Just ordered from Acura Carland. $50 shipped for spacer and bolts but I paid for 2Day since I'm heading to the track next week. I'm going to use P2R and stock spacer like ACU-RATE did.

I don't use the plastic covers. Will I need hood spacers anyway?

 

yes and good luck getting the bolts that noone else can manage to get from acura.

 

yeah, I'm going to eyeball the order status and if it stalls for the bolts, I'll just have them send the spacer and find what I need at Pep Boys, Napa or Tractor Supply.

 

The B4 dyno was 280 whp & 246 wtq (at best after 3 runs) w/o the manifold at best.....done back in APR 09

&.....281 whp & 254 wtq after 3 runs with the IM SPACER

As far as 1/4 mile.....These cars a heavy FWD Luxury vehicles....They were not build for 1/4 mile......AT ALL

BUT....if you wana talk straight up highway runs from a roll...thats a diff. story....

 

added the 2 long studs to my order and looks like the other studs are definitely on back order like everyones saying.

you think these can be found at one of the big auto parts stores...the 7 primary bolts?

 

the longest any big name store carried when i checked both online and in store was 70mm in length. we need 105.

Do yourself a favor and just order them from BMW. I posted the part # in my picture post.

 

I found some at LOWE's that work for my install....(7 primary bolts)


Hillman
Hex Cap Screws
Grade 5 USS
5/16-18 x 4

UPC code (Bar code):
0-0823670418-1

i paid $0.92 ea.

 

I tried out that thread pitch on a 5/16th bolt, and you are definitely risking it mixing Standard with Metric. Just a fair warning - stick with M8 1.25's. Cross threading is not fun.

 

UR right...But thats what i used...& i bolted down fine.....

Im not TELLING anyone to go my route...Im just sharing what i use/did ....

 

Fair enough.

 

so that's M8 Hex Cap, 1.25 mm? The metric bolt system alway confuses the shit out of me and I'm prone to stripping holes, which I haven't done yet on this car with all the digging in the engine and I don't want to start.

anyone remember the torque spec on these? I think it was in the P2R threads.

 

would this mod help my tq numbers, even though im all stock?

 

They are M8x105mmx1.25pitch (standard to M8, unless u get a special narrow pitch of 1.00).

Tq specs are 16 lb/ft

 

We all know and understand that. It still doesn't explain why they don't seem to trap where they should. FWD limits the elapsed time of a car, not the trap speed. Good numbers though.

 

If the TL-S was truely a topend car, you'd see evidence of it in the trap speed. I'd expect to see things like 14.0@104mph. That would tell me the motor's powerband is more focused on the higher end and/or the gearing is tall. Both would make the car a bit sluggish from 0-40mph and then the car would really start moving. Instead, I see a motor with a very solid powerband and appropiate gearing for any mph. The times I've seen posted make sense for a car exhibiting these characteristics (ie lower 14s in the 100ish range). I just can't figure out why this 3,600lb car isn't going faster with 280-290whp. 3,600lb 07-08 G35 sedans are going 13.6-13.8@103-104mph with 260-270whp. I haven't seen anyone post up a third party run of a G37 sedan, but I'd expect it to be in the 13.5@104mph range since it makes about 280whp.

 

THIS THREAD IS ABOUT IM SPACER!

PLease don't turn this into a RACING thread...there is a section for that.....

 

But have you seen any fully bolted TL-S 6MT's run at the track? I mean I ran 99.5 mph on my only full QM run and I'm sure I can break 100 next time out. I'm probably making upper 240's at the wheels which puts me right where a stock Type S 6MT is. I really wish more of these guys with bolted cars would at least make one trip to the track for some empirical data anyway.

 

So why on earth would it be running rich like that? Was it like that before the spacer or did it happen after you put it on?

Your engine won't blow up anytime soon, but your mpg's must be lower than average.

 

ok so i tried it out and boy what a difference.... i felt alot more torque in the lower rpm range.. top end was about the same... ok now for the bad...the hood didnt close and i didnt want to put spacers.. i had to stretch some hoses and some wiring... and the vacuum port for the brake booster was hitting the strut bar...i took it back off and plan to take it to a machine shop to get it milled 1/2"...i took some pics ....
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hmm, not exactly plug and play then. Are you saying you need to trim some fat off the brake booster? Can this be done with a bench grinder, ya think? So, you stretched some of the electrical leads but they fit, right?

I was gonna pick up some washers at the parts store anticipating I would need them.

Very stoked about this. My engines about as open as an NA can be and that means my low end is almost non-existent.

 

tl2slow....did you connect the Fujita CAI yet? I was worried about the P2R TB spacer causing an issue. Let me know, thanks.

 

i didn't keep it on...i took off the spacer...am going to get it milled 1/2".... but yes i had everything on.. i just had to modify the bracket a little to make the intake fit..... how are you other guys running this spacer if the hood dosent close right...you would need spacers for the p/s and d/s hinges and need to modify the hood lock..you guys have any pics...i don't about you guys but i don't want my tl looking like a civic

 

ACU-RATE (or was it gerzand) said he just used the 2mm spacers on the hood hinges. I would think as you lifted the rear of the hood it would dip the front enough to catch the latch.

 

geeze guys, most all info is posted already. As said before, I raised the hood latch (its adjustable FYI) and used 2mm washers under both hinges. I didnt use a n IM p2r gasket tho, so you guys will probably have a more challenging time. You can always hammer down the hood support rails if need be.

And my car looks totally stock from the outside, no noticable gaps... though every car is goona be a small bit different on your hood/fender alignment.

good luck.

 

[IMG]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4347/021cpd.jpg[/IMG







If you port the runners bolt down your gasket and use a sharpy and trace where extra Gasket is so you can cut it for a nice even flow.

 

^ i sent you my email... no fair... thats for the ported guys

dang dude you mod crazy I can't wait to edit your vids

 

Called my local BMW dealer and they stock the part. They only have 4 in stock but can order more in. $3.43 a bolt.

 

Probably would not be as bad if you didn't have the thermal gasket in there. I am going to look into the option of milling it down as well, just to keep enough hood clearance.

 

I realized that my slight increased "engine vibration" i was feeling at idle was actually do to resonance through the car caused by the same VSV sensor as mentioned, rubbing on my RV6 strut bar. But it wasnt anything a quick relocation of the sensor couldn't resolve!

 

Cool. They work great. Worth the $23/24.

EDIT: Pick up 7 M8 lock washers from the store while your at it.

 

Just got to read the full threads

My apologies for listing some partially misguided info...

But yes looking at acc's dyno sheet... Its just how I suspected... Tq ftw... Now no one can say that they're loosing tq from this and that if you get it back for under $50

Cheap mods ftw... Glad my no longer tl driving ass could help

 

man, I've never seen lock washers used on intake studs. not saying it shouldn't be done, but do you think it's necessary.

 

only cuz they r hex heads.... playing it safe bro

 

Good FIND !!!!
I give U ALL the CREDIT for it !!!
:gheywave:

 

well, I drove all over the city today and all I could scrape together was 100mm bolts. I have the 2 long studs coming with the spacer. Looks like about a 1/4" difference between 105mm and 100mm. Do you think this will be OK?

I'm only rushing this a bit because I'm hitting the track Wednesday night.

 

Caller my local Bimmer sport and they had seven of those bolts on hand $3.44 but cant pick up till monday cuz of my friggn work schedule today.

Called an Ack dealer and they have to order the gasket on monday and they have it listed for $29.33. I checked Delray and they have it for 21 ish but it will be 30 w/shipping so ill just get it local.

Im kinda stumped or missed something in the thread about the 2 studs. I heard that the part AL gave was the same size as stock so should I run without or can I get them somewhere else??

 

You need 9 bolts forget the studs

 

Not doubting you but who has done that? I just dont remember reading that anywhere.

Why didnt they just put 9 from factory

 

Would'nt running all bolts be kinda how the throttle body spacer is mounted to.
U remove the 2 studs and 2 bolts and replace with 4 longer bolts...

 

Guess so o well I was just worried about the hole diameter being the same.