CCColtsicehockey

understandable

CCColtsicehockey

A couple quick shots with the 15mm spacers on. Thanks J for these. Haven't had a chance to wash it still and we get 3 days of rain to start the weekend. Will get some better shots next week.

JT4

Looks good, hard to tell from pics but is there enough clearance in the rear? It looks like (from the 5th pic anyway) that the rear may rub if you get too much suspension travel..

CCColtsicehockey

So far it hasn't but I have not driven all that far. Haven't had any extra weight in the car either so I guess time will tell.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I love the way spacers make this car look. Are there any other spacer sizes available? like a 10 or 7?

CLtotheTL32

iTrader: (3)

CCColtsicehockey

10mm is the smallest I could go and stay with bolt on spacers

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Looks awesome, Jason...
glad you're happy, man!

CCColtsicehockey

So far I have put about 100 miles on the car since I installed the springs and no rubbing yet. Still need a trip with the dogs in the car to see if that causes me to rub but so far so good. Definitely love the look. Thanks J.

CCColtsicehockey

I love a black car fresh from a wash. Sadly this is the first wash she has seen since the new mods. Hoping to get out tomorrow and get some good pictures of it as it should be sunny out.

cu2wagon

I love seeing that 1G TSX peeking out in the background.

Such an under-rated styling.

Two exceptionally beautiful cars!

CCColtsicehockey

Thank you. The 1G TSX and the 2G CL are my two favorite most recent Acuras. Right up there with the Legend in my opion. We now have two 1G TSXs in the family. My heavily modded one and my girlfriend now has a completely stock one now she just got in the last month.

cu2wagon

Oh yeah? Did you get her set up with an account here?

Or do you deny having any knowledge of what an Acura Zine is now that she's joined the fold and could come across your antics?

Pics? (of the car)

CCColtsicehockey

There are pics of the car way back in this thread. It is a completely stock 2005 that now has a a dash dash, trans, ecus, gauges, and all the wiring that go with the 2004 AT. It was the donor car from TSX AT to MT swap. My dad decided he no longer wanted it so we got it from him for her cause. Haha no she is not getting an account on her. That won't ever be happening. What is AcuraZine

cu2wagon

Exactly. I spend all my internet time over on HondaTech.org or whatever.

CCColtsicehockey

Personally I am a frequent contributor on toyotaprius.net

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I love how the yellow calipers pop!
and what sucks is that because they are an oem option, I probably wouldn't ever opt to change to that if I went to the trouble of painting mine.

Acurasawa

Looks good!

CCColtsicehockey

Front upper and lower control arm poly bushings and front swap bar getting installed next Friday. If I had a lift and a press I would just do them myself. Also going to havea baseline dyno done as well while it is at the shop to see if it is really putting out what the previous owner told me.

CCColtsicehockey

So finally got my new upper and lower front control arm bushings installed as well as my front sway bar this past week. I am pretty confident. That my problems I was having with my front alignment and the car turning to one side easier than the other was cause of the rubber bushings being shot. With the poly bushings and the new thicker sway bar the car handles great. It just feels much more direct to the road when turning. Only picked it up Saturday so haven't made any high speed turns yet at all but so far the body roll has been reduced a lot at speeds 50mph and under which was one of my main goals with getting new sway bars.



So that is the good news. Also while I had the car in the shop I decided to have it put on the dyno so I could get a baseline of what the car is at before I start doing any engine mods. Well that is where things turned south. Apparently a combination of having a higher boost pulley and the Meistershaft exhaust on the car does not work with the stock injectors at all. Just trying to get a regular reading on the dyno the car never would go above a 13.1-13.6 a/f ratio. The injectors were also showing as being 96% maxed out. So with this obiously no power pulls were done so as to not hurt the car. Also noticed a little higher than normal IAT temp and it was a cooler day so that shouldn't have been an issue and it turns out either my heat exchanger pump has failed completely or is barely working.





So things are going to get a little pricey but going to do upgraded injectors, lingenfelter pump, an expansion tank for the system, and a retune at a minimum. Anything else I should consider doing at the same time? Not trying to break the bank but anything small that makes sense to do at the same time and save some labor or tuning time instead of doing later I would consider. Should I do a 160 tstat and a set of overdrive pulleys as well? What numbers can I expect to gain from this?

JT4

Never fails......No matter what type of car, it always seems that just when you're happy that you got one thing taken care of another issue pops up... Well, at least now you have a good excuse to spend some money on "go fast" parts..

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

i think you need to look at your brick... it might be collapsed...

i also have Mamo's ported TB for sale if you don't have that yet... i upgraded...

CCColtsicehockey

Isn't that the truth. If it was some other part I would be a little less thrilled but the fact I can upgrade some more go fast parts kind of has me a little excited actually.

The tuner told me you should hear the pump click on when you turn on the car and you don't hear anything at mine. He seemed pretty certain it was the pump and after the trouble they went through with the bushing install I don't feel that they would be leading me with false information. I will take a look though cause definitely don't want that happening.

I have my stock one port and polished. According to the previous owner. I never did pull the intake off to check. What did you switch too?

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

how crazy were the temps? a failed pump would put the IAT2's at close to engine temps... 30-50* over ambient would still put my vote at the brick...

CCColtsicehockey

Is it easy to check the brick without too much work? If so I will check it tonight after work.

I don't remember the temps but I believe like 30 over ambient range. The main issue we stopped though was cause of the A/F ratio being so off with the injectors being maxed out.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

unplug a few sensors, then unbolt the lid... it's like 18 bolts? the lift the lid up and the brick is inside... put a ruler or square on it and see if it is concave...

CCColtsicehockey

Just found this. ZL1 Lid Install and this http://www.texasvclub.com/Resources/...ll-Revised.pdf

Going to check tonight. Hopefully it is fine but you seem pretty convinced that it could be a problem. Almost tempted to check over my lunch break but not sure I want to rush it to fit into a 1hr window.

I would add a ZL1 lid to my upgrades if it wasn't for the fact they have now doubled in price.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

yea im with you... when they were $400 it was worth it... but the going rate is now $700... i won't take the leap until i find either a used one or i do the upgrades like you...

CCColtsicehockey

I was doing some reading too about them and a lot of people were saying if you do an expansion tank, better pump, and a upgraded heat exchanger you can get away with either not doing the lid or waiting till later for it. So we will see where a pump and expansion tank leave me for now. Hopfeully I can get everything done in the next 2-3 weeks.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

which HX are you going with?

JT4

Don't forget that with the ZL1 lid you will need to either have the lid milled, or cutout some of the metal from underneath the hood so that you have enough clearance to close the hood.. Or you can always buy a new hood...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

new hood new hood!!!

Majofo

You can flow out the stock injectors.. it's an option.

CCColtsicehockey

Whatever HX the previous owner put on. I don't have the brand name. It is a good bit larger though that I do know.

CCColtsicehockey

Going to skip the ZL1 lid for the time being with the crazy new price. Hopefully someone will either come out with a better design for less or they will drop back down to something reasonable. I don't plan to track the car or anything. Only doing a better pump cause mine is bad and the tank cause why not. Its much cheaper to do the tank than the ZL1 lid now. No new hood either.

This route is all about getting things where they should be and doing any small things I can do without breaking the bank at the same time for increased power and reliability. Power is fun but when I put 20-25k miles on a year I need reliability first.

CCColtsicehockey

Don't know what that entails or if it is riskier or than just doing injectors.

I don't even actually know what size pulley I have even. Trying to figure that out based on belt size right now. The belt that is on the car is a Gates K080649 with size 65.535in. Doing a little reverse research on ctsvoweners I took my belt model number to try and figure out my pulley size. Based on one post it appears I have a 2.4in pulley.

This is coming based on this post.

Found in this thread.
IM CONFUSED ABOUT THE BELT FOR A 2.4 PULLEY


I am really concerned about my engine now if I really have a 2.4 on stock injectors. I wonder what all damange was done or I could have even done without knowing this. I don't push the car hard on a daily basis but I definitely do from time to time.

Majofo

Whoa.. you have a 2.4" upper.. I don't think any damage has occurred.
Your tuner will be the one to uncap and flow out the injector.
There is also FIC and AGP injectors for almost half the cost of ID's.. of course.. ID is king.

My local tuner is pretty knowledgeable on all these things, can check with them (Texas Speed and Performance)
I'm sure a lot of shops are. See what shops the V2 owners use and ask..
If there is a good LSx tuner near you, might be the best place to start.

CCColtsicehockey

The 2.4in upper is still in question as I am guessing off of belt size. Any help in confirming is appreciated.

These guys do lots of V. From just the blog on their site I think they have done 20-30 of them maybe more. They suggested FIC1000 injectors. I have ID1000 in my supercharged TSX. I have heard ID is king. Not sure if I should suggest going with them. The new ID1050x look awesome. Would like to do this on a bit of a budget but don't want to risk reliability. This isn't planned work so all this to repair stuff is coming out of money I have put away for such unrelated car issues but I obviously don't want to empty the stash.

Here is my list of what I am doing for sure.

1. FIC1000 or ID1050X injectors
2. LPE Pump
3. JHR Performance Tank
4. Tune

Other possibles that might be worth while at same time.
1. 160 TStat
2 Overdrive pulley set
3. Reinforced Brick??? only if current is collapsed
4.

Already have
1. Airraid
2. Larger Heat Exchange
3. 2.4in pulley (I think but not 100% positive. Basing this off belt size.)
4. Port and Polish Throttle Body
5. Meisterschaft exhaust which is apparently more free flowing than my previous setup and has made my lean running of the car much more obvious.

I want to do things that are cost effective now to do at the same time as the definite work. Also anything that can increase power and doesn't cost an additional arm and a leg I would do at the same time since I am already going to need a retune. Headers and cams are out as I don't want to spend that kind of money. Max budget $3000. Trying to stay closer to $2000-2500. I know I am already at around $2000 for the 4 things I am definitely doing.

Majofo

I think ID1050x is overkill.. check the list:

V2 ---- MODS LIST ---- DYNO NUMBERS (UPDATED)

Majofo

The speed shop up here is no joke.