Well I've been doing my homework searching through Acurazine and even calling a few friends that are deep into the Acura/Honda world to try and understand my transmission problem, but I'm hitting a brick wall with all the answers/feedback.

I have a 2004 Acura TL 6MT with 139,500 miles on it. I am the second owner and to my understanding the clutch was replaced by Honda at 90,000 miles. The first owner is a neighbor of mine who babied it as a daily just to work and back, Most of its history is know, plus he gave me a folder of everything Honda ever did on it… and then some.

Problem:
I was on the highway just cruising in 5th gear, I shifted into 6th gear for a good minute, had it up to about 3000 RPMs when my RPM gauge jumped up as if I was reving my motor in Neutral. I tripped balls! I didn’t see it happening because I was changing my music. I just heard my motor Reving as if I was at a Red Light. I dropped it into Neutral and pulled off at the first exit. Once I got off the freeway I tried to driving it through all the gears but I could only push 2,000 RPMs before the Reving would begin again on each gear, to me it felt like it was “slipping”. I couldn’t go more than 40mph on the streets, I got on the freeway and the Reving would happen right after I would pass 2,000 RPMs… Down shifting was the same deal. I would have to downshift below 2,000 just to “catch”. Also I could only slowly increase my speed. If I accelerated to fast it would “slip” as if it would be past 2,000 RPMs. I got home, parked it, and its just been sitting ever since.

After reading on here and talking to a buddy of mine that works at Honda, one possibility could be that my clutch is worn out already. But I’m confused as to why it would go out after 50,000 miles when the OEM Luk got up to 90,000 miles. The Honda dealer replaced the old clutch with a New OEM Luk clutch. I have read that some people didn’t need to change their OEM clutch out until 140,000 miles. Could it be that the self adjusting pressure plate might be bad only? I have also read about changing out the Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder, replacing the transmission fluid with the GM Tranny Fluids, Changing Clutch and Flywheel etc. If I should change my clutch what should I go with Luk, Exedy, SACHS or Valeo.

My local mechanic, a good friend of mine told me he would do a clutch job for me for $450 if I bring the parts. But he told me if I bring the parts to bring a new flywheel and that I should also do the rear main seal and a few other small things while his under my car... your opinions?

This is a list of what I have found to help me out price wise. One of these is the key to my fix… or all of them. I don’t know yet.
-GM Synchromesh Friction Modified GM Part # 12377916
~$17.67 (A quart)
-Acura Clutch Master Cylinder 46920-S7A-A04 (I dont kow the diff.)
~$52.93
-Acura Clutch Master Cylinder 46920-S7A-A03 (I dont know the diff.)
~$59.00
-SACHS Part # K7035201
~$273.79
-EXEDY Part # HCK1007
~$276.79
-VALEO Part # 52412401
~$325.89
- LUK Part # 08047
~ $160.26
-LuK DMF062 Flywheel
~$211.23

What do you guys think it might be and why? What am I missing if I do a clutch job? Any other fluids?

 

Anyone?

 

I really would like any help please.

 

I don't own a 6MT but found a thread with some confirmed part #'s for OEM kit...hope it can help.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/6mt-oem-clutch-flywheel-question-848906/

Master cylinder thread

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/diy-2004-2008-3g-tl-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement-894268/

 

Completely sounds like a worn clutch especially since it is slipping on every gear

 

I have come across both threads in my research. I even bookmarked the DIY on the Master Cylinder for future use, great write up!!! I ordered the OEM LuK Flywheel DMF062 and OEM LuK Clutch Part# 08-047, monday can't come any faster!

 

Taking it to the shop tomorrow. Really would have liked more help...

 

It's a slipping clutch, absolutely no doubt. How badly you slipped it will determine if you can get away without replacing the flywheel. The master and slave cylinders have nothing to do with slippage nor does the trans fluid. Removing the restrictor from the slave might help your new clutch to last longer. LUK is the way to go with a new clutch. I'm not sure there's anything else to say.

 

How long a clutch lasts depends on how you start off and the mix of driving you do (city/freeway). Everyone is different in the way they start off from a dead stop. Some may over rev the motor and/or hold the clutch pedal a fraction longer (slipping the clutch) than it needs to resulting more clutch wear. Also if you drive in stop and go traffic you will have more shift changes resulting in more wear. I had Civic 5 speed that I bought brand new and I had over 200k miles on the original clutch. I was pretty easy on my clutch and most of my commute to work was 90% freeway.

 

woww take it to a good shop and see what the say the problem is..

 

what year is your acura tl?

 

I_hate_cars, or anyone else that may know--any difference in clamping force specs and performance characteristics between the Exedy 'hck1007' organic OEM replacement disc, vs. the LUK repset, when paired with a new replacement LUK DMF062 oem flywheel? Thanks,