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Don't use a stiffer rear bar on the S2000. A NC miata front bar mounted to the rear of a S2000 is a popular mod to go faster. At the track, disconnecting the rear bar altogether works well for AP1's.
This is how I ran mine. Square 17x9 wheel setup, much stiffer front bar, no rear bar and slightly stiffer front springs than rear. It was pretty neutral and put power down really well. Lots of track people run a rear bar though compared to the autox guys who are about 50/50.
I also tried an NC front bar on the rear but it made it too loose with my spring setup. I know a few guys who welded extensions onto the end of the NC front bar to make it softer, and that worked nicely. You guys should see how thin the NC rear bar is, it's like my pinky
Last edited by TommySalami; Feb 17, 2016 at 08:32 PM.
I appreciate your input, although I'm going to install both bars, adjust stiffness settings, and see how I like it.
If I don't like the rear bar, I'll Craigslist it.
FYI - I'm running OEM suspension w/ a near square RS3v2 setup .. the car almost feels as though it could use some livening up in the rear.
If you've got something like 245/255s then your new setup is gonna make the car easier to get loose on power and while lifting mid-corner. Turn-in should be nicer too. Still driveable though. When I first got my car, I ran almost the exact same thing just with square 255s.
I started tracking my AP1 8 days after taking delivery lol. Then started modding from there. I bought 17" wheels and I used to have a 225 vs 255 stagger. Then a 225 vs. 265 stagger. At the time, I had KW V3's with the stock 513LB springs.
Then I went non-staggered tires/wheels. Then did a 255 vs 265 stagger. Then back to non-staggered. And changed to 12k/10k springs.
Now I'm on RE71R's (255 square on 17X9) and Öhlins that I haven't yet driven on. Can't wait. I had the foresight to leave myself a note on the dashboard that reads "CONTROL ARMS AND SHOCK BOLTS ARE LOOSE".
Nice. I'm running Ohlins DFV and 255 RE71Rs on 17x9s on my NC now, and the setup is amazing. I feel bad for the aluminum shocks because I've had to drive on the salty roads a couple times.
It must be hard putting a car like this away for winter, I can't even imagine. Longest time I went without driving my S was around 3 weeks when I went to Europe in 2014.
The Jeep looks like it's holding you over until then
Just did SoS TB and new NGK Platinum Iridium plugs on the car. Plugs needed to be changed badly and the TB was fun. Honda was nice enough to put in tamper-proof screws to hold on the TPS so I had to Dremel in an indent to use a screwdriver to remove.
Car seems better - I assume more due to the plugs than anything.
Hoping to do my 3.2" Pulley, AEM Wideband, and ID1000's in the next weekend or so.
Phew, Safelite is replacing my window free of charge!
Thing is, they aren't warrantying it for the initial crack. After pitching my driveway & improper installation theory, the technician said "Nope, something or someone definitely hit your window. A split does not look like this"
I was frustrated because the thought of spending $500 in windshields over the last 6 months is a bit ridiculous, but luckily he spotted a hairline crack right where the rearview mirror attaches to the window
shiet, I put safelite in mine...guess I should have fought and paid the $500000 out of pocket for OEM then!
My windshield is all abraded up from the years of track use and road trips. I wanna maybe get it replaced...but I am flaccid about the idea of someone scratching the paint on the B pillar's seal....even though I don't drive it in winter. I'd be doing a Honda windshield though.
