I'll give the breakdown from start to my point now and hope someone has some suggestions.

So I was inside the door replacing the actuator.
Ended up busting the clip to the door lock cylinder so the rod is kinda bouncing around in there.
I went to test the door would open and it did, but the drive door lock on top of the panel wasn't moving.
I pulled the panel off and went to look at the lock. Fiddled with it and put the panel back on and shut the door. Lock rod went up and Down fine, but then the door wouldn't open, from the inside or the outside handles.

So I take the car to the dealership and they can't get it off without possibly damaging the door panel.

I then try a AAA repair center. They end up getting it off without messing up the door panel. And quote me $500 bucks to replace the door latch, saying a spring caused the original malfunction where the door wouldn't open from either side.

So I have them toss the panel in the back and that's where I'm at now. And I use the cable to open from the inside. And the outside works fine.
I've got the clip for the door lock rod coming in today so I can at least lock the car now. But would really like to get the panel back on without having to worry about the door not opening again.

Just wanted to see what you guys guys think as I have no issue using the cable, so not sure if that may need to be replaced, or maybe it is the latch that needs replaced. I don't see if the latch would need to be replaced if it works fine now. Don't think it would open differently with the panel off now as opposed to putting the panel back on

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced

 

So if you put the door panel back on with everything hooked up you can't open from inside but you can from outside?

 

Worst case scenario. I have a full door lock actuator and lock mechanism for the driver door. Came out of an 05 Base Model TL. That could be an option to buy it off me, but lets try to diagnose this first!

 

Yeah that was my problem when I had the door panel on last. Door panel was on and everything was hooked up, then I shut the door and I couldn't get it open from the interior handle or the exterior.

As of now the door panel is off. Outside door handle opens the door just fine now. And when I pull the cable from the inside, it also opens the door

 

The latch is fine. Most likely the floppy lock cyclinder linkage got jam up/wedged on something and causing the door to stay locked. Therefore the door handles not working correctly.

Manual operation of the door latch is not affected by the inner door panel whether it is on or off. However, I would leave it off since you're receiving the replacement clip today.

You can always test the door latch/functionality by tripping the lock mechanism with a Philips srew driver while the door is open. Just know that you may need to physically assist the latch to open with the screw driver while pulling on the door hand if the door latch is not of the spring loaded tpye.

 

Sounds like the linkage to the door handle is broken

 

I was thinking of anything was goofed up it would be the cable. Wondering if this green clip being broken would cause the issue. Thing is I have the clip broken on the passenger side as well but no issue with door opening.

%5BURL=http://s284.photobucket.com/user/hondaeg9/media/10A92B35-4F66-4BF3-9E71-81B59A9F5130.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/hondaeg9/10A92B35-4F66-4BF3-9E71-81B59A9F5130.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D

fingers crossed it's just the door lock rod bouncing around. Just picked it up and I'll try it out a little later

 

ok idk why pics aren't working

 

Would be nice to see pics, but if the green clip on the cable is broken, that is definitely it. I've replaced two lock actuators, one on an accord, one on the TL, both that are the same part. What happens is the plastic gets brittle over the years, and it ends up breaking when you remove it from the door panel. You can buy a new cable for 12 bucks and replace that, or for a fix (I'm not sure how long it'll last, but it's gotten through the last 4-5 months for me so far) you can use duct tape.

The way it works is the green clip is held in place like a sheath, so when you pull the handle the inside of the cable gets pulled. The green part is supposed to be stationary wherein there should be a sort of lower area that "clips" into the area of the handle. However, if the clip area on the green part is broken, what you can do is put the whole of the green clip "behind" the holder, and then use duct tape to keep it in place. There is enough slack in the cable for it to be able to do this, as you're only shifting it roughly a few cm over. The goal here really is to keep the green piece behind the handle clip.

Hope that wasn't too confusing. If I ever get around to replacing the cable I'll take pictures next time of what I'm talking about.

 

No I get what you're saying. I figured that would make sense over the latch. Didn't know for sure though because, as I said, the passenger side clip is broken and that latch opens and closes just fine

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...B59A9F5130.jpg

 

Well there's a link. Can't get the image to post for some reason

 

 

That took way too long lol

 

that clip is vital to the door lock working properly! If it is broken, the cable will move freely and won't be able to apply force to the door lock mechanism!

 

Totally makes sense....Would that cable also cause the outside handle to not work though? Or do you think that was due to the door lock rod floating around in there and jamming something up?

 

You're over thinking this. Just fix whats broken first and go from there.

Replace the inner door handle release cables (pictured), both doors. Thats a serious safety issue. Someone can get trap in the car if there were an emergency situation and the front doors cannot be open from the inside.

Replace the lock cylinder clip.

​​​​​It's pointless to speculate what is causing what not to work when you have two known defective parts.

 

That broken green clip is what my initial thought was. As stated that is vital to the interior handle functioning properly. Get that fixed and then we can diagnose the exterior handle issue once you get it buttoned up. Instead of buying a new one or trying the duct tape trick, my passenger side on my old car was zip tied. I noticed it when I started to part it out. Never had an issue with it that way, but obviously a new one is better than rigging it somehow. Its cheap enough to have it fixed the right way and not worry about a quick fix failing in an emergency.

 

Don't really think it's POINTLESS to think about the problem before fixing. Seeing as last time the door panel was on and the door was shut, it was stuck shut and I had to go pay someone to get it open. Rather not do that again

 

You're misinterpreting... We're saying maybe you should fix actual broken parts rather than leave them as is claiming "it works on the other side"

 

I get that. But I don't see how it hurts to ask questions

 

So replaced the lock cylinder clip, and the dealership had both latch cables in stock so I got both of those. Replaced the driver side and tested everything out the best I could with the door open. Then removed all the white clips from the door panel, just in case, hooked everything back up.
Everything tested fine so I took the risk and shut the door. Everything operated fine. So I'd say it was a success. Used some sealant on the plastic and fastened the panel on the door.

My key fob works now, which was the whole point when I originally replaced the door lock actuator. lol
thanks to everyone who jumped in to help. I appreciate the input from you all!

 

Glad it is fixed!