When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Brand-new Tesla Model 3 owner April G (April Gilmore) picked up her 2022 Model 3 Performance in Tampa, Florida, in December. It was making a weird and annoying scraping sound, so she reached out to Tesla for help. As it turns out, the electric car was missing a brake pad.
When April contacted Tesla, she let them know that the Model 3 was making a scraping sound that seemed to be coming from the driver's side rear wheel. Unfortunately, the Tesla Service Center didn't have any inspection appointments available until about three weeks later. However, the following day, Tesla reached out to April and asked her to send a video so the team could listen to the sound.
April complied and recorded a video, which she sent to the service center. To her surprise, the Tesla service rep told her many people watched the video and determined that the sound was normal and that there was potentially no issue with the Model 3's brakes. Of course, April pressed the service center to move her appointment forward. Tesla told her to have the car towed if she still had concerns.
Gilmore followed through, having the Model 3 towed to a local "independent Tesla shop." Not surprisingly, upon removing the wheel, the mechanic learned that a brake pad was missing. Not only did the Tesla need a brake pad, but also the rotor and caliper had to be replaced. Gilmore's Tesla Service Center watched a video from the independent shop and asked her to bring the car in right away.
Tesla gave April Uber credits since it didn't have loaners available. The repair has been delayed a number of times thanks to parts that aren't readily available. The original repair date was scheduled for December 31, 2021, though it was pushed to January 7, 2022, then January 14, and finally January 19.
We'll be keeping our eyes on the story to find out how it all turns out. In the meantime, Tesla covered a full month of Gilmore's car payment. Regardless of how Tesla is trying to help, the whole situation is unacceptable. We honestly don't understand how anyone watching the video could think the brakes were "normal."
Tesla Model 3 Long Range outlasts Mercedes Benz EQS in cold weather range test in Norway
The EQS was supposed to be the range king, right.... Not so fast,..
***************************************
Despite having a more range on paper, the Mercedes Benz EQS 580 was no match for the Tesla Model 3 Long Range in a recent cold weather range test in Norway.
The winter test, conducted by the Norwegian Automobile Federation (NAF) the automotive publication Motor, put a total of 31 electric vehicles (EVs) on the road to see which one could drive the furthest.
The test was also conducted to see which EVs saw the largest deviation from their stated range when driven in cold temperatures.
With temperatures ranging between 0°C to -10°C (14°F to 32°F), the Model 3 Long Range topped the list of longest distance travelled at 521km (324 miles).
The Model 3 was also among the leaders in terms of deviation, seeing only a 15.5% drop from the WLTP rated range of 614km.
The EQS 580 has a WLTP rated range of 645km (400 miles), but was only able to travel 513km (318 miles), more than 20% less than when in optimal conditions.
Also among the group of cars tested was the Model Y Long Range, and it too impressed with a fourth place finish with 451km, just 11.05% less than expected.
Motor noted the Model Ys results were particularly impressive because the last 16km (10 miles) of its drive was in colder temperatures and on more of an incline than the BYD Tang, which topped the results with just 11.05% deviation.
*****************************
Good thing they didn't test it against the Model S....LOL
That car went 324 miles in temps between 14 and 32? I call total bullshit unless they were driving with the heat off and conserving every ounce of battery for driving. My car doesn't get anywhere close to its advertised range even in normal conditions let alone when it's that cold.
That car went 324 miles in temps between 14 and 32? I call total bullshit unless they were driving with the heat off and conserving every ounce of battery for driving. My car doesn't get anywhere close to its advertised range even in normal conditions let alone when it's that cold.
Those European electrons are different than US ones.
Or Sam has the big 20 in wheels, and they had the 18in Aero wheels, they kept the vehicles in a parking garage instead of outside so the battery was at a reasonable 10-15C when they started (I posted a video that explains how the Tesla heat pump uses the battery to store heat for later use), and they probably didn't drive at 70mph+ in the snow.
I bet when it's cold out Sam never preconditions his car battery and then complains when regen doesn't work because his battery is too cold
He actually does precondition, as mentioned multiple times through this and other threads. Other owners do the same as well. The problem is - when it's so cold (think closer to 0*F and in some cases below that) preconditioning really doesn't work. Hence the firmware update.
^ Except Sam has specifically pointed out that he 'starts' the car 20-30 minutes early, while it's plugged in in his garage
Not sure if that's directed at me, but yes - that's preconditioning.
And preconditioning with it still plugged in allows it to "warm up" off of power from the plug, not the battery. So in theory his mileage shouldn't take such a large hit. But...it does.
Or Sam has the big 20 in wheels, and they had the 18in Aero wheels, they kept the vehicles in a parking garage instead of outside so the battery was at a reasonable 10-15C when they started (I posted a video that explains how the Tesla heat pump uses the battery to store heat for later use), and they probably didn't drive at 70mph+ in the snow.
I bet when it's cold out Sam never preconditions his car battery and then complains when regen doesn't work because his battery is too cold
1.) I have 18 lightweight wheels with winter tires right now. The wheels are lighter than aero wheels.
2.) My car is always parked in my garage where the temp is ~10F-20F higher than outside and there's obviously no wind. This is common around here and doing otherwise is a flawed use case that's not realistic of real life.
3.) This is fair but if the speed limit is 70mph like it is in many places around here that's how fast you drive. Driving at 55mph in a 70mph zone to artificially get more range for a clickbait article seems flawed and not at all realistic of real life. If you lived in anywhere that got snow you'd know that driving 70mph on a snow covered road is stupid and dangerous. Regardless, most (90%+) of the driving I do is city driving at speeds of 55mph or less.
4.) I almost always precondition my car before driving it for about 20mins or so. I know it benefits the battery and range but I mostly do it so I (and my daughter) don't freeze my ass off when getting in. There are times when I have to go and go now so the battery doesn't get heated but those situations don't happen often and are just a fact of life.
Man, you keep stepping on those rakes, I'm surprised your face isn't all black and blue.
Maybe if you had a Tesla instead of a scooter you'd be more versed in real life use and results rather than what random clickbait tells you.
Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Not sure if that's directed at me, but yes - that's preconditioning.
And preconditioning with it still plugged in allows it to "warm up" off of power from the plug, not the battery. So in theory his mileage shouldn't take such a large hit. But...it does.
Not exactly true. The car has no way to "warm up" off of wall power, it will always pull from the battery to do really anything because the wall is AC power and it runs on DC power. The internal AC2DC converter can't handle the pull of the warmup process so you'll always lose some battery doing it. What I do is start the warm up process and then hit "start charging" at the same time so while the car is pulling battery power to heat up, it's charging at the same time. Because I only have a 20A plug that pushes ~4kW, it can't 100% keep up but it does a pretty good job. I set the max charge setting to ~88% and even after 20-30mins of heating up the battery is at ~86-87% when I get in to go so, for all intents and purposes, it's warming up off the wall power and not eating range.
Wonder what else scooter boy has to educate me about my own car and it is to live with it.
In normal circumstances standby and preconditioning is pulled from the wall (or pulled from the main battery and replenished at the same time). It may not seem that way to you at the moment because it's so damn cold though lol
However, this may also depend on the type of wall charger and speed you are using, so...
In normal circumstances standby and preconditioning is pulled from the wall (or pulled from the main battery and replenished at the same time). It may not seem that way to you at the moment because it's so damn cold though lol
However, this may also depend on the type of wall charger and speed you are using, so...
It doesn't. The app will show you when power is moving from the wall to your car and when you hit start climate it doesn't show anything being pulled from the wall. This might be because I have a charge schedule where it doesn't start charging until 11pm though, maybe it's different if you have a charge it whenever setting enabled. I don't have time of day billing for my electricity but I do this to just take the load off of my house when other stuff is running during the day. I don't know if it makes any difference or not but it makes me warm and fuzzy inside.
I'm just using the mobile charger with a 6-20 plug on it for a 240V 20A outlet. I don't need any more than this so it's all good. I've never come close to not being able to replenish what I used during the day when charging overnight.
It actually doesn't make a huge difference in conditioning if it's stupid cold out vs just normal cold. Maybe 1%? The big difference when it's stupid cold out is that it really sucks balls when you start driving.
I'll see when mine gets here then. Many on the forum have said it pulls from the wall during preconditioning, but again, that could be based on charging speeds.
I broke down and got the wall connector. The price difference between it and a 14-50 outlet + mobile connector really isn't that large in the grand scheme of things. I'm running the wiring and installing the 60A breaker this week. Now to wait for the car
It can't pull from the wall because AC vs DC and the draw of the system to warm up outpaces the converter. It's probably a function of charge speed like you said. I can screen shot it tomorrow and send it to you if you want to see.
The mobile connector comes with the car so the plug is like $35...how is that a wash to $500? I didn't spend extra on the wall connector because I wouldn't get shit back when I sold the car and I knew I probably would be getting a different make next. I've also never used the mobile connector outside of my house either.
Nema 14-50s aren't meant for repeated unplugging, so to delay failure in the outlet, I would've ordered another mobile wall charger (and for convenience so I didn't have to constantly pack it up whenever we took trips). That's $275.
The breaker was basically the same price. The wiring (6awg copper) was the same price. The Nema 14-50 was ~$80 (Hubbell, the HD and Lowes outlets are crap). The box and faceplate was about $20-25. And the Nema 14-50 adapter is $45. That's $420 not including breaker or wiring. The wall connector was $550. an outlet, box and faceplate aren't needed. Gen 3 wall chargers sell for $400+ on the forums, so it's not a huge difference (if at all) in the grand scheme of things. Plus it looks cool and offers faster charging than the wall charger, which makes it worth it for me lol
If/when I get a different EV, it's not difficult to swap out the outlet/wall charger and the breaker (if needed).
I have never unplugged the charger from my wall in the 8ish months I've had the car. Superchargers have been my go to for the one trip I've taken so no charger needed there and I home charge for everything else. So for me the math was $35 for a plug and ~$75 for the wire/breaker or $500 for the connector and $250 for the wire and breaker.
1.) I have 18 lightweight wheels with winter tires right now. The wheels are lighter than aero wheels.
2.) My car is always parked in my garage where the temp is ~10F-20F higher than outside and there's obviously no wind. This is common around here and doing otherwise is a flawed use case that's not realistic of real life.
3.) This is fair but if the speed limit is 70mph like it is in many places around here that's how fast you drive. Driving at 55mph in a 70mph zone to artificially get more range for a clickbait article seems flawed and not at all realistic of real life. If you lived in anywhere that got snow you'd know that driving 70mph on a snow covered road is stupid and dangerous. Regardless, most (90%+) of the driving I do is city driving at speeds of 55mph or less.
4.) I almost always precondition my car before driving it for about 20mins or so. I know it benefits the battery and range but I mostly do it so I (and my daughter) don't freeze my ass off when getting in. There are times when I have to go and go now so the battery doesn't get heated but those situations don't happen often and are just a fact of life.
Man, you keep stepping on those rakes, I'm surprised your face isn't all black and blue.
Maybe if you had a Tesla instead of a scooter you'd be more versed in real life use and results rather than what random clickbait tells you.
Looks like stunna ghosted out after getting hit in the face with that rake.
Not sure how far you have to run your wiring but I bought 16' of romex 4/3 copper at $4.06/ft and the breaker was $12.52.
Another positive for the wall connector is NEC code changed in 2017 and again in 2020, requiring any EV outlet be on a ground fault breaker (which are $$$). That's not a requirement for the wall connector. But everyone's scenario and use case is different.
EDIT - this obviously depends on your states adoption of NEC and whether you got it permitted/inspected at the time of install.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 02-01-2022 at 09:30 AM.
I had to run 25'-30' so it would have cost me a lot more. It's all good, I'm not at all upset with what I have now. Plus I don't have an EV outlet, I just have a random 240V outlet in my garage.
I wasn't clear in my comment. 2017 stated EV (section 625.54), but 2020 made it universal:
210.8(A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt through 250-volt receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (A)(11) and supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.(1) Bathrooms
(2) Garages and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use
(3) Outdoors
Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be permitted to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as applicable.
(4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level (5) Basements
Exception to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.
Informational Note: See 760.41(B) and 760.121(B) for power supply requirements for fire alarm systems.
Receptacles installed under the exception to 210.8(A)(5) shall not be considered as meeting the requirements of 210.52(G).
(6) Kitchens — where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces
(7) Sinks — where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink
(8) Boathouses
(9) Bathtubs or shower stalls — where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the bathtub or shower stall
(10) Laundry areas
Exception to (1) through (3), (5) through (8), and (10): Listed locking support and mounting receptacles utilized in combination with compatible attachment fittings installed for the purpose of serving a ceiling luminaire or ceiling fan shall not be required to be ground-fault circuit-interrupter protected. If a general-purpose convenience receptacle is integral to the ceiling luminaire or ceiling fan, GFCI protection shall be provided.
(11) Indoor damp and wet locations
Prior to this, it was only 125v single phase 15 & 20amp circuits in garages that required this. Minnesota adopted the 2020 code in late 2020, so if you pulled a permit for that connection you're good. Otherwise it's a simple breaker swap.
Looks like Tesla is de-contenting the 3 again - this time with headlights. So far it looks like any 3 built on or after April 25th doesn't have the matrix headlights. People on the forums, FB groups and Reddit that are waiting on their deliveries are PISSED since they bought a car with matrix headlights but it's being delivered without.
Looks like Tesla is de-contenting the 3 again - this time with headlights. So far it looks like any 3 built on or after April 25th doesn't have the matrix headlights. People on the forums, FB groups and Reddit that are waiting on their deliveries are PISSED since they bought a car with matrix headlights but it's being delivered without.
Ouch...
Not like it matters a ton seeing as though they haven't enabled that feature anyway.
01-18-2022, 08:59 PM
