2013 Subaru BRZ Kimchi Edition
I concur!
03-22-2016, 10:58 AM
#2962
Senior Moderator
03-23-2016, 12:35 AM
#2963
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Hahahaha
Sam!!! It's okay! Just give me your honest feedback anytime!
And yes, I wanted to get that sunset F&F vibe for that last one to emphasize the message.
Sam!!! It's okay! Just give me your honest feedback anytime!
And yes, I wanted to get that sunset F&F vibe for that last one to emphasize the message.
03-23-2016, 12:35 AM
#2964
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
03-23-2016, 08:28 AM
#2966
Moderator
So....what's new with the BRZ?!?
03-23-2016, 08:57 AM
#2967
2024 Honda Civic Type R
Filtered yet?
Also, if you haven't, get a UV filter to put on first on your lens. It will protect your lens and prevent dust and scratches and fingerprints from getting on it. It's a cheap but great investment. And you can put the CPL filter on over the UV filter.
03-23-2016, 02:26 PM
#2968
Ex-OEM King
The CPL filter will also make the blue sky pop more and seem a bit darker and saturated. It will help the foreground stand out more, as well as help with the reflections on the windows.
Filtered yet?
Also, if you haven't, get a UV filter to put on first on your lens. It will protect your lens and prevent dust and scratches and fingerprints from getting on it. It's a cheap but great investment. And you can put the CPL filter on over the UV filter.
Filtered yet?
Also, if you haven't, get a UV filter to put on first on your lens. It will protect your lens and prevent dust and scratches and fingerprints from getting on it. It's a cheap but great investment. And you can put the CPL filter on over the UV filter.
I wouldn't stack the CPL on top of the UV, it can create some funny reflections in between the two filters. I'd use one or the other, not both and it doesn't take much time to swap them out.
Also, make sure to get a GOOD UV filter as there are tons of bad ones out there. There's nothing worse than putting a $20 UV filter in front of a $1000 lens.
03-23-2016, 11:30 PM
#2969
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
You can use a CPL filter or you can use a fixed or variable ND filter. CPL filter would be good for those sunny days where you just need stop down 1 or 2 stops. ND filters can be super dramatic in terms where you want to have those long exposure type of shots but keep in mind, some ND filters vignette more than others .
Just depends on what you want. If you plan to do regular shots like how you are doing it now. a CPL filter maybe the best for you. If you want to do 30 sec or more shots then i would use the ND filter to make it super dramatic.
Just depends on what you want. If you plan to do regular shots like how you are doing it now. a CPL filter maybe the best for you. If you want to do 30 sec or more shots then i would use the ND filter to make it super dramatic.
03-24-2016, 05:49 PM
#2971
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Funny thread! 
I might have to pick up those filters to play around. Might be doing a lot around noon in the future.
My lens is all under $150.... so I'll probably try out the lower end filters or something. haha
Uploaded a whole bunch of photos for this Civic Si this morning. I'll post more later! This Civic is pushing around +240 to the wheel NA! Very nice one.
IMG_3463 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
IMG_3492 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
IMG_3627 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
IMG_3543 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
03-24-2016, 07:10 PM
#2973
Ex-OEM King
Damn, you'd benefit greatly from a better lens... Try and snag a 24-105L used for ~$450 and thank me later. The market is flooded with them since they are kit lenses for higher end bodies so values are way down.
If you're getting these pics with a $150 lens, I can only imagine what you'd get with a nice one...
There are other techniques for shooting in harsh light but I'll wait till asked.
03-25-2016, 11:01 AM
#2975
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Whatttttt!? 
Oh you didn't know!? I bought everything used and refub back in December. Canon 60D for $320, 50 1.8 STM for about $80, 10-18 STM for $200. Most of the time I use 50mm since it's easier. haha
I would love to try the 24-105! Hope 4.0 is fast enough. I find myself shooting a lot around 2.8 or like super slow around 8.0. I do wish my Prime is 35mm though. Sometimes I can't get the interior shots I want with 50mm since it's so far.
And please tell me about other techniques for shooting in harsh light!!
srs?
Damn, you'd benefit greatly from a better lens... Try and snag a 24-105L used for ~$450 and thank me later. The market is flooded with them since they are kit lenses for higher end bodies so values are way down.
If you're getting these pics with a $150 lens, I can only imagine what you'd get with a nice one...
There are other techniques for shooting in harsh light but I'll wait till asked.
Damn, you'd benefit greatly from a better lens... Try and snag a 24-105L used for ~$450 and thank me later. The market is flooded with them since they are kit lenses for higher end bodies so values are way down.
If you're getting these pics with a $150 lens, I can only imagine what you'd get with a nice one...
There are other techniques for shooting in harsh light but I'll wait till asked.
I would love to try the 24-105! Hope 4.0 is fast enough. I find myself shooting a lot around 2.8 or like super slow around 8.0. I do wish my Prime is 35mm though. Sometimes I can't get the interior shots I want with 50mm since it's so far.
And please tell me about other techniques for shooting in harsh light!!
03-25-2016, 11:25 AM
#2976
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
03-25-2016, 11:49 AM
#2977
Ex-OEM King
Oh you didn't know!? I bought everything used and refub back in December. Canon 60D for $320, 50 1.8 STM for about $80, 10-18 STM for $200. Most of the time I use 50mm since it's easier. haha
I would love to try the 24-105! Hope 4.0 is fast enough. I find myself shooting a lot around 2.8 or like super slow around 8.0. I do wish my Prime is 35mm though. Sometimes I can't get the interior shots I want with 50mm since it's so far.
And please tell me about other techniques for shooting in harsh light!!
I would love to try the 24-105! Hope 4.0 is fast enough. I find myself shooting a lot around 2.8 or like super slow around 8.0. I do wish my Prime is 35mm though. Sometimes I can't get the interior shots I want with 50mm since it's so far.
And please tell me about other techniques for shooting in harsh light!!
F/4 is plenty fast for 90% of what I've seen you take, especially with IS. The only time it's not going to be good is low light and moving targets. For everything else, you can always use a tripod.
Techniques for harsh light:
- Shoot wide aperture, maintain that differentiation between subject and background.
- Do up close as much as possible.
- Be really aware of distracting elements in the scene, they stand out more with harsh light.
- Use a graduated neutral density filter, this helps to block out some of the unwanted light from the sky. This can also be accomplished with bracketing exposure and combining in post process.
- Use a CPL, helps to cut glare and boost contrast.
- Find shade if you can, even a little bit of shade covering only part of the image helps to add some depth to an image with harsh light. Balance it out in post.
- It's very easy to boost the blues in the sky with Lightroom, get it if you don't have it. Way better for photography than PS though PS does have its uses.
Any questions, feel free to ask.
03-25-2016, 12:14 PM
#2978
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
The 24-105 is a solid lens aaron. I agree with Sam it does the job for you since the time of day you like to shoot in. As for harsh light, although you can manage with filters and post production with it, sometimes you have to your work "work" around time to get the best light/images possible.
03-27-2016, 12:18 AM
#2979
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
10-18mm is really wide even on a crop, I'd sell that lens and get something else if you find that you don't use it much. The 50 1.8 is a solid lens and a great performer but it's not very wide, especially so on a crop body. If you can swing it with your business (tax deduction!), the 35L is one of the best lenses I've ever used, though rather expensive. Because you're on a crop body, and to save some money, the 24L is a fantastic performer that puts you at a ~38mm effective for less money than the 35L. Not as good but a decent compromise. Once you go L, you never go back.
F/4 is plenty fast for 90% of what I've seen you take, especially with IS. The only time it's not going to be good is low light and moving targets. For everything else, you can always use a tripod.
Techniques for harsh light:
- Shoot wide aperture, maintain that differentiation between subject and background.
- Do up close as much as possible.
- Be really aware of distracting elements in the scene, they stand out more with harsh light.
- Use a graduated neutral density filter, this helps to block out some of the unwanted light from the sky. This can also be accomplished with bracketing exposure and combining in post process.
- Use a CPL, helps to cut glare and boost contrast.
- Find shade if you can, even a little bit of shade covering only part of the image helps to add some depth to an image with harsh light. Balance it out in post.
- It's very easy to boost the blues in the sky with Lightroom, get it if you don't have it. Way better for photography than PS though PS does have its uses.
Any questions, feel free to ask.
F/4 is plenty fast for 90% of what I've seen you take, especially with IS. The only time it's not going to be good is low light and moving targets. For everything else, you can always use a tripod.
Techniques for harsh light:
- Shoot wide aperture, maintain that differentiation between subject and background.
- Do up close as much as possible.
- Be really aware of distracting elements in the scene, they stand out more with harsh light.
- Use a graduated neutral density filter, this helps to block out some of the unwanted light from the sky. This can also be accomplished with bracketing exposure and combining in post process.
- Use a CPL, helps to cut glare and boost contrast.
- Find shade if you can, even a little bit of shade covering only part of the image helps to add some depth to an image with harsh light. Balance it out in post.
- It's very easy to boost the blues in the sky with Lightroom, get it if you don't have it. Way better for photography than PS though PS does have its uses.
Any questions, feel free to ask.
Will follow up with some questions tomorrow!
The 24-105 is a solid lens aaron. I agree with Sam it does the job for you since the time of day you like to shoot in. As for harsh light, although you can manage with filters and post production with it, sometimes you have to your work "work" around time to get the best light/images possible.
03-27-2016, 12:20 AM
#2980
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Tried something a little different for this 2012 WRX that I shot yesterday. We got up there way too late, so it was very dark. Thank goodness I bought the tripod. So useful.
I didn't touch any clarity or high contrast on these! Applying the similar for other photos right now.
46 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
43 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
I didn't touch any clarity or high contrast on these! Applying the similar for other photos right now.
46 by JS + MS3, on Flickr43 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
03-27-2016, 09:52 AM
#2984
Ex-OEM King
Tried something a little different for this 2012 WRX that I shot yesterday. We got up there way too late, so it was very dark. Thank goodness I bought the tripod. So useful.
I didn't touch any clarity or high contrast on these! Applying the similar for other photos right now.
I didn't touch any clarity or high contrast on these! Applying the similar for other photos right now.
Pics look good! Have you tried going into HDR yet?
10-18 is awfully wide for a rolling shot no? I had the 10-22 for a couple years and was astounded at how wide it was. Almost too wide for me and I shoot landscapes.
03-29-2016, 02:18 AM
#2985
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Have never really got into HDR. Those look very processed, no?
I would love to buy a brand new STi hatchback version!!!!! I think Subaru is releasing the new ones in hatchback too!
The only time I use the 10-18 is when I try to get the entire interior from the backseat. And sometimes to get some dramatic looking interior panel shots. It's super wide, so it works well for those. Other than that, I rarely use it.
Tried some different editing for this shoot.
63 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
64 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
I would love to buy a brand new STi hatchback version!!!!! I think Subaru is releasing the new ones in hatchback too!
The only time I use the 10-18 is when I try to get the entire interior from the backseat. And sometimes to get some dramatic looking interior panel shots. It's super wide, so it works well for those. Other than that, I rarely use it.
Tried some different editing for this shoot.
63 by JS + MS3, on Flickr64 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
03-29-2016, 08:27 AM
#2987
Moderator
Nice work!
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
03-29-2016, 09:17 AM
#2989
Ex-OEM King
Have never really got into HDR. Those look very processed, no?
I would love to buy a brand new STi hatchback version!!!!! I think Subaru is releasing the new ones in hatchback too!
The only time I use the 10-18 is when I try to get the entire interior from the backseat. And sometimes to get some dramatic looking interior panel shots. It's super wide, so it works well for those. Other than that, I rarely use it.
Tried some different editing for this shoot.
I would love to buy a brand new STi hatchback version!!!!! I think Subaru is releasing the new ones in hatchback too!
The only time I use the 10-18 is when I try to get the entire interior from the backseat. And sometimes to get some dramatic looking interior panel shots. It's super wide, so it works well for those. Other than that, I rarely use it.
Tried some different editing for this shoot.
HDR doesn't have to be over processed at all but certainly can be. There are lots of examples that are pretty mild. Google just released their Nik line of software tools (formerly $500) for free. I'd recommend you download that as it has an HDR plug in. Also, do you use LR or PS?
I can see that. I guess 10mm on an APS-C is 16mm on full frame so it's not that wide after all.
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
03-29-2016, 02:01 PM
#2991
Ex-OEM King
Focal lengths are quoted in FF values. If you shoot an APS-C crop (if you shoot crop but don't know what kind, it's APS-C, there are very few pro level bodies that have APS-H though) then the multiplier is 1.6x so 10mm FF = 16mm APS-C. APS-H is 1.3x but again that's reserved for very few pro level bodies and I'm not sure it's even used anymore...
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
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JS + XES (03-30-2016)
03-30-2016, 01:47 AM
#2993
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Looks awesome!
HDR doesn't have to be over processed at all but certainly can be. There are lots of examples that are pretty mild. Google just released their Nik line of software tools (formerly $500) for free. I'd recommend you download that as it has an HDR plug in. Also, do you use LR or PS?
I can see that. I guess 10mm on an APS-C is 16mm on full frame so it's not that wide after all.
HDR doesn't have to be over processed at all but certainly can be. There are lots of examples that are pretty mild. Google just released their Nik line of software tools (formerly $500) for free. I'd recommend you download that as it has an HDR plug in. Also, do you use LR or PS?
I can see that. I guess 10mm on an APS-C is 16mm on full frame so it's not that wide after all.
I only use PS for my editing. Usually finish everything in RAW editor and stamp out the distracting objects in PS real quick.
Finished this set!
70 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
87 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
75 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
72 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
71 copy by JS + MS3, on Flickr
84 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
86 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
91 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
90 copy by JS + MS3, on Flickr
89 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
88 by JS + MS3, on Flickr
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00TL-P3.2 (03-30-2016)
03-30-2016, 08:31 AM
#2995
Moderator
Very nice, the dual spoiler setup looks a little weird, but I like it. Works somehow.
regamasters!
03-30-2016, 02:13 PM
#2997
Ex-OEM King
bro. you need lightroom. it will change your (photography) lyfe.
Nice pics.
Is that seriously what the FRS ships with as a radio?
Nice pics.
Is that seriously what the FRS ships with as a radio?
03-30-2016, 08:08 PM
#2998
Damn, if only you were closer to me. Or I could just ship you my parts!
Have you wrapped the door speaker grille panels on the BRZ?
Have you wrapped the door speaker grille panels on the BRZ?
04-04-2016, 03:17 PM
#2999
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Thanks!
Yeah, the car altogether works well, if that wing set up is on a stock car, 
He has a original AE86 too. So you know his style is derived from it.
Yeah I need Lightroom!!!! For sure.
Yeah, that's the base one from the first model year. It's so much nicer now.
That actually was the biggest turnoff for me when I was cross shopping FRS and BRZ. haha
Working on the custom padded knee pads for the door speaker section and the opposite side in the center. Bought a roll of high density foam for it and cut it up already!
He has a original AE86 too. So you know his style is derived from it.
Yeah, that's the base one from the first model year. It's so much nicer now.
That actually was the biggest turnoff for me when I was cross shopping FRS and BRZ. haha
Working on the custom padded knee pads for the door speaker section and the opposite side in the center. Bought a roll of high density foam for it and cut it up already!
04-04-2016, 03:18 PM
#3000
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
