wheel hop, more power to the ground and they look sweet in the engine bay, Lifetime warranty
Cons: Vibrations at idle when Fan kicks in. Most wont have problems with this, but some that dont want any additional vibrations in the cabin i would not recomend these
01-30-2008, 06:28 PM
#439
Senior Moderator
i can appreciate the facts you stated but the humming is pretty loud and the vibration isn't just through the steering wheel but through out the entire cabin. it's as if the tire is rubbing in the wheel well.
