So I just got my Luk clutch kit in yesterday, going to take it in to my friends shop tomorrow to get the spring reset as it is not preloaded anymore. This is for a 05 TL with 167k on this clutch. Still works great no issues with it. Just replacing it as mileage is so high.

I have done numerous of trans/clutch replacement in the past. But never a V6 on Honda/Acura, did a auto trans swap on a 00 Impala 3.6L. I had to remove the entire drivers side suspension compoents, pop out the axle on passenger side, then held the motor with the cherry picker and unbolted the mounts, then unbolted all 4 bolts that holds the subframe off, let it down all way by disconnecting the steering shaft off the rack/pinion. lowered the motor down, unbolted the trans, out it came, reversed the step. 8 hours to do it. This without a lift, just floor mechanic here.

Would this be a similar step with the TL? with the Impala I did not need to disconnect anything else like hoses, wires, or even the exhaust. Did have to disconnect the throttle linkages though, but the TL is electronic so that's different. probably will have to disconnect some wires for the TL though.

No please don't tell me to take it to the stealership or any shop. all of my cars since 1995 has never seen a shop for any kind of repairs, all done by me.

 

Never did the job, so not certain as to the similarity to the TSX, but here's a
DIY from the TSX forum:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-performance-parts-modifications-126/diy-manual-transmission-clutch-replacement-removal-833245/

Also, looks as if post 16 didn't drop the subframe.

 

I looked at that link, and post #16, thanks! Time to get dirty! I'll try to and remember to take some pictures and post them here.

 

Got the clutch spring reset, it was a easy task with a mechanical press, didn't have access to hydraulic press. Placed clutch on 3 support points on the clutch frame not the pressure plate. Put a round aluminum on the fingers, pulled the lever down, held it in place, pushed the tab in, held it there, released the handle. Done!

Got the clutch out, did not have to completely remove the transmission, just pulled it out and let it sit on the subframe. Had to take all 4 bolts off the sub frame and the bolt for the steering column spindle. Took me 8 hours, I took my time on this as there were a few bolts that were rusted or corroded and would not cooperate with me.

The 4 bolts that holds the subframe must have been put on by superman! Needed a long breaker bar as my 1/2 inch impact gun would not take it off. Held a lot of my body weight on the bar, pumping it until it finally croaked, then used the impact gun to take it off.

I was surprised that the clutch is a Luk. The friction disc still had PLENTY of material on it... The guy I bought it from was the 2nd owner, he purchased it with 35k miles from the dealer, it was a lease return. I asked him when I bought it if he had the clutch replaced and he said no. Car currently has 167k, bought it with 147k for 8,000 bucks.

Reassembly starts tomorrow, should take me less than 8 hours this time, I'm guessing 4ish hours.

One thing to add, the wheel sensor, its a 8mm bolt (10mm head) do not, I repeat, do not bother trying to take it off, you will snap the head off GUARANTEED! Just unplug the electrical connector under the fuse box, then squeeze the white plug on the frame, push it out instead of trying to get the sensor off. Good thing the sensor is fused to the hub. Hopefully it stays on!

 

Any updates? I'm about to do this same project in a few weeks. Any things like the wheel sensor plug that would save me time/money are great to know! Thanks

 

So far the clutch is working great, no issues with it. However I am having some noise clunk/popping kind thing going on somewhere around the suspension area ever since I finished the job. Some bushing or mount has never been loosened since it left the factory. So now it's not tightened and squeezed the same exact spot anymore has caused it to create some weird noises that I cannot pinpoint it ever since. It's only low speed like under 35 around the city going over bumps and cracks.

 

I know it's a long shot, but can you explain that clutch reset procedure again? You press on the fingers and reset a tab??

 

Did you change the flywheel too? LUK tech support recommends doing this when changing out the clutch set due to the way dual-mass flywheels wear. I learned from experience on this!
.

 

Clutch + flywheel both have around 2k on them so practically new. My clutch doesn't need replacement. I'm removing the whole trans+clutch assembly to replace a rear main seal the bozos who did the work previously didn't replace. Never paying anybody to work on my car again.