Mike

it took josh and the group buy to make this happen. you're riding our coat tails there buddy.

Billy Sacco

Did you pay $330 or $300? I think its $330 if you buy them direclty isn't it?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

My side mount has been broken for 3 weeks now, but I have no time to install so I don't mind the wait.

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

oh shit it is even better knowing someone ordered their mounts last wednesday and already has them after they were shipped across the entire country.

good news is i called them and they said mine were shipping today. i was supposed to call back in an hour for a tracking # but forgot. i plan on calling tomorrow to get the tracking # and ask a few questions about this whole cluster fuck.

Mike

they don't work on saturdays so you're going to have to wait until monday.

RUF87

and dissing the group and Josh . . . not cool

Ruf

RUF87

Okay, I re-read the post and tried to edit the message, but something screwed up.

Anyway, when you consider that we got R&D done to design 2 new mounts, the side mount and the rear mount for the 6spd, and then got all 3 mounts for less than the original price Innovative charged for just the front and rear, we got a heck of a deal . . . $300 shipped and all.

Even the site still lists the price for just the front and rear as $299, and I'm not sure that includes shipping. The group buy for just the front and rear was $225 . . I think.

Another key point here is, when you consider that with the GB and Excelerate working together we got a company to do R&D for a low volume performance part, and at this price . . . it is a great deal. If we want our sponsored suppliers to work with us, we need to support them. That is as long as they give us a deal equal to or better than going to the manufacturer directly.

Lastly, ask the Accord guys what the mounts cost in the very beginning . . over $400 I believe.

Ruf

RUF87

Oh, yes!! I got my mount too!! Came in Wednesday. They sure are purtty! I hate to put them on.

Anyway, I noticed the order came with 2 extra steel nipples. If I can find a couple of hours Saturday I'll get those bad boys in . . . then we'll have some fun.

However, I was expecting some instructions as to which mount was front and rear. Good thing Mike mentioned that the rear was the slightly taller one. Not sure I would have noticed that in all the excitement.

Ruf

RUF87

Bummer on the guys who supplied mounts for the design work. They should have been first on the list . . . I could have waited a few more days so they could get theirs.

Ruf

slowcl-s

iTrader: (1)

Those were not my intentions by any means, I just found it very odd that you all put in the orders a while ago and some still havent received them. Yet, I call them over the phone and they send them out within the week. (Great Service by the way)

Also..... These mounts have been out for a while since they are the same mounts for the 98-02 Accord V6, which has been on there site for quite sometime. The only thing new is the side mount.
So I actually think it would be possible with out you two, but you can keep telling yourself that. Just because someone says something doesnt mean its personal, were all here to help.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

They had to make the side and then the rear mount for the 6 speed. It is different than the auto. before all they had availible was front and rear AUTO trans

RUF87

You made basically the same mistake I did . . . not reading and or understanding my posts where I wanted to edit the first after re-reading your post.

Anyway, you did take a poke at us and I quote "And didn't go the BS "group buy" route." So did you or did you not say what we did was "BS"? If not please explain yourself.

As far as "receiving" the mounts, any one of use could have paid full price through Innovative and got them much sooner. What took longer was the development of the side and rear mount for the 6spd. Since most of us needed the side mount, we all stuck together to get all 3 of the mounts we needed, and cheaper to boot. Basically you did not have all the facts of what went on in this GB and made a comment that took a poke at us.

Anyway, whether it was your intention or not, it did "dis" those of us who were personally involved in putting this GB together.

Ruf

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

I got my mounts in today. Going to install the side myself cuz its way easy, but front and rear im not too sure about. Rear looks like a total pain in the ass where the front doesnt look too bad. Has anybody else installed theres yet or installed oem mounts to give me any pointers?

Also, whats that loose little nipple thing for. Looks like there a hole for it on the front mount but it just falls right through.

CG2PROJECT

hmm.. my side mount is sorta flush.. I guess..

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

meaning? did you install your mounts with negative results?

RUF87

Possible fitment issue with the side mount!

I started on the side as well as it looked straight forward. For the most part it was pretty easy with the right tools and approach. I'll post more details once I get to a stopping point, but I wanted to caution everyone installing a side mount for a fitment problem I ran into. If it weren't for that problem, it would have taken me about 30mins or less to remove and replace it.

The first problem was getting the 2 back holes to line up. I'm guessing that they are off by slightly more than 1/32" to 1/16'. I started with the single bolt closest to the passenger fender well, and no matter what I tried I could not get both back bolt holes to line up. The I tried it with the single bolt out, and was able to work both back bolts in. However, I couldn't get the single bolt to line up and start threading. I even tried tightening the 2 back bolts and then attempted to move the motor around to get it to line up. It was then during the tightening of the 2 back bolts did I notice another problem. The bolts were barely starting before they tightened up. As I looked at the thickeness of old mount's frame and that of the new mount that the new mount's frame was thicker.

Okay, off to buy some new bolts, about 1/4" longer. I went ahead and got a grade 8 bolt, which was harder than the OEM.

Anyway, now using the new longer bolts, it was easier to fiddle with the alignment and get all bolts started. There also this piece of aluminum bracket that the motor mount attaches to. I took the bolts out of those so I could fiddle with getting everything to align. I'll tell you about the last trick to getting the long bolt that goes through the motor mount bushing and that bracket in a bit.

If the spacing of the back two holes was slightly wider, and the single front hole about 1/32" closer to the passenger fender well, I think it would have been a piece of cake!

Note: there's some sort of throttle control modual and braket that sit over the single bolt. If you remove it you will be able to get to it easily.

Once all the bolts are started, make sure you don't tighten them yet! You will need some play to get the long bolt to go through the bushing and bracket.

If the long bolt does not start easily, you will need to do the following. Tighten the 2 bolts that hold the bracket to the motor. Leave the motor mount bolts loose. Then you will need to use a jack and slowly lift the engine up until you see that the holes are starting to align. Once I got it as close as I could with the jack, I then used a large screwdriver and placed it between the bracket and the motor mount and applied some leverage to get the bolt to start easily. It went pretty easy until there was about 1" to 1 1/2" to go and got tight. I found that by letting some pressure off the mount by barely lowering the jack it went easily again. Once the long bolt was tightened, I tightened the other 3 motor mount bolts . . and that was it for the side mount.

As a side note, I was shocked at how much I had to jack the engine up to get the long bolt holes to align. The reason is that when I took the old mount off . . . I didn't have to do anything but unbolt it and take it out. And it made sense once I inspected and played with the old mount. It was TOTALLY SHOT! GONE! WIPED OUT! Well . . I sort of knew that, but until then could only guess it was. Anyway, since the mount was totally shot, there was no tension on the long bolt or any of them for that matter.

To make the job easier, you'll need some long extention bars and a swivel adaptor helps too. Also, I found my long magnetic retrival tool real helpful in fishing the bolts out, and to place the back 2 bolt in position as I could not reach down there. Other than that, a 10mm socket to remove the bracket/module (I'll get pics posted later), a 14mm and 17mm sockets.

Since I got a late start today, I may not tackle both front and rear, but maybe the front as it looks easy as well. Wait, didn't I think that about the side mount?

Regarding that little steel nipple . . well after a closer look at the front mount set up, you'll see that they have one too. There's a small hook arm on the bracket that wraps around that nipple. Not quite sure as to what purpose it serves as it's too small to help with any twisting or torque that could be applied by the engine or installation. Anyway, at least now I think I know which way these mounts should be installed.

More after I tackle these.

And did I say my side mount was totally shot?

Ruf

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

nice write up RUF. the rear is a bitch to get out. here is my removal experience to help get y'all started.

there is not much room to swing a ratchet and the bolts into the frame are tight. have plenty of PB Blaster and be prepared to spend tons of time laid across the hard motor. i had to remove the top sway and the fuse box at the top left of the engine compartment to make room for my arms and to turn he ratchet. the rear engine damper will also need to be removed to gain access to one of the mount bolts. upon pulling the heavy oem mount out you will need to bend the heater hose bracket to make room to swing that monster out.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Thats weird about the side mount issues. Someone went down to innovative locally and specifically had that one test fitted with no issues. I will go try mine and see what happens

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

I had basically the same issues as RUF with the side mount. He had an auto so i thought it may be different on 6 speed. I did not have to get new bolts though, mine worked fine. They did start to tighten preety quick but there was no problem getting them tighten down real tight. Seemed to be enuff thread. And the front 2 holes lined up fine for me, it was the rear single hole that was barely off. I just kept trying to force the bolt straight and it eventually caught thread and tightend up just fine. with the bracket i just tightend that up first, than stuck a pry bar in between the mount and the bracket and lifted the engine up just a bit so the bolt holes lined up for the long bolt. Everything is on and tightend just fine as far as i can tell. Im going to go for a drive now to see how everythng feels. I noticed the urethane sticks out a bit more towards the firewall than it does the other. Hopefully the front and rear go on a bit easier. It took me an hour and 10 minutes where when i did it before it took about 30.

CG2PROJECT

Wow.. I couldn't get the last bolt, the one rear single hole, on. So for now.. I'm not even going to try. I was stumped for 3 hours and still couldn't get it to fit. I think it forced some threads and it doesn't seem good. It still drives fine, but my god.. it doesn't seem like it's going to fit anytime soon.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

You could always take the mount back out and dremel or file the hole a little bit bigger and use some black touch up paint on the raw areas. Once the bolt is in, you wouldnt see where its dremeled anyways.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

I got back from about a 50 mile drive and everything seems great. I only have the side mount in so far, but no additional vibrations at idle what so ever compared to stock. If theres going to be a difference with that though its probably going to be with taking the front hydraulic mount out, but well see what happens. The accord guys said the additional vibrations were barely noticable at ide, and i think with the 6 speed it should be even better. Do the autos have the torque sticks too?

Ruf did you get the other 2 mounts in? Any tips or difficulties with those? Im thinkin about doing the front in a little bit but im going back and forth if is hould do it or dealer. Im pretty mechanically inlclined but ive never done motor mounts before other that the side on the CL which is cake

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

Got 1 more in. The front. pain in the ass, almost woulda rather paid the 150.00 for someone else to do it. The mount fits perfectly though. Took approximatly 4 hours to do.Hands are all scraped up and soar too. To do the front you will need several extensions and probably a good torque wrench. The left front lower mount bolt is a PITA to get too. Make sure when you jack the tranny up you unplug the vaccum port on the mount to release the pressure. Now that ive done it once i could probably get it done a bit quicker but this definatly is NOT an easy job. Anyways, didnt get too much chance to drive it since it 430 am and snowing outside, and i live on a steep ass hill. but there is a DEFINATE improvement with wheel hop, almost non existant and i still havent put the rear on. I think your definatly getting more power to the ground. One of the drawbacks but everybody knows this is there is a little bit more engine vibration so you will feel the engine more. I havent driven more than a few minutes with it so thats about all the feedback i have so far. I may or may not do the rear mount, i will get instructions from acura, and if it looks to be as much of a pita as the front, i will have someone else do it. it does feel good to do it yourself, but i know im going to be soar in the morning, specially my scraped up hands.

Billy Sacco

Hey did you take off the bracket holding the mount to the engine? I have not gotten a chance to put in the innovative mounts yet but when I replaced my front mount with an OEM one a lot of people said to just jack the engine up and slide the mount out but I could not get my engine jacked up high enough for that. Ended up taking the bracket off then putting the new mount in. The rear looks almost easier in this regard as when I peeked at it the bracket looked a little easier to get to. Once you get the bracket out it usually smooth sailing from there. Well putting it back together can be a PITA.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

You have to take the bracket off, no getting around that. The innovative one gives you more room to work with since its not so beefy

TitaniumCLS6MT

I still have not received my mounts. Any tracking number yet?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I would like a tracking number too, if available. I wasn't in on the original GB, but put in an order afterwards for a 99 TL-P.

RUF87

Silva, I do have some tips, but I've been so busy I've not had a chance to post until now. I'll do it in a separate post so I can add some pics.

Bottom line, once I figured out the best approach, it wasn't that hard. Took me 30mins to play with the angles, then once I started it took me 30 mins to get it done.

Ruf

RUF87

Side mount insalled pics, and OEM side mount, which as you can see it toast!

This is the pic of the module and bracket that needs to be removed. You also need to disconnect the wire connector on the top left, and the black connector right below the cable, then you can move it around to access the side mount and bolts as needs. See previous post for more details.


This is a pic of the 2 bolts that hold the aluminum bracket to the motor. As noted in the previous post, unbolting this made it easier to get the old mount in, and install the new one.
[URL=

This is a pic of the new mount installed. Again, while you may be able to get the OEM bolts to thread and tighten, my is that you get a longer bolt, @ 1/4" will do. That way you have less of a chance of striping out the threads, and that would be bad.


I think anyone whole turned a wrench and the proper tools should be able to replace the side mount in about 25-30 mins.

Ruf

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

What vehicles do you both have? It would be nice to make up a small DIY with pictures that other members can use to install once they get theirs in. Even if it's not their specific vehicle the basic DIY would help lots .

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

it took you only 30 minutes to do the front or the side? The side mount for me wasnt too hard, it only too me about an hour. it was the front mount that was a pita to put in. It fits perfectly, but the stock mount has bolts in hard to reach areas and there super tight. With the innovative mount its not so beefy so the bolts are easier to access so its definatly easier to put the new mount in than take the stock one out. Did you get the front or rear installed yet? Im waiting to do the rear until i go to acura for them to print out instructions for me.

RUF87

Front Mount Installation: Note, I have headers, so OEM exhaust will be a bit different as I expect the heatshield will make access harder.

Well, as Silvaccordex01 stated, this one is no cakewalk, but with the right tools and technique, it wasn't that bad. As noted above, because there were multiple options on how to get this bad boy out, I played around with the angles and spacing. Anyway, here's the list of tools you'll need.

- extension bars - about 2 feet worth is what I used for taking out the bottom 4 bolts that hold the mount to the frame, and the 4 12mm bolts that hold the motor mount sub components together, I'll explain this later.
12mm socket - see note above
14mm socket
19mm socket
swivel adaptor
14mm box end wrench
magnetic tool retriever

Okay to start, in my case I needed to jack the car up and put it on the lowest setting of the jack stands . . . because I can't even get a low profile jack under the front end . . . yes, it sits too low so, we're on jack stands and the jack under the tranny ready to go.

Next I unbolted the big 19 nut holding the top of the mount to the bracket. Then I took out the 4 bolts holding the mount to the frame. The bolt on the top-left, when looking down on the mount, can be accessed by putting a short 14mm socket with a 3/8" swivel on the bolt head from underneath. Then from the top you can connect extension bar to it and take it easily out. While you are down there, disconnect that vaccum line and plug it.

Then take out the 4 12mm bolts that hold the steel mount retainer to the bottom half of the mount. Here's why I did this. When it comes time to removing the mount, you will need to pivot the mount with the bracket, and taking out these bolts gave me just enough extra to play with and slip the mount out. Note, once loose, I needed to hold the nut on the bottom with my fingers to keep the bolt from spinning.

Now for the fun part. To give you the play space to pivot the mount out, you need to remove 2 of the 3 aluminum bracket bolts that hold the big bolt on the mount to the motor. The 2 you remove are, when facing the engine, are the right bolt, and the top bolt. The left bolt (closest to the exhaust) just needs to be loosened. This allows you to rotate the bracket, and we'll get to that point in a minute. Note, the bracket has a little hook arm the is used to help center the mount and bracket when aligning them. The new mount has a steel nipple for this purpose. It'll also help you to know which way the new mount needs to face.

All this is not hard, but I couldn't get a socket on the top bolt because the OEM blocks it, so I used a 14mm box end wrench. And because the way the bolt is set, you can only make small turns, and that take some time and patience. Good news is that the new mount make putting it back in a breeze.

Now to actually remove or even loosen these bolts, I found I needed to jack the motor up, which didn't make sense and I didn't want to try and figure out why, and just did it since it worked. Okay, once you get the 2 bolts out, and the left one lose you're ready to take this beast out. Note: before you can do this next part, you need to make sure you can wiggle the aluminum bracket easily.

Okay, now rotate/swing the bracket towards the left (toward the exhaust) and at the same time pivot the motor mount to the left as well. In doing so you can jiggle the mount and the clearance needed to get the bolt to slip out of the bracket. It's out and now just work it up and out between the radiator hoses. Many what a fish!

Okay, now everything from hear on out is easier . . . much so I think.

The first thing I did was position the mount over the 4 subframe holes and install the 4 bolts. Note, the plates on the new mounts aren't thicker than the OEM, so the old bolts work just find. Next remove the large bolt from the top of the mount. Then swing the bracket back in to place and put the 2 bolts back in and tighten them. Notice that you can now get a socket on that middle bolt and it's done in seconds.

Once the bracket and mount are tight, you'll notice that mount will pivot. Also notice the steel nipple mentioned above. Once you have them in general alignment, I needed to jack the motor up until the bracket and mount came in to alignment allowing me to start the big bolt. Once I got that tightened down, I rechecked all the bolts to make sure I tightened them.

Did you remember to plug the vacuum line?

Done . . . as I said, once I figured out the best process, it wasn't that bad. Here are some pics of the new and old. Sorry, didn't think of taking any before shots.

New mount installed




OEM POS




Ruf

RUF87

I did a short DIY already for the side mount a few above.

As for the front, I just posted it below.

I wish I would have thought to take some pics of the removal, but I was so focused on figuring out the best way I just didn't

Maybe we can get one of the mods to edit some of my spelling errors in the first post, and combine the 2 installation posts in a DIY thread.

I do hope the notes help, and if anyone has any before or during questions, feel free to send me a PM. Do give me a heads up before you start so I'm expecting it.

I didn't have time to do the rear . . it is more involved and I had to many other things going on and needed my car. I hope the weather is good next week so I can do the rear.

Ruf

RUF87

Using the approach I did for the front, it should take between 30-45 minutes depending on the tools you have.

The real pain in the was getting the top bolt of the aluminum bracket out . . . as I said, a lot of little turns . . . that alone took me about 10-15mins. Then the one that almost put a stop to this approach was the right aluminum bracket bolt. That bolt was a bugger . . . damn near pulled my shoulder out of socket. I had to use a 14mm box end wrench and that's not a big wrench, so not much leverage with that one. I had to use both hands, but mostly the right, which I had surgery on it certainly put some torque on it.

Anyway, once I got those 2 out, everything else was easy. If it weren't for those 2 bolts, and knowing the best approach, I'm certain I could have done it in 30 minutes.

Oh well, those 2 are in, and if you see how bad my OEM POS mounts looked . . . you'll wonder how my motor didn't just jump out of the hood.

BTW - I have a 2002 TLS

Ruf

SIRSIG

imagine, the promise of not having your mounts replaced ever again well not if you want to upgrade the inserts.

i'm planning on changing my inserts to 75A black, add a side mount after my next project is done...

i'm really jealous of you people getting the mounts in a bargain price. Heck, OEM are much expensive!

RUF87

I only have the side and front installed at this point, but considering mine OEMs were total wasted, I could feel an immediate improvement. If didn't know what was wrong with my car, and someone replaced these mount without my knowing it, I would have thought that they installed a shift kit in the tranny. I could actually feel the shifts from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd. Those OEM mounts isolated the feel of the engine that I could never feel it with good mounts.

I can't wait to take it to the track in the spring and see how it runs. I'm hoping it'll nock a tenth or 2 off my 1/4 times. And to see if and how much the wheel hop is reduced.

As for daily drive ability, I could feel very light vibrations through the steering wheel. I don't know how much of that is due to some of the other mods, but it's very slight. Some people may not even notice it at all. I also think, as you get some miles on these mounts, I think they will soften up a bit. With that said, I wouldn't recommend the stiffer bushings unless you were a serious hot rodder . . .

Stay tuned . . . .

Ruf

RUF87

And for whatever freak reason you did . . . the design of the front and rear make the job MUCH easier.

Ruf

RUF87

It's a good thing I saved it for another weekend . . . I didn't have more than 1 1/2 windows all weekend.

Thanks for the heads up.

Ruf

RUF87

Can we get one of the Mods to move the posts about installation to a new thread for Installing the Innovative Mounts?

That way we won't clutter up Josh's thread. Thoughts?

Ruf

SIRSIG

in and out. that's all there is


i'm really happy how this product turned out, it benefited a lot of people. To think that, this was just a crazy dream of 10 souls, searching for answer for that dreaded wheelhop.

I'll let you guys know how the 75A bushing would feel like...