NedShneebly

^anyone? 100mm's OK?

beachexotic03

iTrader: (2)

it should be fine!

Soseductivesf

So what exactly do I need? Just the gasket,bolts and spacers?

NedShneebly

yep. read back a few pages. one of the 1st installers noticed there's 2 'guide' studs that are different than the other 7 mounting bolts. The part #'s were listed shortly after that. I think 2 of the 3 guys rocking this went without them.

oh, and hood spacers just in case. I just bought a dozen washers from the sto'.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

UPDATE:

I noticed that even with 4mm worth of washers on the hood hinges, the hood latch adjusted nearly all the way up, and the factory heat shield removed, I was still rubbing slightly which what beginning to chip the paint from the front drivers side corner of my IM cover (with the 3.2 emblem).

So the fix once and for all was to remove all washers, leave hood latch adjusted 'high', and cut a 8'' long notch in the center hood support. This is pretty minor, and doesn't appear to affect the structural integrity of the hood. Best of all is no rubbing and perfect body lines . Pics will be up later.

NedShneebly

nice. I can't imagine the hood folding in or anything, especially with the crease going down the center.

Hope you get these up by tonight...my parts arrive today!

Dave_B

You guys be careful with those hood clearances. When you launch hard and/or on slippery surfaces and the wheels start hopping, that motor is going to rotate forward and back and up and down. It's not uncommon for a motor to be able move up/down/forward/back in the mounts by up to 1/2". That could be bad news for your hood. Once you dent or crease it from the inside out, it's unrepairable. Don't ask how I know this. Also, if your clearances are that tight and some shop is working on the car and they slam the hood from 1.5'+, you may run the risk of denting the hood.

Someone should start buying these things get them milled down 1/4"-3/8". If this mod makes the power as advertized, this guy make some decent money on the side.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

Buy one, cut it in half, and sell one.

Black_05_TL_6SP

What is the thickness of the thermal gasket. I installed mine so long ago and never took any measurements.

Also, one of the machinists that I work with can mill one down for me. I have to get one from the dealer. It looks like I can take 10mm off of it. But this is why I needed to know what the thickness of the thermal gasket is.

One other thing, what is the length of the stock bolts or even the ones that come with the thermal gasket?

NedShneebly

P2R thermal gasket was about 1/4" thick. Think Outlaw Engineering made one before P2R and don't remember their thickness.

I'm just going to go with hood spacers and remove after track night if it's really not riding well.

JS08TLS

Thats what I was thinking just mill it down some then you wont have any clearance issues.

Black_05_TL_6SP

For those that don't feel like reading the whole thread. I have compiled the list of parts needed and what they are. I looked up the correct studs and added that part #.


Factory Intake Manifold Spacer (1 Required) - 17108-RDJ-A00

Bolts 8M x 105mm (7 Required) - 95701-08105-08/ BMW part for the 8M x 105mm Bolt 07-11-9-904-532

Studs - 8M x 100mm (2 required) - 92900-08100-1B

Intake Manifold gasket (1 required) - 17105-RCA-A01


Hope this helps. I am getting the order in so I can mill it and see if I can get enough clearance.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

P2R thermal gaskets are 1/8"

beachexotic03

iTrader: (2)

Here we will start!
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4223/001fod.jpg
Tighten the bolts you see down to 16LBS

Again Tighten

Repeat!

Dont forget this guy!

Tighten the 8mm bolts just alittle dont Tq them down! With time and heat they will be good.

Do the other side!

Make sure all wires and injectors are attached. And dont forget about the CPS witch is hidden by the timing belt cover!

Check both sides.

Nice work Keep going!

Install your manifold!

Hook up all hoses and sensors. Put new gasket on top plate as well!

Install throttle body,Sensors,and hoses and this is final step.

2 p2r gaskets and spacer!

See one and two.

Now us 5x4 5/16 washers to space you hood do one at a time.


Have fun next DIY is J37 camshaft and ported plus 3 angle valve job!

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

Nice work. Convenient that you skipped the injector removal as that can be a very expensive mess up when pulling them out. ;]

And on a side note, someone years ago did head work to the J32A2 and lost serious amounts of power. And he had a Unichip for ECU management.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Oh wow, see that hood gap is unacceptable to me. So is cutting. Hmmm.

NedShneebly

I'm going to use 1x P2R below spacer and stock gasket above. Hopefully use thinner washer with enough clearance that won't be as noticeable. Doing it this afternoon and I'll post picks if everything works out OK.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Well then you'z out of luck!!!

DOH! Forgot to snap pics last night. But i think I did a damn good with my dremel and diamond cutting wheel. Some high temp black engine enamel and she looks good

I agree, I'm normally not a fan of cutting but for under the hood? who cares!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

I guess I could deal with cutting, I mean torque gains per dollar here is good. Do you have the gray matte under your hood still? I'd love to see pics of what you are cutting.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

I suppose i COULD put the matte back in, but there are several areas where it rubs. For example, on the top TB MAP sensor and on the IM's Denso servo motor so I'd have to modify it a bit...otherwise the matte material will shred very easy with engine movement during driving. Its not a big deal for me tho, so I think I'll leave it out. Heck, my black car gets so hot in the sun that I cant tell a difference between sheet metal temps and under hood temps :P

Mjakaz09TL

iTrader: (7)

want to sell me your parts??

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^I haven't ordered anything yet. Was waiting till we have a perfect solution.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

That hood gap is ! You should get a fiberglass cowl from summit and put that on the car.

NedShneebly

Done with the mod. Fit a 1/4" of washers in the hood hinges before I ran out of bolt threads - still impacting IM. So, I took a ball peen hammer and flattened out the support rails that were rubbing. Can take pics. Doesn't look great but the protective matte will cover it if I switch it back out.

Runs stronger and I'll keep it for the track tomorrow night. But, not to hot on hood pop and the 2 guide studs that were shipped are the stock TL size...so I don't have them nutted down like one poster above.

beachexotic03

iTrader: (2)

Ill be quite candid and say that this mod is probably the best yet. I'll post dyno pictures soon. As far as the hood thing you can adjust the hood latch try it before bitching Then after that tell your mom you dont need her money anymore because you grew a set of balls and stop bitching.

NedShneebly

Not sure if that was directed at me.

1st, post how to adjust latch cause I didn't see a way without pulling the radiator.

Look, I'm a bolt on junkie. I'm up there with free-st flowing 5ATs. But I wait for legitimate mods that last - this is my daily driver and I can't afford to nuke it.

That being said, this mod is just a little sloppy with the hood part. My IM cover is still rubbing and the spacers I put on the hinges are kinda low tech and don't look to last. I already have to dig back in there to get proper studs. Just wondering if my hoods gonna fly up @ 100mph and fold over the roof while cracking my windshield.

Gains are significant though.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

^^There are 3 bolts for the latch. It's way simpler than you think, just spend a moment looking over things and itll come to you.

On another note, I'm actually glad that beachexotic said something about the bitching going on, because those who have done this mod and done their best to explain the process cant be expected to hold others hands the whole way through every single baby step. Everyone is going to need to figure out what works best for them. Adding washers and adjusting a hood latches, or even using a dremel tool or hammer is not rocket science. Nothing in this install requires removal of the front bumper.

/rant

NedShneebly

^^we're talking the lower latch mechanism, right? I'll look again. It's locking fine, drove it all night.

I knew I was in for this mod since 1st post. when the 1st dyno sheet hit it was just icing on the cake. The hood part just needs a little massaging...with my sheet metal hammer.

Cars a beast now. Let ya'll know about my 1/4 miles tomorrow.

RonJonTL757

Studs - 8M x 100mm (2 required) - 92900-08100-1B Since these are sold out nationwide...can BMW part for the 8M x 105mm Bolt 07-11-9-904-532 can 9 of these be used???

NedShneebly

no, they can't. these Studs are threaded on both ends so they can be sunk in the block and then capped inside the intake manifold with nuts (they're the two with nuts inside the IM when you take off the "3.2 Vtec" cover).

If you must do it now, just order 7 bolts and keep the 2 factory studs in place. Two of us have done this now. It will serve as a guide for the lower gasket and spacer but you won't be able to get a nut on it. 16 lb ft (or 196 inch lbs) each of the 7 studs and they hold fine.

Clean the EGR ports, IM and throttle body while you're in there.

Black_05_TL_6SP

I am going to be milling mine down, but still using the Outlaw thermal gasket that I have. So I am trying to account for the space needed for the IM spacer and the thermal gasket. I am thinking 10-12mm should be enough to get the clearance needed. This should be a reduction of ~4.6mm-~5.6mm. So if I can find a 100mm Bolt, I would be OK.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Lol damn, people are not bitching. This isn't a remove stock intake replace with cai. This is a remove, add, and MODIFY. People don't tread lightly on cutting up their hood.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

If you don't want to modify the car permanently in ANY way, then either:

A) spend the money and take the spacer and have it milled as others have

or

B) Deal with a non-flush hood by using a 1/2 inch of washers.

ACU-RATE

iTrader: (2)

Well Put...

Here's my hood pop.......Get over it !!!

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I agree; it's not a bitching thing. It's a pro's and con's thing. If you want the added performance, but don't care about what I would consider as an imperfections; then that's fine. But if the imperfections out way the performance gain, that's cool too. It's like saying that I want an exhaust that performs, but I don't want the extra noise (be there, done that).

I'm a sleeper-look kind of guy. I would love to do the spacer, but I'm to old to ride around with a popped up hood. My car has a very clean look, and that's the way I like it.

On another note, props to all that prove the mod is worth while!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

We just need someone to buy a dozen of them, mill them, and sell them!

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Good idea! I was thinking that very thing with the exception of buying a dozen. I would probably buy one and cut it in half and share it with other member. I'm sure the clearance would be more than enough; would just have to find the right size bolts.

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

^Cutting that much, how does it affect the gains? I mean if all this adds up to $50, and someone bought a bunch and milled them, I'd easily pay $80-100 bucks for it... Some profit to be made.

Dave_B

Exactly. It's humerous people are refering to it as "bitching". The way I see it is most people aren't willing to turn their classy TL into a ricey drift-look car with a popped hood. Some guys like the popped hood look, but for me, it's plain silly looking. Modifications almost always are about compromise whether it be ride quality, noise, or driveability. But the compromises with the look and potential damage far outweigh the gains. I'd be really concerned about that hood clearance if you get some excessive wheel-hop or if some other party closes the hood. You're talking $1000+. If the OEM is aluminum, you're looking at even more. Ball peen hammers to the underside support rails? Good God. By the spacer and take it to a machine shop for milling (~$50-100).

NedShneebly

Getting a constant CEL since installing: P0137 and 2207 - 02 lean bank sensor codes. I got the 0137 once before since installing pre-cats but it was random and never came back after clearing. I cleared this code twice now and it's back within minutes of driving around.

Might have slight surging at light throttle application. Just ran the car at Test and Tune night locally and it did good considering it was 93 degrees air temp (pro'ly 110 track temp), it's an auto, and I have 19's: 14.860 @ 95.13. Cars running very good wide open but it's not adjusting so smoothly. I'm sure the CEL is a combination of the pre-cat's and spaced IM. I can actually hear the induction noises from the IM in the cabin...sounds pretty killer!